Adirondack Rock - New Routes

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NEW ROUTES

...and other cliff notes

Last updated: Feb 1, 2012

The following new routes (536) and notes (62) have been compiled for 142 areas. This supplements the information in the book. To add new routes, boulder problems, or notes, email us (Jim or Jeremy) with your information.

If you're looking for new bouldering problems, click here.

Be sure to check out the routes at Silver Lake.

Note: We are saving some content for the next edition, including first ascent data, cliff histories, maps, topos, and cliff photos. However, when reporting new routes, please include this information.

Eagle Falls

There are many new routes interspersed among the existing routes, requiring new descriptions of the route locations.

The start of Random Rope should read, "15' right of El Supremo, just right of an arête."

The start of The Big Donger should read, "At a 10'-high open book, 10' right of Random Rope."

The start of Good Housekeeping should read, "At a triple-trunked birch tree 8' up and 60' right of the giant boulder that sits beneath the huge roofs of Eagle Buttress, 10' left of a dirty open book, and 20' left of Dobsonfly."

The start of Seventeen should read, "Upstream from Eagle Buttress is a large pool beneath overhanging rock (the Class Five Buttress). This route is located 150' left of the pool at a narrowing in the river with a small waterfall and 275' right of the giant boulder at Eagle Buttress. Start below a left-facing open book that begins 20' up and whose right wall has pink rock. Just right of (and below) the open book are two triangular ceilings, and there is a small birch 10' up."

The start of Rolling Stone should read, "10' left of Seventeen, at a crack 6' right of a 4'-wide ceiling 10' up and 15' right of Prey Tell. Another marker 20' to the left is a large arête that begins 20' up, below which are multi-tiered roofs."

The start of LM should read, "50' right of the triple-trunked birch of Good Housekeeping and 10' right of The Eagle Has Landed, at a handcrack in a left-facing open book capped by a triangular ceiling 12' up."

The start of Horizontal Fridge should read, "35' left of Puppies in a Sack and 130' right of the triple-trunked birch of Good Housekeeping is an enormous open-book corner whose right wall has large roofs. The first roof, 15' up, is formed by a horizontal, refrigerator-sized orange block split in the middle. The route begins at a shallow left-facing corner below the right end of the orange block, 10' left of Shiver Me Timbers".

There is no fixed protection on Papa Don't Preach.

In times of high water or when it's too cold to swim/wade, you can put in a boat at the dam launch site, cross to the cliff side, and follow a trail to the top of the cliff.

There is a fixed anchor on top of Seventeen.

Camping: [In addition to the camping mentioned on page 581] The utility company that operates the hydro facilities has a very nice summer campground on Soft Maple Flow about 3 miles downriver from the parking. It has car camping, a canoe boat launch, and a nice beach. It's an easy flatwater paddle from here to Eagle Canyon, and you can take out on the cliff-side of the river. Another option, Beaver Camp, has rooms, cabins, campsites, and meals (315.376.2640, Beaver Camp).

The Tower of Babel 5.4 TR 50'

[Between routes #10 and #11, page 583]

Great climb for beginners and kids, as even the shortest ones can stand on top of the flat tower and feel victorious.

Start: At the base of a free-standing tower at the left end of the overhanging red wall and 25' right of Adsit Arête.

P1 5.4 TR: Climb to the top of the tower, then step left onto the face and finish up Adsit Arête on good incut buckets to the top. 50'

The Cross 5.8 G 60'

[Between routes #10 and #11, page 583]

Due to the overhanging nature of the wall, this route stays fairly dry in the rain except for the last couple moves. Originally a toprope problem, but not super popular as there is a potential for a nasty pendulum.

Start: In the right-facing corner at the base of The Tower of Babel.

P1 5.8 G: Up the corner to near its top, then traverse right using a prominent horizontal crack on an overhanging orange wall for 30'. At its end, move up over a bulge to a tree. Lower from here, or continue to the top. 60'

El Supremo 5.11c G 90'

[Between routes #13 and #14, page 583]

This scenic route climbs the most prominent feature at Eagle Falls—the buttress with huge roofs, Eagle Buttress, ending at a beautiful bare-rock summit. A crimpy crux; considerably harder if you're short.

Start: On the right side of the open rocky area below the roofs of Eagle Buttress and 15' right of the giant boulder, at a right-leaning crack with pods, below the right side of an orange fin of rock that forms a chimney 20' up.

P1 5.11c G: Up the short crack (5.8), then through a brief blocky section with good incut buckets. Work up the orange fin to its top, then make a long move to a hidden edge on the overhanging orange face above the roofs. Crimp up the face (crux) to a fantastic incut ledge, then up easier jugs (5.5) to a fixed anchor at the top. 90'

Gear: Draws plus cams 2 ea 0.5".

Dobsonfly 5.7 G 70'

[Between routes #16 and #17, page 584]

Start: 10' left of Stihl Water and 10' right of the open book mentioned in the start of Good Housekeeping, below a cleaned arête with a ledge 10' up. Start on either side of the arête.

P1 5.7 G: Gain the ledge, then follow the arête (crux) to a large perched block at the top. Over this to another perched block with a fixed anchor on the left. 70'

Gear: To 2", including small cams.

Stihl Water 5.9+ G 80'

[Between routes #16 and #17, page 584]

Excellent crack and face climbing with a juggy exposed arête thrown in for good measure.

Start: 15' left The Eagle Has Landed at an arête capped by a large square roof 20' up. There is a large flat boulder 10' to the right.

P1 5.9+ G: Up the right side of the arête to the roof, then break the roof on its left side via a good crack. Once positioned above the roof, traverse right and climb the large juggy arête to a good stance. Move left onto the face, then up (crux) to a fingercrack and a corner to its left (V1), which are followed to a fixed anchor at the top. 80'

V1 5.7 G: Step right to the arête (the finish of The Eagle Has Landed) and follow it to that route's fixed anchor.

Gear: Standard rack to 2".

The Eagle Has Landed 5.10d G 90'

[Between routes #16 and #17, page 584]

This gem climbs a beautiful, clean, and unlikely orange wall, finishing on an arête with good views of the river.

Start: 10' left of LM below two bottomless left-facing corners capped by roofs 15' up. The trail at the base of the cliff run up against the wall here, and there is a large flat boulder 4' back from the cliff.

P1 5.10d G: (V1) Up the leftmost corner to the roof, then make an intricate traverse right around the second corner (crux) to better holds and up to a prominent 3" horizontal. Work up the face on good edges and flakes to a ceiling, then traverse left following an excellent horizontal crack (no feet) to the arête. Swing around the arête, then climb it to a fixed anchor at the top. 90'

V1 5.8 G: The initial crux can be avoided: start on LM, then traverse left onto the face above the horizontal. This reduces the overall difficulty to 5.10b.

Gear: Draws plus 1 ea 3" cam, 1 ea ¾" cam.

Ravenous 5.11a G 90'

[Between routes #17 and #18, page 584]

Incredible climbing up a puzzling corner finishing through an exposed series of roofs.

Start: At the toe of the buttress left of Lloyd's of Lowville is a square-roofed alcove below a beautiful right-facing corner that begins 15' up. Begin on the right side of the alcove.

P1 5.11a G: Climb to a good incut ledge below the corner, then up the corner (crux) to its top. Move left onto a face and thankful stance, then work left under a dramatic series of roofs using hidden sidepulls to an exposed perch on the lip of the large roof. Easy climbing up cracks in a headwall leads to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: Draws plus a cams to 3/4".

Lloyd's of Lowville 5.10a G 90'

[Between routes #17 and #18, page 584]

Clean, solid rock with exposed positions on an arête. Fantastic; one of the best routes here, although the opening moves are considerably more difficult if you're short. Named for a diner in Lowville.

Start: On the left wall of a large open book, 10' left of Horizontal Fridge, and just uphill and right of some ceilings below a clean orange arête.

P1 5.10a G: A tricky move off the ground leads to a good stance on the face. Work up and left past an undercling pocket (3" cam) to the arête (crux). Up the arête to a good stance, then move right and up a fingercrack. Swing right on jugs to a shallow left-facing corner that is followed to a fixed anchor on a tree. 90'

Gear: Draws, a 3" cam, and a few 1/2" pieces for the top.

Shiver Me Timbers 5.8 G 90'

[Between routes #18 and #19, page 584]

Perhaps the most obvious line at the cliff—a crack that gradually widens from hands to 10". The roof at mid-height is overcome using the tree; otherwise, it would be much more difficult.

Start: 15' right of Horizontal Fridge below a crack that runs the full height of the cliff.

P1 5.8 G: Up the crack to the roof, then shimmy up the birch tree over the roof. Continue up the outside of the squeeze chimney to the top. 90'

Gear: Surprisingly, gear to 4", with an emphasis on small TCUs.

Lichen or Not 5.11c G 90'

Devious face climbing followed by high-quality, steep, finger- and hand-cracks. The route was significantly easier until the key hold broke down low; the route still goes, but now starts in the crack to the left, and the second clip is a hard.

Start: Same as Shiver Me Timbers.

P1 5.11c G: Up Shiver Me Timbers for 5', then traverse right on the delicate face to a series of insecure moves up three left-leaning ramp features to gain a tips crack. Up the tips crack to parallel overhanging cracks, which are followed up a corner to a fixed anchor at the top. 90'

Gear: Normal rack to 2.0", with an emphasis on small to finger-sized cams.

Promiscuous Girl 5.12a G 90'

[Between routes #18 and #19, page 584]

Sustained, technical arête climbing on immaculate rock. It has been done four (!) different ways.

Start: 5' left of Puppies in a Sack below an arête that forms a right-facing corner.

P1 5.12a G: Starting on the right side of the arête, mantel onto an obvious hold at head height, then climb the overhanging arête (V1) to a good stance at two-thirds height. The climbing eases now—move right, then back up to the arête, finish on good sidepulls on the left to reach a fixed anchor on the right side of the arête. 90'

Gear: Quickdraws

The Tasp 5.9 G 80'

[Between routes #19 and #20, page 584]

Nice face climbing with a high, exposed roof with a heel hook—a one-move wonder.

Start: 10' right of the large right-facing chimney of Puppies in a Sack below a crack filled with jammed flakes. This is just left of an overhanging orange wall.

P1 5.9 G: Up the flake-filled groove for 10', then traverse right on a narrow ledge to a shallow left-facing corner. Step right out of the corner and climb a pleasantly juggy face to a roof. Out the roof (crux), then up a face to a fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Draws plus a 2" cam and #6 nut.

Prey Tell 5.10a G 100'

[Between routes #19 and #20, page 584]

An excellent combination of a thin face, an arête, and a steep intricate face.

Start: 40' right of The Tasp and 16' left of Seventeen, at a small arête that leads to the right side of a large triangular roof 20' up. There is a wet, mossy open book corner 1' right of the start.

P1 5.10a G: Up the arête (taking care to avoid the wet, mossy corner) to better holds and a good stance on the right side of the large triangular roof 20' up. Go up the face (crux), then step left and ascend a juggy staircase of holds on the large arête above the triangular roof. Begin up a steep face, make long reaches between good holds, trend toward the left then finish up and right at a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws plus gear to 2".

Analysis Paralysis 5.8 PG 100'

[Replaces route #22, page 584]

Marginal protection, ample vegetation.

Start: Same as Welcome to the Machine.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb to the horizontal, then up the steep face past two sidepull pockets to better holds beneath a fractured crack system 20' up. Move left onto a fern ledge, then up an arête to a 5' triangular roof on the left. Traverse left beneath the roof, then up to a ledge in the main open book corner to the top. 100'

Welcome to the Machine 5.9 PG 90'

[Between routes #22 and #23, page 584. Perhaps shares part of route #22?]

Good climbing and exposure on the upper section. The bottom section is slightly runout, but the high crux is well-protected. Despite massive cleaning, this route still has a section of questionable rock through an easy section. Named for a Pink Floyd song.

Start: Walk upstream to a wall facing upstream and facing the large pool (the pool beneath the Class Five Buttress). Begin 40' right of Seventeen on a flat boulder, below a right-facing scoop, 6' downhill and left of where a horizontal crack meets the dirt.

P1 5.9 PG: Climb to the horizontal, then up the steep face past two sidepull pockets to better holds beneath a fractured crack system 20' up (there is a fern ledge to the left). Work up the crack system to where the wall becomes steeper (crux), then up to a small ceiling. Move left around the ceiling into a short left-facing corner and follow this to a fixed anchor on a birch tree. 90'

Class Five 5.11c G 80'

[Between routes #22 and #23, page 584]

Incredibly exposed, intricate, and puzzling climbing through a roof above a Class V rapid in the river (even in low water, the noise here is substantial). Up to the roof is spectacular 5.9.

Start: At the right end of the cliff is a dominate buttress, horizontally fractured with multi-tiered roofs overlooking a large pool in the river. Begin at a flat ledge at the height of land beneath the roofs. This is down, left, and around the corner from Stacked.

P1 5.11c G: (V1) Walk left on a ledge to short right-facing corner. A crimp move gains the corner. Work up buckets in the overhanging tiers, then layback up to a good stance on the face beneath the huge 7'-deep roof, below and left of an acute left-facing corner in the roof. Chimney up the acute corner, then make a huge move out right (crux) to an excellent horizontal crack at the lip of the roof. Over the roof and onto the face with parallel cracks. Step left to a fixed anchor. 70'

V1 5.6 G: Begin 10' downhill and left below two shallow left-facing corners in black rock. Up the crack in the left-hand corner to a blocky ledge of crumbly black rock beneath the short right-facing corner of the normal route.

Gear: Draws. At the top, a 2" cam protects the second for the move over the roof. V1 requires a 0.75" cam.

Middle Settlement Lake

Deciphering the Dirtyness 5.8+ G 60'

[Between routes #2 and #3, page 574]

Cool moves; would be 3 stars if cleaned.

Start: In a recessed alcove with a very prominent right-facing corner, about 20 feet right of the prominent roof crack.

P1 5.8+ G: Climb the crack line in the right-facing corner: first over a bulge (sometimes wet) to a ledge, then up to the roof and out left (crux), then up a steep, tricky face to lower angle rock. Belay in shrubbery. 60'

Flatrock Mountain

Directions: Park on NY 28, 1 mile south of the parking area described for Middle Settlement [page 574]. The parking area is on what looks like the old NY 28.

Description: Flatrock Mountain is primarily a bouldering area south of Old Forge on NY 28. The boulders are on the south side of NY 28 (same as the parking area), and are scattered over the northwest side of Flatrock Mountain. There are also some very short cliffbands that run parallel to the ridge which have potential for toprope climbs and highball problems. This area has significant potential, as there are countless boulders scattered through the woods.

The first cliff band now holds some roped climbs in the Corners Area 18T 494690 4834966, which has a faint path that leads to this area from the split-in-half house-sized boulder by the road. This path continues to the top of the first tier of cliff bands where the second and shorter tier can be reached. This section now holds three routes, The Cobbler, Flatrock, and Indirecto. Access the top of the cliff band by walking right and scrambling up a low angle corner.

The Cobbler 5.8 G 30'

Start: 5' left of Flatrock.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the crack (hands to fist to cups) to trees.

Gear: To 4".

Flatrock 5.10c TR 35'

Start directly below the overhanging buttress and climb this straight on to the lower angle rock and steps at the top.

Indirecto 5.10a TR 35'

Begin 7' right of Flatrock and climb the face angling left to join Flatrock at the top.

Tongue Mountain

Anaconda is now a lead route, and one of the best in the park.

French Kiss is now a lead route at 5.9+ G, 90', ***.

Gear: 2 ea 1-2".

Baywatch 5.7 G 70'

[Right of route #6, page 445]

Provides easy access to the Project Wall Ledge.

Start: 10' right of Tartar Control, beneath a short offwidth crack that leads to a conifer on a sloping ledge.

P1 5.7 G: Up the offwidth and across the sloping ledge to the bottom of a steep right-facing corner. Up the corner past two pesky trees to the right end of a large ledge. 70'

Gear: To 4".

Rescue Breathing 5.10b G 80'

[Between routes #7 and #8, page 445]

Secure face climbing with a flared fingercrack finish.

Start: Same as Tongue Lashing.

P1 5.10b G: (V1) Move out of the pod at the bottom and into a left-rising crack with a dead tree. Go past the dead tree to a second pod. Hand traverse left along a horizontal to a piton, then face climb a vertical wall to a left-rising crack. Follow the crack to a horizontal dike and step left to a right-rising, flared fingercrack. Up the fingercrack then traverse left to a fixed anchor shared with Taste Buds. 80'

V1 5.10d R: Start 15' to the left at a chest-sized block and beneath an A-framed overhang 10' up. A small cam on the left protects a hard move into the A-frame. Go over the A-frame to a horizontal crack and follow it to the piton on the right.

Crotalusly Challenged 5.9 G 90'

[Right of route #8, page 445]

Crotalus horridus is the species of timber rattlesnake.

Start: Right end of Project Wall Ledge, 10' right of the pine tree with a fixed anchor.

P1 5.9 G: Up a detached block–flake to a left-rising crack. Follow the crack to a ceiling (crux) that is above a raven's ledge. Continue up the crack to a small tree then traverse left along ledge to a vertical crack. Up the brilliant vertical crack to the top. 90'

Dark Venomous Reality 5.10b G 100'

[Between routes #14 and #15, page 446]

Climbs the right margin of the Lakeview Wall. Above the crux, don't pass up the gear opportunities if you want to keep the protection G.

Start: 15' right of Dark Venomous Dreams below a prominent roof 15' up.

P1 5.10b G: Up to the roof then exit left to a crack. Climb the crack, then diagonal across a face and over an overlap (crux). Diagonal up and right past discontinuous cracks to a stance below an overlap. Follow a bulging crack left of the overlap to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: To 1" with an emphasis on small cams and medium nuts.

Snake Free 5.7+ PG 60'

[Between routes #15 and #16, page 446]

This is the sister route to Forked Tongue, but a bit more feisty.

Start: Just left of the start of Gridlock, at a small tree above the access gully.

P1 5.7+ PG: Protect the bottom moves (crux) then move right along a ledge to a vertical crack. Follow the crack as it curves to the left, then work up and right across beautiful black rock to a short vertical crack in the headwall. Join Gridlock: scramble left up easy slabs to a fixed anchor shared with Forked Tongue. 60'

Gear: To 2".

Areticus Maximus 5.10a G 90'

A low crux and a tricky topout. Dries quickly.

Start: At a ledge beneath the 3rd class chimney used to access the upper Lakeview Wall. The ledge begins 8' above the ground.

P1 5.10a G: Go up the chimney a few feet to a narrow ledge on the right. Start up a discontinuous crack that is left of a long arête. Make a crux move into the base of the crack where it is finger-sized. Go out right to the arête which can be climbed directly or on the steep face to the right. Make a long reach to the base of a right-facing flake that is on the left side of the arête. Climb the flake then go back to the arête and climb it to a broken overhang. Traverse left and up to a ledge with a pine tree (the fixed anchor on the ledge is for Colossus). Work up and left to a crack that is left of a higher arête. Follow the crack past an awkward mantel to a fixed anchor at the top of the wall. 90'

Gear: To 1.5"

Colossus of Tongue 5.10a G 80'

The opening dihedral is a prominent landmark. The alternate finish in the overhanging, left-facing ceiling is 5.10c.

Start: At the base of the approach to the 3rd class chimney used to access the upper Lakeview Wall.

P1 5.10a G: Scramble 8' onto a ledge at the base of a tall, deep, left-facing dihedral. Climb up a vertical fingercrack on the right wall of the dihedral to a sloping ledge. Step left into the dihedral and climb to a higher ledge, then traverse right to another left-facing corner. Start up the corner and then exit out right onto a sheer face with a 3'-tall alcove beneath a ceiling. Pull over the ceiling on good holds then run it out to a ledge beneath a wall with blocky rock. Move up and left to a horizontal dike. Follow the dike left (loose rock) and reach up to a sloping ledge which is climbed to a fixed anchor on the right. 80'

Kodiak 5.12a G 40'

Start: 75' right of Bearclaw and 110' left of the right end of the cliff, beneath an orange, left-facing corner.

P1 5.12a G: Up the corner (harder for short climbers) to a rest on a sloping ledge. Above the ledge is a sheer, overhanging wall with several water-worn rails. The reach past the last rail, to a horizontal crack, is the crux (harder for tall climbers). Finish with a left-facing flake and a fixed anchor shared with Teddy Ruxpin. 40'

Gear: Draws.

Teddy Ruxpin 5.9 G 40'

Start: 100' left of the right end of the cliff, at a left-facing corner that starts 10' up.

P1 5.9 G: Up easy rock is climbed to the corner, then up the corner to a ledge on the right. Go up a vertical crack and step left to a fixed anchor shared with Kodiak. 40'

Gear: Draws plus a 1"-2" cam.

Stewart's Ledge

It should be noted that the cliff has old hardware and poorly-configured fixed anchors on most of the routes.

The third bolt on Lithium is sketchy and needs replacement.

Dryer Weather 5.6 G 40'

[Right of route #18, page 440]

Provides an easy way to the top of the cliff.

Start: At the chimney right of Pine Tree Crack.

P1 5.6 G: Up easy terrain to the overhang with nice moves through double crack above. 40'

Indi's Arête 5.9 G 45'

Harder if short.

Start: Same as Dryer Weather. Scramble right across the gully to a boulder move with a bolt. Go up to a ledge then step left to the edge of the fin and follow it to a fixed anchor at the top. 45'

Variation to Revolver [Route #5, page 437].

V1 5.8 G: Provides a nice 5.8 lead to get to the anchors for the harder routes on this wall. After the first bolt, step left to the crack system, up this to a ledge, then step right to rejoin Revolver at the flared crack.

Variation to The Curley Shuffle [Route #3, page 437].

V1 Booby Trap 5.7 G: Continue up the initial crack past a bulge (crux) to a small tree, then up easy terrain to the top.

Buck Mountain

It should be mentioned that numerous routes have fixed protection next to protectable cracks and should not serve as an example for placing fixed protection in the Adirondack Park.

Ice Cave Mountain

Day of a Thousand Disasters 5.6+ G 35'

[Left of route #1, page 572]

Start: 50' uphill and left of Team America, below a clean, left-leaning fingercrack that starts above a blocky ledge 5' up.

P1 5.6+ G: Climb the blocks and crack to the top. 35'

Olympic Acres: Upper Slab (aka Bear Den)

This cliff should be renamed Bear Den, as it sits on Bear Den Mountain. There are several trails to a lookout at the top of Bear Den; however, to reach the base, follow the directions given in the book. There is a good herd path to the cliff now.

The construction projects on Whiteface have ended, and now there's an official DEC trailhead at the Kids Kampus (Easy Acres and Bear Den). So, park as described in the book, and look for the new DEC trailhead sign.

Bronze has been cleaned and an anchor installed at the top, shared with Silver. Bronze is 5.9+, and, with the addition of a bolt, Silver is 5.10d G. Both routes are high quality.

Berry Good 5.10a G (5.7 R) 290'

[Left of route #2, page 343]

An outstanding second pitch that climbs a naturally clean, black water streak. P1 is good, but has a long runout that can be avoided by climbing P1 of Bear Necessities.

Start: Same as Bear Necessities.

P1 5.9 G (5.7 R): Mantel onto a ledge, then work up and left to a fern ledge. From the ledge, move up to the right-rising "J" crack and climb it to its top (crux) to a series of good flakes and ledges. Continue straight up the slab (runout) to a bolt, then step left to a tree ledge. 100'

P2 5.10a G : Move up to the top of a flake, then step left onto the face. Work up and left (crux) to the black water streak, then straight up wonderful knobs to a great belay station on a sloped ledge with a fixed anchor. 110'

P3 5.6 G (5.1 R): Straight up the unprotected slab to the broken crack finish of Bear Necessities. 80'

Gear: Sparse rack to 2" plus many quickdraws.

Descent: Rappel Bear Necessities with a single 60m rope.

Bear Necessities 5.10a G (5.2 R) 300'

[Left of route #2, page 343]

An excellent face climb on knobs and edges that makes its way straight up a deceptively high slab with terrific views of the Wilmington valley. Similar to Freudian Slip, but longer.

Start: 30' uphill and left of the depression of Yard Sale, below right-rising slashes in a steep slab.

P1 5.9 G: Mantel onto a ledge, the climb a steep wall using good incut jugs to a right-rising seam (gear). From the top of the seam, climb straight up featured rock to a fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.10a G: Step right and work straight up the face (crux) to a fixed anchor on top of large flakes. 100'

P3 5.9- G: Step left on flakes, then friction straight up the face to a low-angle area beneath a large left-facing corner. Angle up and left for 60' (unprotected 5.2 friction), then climb a broken crack to a sloped ledge with a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws plus cams and nuts to 1.5".

Descent: The route can be rappelled (barely) with a single 60m rope.

Gold 5.10a G 100'

[Route #4, page 343]

This route has been cleaned and is indeed superb. It's well protected with some fixed protection on the upper slab, and there's a fixed anchor for lowering—a single 60m rope just makes it.

Hurricane Crag

My Generation: New consensus is that the pitches go at 5.10c, 5.10a, 5.10b.

Why Did I Fall for That 5.8 G 170'

[Left of route #1, page 267]

The first pitch is recommended (and much better than it looks) and the second pitch is simply awful; it is possible to rappel after P1. Named for another song by The Who from the It's Hard album.

Start: 150' uphill and left from the large right-facing corner of PSOC is a large left-facing corner with orange rock on its outside face. The top of the corner (about 100' up) forms a free-standing tower. Begin 10' left of the corner below a prominent right-facing flake.

P1 5.7 G : Up some stacked blocks into the right-facing flake. Stem up the flake to a ledge with two large very unstable perched blocks. Traverse right and belay at a comfortable tree ledge. 90'

P2 5.8 G: Traverse left (staying well above the scary perched blocks) to a 4" crack and follow this straight up to a large tree on a grassy ledge. 80'

Descent: Walk left and rappel into a gully with a single rope.

Squeeze Box 5.8 G 90'

[Left of route #1, page 267]

A high-quality pitch, but often wet. Named for yet another song by The Who, and for the sweet stem box.

Start: Below the large left-facing corner described in the start of Why Did I Fall for That.

P1 5.8 G: Bypass a brief chossy band on the left, then enter the corner and climb the beautiful stem box to a ledge. Up a short finger crack that widens to tight hands to another ledge. 90'

Variation to Hooligans [Route #8, page 270].

V1 5.9- PG: Start up P2 of Hooligans, but rather than move right onto the face, continue up left into a discontinuous, flared fingercrack. When the crack disappears, make a few tricky face moves (crux) to gain the ledge. Small gear needed.

Lake Lila

Variation to The Island Marriage [Route #2, page 587].

V1 5.6 G: Begin as for Pretty in Pink, climb past the bolt, then slightly left to the base of the crack.

There is a fixed anchor at the top of the face, shared for the routes Pretty in Pink, Honeymoon in Yosemite, and The Island Marriage. One can lower with a 60m rope.

Pretty in Pink 5.9 G (5.1 R) 100'

[Between routes #1 and #2, page 587]

Climbs the beautiful, clean, pink, pocketed face between the upper cracks of Island Marriage and Honeymoon in Yosemite. A one-move-wonder.

Start: 5' left of Honeymoon in Yosemite below a tan streak with a bolt 12' up.

P1 5.9 G (5.1 R): Up the face to a bolt, then runout straight up (crossing The Island Marriage) past a shallow open book to a large left-facing flake (gear). Continue up to the clean pocketed face past a saucer-sized divot to its top. Runout to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Nuts and cams to 0.5".

Damn Your Eyes 5.10c G 120'

[Right of route #3, page 587]

Climbs the face between the cracks Honeymoon in Yosemite and Hart Pump, featuring amazingly clean, pocketed rock, and two distinct, well-protected cruxes.

Start: 15' uphill and left of Hart Pump, at a seam with a good finger-sized slot 7' up, and a bolt 15' up.

P1 5.10c G: Boulder up the seam (crux) to a good jug on a sloped shelf, then step right to a sharp right-facing corner. Layback up to a ledge, then straight up to a pink, pocketed face. Up the face (5.9+) to a stance, then traverse right to a beautiful fingercrack that is followed to the top. 120'

V1 5.3 G: To avoid the crux (and make the overall difficulty 5.9+), begin 15' uphill and left. Follow a right-rising sloping holds to the second bolt of the main route.

Gear: Nuts and cams to 0.5".

Descent: A 60m rope does not reach here, so walk 15' left and rappel from trees.

Hart Pump 5.7 G 120'

Good, sustained, and continuous finger- and hand-crack climbing.

Start: At the left end of the cliff, below a handcrack that begins in the ground and shoots up out of view.

P1 5.7 G: Up the handcrack to a ledge, then follow the crack as it angles right to the top. 120'

Descent: Walk (climber's) left and rappel from trees.

Do Me a Solid 5.10a G 110'

Excellent climbing in a remote and scenic location. This route alone is worth the hike/paddle. The rock is extremely compact on this face, but immaculately clean and littered with hidden incuts. Other lines have been toproped on this face.

Start: Uphill and right from the center (or low point) of the cliff is a beautiful clean face bordered on the left by a broken right-facing corner that runs the height of the cliff, and on the right by a prominent right-leaning grass-filled crack. Begin in the center of the face.

P1 5.10a G: Easy climbing leads to the first bolt at 25'. Pull through a steep section at mid-height, then work up and right to a steep headwall. Up through the headwall on a hidden flake and good edges to a fixed anchor. 110'

Gear: Draws.

Descent: Carefully lower with a 60m rope, which just makes it with some down scrambling.

Owls Head Lookout

Owl Tail 5.8- G 75'

[Way left of route #1, page 381]

This route is located on the ridge that runs northeast from Owls Head Lookout.

Start: When approaching Owls Head Lookout from Route 9N, just before the hiking trail swings to the southwest, bushwhack due east 15 min diagonally uphill to the ridge to find a distinct block of rock 18T 607320 4894356. Begin on the northwest side of the block facing toward Knob Lock Mountain, at a flaring moss-filled groove with a small birch tree 12' up.

P1 5.8- G: An insecure start in the groove leads to easy climbing up a network of cracks. Continue up a very aesthetic vertical crack and finish straight up easier (but questionable) rock to the top. 75'

Humble Pie Wall

Long pants are recommended, as the approach is getting overgrown by stinging nettles. Yuck!

Smoking Jacket gets 2 stars.

Tarsal Grinder 5.10c G 70'

[Between routes #3 and #4, page 155]

Often wet, and a bit on the dirty side.

Start: At the birch tree at the base of I Don't Need No Doctor. You have to climb P1 of Desi's Misery to access the start.

P1 5.10c G: Step right and climb the low-angle face up and right to a prow. Up the prow (crux) to a fixed anchor below a ceiling. 70'

Shanty Cliff

The route Basti [page 516] has incorrect first ascent information. It should read, "FA 2002: Neal Knitel, Neal Lamphear".

Fixed protection was added to Hooverville [page 515] just under the fin of rock at the top of the route, reducing a potentially dangerous runout. The route, while difficult for short people, is perhaps a grade easier for tall people.

Skid Row 5.11a G 90'

[Between routes #25 and #26, page 515]

Start: Left of Gunky Route, behind a large boulder below an orange slab with a bolt.

P1 5.11a G: Up slab (bolt), then move right across a left-facing corner (bolt) to a small slab below main roof. Move up to a jug (gear in left-slanting cracks above the lip), pull the overhang, then up moderate steep face (5.8) to a fixed anchor at the top of the cliff. 90'

Gear: To 2".

Shanty 101 5.8 G 35'

[Left of route 34, page 516]

Start: 15' left of Bidonville at a slab with a high bolt, and directly below a pointed prow.

P1 5.8 G: Stick-clip the first bolt, then climb directly up a slab below the prow. Up over the pointed prow, then continue up the face to a fixed anchor. 35'

Gear: Above the prow, the route is 5.7 with trad protection.

Shaky Flake 5.7 G 50'

[Right of route 33, page 516]

Start: 40' right of right of Mean Low Blues and 5' left of two birch trees.

P1 5.7 G: Climb right trending cracks above birch trees to large ledge 30' up (5.4, optional belay). Climb up left-trending flake. When possible to go right, and up small, left-facing crack to top. 50'

Climber's Yodel 5.7 G LENGTH

6 bolts. These three climbs are above and left of the Shanty Sports Arena.

Grips of Wrath 5.7 G LENGTH

Straight over a roof, 3 bolts.

Railroad Dickie 5.10 G LENGTH

4 bolts.

King Wall

The King and I 5.9+ G (5.5 R) 215'

[Probably should be listed between routes #12 and #13, page 168]

Located above Wall Ruler and right of Kaiser Friedrich is a large, open, off-vertical face with naturally clean, pocketed rock, completely hidden from the cliff base. The wall is bordered on its right side by a perched house-sized boulder. This was the first new route at the King Wall in over 10 years.

Start: Begin on the good ledge at the top of Wall Ruler. This is accessed by climbing Wall Ruler, or (more easily) the first two pitches of Prince (5.7), then the P1 traverse pitch of Kaiser Friedrich (5.8).

P1 5.5 R: Go up left to a short 5.5 face trending back right on positive edges but no protection. Get gear in a roof overlap and walk right on a clean flat sidewalk with little pro to step-down (4th class, no protection) and obvious fixed anchor out right. 75'

P2 5.9+ G: Climb straight up the face through an unlikely-looking black headwall to the top. 140'

Gear: 9 quickdraws plus cams through 2".

Descent: Two 60m double-rope rappels return to the ground near Another Wack and Dangle Job.

The Keep 5.11b G 140'

[Probably should be listed between routes #12 and #13, page 168]

Immaculate pocketed rock, sustained climbing, and several cruxes characterize this off-vertical face. Absolutely superb.

Start: At the fixed anchor at the end of P1 of The King and I.

P1 5.11b G: Step left from the anchor, mantel a ledge, then walk left 15' to a pocketed black wall with a bolt. Work straight up the amazing pocketed wall (5.9) to a sloping ledge below a shallow white open book. Boulder into the open book (first crux) and climb to its top, then up the super thin face past a key nipple (second crux) to another sloping stance below a scooped headwall. Friction up the scoop to a difficult mantel (third crux), surmount an overlap, then run out to the trees and fixed anchor shared with The King and I. 140'

Gear: Draws, RPs, and 1 ea 1" cam.

Another Wack and Dangle Job [Route 13, page 169] has gone free at 5.12a.

Spider's Web

There is a new fixed anchor at the top of Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley / Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood, replacing the tat on Mr. Rogers'.

There is a new fixed anchor near the top of the cliff below lichen-covered summit blocks shared between Monkey See, Monkey Do and Drop, Fly, or Die. A 70m rope required to lower off.

There is a new fixed anchor near the top of the cliff below lichen-covered summit blocks shared between Romano's Route and White Knight. A 70m rope required to lower off.

There is a new fixed anchor at the top of the cliff for P2 of On the Loose. Two ropes are required to rappel to the ground.

The route Slim Pickins appears to have been climbed by Henry Barber around the same time as the other routes (1977).

Variation to Zabba [Route #13, page 218]. This is the first known lead of the direct start.

V1 5.13b G: This is the direct start.

Wheelin' N' Dealin' 5.13c R 100'

Climbs the beautiful seam bisecting the Normal Route; the hardest all-gear-protected route in the park. The first ascent required 3-1/2 months of work and close to 20 big falls, including a "cartwheel whipper" for which the route is named.

Start: 15' right of Drop, Fly, or Die below tiered overhangs.

P1 5.13c R: Pull the initial roof with some burly campus-like moves to a nice rest out right. Step back left into the seam, place small gear, then punch to a horizontal and good rest. Climb to a strenuous stance (improbable offset nut and green-yellow hybrid alien in the same pod). Gun up through an extremely insecure crux (tiny feet) to reach a jug (two tiny RPs). Follow easier but runout ground to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Extremely specific and includes three hybrid aliens and several micro RPs, some good and some questionable. Toproping prior to a lead is advisable due to the specific nature of the gear.

Ku Klux Who? 5.10d G 30'

A variation finish to White Knight. Apparently, this has been climbed countless times through the years, but has recently been made more accessible with a fixed anchor at the top.

P1 5.10d G: From the ledge at the top of White Knight, instead of traversing right to the fixed anchor of On The Loose, continue up the same crack system—rattly fingers to thin hands with multiple "finger buckets" along the way (much like the lower half of the route). 30'

Descent: Lower with a 70m rope.

Bike Path Cliff

There is a very small cliff along the Lake George—Glens Falls Bicycle Path, perhaps 20' high. The area has poor landings, but a toprope can be arranged. Routes up to 5.11 have been climbed.

Henderson Cliff

The approach is reportedly full of blowdown from Hurricane Irene, but still passable.

The route Top Knot is reportedly missing bolt hangers.

Old Guys Having Fun 5.9 PG 120'

[Left of route #1, page 350]

Start: At a crack 8' left of Topknot, just right of the arête.

P1 5.9 PG: Climb crack to its top, then face climb (staying 8' left of Topknot) to a blocky ramp (left of Topknot's anchor). Traverse left above big flake to steep right-diagonaling fingercrack (crux), then easily left around corner to brushy, blocky crest that leads to the woods. 120'

Gear: To 2".

Descent: Two raps with a single rope using the anchor on Topknot.

Gull Pond

Big In Munchkin Land 5.7 G 25'

Start: This route is located on the first cliff you come to as you skirt the lake from the west.

P1 5.7 G: Go straight up a shallow corner system, then (V1) head right and go up the edge of the cliff to a fixed anchor at the top. 25'

V1 5.11 TR: Going straight up is much more difficult.

Up In Smoke 5.9 G 60'

[Between routes #2 and #3, page 473] A well-protected corner with good jugs and wild stemming.

Start: On the left edge of the cliff, below and 35' left of Scales.

P1 5.9 G: Go up a corner to a roof (crux). Wild stems lead past the roof on the right, then continue up the corner to a fixed anchor at the top. 60'

Toss Me My Nuts 5.11a PG 160'

[This route was listed as a "project" on page 474, and is now a lead route]

Start: 20' right of the start of Get Reborn is an arête with a steep wall to its right. Begin 12' right of the arête, at a good handhold at head height.

P1 5.11a PG: Make a boulder move to a horizontal crack, traverse left (crux, #3 nut critical), then up and step around the arête. Up the arête past a piton and 2 bolts (5.10b) to a fixed anchor. 60'

P2 5.8- G: Move up and left to a wide crack in an overhang; up this, then scramble up easier rock to the top (same as Get Reborn). 100'

Austin City Limits 5.12a G 55'

Formerly a toprope problem known as Flaws of Physics.

Start: 10' right of the arête of Toss Me My Nuts, at an overhanging, left-facing corner.

P1 5.12a G: Make a hard boulder problem to start (V4, harder if you're tall), then up 20' of laybacking. Follow the technical, reachy dihedral system to a fixed anchor (shared with Toss Me My Nuts). 55'

Gear: A few small to medium cams or medium nuts.

Unnamed11 Project

This open project climbs the obvious line to the right of Austin City Limits. Begin with a steep crack boulder problem out of a cave (crux, ~5.12). Some care will be needed not to block useful jams with gear and there is a section with only fair gear and groundfall potential if the belayer isn't on the ball. Then climb a thin crack with good gear to an 12" overhang (5.11a). Make a big move past the overhang to good holds, then up a face to a heartbreaker crux before the fixed anchor.

Catamount Mountain

Three Blind Mice 5.5 G 130'

[The location of this route in relation to South Summit Route is unconfirmed.]

Start: Uphill and right of South Summit Route, at a steep, moist, right-facing corner.

P1 5.5 G: Climb the corner for 6' (or the unprotected slab to the left), step left onto a slab, then up a groove with a shallow left-facing corner on its right side (crux) to a stance. Trend right towards a left-facing corner-chimney. Up the corner, then up an excessively lichen-covered face, emerging onto a rolling slab that takes you to the top of the technical climbing. 130'

Descent: From the top of the technical climbing, scramble and cedar pull up and right another 100' to reach the hiking trail.

Lake Pleasant Quarry

The Lake Pleasant Quarry [page 568] is now an excellent toproping destination with an open, flat base, toprope anchors, easy access (5 min, flat), and a good range of climbs (mostly between 5.7 and 5.8). The route Bullseye, mentioned on page 568 of the guidebook, is the 5th route from the right. The top of the cliff is accessed by walking right, and ropes can be arranged by carefully reaching over the edge and threading them through any of the many chain anchors. The cliff is 125' wide and between 20' and 45' high. The climbing is a mix of smooth crimpy face climbing, horizontal blocks and cracks, and small roofs, resulting from blasted rock. Many of the climbs have toprope anchors, but even so, several are good for leading.

Looking at the cliff from the open meadow in front, there are 12 sets of anchors. The leftmost four anchors are for the first four routes Barrel of Monkeys, Sarge, Buzz, and To Infinity and Beyond! The anchors on these routes are difficult to access from the top (use a short rappel or lead Barrel of Monkeys). The crag main features are the "Iron Curtain", a smooth face to a ledge 8' up spanning the first five routes, and the "Rock Fall Area", just left of center, where many large loose blocks have come down.

As are all routes in the guidebook, these are described left to right.

There is a wonderful swim spot in Sacandaga lake near the Quarry parking area. The beach is owned by NYS and open to the public. From the parking area, drive east on NY 8, then turn right onto Tamarack Road. Follow this to its end, then turn left onto Fawn Lake Road. At its end, turn right onto Forest Trail.

Barrel of Monkeys 5.4 G 35'

A good introduction to the area.

Start: 25' left of Sarge at a left-facing corner just right of a large, dirty chimney–crack.

P1 5.3 G: Up low-angled, highly-featured rock to a large ledge, then angle right to a fixed anchor. 35'

Sarge 5.7+ G 42'

The fixed anchor is accessible from the top; use a short rappel to avoid unstable rock.

Start: Near the left end of the cliff is an orange nose near the top. Begin just right of the nose, 55' left of Bullseye and 10' left of Buzz, below a horizontal crack 8' up.

P1 5.7+ G: (V1, V2) Climb up two small vertical cracks to the left of a smooth face. Continue up thin seams to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 42'

V1 5.6+ G: Begin by climbing the left-arching corner on the right of the smooth face to a great jug, then pull onto a small ledge. Join the normal route to the top.

V2 Stinky Pete 5.10c TR: Just right of the normal start, climb the smooth face using a horizontal crack.

Buzz 5.8 G 40'

Start: At a face just right of a left-facing corner that arches left into a small ceiling.

P1 5.8 G: (V1) Go directly up the face staying out of the left-arching corner, to a ledge at mid-height. Continue up a thin, broken crack to a fixed anchor. 40'

V1 5.6+ G: Begin just left in the left-facing corner that arches left into a small ceiling. Move up the corner to a high jug at the end of the arch, the up to a horizontal crack. Step right and climb a thin crack to a good ledge with a fixed anchor.

To Infinity and Beyond! 5.9 G 35'

Despite appearances of being thin and crimpy, this is a fun climb that has a lot more available than meets the eye.

Start: 6' right of Buzz at a black face with shattered rock.

P1 5.9 G: (V1) Climb the black face to a good horizontal, then follow a straight-up seam to a fixed anchor.

The fixed anchor is accessible from the top; use a short rappel to avoid unstable rock. 35'

V1 Wheezy 5.10b G: Go up the smooth rock face to the right of the bolts using face crimps, avoiding use of the side pulls on Woody. Higher up, move diagonally right up small footholds, then lunge from a crimp to a horizontal crack.

Woody 5.7 PG 35'

Perhaps the most obvious crack at the cliff. There is no fixed anchor; use "woody" (trees) for toprope anchors. Beware of large, loose, unstable rock at bottom overhang and loose blocks at top ledge area. When setting up as a toprope, there is a bolt around the corner from the main face to serve as a directional to keep the belay end of the rope out of a crack.

Start: 5' right of To Infinity and Beyond! and at the left end of a low ceiling 4' up with some lighter-colored unstable blocks in it.

P1 5.7 PG: Climb straight up black rock to a left-leaning orange seam that becomes a right-facing corner, then up to a ledge. 35'

Squeeky Toy Aliens 5.7 G 35'

Use caution with the large unstable blocks at the overhang.

Start: At the right side of large hanging blocks.

P1 5.7 G: Go up the hanging blocks, then straight up using horizontal cracks to finish on a large ledge at a fixed anchor around the corner of the face. 35'

Emperor Zurg 5.10a G 37'

The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

Start: On the right end of the low ceiling 4' up at a thin seam in black rock.

P1 5.10a G: (V1) Up the seam in the smooth face to a ledge in a small right-facing corner. Work up and left for 4', then straight up the orange face to a fixed anchor. 37'

V1 The Project 5.12 TR: Start just right of Squeeky Toy Aliens in the center of the low ceiling 4' up. Climb over the ceiling, then up the smooth face to a second ceiling. Over this, then up to the Emperor Zurg fixed anchor.

Rex 5.8+ TR 35'

Start as for Emperor Zurg and step up and right onto a black face with good incut, crimpy holds. Up the face to a ledge, then over a ceiling and onto an orange face. Continue up some overlapping blocks to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

I Am Not a Toy! 5.10b TR 30'

Begin 10' right of Rex at a 5'-wide ceiling 4' up in black rock. Up the black face, then over a small ceiling to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

Bullseye 5.8 G 30'

This route has two bolts which were missing hangers for years, as they were being used by locals for target practice. No top anchor, but you can reach left and use the fixed anchor on I Am Not a Toy.

Start: 5' right of I Am Not a Toy, and just right of a 5'-wide ceiling 4' up, 40' from the right end of the cliff.

P1 5.8 G: Up past a ledge on the right to a ceiling (bolt), then up past a V-shaped pod to the top. 30'

Tour Guide Barbie 5.7+ TR 28'

Start as for Bullseye. Climb up and right through shattered rock to a horizontal crack, then to a vertical seam that leads to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

Psycho Sid 5.7 TR 25'

Begin 25' from the right end of the cliff at the 4th crack from the right end of the cliff, and the first crack right of Bullseye. Up the crack to a good ledge, step right and follow a seam to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

Mutant Toy 5.6 TR 20'

This is the second crack (which is more of a seam) from the right end of the cliff, and 15' from the right end of the cliff. Up the thin crack past horizontals to a ledge, then past a small alcove to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

Mr. Potato Head 5.7 TR 16'

(V1) Begin 6' from the right end of the cliff. Up a face with thin holds in a seam to an 8"-wide vertical slot with a fixed anchor just above. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

V1 Mrs. Potato Head TR: Begin further right at a large blocky crack near the right end of the crag.

Wallface

Prelude to Gravity [Route #6, page 359] has a new pitch, completing the route to the "top" of the cliff (or at least to where the cliff turns to trees and slabs). Very good climbing, delicious exposure, and clean rock. From the top anchor, you can join Wandering Wizard or simply rappel (two 60m rappels to the ground).

P4 Rolling the Dice 5.11b G : Balance up and left to the top of the Ax of Karma flake, then move up and right onto the steep wall to a short, shallow right-facing corner (gear). Up the corner, then face climb up and right to an imposing, overhanging wave of rock. Pull over the ceiling (crux), up a face, then angle left 40' across several slabs to a steep headwall. Up the headwall (5.10c, much harder than it looks) to a fixed anchor. Requires 13 draws and 2 red aliens. 170'

A flake fell from P1 of Free Ride [Route #27, page 373] just before the bolt. A tight #3 Camalot now provides adequate protection for the move to the bolt. The grade of P1 remains unchanced.

Pay As You Go 5.10 PG (5.9 R, 5.8X) 620'

P3 is classic—nice rock, multiple cruxes, and solid protection—, but the P1 barrier (and its 40+' runouts) will keep away only the most determined.

Start: Follow the 4th class ramp onto the shield terrace. Begin at the right end of the terrace, 30' right of Free Ride P4 and below the distinct black streak on the shield, and 20' left of a broad, vegetated, left-facing corner.

P1 5.9 R (5.8 X): Climb the face with no protection (5.8 X) to a small overlap and the obvious right-arching crack and corner above. Continue up the corner until it is possible to move back left up and over the corner (5.9 R) then trend right following an obvious weakness (no pro) to reach a tree island. 160'

P2 5.1 PG: Continue up easy terrain across the terrace to a birch tree, then traverse right 20' until it is possible to move straight up then right again to more trees directly below two vertical crack systems. 150'

P3 5.10 PG : Follow the obvious fist-sized crack off the belay through a bulge. Climb straight up into a shallow, left-facing corner (5.10), then up a larger left-facing corner capped by a roof. Exit out the roof at a crack (5.10) to a semi-hanging gear belay. 130'

P4 5.7 PG: Move up and right to a crumbly crack and follow this straight up until the climbing eases. Trend left as the cliff merges with krumholtz. Continue up and left until a secure belay can be made at the top of the cliff. 180'

Descent: Tunnel left for 150' to the top of Free Ride and rappel that route.

Na-my 5.8 PG 430'

[Starts between routes #33 and #34, pages 378–380]

Start: 75' right of Mental Blocks is a large right-facing corner with a chimney (as described in the start of The B.M.Z. [page 380]). Begin on the face left of this corner.

P1 5.8 PG: Zigzag up the unprotected face (5.6) to a ledge system with trees, then over short rock steps moving up and passing to the left of a short, shallow, left-facing, left-leaning corner. Move up and over a bulge (crux), then traverse 20' right to a spacious ledge (shared with P1 of The B.M.Z.). 120'

P2 5.5 G: From here, The B.M.Z. goes out left. Instead, go up a short corner (5.5), then head up right following a chimney-like ramp (5.4). Belay in flakes at the top of the chimney. 120'

P3 5.8 G: Go straight up over a bulge (5.7) to a layback under a flake leading left and forming a small, left-facing corner that joins the steep, blank-looking corner coming up from the alcove below. Follow this corner to its top (5.8) where it changes to right-facing. Follow this to a very bushy alcove. 90'

P4 5.8 PG: Do not follow the large and obvious corner leading diagonally up left from the alcove. Instead, ascend a short, overhanging wall at the back of the alcove to a smaller, hidden corner that ascends diagonally up and right. Go up this (5.8, some loose rock) and escape right following a corner (5.4) to a ledge at its top. 100'

Descent: Three more 4th class pitches lead up and right following high-angle brush and over vertical moss-covered steps. From here, the first ascent party walked (climber's) right and down to the north end of Indian Pass.

Poke-O Moonshine: Main Face

The route Katrina is reported to be a bit of a sandbag.

The first pitch of Home Run Derby is reported to be a fairly serious bit of climbing, perhaps justifying the R rating.

The new first pitch of Sailor's Dive is reported to be R.

The fixed anchor on Homecoming has been beefed up (you no longer need to traverse to Ukiah).

The route Air Male has been extended with three additional bolts to the shared anchor of Son of a Mother. Although sustained, the overall grade of the route doesn't change. From the anchor of the original route, move delicately right and up to a bolt (long runner), then go left and mantel up to a ledge. Continue straight up on sidepulls and crimps to the fixed anchor.

Variation to Son of a Mother [Route #14, page 41].

V1 5.11a G: At the second bolt, step left on small edges to a good handhold on the blunt arête. Join Air Male to the top.

A block fell from P1 of The Snatch [route 75, page 61] leaving a blank section and some dangerous choss. This has been cleaned up and, with the addition of a bolt, is now an excellent, safe pitch. The grade has not changed.

The block that fell from P1 of The Snatch affected the grade of P1 of The Body Snatcher [route 73, page 61], since this section of the routes is shared. This pitch is now 5.10.

Under the Influence 5.10d G 195'

Start: At the P2 anchor of Cirrhosis.

P1 5.10d G: Climb up and right to a large suspect (but sound) flake. Climb the flake, then head left and up to a shallow right-facing corner–crack. Follow the crack up a left-facing corner to an overhang (3" cam helpful), through the overhang using a finger crack, to the face above. At the last bolt head up and right to a thin crack. Climb the crack and face above to the top. 195'

Poke-O Moonshine: Slab

Our Tenth 5.5 PG 340'

[Left of route #1, page 100]

A previously unknown route that makes a good diversion while waiting your turn on Catharsis. High quality climbing on P1 with clean, featured rock and solid pro every 25'; P2 is of lesser quality.

Start: 40' left of Catharsis below a clean, featured, dark brown slab.

P1 5.5 PG : Up the featured slab using friction and positive edges, flakes, and small corners. Cross the right-rising crack at 60', then continue straight up steeper, dark brown rock until the angle eases. Head left to an oak tree with a fixed anchor. 160'

P2 5.5 PG: Head straight right, then angle up and right across a brushy ledge to a left-facing corner, up this, then continue traversing rightwards to join Catharsis just before at the Dead Oak Ledge. 180'

Poke-O Moonshine: Upper Tiers: Third Tier

The Third Tier is mentioned on page 127 with a reference to a historic route in the huge left-facing corner on the upper half of the cliff.

Rearview Mirror 5.9 G (5.7 R) 150'

This route is located on the right side of a buttress, the left side of which is the huge left-facing corner mentioned on page 127. A sub-par first pitch and good second pitch.

Start: At a shallow open book that curves left, 30' uphill and right of an 8'-wide black water streak that is directly below a huge open book on the upper half of the cliff.

P1 5.7 R: Follow the shallow open book up left past a small white birch to a slab. Step up left onto the slab (5.7 R) and up to a deep horizontal below a towering prow of rock. Traverse 20' left to a large blueberry-covered ledge. 75'

P2 5.9 G: Follow an offwidth crack (crux) on the left side of stacked blocks to a ledge formed by the blocks. Finish up a jamcrack in the huge open book above. 75'

Gear: Standard rack plus some large cams.

Hand Therapy 5.8- PG 75'

Harder for short climbers or those with small hands.

Start: At short left-leaning cracks below a right-facing corner system, 25' right of the shallow open book of Rearview Mirror.

P1 5.8- PG: Climb the cracks and corner system, then up a 4"-wide slot and finger crack to the top. 75'

Autumn Gold 5.9 PG 90'

Start: Below an undulating 3'-deep left-facing left-leaning corner, 35' right of a huge perched block whose left end is sharply pointed and forms a bottomless chimney.

P1 5.9 PG: Up the undulating corner to a stance just right of a short right-facing corner. Angle up right into a right-facing V-corner (the left-hand of two corners), step left at the top of the corner, and pull over the top. 90'

Trick Move 5.10b G 90'

Start: At a slightly low-angle left-facing corner on the right end of a 20'-high black wall, 120 right of the Autumn Gold corner. There is a spruce tree above the left end of the black wall, 30' up.

P1 5.10b G: Up the corner to the first ledge, which is just below a broad ledge running to the left. Move up right onto the huge ledge at the base of a large left-facing corner. Follow the corner (3.5" Friend useful) to the top. 90'

Maiden Voyage 5.8+ G 90'

Probably PG for shorter climbers.

Start: At a large left-facing corner with a 20'-high yellow spot on the right wall, 50' right of the Trick Move corner.

P1 5.8+ G: Follow the corner and crack that diverges left to a large ledge. Step out right and finish up a short jamcrack. 90'

Poke-O Moonshine: Upper Tiers: Fourth Tier

As you move right along the base of the Third Tier, just right of Rearview Mirror, the cliff splits, forming a fourth tier. A tree ledge up to 80' deep separates the two tiers. Although it is possible to reach this ledge by hiking around the left end of the Third Tier (or around to the right with some 5th class moves; not recommended), climbers have so far found it easier to gain this ledge by climbing one of the routes on the Third Tier; if you climb Hand Therapy, you'll arrive at the base of Rockhound and Poke-O Pup.

Rockhound 5.6 G 35'

Start: At a right-facing corner on the left side of a short black water-stained wall near the left end of the Fourth Tier, less than 50' from where the Third Tier and Fourth Tier merge.

P1 5.6 G: Up the corner, exit left near the top. 35'

FA10/08: Ken Nichols, Mark Bealor

Poke-O Pup 5.8 G 35'

Harder for short climbers.

Start: At a shallow right-facing corner below some vertical cracks in the black water-stained wall, 6' right of the Rockhound corner.

P1 5.8 G: Follow the corners and cracks to the top. 35'

Defiant Eyes 5.11d PG 40'

The runout through the crux is above bomber nuts.

Start: At a vertical crack 30' right of Poke-O Pup.

P1 5.11d PG: Climb the crack and a small left-facing corner, then up the face to a larger right-facing corner. Stretch up left to the arête and pull over the top. 40'

Lakeview 5.7 G 50'

Great views of Lake Champlain.

Start: At a left-facing crack that leads up right to a ledge with a large perched flake, 40' right of Defiant Eyes.

P1 5.7 G: Up the crack to the ledge, pull up onto the perched flake, then follow a large open book to the top. 50'

True North 5.10b G 60'

Continually interesting and beautiful to look at. Requires skills in placing small nuts. Named for a book by Jim Harrison.

Start: At a thin crack below an attractive 5"-deep left-facing corner that curves up the face, 8' right of a prominent arête and 50' right of the Lakeview crack.

P1 5.10b G: Climb the crack and follow the corner up right to the top. 60'

Gear: Two #6 Crack'n Ups (hook-like pitons by Black Diamond) were used on the first ascent.

Perfect Pitch 5.10b G 70'

Named for the aesthetic quality of this stunning corner, like Frosted Mug at the Upper Beer Wall.

Start: At a flawless left-facing corner with a short offwidth section, 80' right of the prominent arête (the arête that is 8' left of True North).

P1 5.10b G: Up the beautiful corner until just below the top. Finish up a short vertical crack to the left. 70'

Courthouse

Consensus rating for Criminal Lawyer is 5.10a. There's a giant raven's nest at the square block that doesn't interfere with the climbing. In the spring when the nest is occupied, well, that's another story. [Route #3, page 403]

Variation to Hung Jury [Route #2, page 402].

V2 Judge Judy 5.11a G : A direct line to the top with a sustained, technical fingercrack interspersed with horizontals. There are two cracks that break the roof mentioned in Hung Jury; this is the left crack. At the left side of the roof, start with a perfect hand jam and climb the fingercrack to the top.

Upper Washbowl

Northern Revival 5.12c PG 360'

[Between routes #7 and #8, page 202]

Follows the right-facing corner system just right of Too Wet to Plow. Amazing position and unique movement with steep bouldery sequences on pinches and slopey crimps, requiring many small cams in a row. Be mindful of the protection, as several gear placements make the difference between this being reasonable and R-rated. With proper rope management you can combine P1 and P2.

Start: Same as Wiessner Route.

P1 5.5 G: Climb P1 of Wiessner Route to the first big ledge. Traverse to the right end of the ledge below a left-leaning, left-facing corner and belay on small cams. 70'

P2 5.10c PG: Follow the left-facing corner system up and left using many long slings to reduce drag later in the pitch. At the top of the corner, step back right past a bolt and continue up past small cam placements and another bolt to a fixed anchor on a hanging ramp. (Note: A red Alien or large HB offset protect the moves to the anchor.) 80'

P3 5.12c PG: Work up and right past two bolts (crux) and follow the corner until below a small roof where the crack runs out (black alien under the roof is the only piece that will fit). Run it out up and right to a shallow left-facing corner and good gear. Pull out right around the corner and up the face to a beautiful ledge and fixed anchor. 150'

P4 5.9 PG: A wonderfully exposed pitch up the very prow of the wall: head up and left and pull around the left side of an arête. Stay just left of the arête past small gear placements to the top. 60'

Gear: RPs, double set of cams to 2", 5 ea 0.4" (#00 C3 or black Alien). Although the gear is thin in the corner, it is solid.

Soup Kitchen 5.8+ G 90'

[Replacement for route #15, page 204]

This route ascends the new rock that was exposed when Green Beer fell into the talus in 2008.

Start: At the white scar 30' right of Prelude.

P1 5.8+ G: Layback along a left-leaning fingercrack, pull a roof, then continue on easier ground to a fixed anchor. 90'

Whitewater Walls

The approach to these walls has been improved and is now a fairly straight line from the road to the river with a few cairns along the way. On the far side of the river, there is now a path to Wall #3 which climbs gently to the right across a rocky area before turning uphill, reducing erosion.

A Paris Parody 5.4 G 70'

[Right of route #12, page 154]

Start: 20' right of Walk On The Easy Side.

P1 5.4 G: Climb good holds (V1) past a small white pine. Continue past a single bolt (crux), then straight up over bulges to the top. 70'

V1 5.5 R: Move up and right to a small left-facing flake. Climb up and left along an undercling, then up right to a horizontal. Step right to a good crack and follow it up and left to easy slab topout.

Backwater Wall

Backwater Wall is the fourth wall in the Whitewater Wall series. It's set back in the woods and cannot be seen from the road.

Directions: Same as for Whitewater Walls (page 153). From Wall #3 (the rightmost of the walls), make your way to the top (go either left or right; both work), then walk straight back into the woods and up along a brook to waterfall in a hollow. Turn right (east) out of the hollow and across the hill to the base of Backwater Wall. The approach takes about 5 minutes from the top of Wall #3.

Hydraulic 5.4 X 65'

Start: Near the left end of the cliff, 15' right of where path switchbacks left to the top of the cliff, at a small 8'-high promontory of rock at the base of the cliff.

P1 5.4 X: Climb the promontory. Step left and then run out the pleasant face to a horizontal crack 40' up (gear). Follow the diagonal feature up and right to finish in a flaring vertical crack. 65'

Cool Water 5.7 G 65'

Perhaps the best route here.

Start: Same as Hydraulic.

P1 5.7 G: Climb the promontory. Step a few feet right to below a small left-facing corner (excellent gear at its base). Climb up into the corner (crux) and up a couple easier, but unprotected moves above (5.5). Easier face and crack climbing leads up and right to the top. 65'

Whirlpool 5.5 PG 60'

Start: 15' right of Hydraulic and about 2' right of mossy area on wall.

P1 5.4 PG: Face climb for 15', then continue up and slightly left to the base of a large, obvious diagonal crack, which is followed to the top. 60'

Flume 5.5 PG 60'

Same: Same as Whirlpool.

P1 5.5 PG: Face climb 15', then move right to a small right-facing corner. Gain a small diagonal finger crack and follow this to just below a second, larger right-facing corner. Continue following another small diagonal crack until you intercept the top few feet of Rock Hop. 60'

Rock Hop 5.3 PG 60'

Start: Near the center of the cliff, below a ledge 10' up with small maples.

P1 5.3 PG: Gain the ledge by climbing in from the right. (Alternatively, make one 5.5 move up the short crack.) Move up into the shallow alcove, and then right and up blocky rock to finish at the birch tree in the center of the cliff. 60'

Eddy 5.4 G 65'

Start: Right of Rock Hop below a pyramid-shaped slab.

P1 5.4 G: Go up the slab, through a notch at the top (crux), then up to an arête to join Rock Hop at the top. 65'

Swept Away 5.8- G (5.5 R) 70'

A one move wonder.

Start: 25' right of the maple ledge of Rock Hop, below a large left-diagonaling overhang 12' up, and just left of an 8" tree.

P1 5.8- G (5.5 R): Climb easily up the overhang, reaching it a couple feet left of the crack in the overhang (which takes good gear). Break through the overhang, then step right and up into a corner. Climb the corner, and face to the right, to the top (5.5 R). 70'

River Run 5.4 G 50'

Start: 25' right of Swept Away, just right of a 10" maple tree, below a blunt rounded section of rock with a network of diagonal cracks.

P1 5.4 G: Climb up, then trend left using the network of cracks. Continue up on good horizontals as the angle eases. 50'

Moss Cliff

The description of the start of Adirondack Black Fly Rancher [Route #12, page 330] should read, "12' left of the arête at an offset finger- and hand-crack, directly behind a large dead stump."

The "adventurous river crossing" has been restored, so bring a locking biner and clip both lines together (for redundancy).

Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber 5.12d PG 80'

[Between routes #12 and #13, page 330]

Sustained, technical and powerful moves above small intermittent gear; a real testpiece of traditionally-protected climbing. Easily toproped from the Mistah Luthah anchor.

Start: At a short fingercrack in a shallow right facing corner 3' left of the arête that divides the Free Wall and the Aid Wall. Also 9' right of Adirondack Black Fly Rancher and 6' left of Mistah Luthah.

P1 5.12d PG: Up the initial crack, surge up to a jug, lieback and gaston up the left-trending flakes and punch it back right past the crux bulge on crisp crimps. Finish by sidepulling up both sides of the arête to the fixed anchor at the top of Mistah Luthah. Have a cigar! 80'

Gear: Cams from purple C3 (#00) to yellow C3 (#2), 2 ea #3 RPs, other small wires.

Mistah Luthah 5.12a G 80'

[Between routes #12 and #13, page 330]

Very cool climbing starting with a crack, then a hard techy face, and finally an amazing 5.10+ fingercrack. Solid for the grade.

Start: 15' right of Adirondack Black Fly Rancher below a short fingercrack, 3' right of the arête that divides the Free Wall and the Aid Wall.

P1 5.12a: Up the initial crack, then negotiate a thin, technical face past three bolts (crux) to a striking splitter fingercrack. Follow the fingercrack to its top, which is at the right end of the Touch of Class P1 belay ledge at a fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Double set of cams from green C3 to purple Camalot.

Ill Fire (linkup) 5.14a PG 140'

The most difficult and demanding climbing in the Adirondack Park. Kamitses was finally able to send this after 5 days of effort. Super pumpy and technical.

Start: At the Party Ledge. There are various ways to reach the ledge, the easiest being P1 of Coronary Country.

P1 5.14a PG: Climb Illuminiscence P2 (5.13d) to where it intersects Fire in the Sky (the belay for Children and Alcohol). Continue left and finish on P2 of Fire in the Sky (5.13c). 140'

Little Crow Mountain: Citrus Wall

On the approach to Barney Rubble Wall, the book mentions [page 278] "...an attractive wall with a great-looking steep handcrack..." This is the Citrus Wall, a steep sheer wall with a flat, open, grassy base, named for the distinctive orange lichen that graces the route Orange Crush. The cliff, like it's neighbor Barney Rubble Wall, has an open rocky top with excellent views of the Giant, Hurricane, Dix, and the Great Range.

Descent: Walk left.

Orange Crush 5.10c G 60'

Steep crack climbing with an overhanging finish on jugs; juicy and delicious.

Start: At a steep handcrack through orange lichen-covered rock, 4' right a prominent right-facing corner that defines the left end of the cliff.

P1 5.10c G: Jam up the handcrack to where it widens (4" cam helpful). Hand traverse right and mantel onto a ledge, then step back left to the crack line. Move up to a slot (crux) and finish on steep jugs. Belay from large pine trees on top. 60'

Gear: To 4".

Plumb Line 5.9 G 60'

Start: On the right side of the wall, 40' right of Orange Crush, below a handcrack that defines the right side of a black streak.

P1 5.9 G: Up the handcrack to its top, step left, and continue up another crack to lower angled rock which is climbed more easily to the top of the wall. Belay from large pine trees on top. 60'

Gear: To 2".

Little Crow Mountain: Barney Rubble Wall

The route Welcome to Bedrock is no longer missing bolt hangers, and thus probably gets an extra star. The route requires 5 quickdraws and a 1" cam. [Route #5, page 278]

The route Betty is a Klepto is no longer missing bolt hangers. The route requires 2 draws and cams to 2". The direct finish above the last bolt is 5.9 G. [Route #7, page 278]

Hollyrock 5.0 R 60'

An easy solo that provides access to the top of the Citrus Wall and the Barney Rubble Wall. The unique rubble is surprisingly solid with many holds.

Start: Halfway between the Barney Rubble Wall and the Citrus Wall below a slab with glued-on rubble.

P1 5.0 R: Climb up the slab to the rubble, the angle left to the top of the wall.

Yabba Dabba Doo 5.10d G 40'

Strenuous and height-related; exceedingly difficult for short climbers.

Start: 5' uphill and left of the left end of the Barney Rubble Wall, just right of a black streak.

P1 5.10d G: Thin face moves lead to a left-facing edge (crux), then move up and right to a good stance. Work up the face past several good horizontal cracks to a final puzzling mantel into a scoop, then step up to the summit. 45'

Gear: Draws plus cams 1 ea 1", 0.25".

Hitchins Pond

Without a Hitch 5.2 G 35'

An easy climb in a spectacular setting below where the overlook trail emerges from the woods.

Start: Approach from the top: where the trail meets the cliff, scramble down ramped ledges to the (skiers) right (3rd class). Begin below a fingercrack at a flat slab backed by trees.

P1 5.2 G: Climb the fingercrack straight to the overlook above. 35'

Meadow Hill Cliff

Location: Hammond Pond Wild Forest, accessed from Ensign Pond Road

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 50'

Quality:

Description: A small cliff, about 50' high and 150' wide, that faces away from the road and overlooks an attractive wetland and meadow, hence the name. It's sits on a small subsidiary bump of Harris Hill off Ensign Pond Road. The woods in this area feature unparalleled natural beauty, so be especially vigilant to keep the area pristine. There are several unclimbed cracks near My Pleasure, and potential for more difficult routes on the left end. There is some loose rock, and the area is wet.

Approach: 8 min, easy

Directions: From Northway (I-87) Exit 30, travel south on US 9 for 6.8 miles to Caza Turn Road (CR 4) on the left. Turn left, then left again onto Ensign Pond Road. From the Northway (I-87) Exit 29, drive north 2.4 miles to Caza Turn Road (CR 4) on the right. Turn right, then right again onto Ensign Pond Road.

Drive east on Ensign Pond Road for 5.8 miles to the Trout Pond trailhead on the left (south) side of the road. Turn around and drive west for 0.4 miles to a widened shoulder on the right side of the road with plenty of room for several cars 18T 0609944 4874923. This is the first widened shoulder on the right past the yellow "35 MPH" sign.

Walk west on the road for 450' to where a stream runs up against the road on the south side. Cross at its narrowest point; there is a cairn on the far side. Turn right and proceed parallel the road for a few feet under some overhanging outcrops. Step up into the woods (cairn), climb the hill, then hike across the flat top of the hill through open woods. As you descend the other side of the hill, you will reach the top of the cliff 18T 610174 4874799. Turn (skier's) right to descend to the base of the cliff at its left end.

My Pleasure 5.8 PG 45'

Fun moves and reportedly worth the short approach.

Start: Moving right from the left end of the cliff, the first major feature is a large right-facing corner capped by roof 35' up. 30' right is a pile of blocks detached from the cliff. Begin just right of this pile of blocks below an obvious crack.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb the crack past a small overhang 15' up to the top. 45'

Gear: Mostly small: stoppers, small nuts, and cams to 0.5".

Sleeping Beauty

The dirt road that goes to Dacy Clearing from the Upper Hogtown trailhead did not open during the 2010 season until November. Driving access to Dacy Clearing is currently closed and updated status can be found at http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/9195.html. When the road is closed, the hiking time to Dacy Clearing is approximately 30 minutes and with little change in elevation.

Sleeping Beauty: Circus Wall

Hoops and Yo Yo 5.10a G 120'

Start: Same as High Wire.

P1 5.9 G: Move right after the first bolt up under bottom of an arête, past three bolts on the arête to fixed anchor 70'.

P2 5.10a G: (V1) Go right past a bolt to the bottom of a left-facing corner. Up the corner past 3 bolts to a fixed anchor. 50'

V1 Side Show 5.9 PG : Move left past a bolt to the base of a crack. Follow right-leaning crack through center of the face to the shared fixed anchor with Hoops and Yo Yo.

War of the Worlds 5.10a G 170'

Start: 45' right of High Wire, in the center of a face with a bolt.

P1 5.9 PG: Climb up face past 2 bolts to right-facing corner and ledge. From ledge, continue up corner to a fixed anchor. 80'

P2 5.10a G: (V1) Follow large corner-roof to its top. Move right and continue up right-leaning crack past a bolt to a horizontal. Continue up crack and horizontals to a fixed anchor. 90'

V1 Vendetta 5.10b G : Continue straight up from anchor through roof (bolts) to a shallow left-facing corner. Work up the corner, then up face past (bolt) to the fixed anchor.

Gear: To 4".

Sleeping Beauty: Tang Wall

Not Long For This World 5.8 G 45'

[Between routes #7 and #8, page 431]

The entire section of cliff is poorly attached to the rest of the mountain, hence the name.

Start: On the left wall of the Sizzle Me right-facing corner, at a handcrack running from lower right to upper left.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the crack and step up onto a ledge. 45'

Gear: Double cams from 1-1/2" to 3".

Descent: Walk left to the anchors on Sundowner Crack.

Shelving Rock

Location: North of NY 149 on the east shore of Lake George, accessed from Northway Exit 20

Aspect: Southwest

Height: 160'

Quality: ****

Description: This long cliff rises above the eastern shore of Lake George. It has long been a curiosity of local climbers, but it wasn't until recently that it's seen development. The cliff features a lot of choss, but the routes documented here (mostly) stick to the better sections of rock. Large talus fields and fresh rock debris skirt the base of this cliff so watch your footing (and poison ivy) as you approach your climbs. As with any recently developed cliffs, helmets are recommended for both the leader and belayer. Test your holds before weighting them and place protection often. The rock is similar to that of nearby Sleeping Beauty, and like its neighbor, has one of the longest climbing seasons in the park. And you can't beat the location—full sun in the afternoon with outstanding views of Lake George.

Due to a cell tower at the Sagamore Resort across the lake, the cliff and parking area have good cell reception. The last 4 miles of the road is a steep dirt road that is subject to closure during mud season (April–May) and can be impassable in midwinter after heavy snow.

Many of the routes are "modern trad", meaning fixed protection and gear; don't expect many clip ups. The majority of routes are well protected, and all of them have fixed anchors. Bring a standard trad rack with an emphasis on small cams and wires.

Siz different sections of the cliff have been developed. From left to right, they are the Carhartt Wall, Main Face, Neanderthal Cave, Big Wall, Jackass Buttress and Politico Wall.

Camping: Sleeping Beauty and Shelving Rock are on a dead-end dirt road with excellent opportunities for car camping. Designated sites are posted on a map at a kiosk that is found at the Upper Hogtown trailhead where the dirt road begins its steep descent from the large parking area on the right. There's also a good bivvy spot at the base of the cliff (no water).

Approach: 4–20 min, easy.

Directions: Follow the directions to Sleeping Beauty to the Upper Hogtown trailhead (page 430). Continue on Shelving Rock Road for several miles past a bridge and the Shelving Rock trailhead on the right. Park 0.5 mile past this trailhead at a parking area on the left; this is parking for a carriage road that leads to the shore, a large lot delineated with boulders 18T 0612838 4823456. Beyond the parking area, the road continues on to private property with no parking or camping.

From the parking area, continue down the road for 30', and look for a herd path on the opposite side of the road from the parking area. There is a fallen 3'-diameter tree, 20' up the path that one must step over. Follow the herd path north, contour uphill, and stay below the talus fields and cliff bands to the right. Specific spur trails are described in the approaches to the different cliff sections.

Shelving Rock: Carhartt Wall

The leftmost section of the cliff that is on public land. There are signs for private land posted below the cliff, yellow paint marking the trees, and a 3' yellow stripe on the cliff to the left of the routes described here. The majority of this wall is private and the public routes are confined to 50' of the rightmost section.

The right side of the wall is 100' of sheer face climbing above a tan-colored slab. The distinctive feature on this section is a shallow, blocky, right-facing corner of Project 002. Just left of center are two arêtes: a lower black arête that leans to the right, above which is a left-leaning arête (the route Vagtastic Voyage) that extends to the top of the cliff. The large right-facing corner to the right of the upper arête (the route The Three Stooges) starts at a sloping ledge that is halfway up the cliff's right side. Carhartt Confidential ascends the most prominent crack on the wall and begins from this ledge. The bottom of the cliff has a right-rising band of dike rock above a narrow ledge with several trees. All of the routes begin on this ledge and cross the dike rock.

This is a tall wall that is best descended with a 70m rope, or two ropes. A rappel with a 60m rope is possible from the top of Three Stooges.

Directions: Follow the path toward the Main Face. 200' before the path reaches the talus field below the cliff is the herd path to the Carhartt Buttress. Follow the path uphill for 50' to a crest, then descend gently downhill for 100 yards. Next, ascend steeply for 150' to a long, level bench and stay below any rock bands that are beneath the Main Face. At the far end of the bench cross a talus field and follow the base of the cliff downhill for 100' to reach the Carhartt Wall at its right end. Hiking time from the main path is 10 min.

Alternatively, you can follow the base of the cliff from the left end of the Main Wall. Hike for 5 min to the top of a talus field, then continue for another 100' to reach the Carhartt Wall at its right end.

Unnamed01 Project

Begin At the left end of the tree-covered ledge where 3rd class steps go up and left to a more exposed ledge. Scramble 3rd class ledges up and right to an open book that is right of the long, sloping, tan-colored slab and left of the low, black arête. Go up the open book, then left above the sloping slab to a stance beneath a right-facing, left-leaning corner that begins 8' above the ledge. Work up the sheer face, stay right of the corner, go over a small overlap and then left past orange rock to the left end of a bulging wall. Climb around the left side of the bulge and move rightward to a fixed anchor 5' below the top of the cliff. 110'.

The Fancy Cat 5.12a G 110'

Start: Go to the left end of the tree-covered ledge where 3rd class steps go up and left to a more exposed ledge. Scramble 3rd class ledges up and right to an open book, then left along the top of the slab to the base of a right-leaning, right-facing corner capped by a small overhang.

P1 5.12a G: Go up the corner then move right to the base of the long, gently-overhanging, shallow, right-facing, right-leaning, blocky corner. Sustained climbing up the corner ends in a slot–crack system; follow this to a fixed anchor shared with Unnamed01. 110'

Gear: Draws plus standard rack to 2".

Cosmic Ripple 5.12b G 110'

Start: Toward the left end of the tree-covered ledge, beneath the low, black arête and several, short right-rising ledges in dike rock.

P1 5.12b G: Work up the ledges and a smooth wall to a long, right-rising ledge. Continue above the ledge on gray rock and go around the left side of the black arête to its top. Pull onto the overhanging, sheer face and go past a small overhang to a stance below a discontinuous crack. Up the crack to a stance below a bulging wall. Work up the wall, stay right of a long overhang, and follow a right-rising seam in orange rock to a ledge where it joins Vagtastic Voyage. Climb a headwall and an arête on the right to a fixed anchor. 110'.

Gear: Draws plus 0.75".

Vagtastic Voyage 5.11c G 110'

Start: In the middle of the tree-covered ledge, 10' left of a detached, hourglass-shaped pillar, below a right-rising ramp–ledge that begins 10' up.

P1 5.11c G: Climb dike rock to the ramp–ledge which is followed right to short, left-facing corners with ledges. Up the corners and ledges to an overlap. Go past the overlap and up to a large, triangular ceiling. Work out the left side of the ceiling then move back right across a sheer face (crux) to a long, left-rising arête. Climb the arête past a large horn, then trend up the left side of the arête on a steepening face to a ledge below a headwall where it joins Cosmic Ripple. Climb the headwall (not easy) and an arête on the right to a fixed anchor. 110'

Gear: To 0.5".

Three Stooges 5.10b G 100'

Start: Same as Three Degrees of Separation.

P1 5.10b G: Follow Three Degrees of Separation to the sloping ledge. Step left and go up a deep, right-facing, left-leaning corner. Move right at a vertical crack, then back left into a higher, right-facing corner that is climbed to the top of the cliff and a fixed anchor. 110'

Carhartt Confidentials 5.10c G (5.7 R) 100'

The original route on the wall, and totally trad. The name comes from the padding that was put in the sharp crack to protect the rope during its first ascent. The runnout start can be avoided by climbing Three Degrees of Separation to the sloping ledge.

Start: At the right side of the tree-covered ledge, next to a detached, hourglass-shaped pillar.

P1 5.10c G (5.7R): Climb the pillar then up left-facing corners with ledges (small gear) to steep orange rock (5.7 R) and a left-facing corner. Go up the corner to a broad, sloping ledge beneath a prominent vertical crack that goes to the top of the cliff. The crack widens from finger to a body-sized slot. Exit the slot to the left and follow the crack as it widens again (3.5") and bends to the right and becomes a left-facing corner. Finish at a fixed anchor shared with Three Degrees of Separation. 110'

Descent: The fixed anchor is not equipped for rappel. Make a short rappel, from trees, to the fixed anchors at the top of routes to the left.

Gear: To 3.5"

Three Degrees of Separation 5.10a G 100'

A tremendous pitch that ascends striking features on the right side of the wall. Exposed, sustained, with varied cruxes.

Start: At the right end of the tree-covered ledge, on a narrow ledge below blocky dike rock.

P1 5.10a G: Climb steepening rock on generous holds, initially trending to the right then back left to the left end of a sloping ledge. Reach right to top out on the sloping ledge and then tackle a steep fingercrack in a left-facing corner. Exit the corner at an exposed stance on the right margin on the wall. Move up a step to the base of a high arête and start up its right side, then work left (exposed) to a small stance below the top. Finish at the fixed anchor shared with Carhartt Confidentials. 110'

Descent: The fixed anchor is not equipped for rappel. Make a short rappel, from trees, to the fixed anchors at the top of routes to the right.

Gear: to 0.75"

The Cenotaph 5.10 G LENGTH

Start: Just right of Three Degrees of Separation.

P1 5.10 G: Follow a line of bolts trending right to the top of the "tombstone". The final 20' is easier if you stay left of the bolts, then cross right at the last bolt. LENGTH

Shelving Rock: Main Wall

This section of cliff is over 200' wide and rises above the highest stretch of talus field. The Main Wall was the first section to be developed, has seen the most climber traffic, and contains some of the best rock. The left end is at a height of land and has a very large, bottomless, right-facing dihedral 70' up, below which is a giant hanging cedar tree. Most of the routes are approximately 100' long and a few have second pitches that climb to the top of the cliff.

Directions: Hike beneath a small talus field above which is the Politico Wall, 2 min from the trailhead. Continue uphill to within 100' of the cliff where the path levels off, near the point where a spur trail on the right (cairn) is reached at 4 min. (This spur trail goes up a forested slope to a broad gully and the Jackass Buttress.) Continue on the main path along a level bench and beneath a larger talus field and the highest section of the cliff (the Big Wall). Avoid the temptation to go up to early. Walk past several refrigerator-sized boulders, past the spur path to the Carhartt Wall on the left, then hike slightly right to a higher bench. From the higher bench, enter the talus field and cut directly uphill and reach the cliff at the right end of the Main Wall 18T 0612781 4823979, about 15 min from the trailhead.

Protractor 5.8 PG 80'

Angular climbing with Gunks-style roofs and exposure. The final traverse, although easy, has sparse protection.

Start: 100' left of the start of Snake Charmer and a bottomless right-facing dihedral 70' up, beneath a large open-book capped by a roof 20' up.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb the easy open-book to the roof, then traverse right along a roof crack. Follow the crack that becomes vertical to a higher roof. Traverse left along a wide crack (easy) to an exposed stance beneath a right-facing flake. Go up the flake (strenuous) to a ledge. Traverse right to fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Standard rack plus an optional 5" cam.

Snake Charmer 5.9 G 100'

Start: Just right of the bottomless right-facing dihedral 70' up, at a blocky, right-facing, left-leaning corner.

P1 5.9 G: Up the blocky corner to a vertical, right-facing corner at its top. Climb the corner with a crack that narrows from hand to finger size at an overhang. Pass the overhang (crux) and follow the fingercrack to a ledge. Above the ledge is an open book. Traverse right, then up and back left to exit the open book onto a traverse ledge. Protect the second (0.5 in cam) and traverse right 20' a fixed anchor shared with Hackett Corner. 100'

Gear: Standard rack; bring long slings.

Hackett Corner 5.10a G 100'

Steep, featured rock. Often wet.

Start: Same as Snake Charmer.

P1 5.10a G: Go halfway up the blocky right-facing corner, then up a shallow, right-facing corner in black rock (15' right of the Snake Charmer corner) to a right-facing slot. Up the slot, then work up and right, staying right of a pointed prow, to a right-facing corner. Follow the corner to a lone birch tree and a fixed anchor shared with Snake Charmer. 100'

Gear: To 2". A 2" cam protects the moves up to the shallow right-facing corner.

Thunder Down Under 510c G (5.7 R) 100'

Although the initial corner has superb climbing that is independent of the neighboring routes, the upper half of the route is squeezed in. A top rope directional bolt is located between the fixed anchors of Hackett Corner and Grin and Bear It.

Start: Same as Grin and Bear It.

P1 5.10c G (5.7 R): Scramble up blocks to a shallow, right-facing, right-leaning corner that is 10' right of the Hackett Corner. Up the corner in fantastic black rock (small wires) to a ledge shared with Grin and Bear it. Move up and left (5.7 R) of an arête with a ceiling. Go over the ceiling and climb easier rock (5.7 R) up and right to the fixed anchor of Grin and Bear It. 100'

Gear: Small wires, gear to 0.5".

Grin and Bear It 5.8+ G 100'

Start: 10' right of the left-rising, blocky, right-facing corner of Snake Charmer, below a left-facing flake 20' up.

P1 5.8+ G: Scramble up blocks to the flake, then power to its top on good holds. Move right into shallow corners then back left to a ledge below a deep right-facing corner (0.5" cam in corner). Move up and left off the ledge to a slab with a thin crack that is climbed to an overlap. Work past the overlap (crux, small wires and cams) and into an open book. Move up and right to a fixed anchor on a large cedar tree. 100'

The Price is Right 5.11a G 100'

Start: Same as Gong Show.

P1 5.11a G: Start up Gong Show then go straight up a black slab to the right end of a long overhang. Pull the overhang and climb over a short overhang to a long slab with an arête at its top. Climb the slab and arête then traverse right to the fixed anchor of Gong Show. 100'

The Gong Show 5.9- G 100'

A short crux with lots of moderate climbing above makes this route a popular warm up.

Start: 25' right of the left-rising blocky corner of Snake Charmer, below the left end of a long ceiling 20' up.

P1 5.9- G: Scramble up blocky terrain to the ceiling. Break through the ceiling on its left side at a jug (crux), then right onto the face above the ceiling. Go straight up to a left-facing corner formed by a huge "gong" flake. At the top of the flake, move up and left across a beautiful, clean face to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws plus 2–3" cams.

Doodle Bug 5.9- PG 100'

Sustained and varied climbing. Not as innocent as the name suggests. Often wet.

Start: 45' downhill and right of the left-rising blocky corner of Snake Charmer, at a short left-leaning crack that begins at head height with a right-facing corner to its right.

P1 5.9- PG: Up the crack (or corner) to a ledge with loose blocks. Step onto a steepening face with dark rock and trend leftwards to a ledge. Reach into a high crack and follow it to a slab. Go up the slab to a right-leaning seam beneath an overhanging wall (small gear). Move up and right to a fixed anchor at the top of an orange streak. 100'

Rock Lobster 5.9+ G 100'

Start: At a right-facing corner with stacked but secure blocks, 10' right of Doodle Bug.

P1 5.9+ G: Up the corner, then work up and right to a broken, open book with a steep wall above it. Pull over the steep wall (crux) and go up to a right-rising arête. Either climb past the arête directly or pass it on the left (easier), to a slab below a prominent arête with an overlap in its left side. Go around the right side of the arête, then up it to an exposed move to the left at its top. Climb easy, but unprotected rock to the fixed anchor shared with Doodle Bug. 100'

Footloose 5.10d PG (5.4 R) 180'

P1 has good stances from which to place overhead protection and makes for a good warm up. P2 is long, involved and has a desperate (but well protected) crux.

Start: 60' uphill and left of the lowest point of the cliff and 20' right of the Doodle Bug corner, at a right-leaning hand- and off-width crack.

P1 5.10a G: Up the crack to a ledge beneath tiered overhangs. Mantle onto a small ledge then pull an overhang to a slab. Go over another overhang and traverse a slab to the right. Step up into a right-facing corner and follow a slab up and right to a fixed anchor. 90'

P2 5.10d (5.4 R): Continue up the slab and right-facing corner. Make a long reach to the right and pull onto another slab and right-facing corner. When the slab ends, climb up through rotten rock (5.4 R) to a bottomless, right-facing corner. Climb the left wall of the corner (watch for rope drag) to an exposed stance beneath a right-rising fin. Layback the fin (crux) and pull onto a ledge beneath a deep V-slot. Stem the slot and exit left onto blocky terrain. Belay at a tree with a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: Standard rack with many long slings.

Descent: Rappel 90' down the slot (on P2) to the fixed anchor at the top of Just Take It, then another rappel to the ground.

Dirty Dancing 5.10d R 90'

Start: 15' left of Just Take It at an overhanging wall with right-leaning seams.

P1 5.10d R: Up the steep rock to a small ledge beneath a 4'-wide ceiling. Pass the ceiling on its left end and move up a broad, square slab. Go up a steep orange wall (that is left of a ledge) to a short ceiling (crux). Pass the ceiling and continue straight up a steep slab to the fixed anchor of Footloose. 90'

Just Take It 5.11d G 100'

Start: 20' uphill and left Rusty Lumberjack below a left-facing, light-colored flake.

P1 5.11d G: Up the flake (2" cam), right through a bulge to a right-facing, right-leaning corner. Break out left from the corner, then straight up the face to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws plus a 2" cam.

Rusty Lumberjack 5.11b PG 100'

Start: At a refrigerator-sized boulder at the lowest point of the cliff.

P1 5.11b PG: Up a sandy, flaky face, then up a right-facing open book to a ceiling. Break left, then up a right-leaning dihedral with a crack. At its top, go up an orange face to an overlap, then right to a fixed anchor shared with Claim Jumper. 100'

Gear: To 1.5".

Claim Jumper 5.11b G 100'

Start: 10' right of Rusty Lumberjack below a low ceiling with a shattered left-facing corner above it.

P1 5.11b G: Up the corner to a stance on the right, then muscle through an orange ceiling to an overhang. Through the overhang (crux), then make big moves to big holds on a clean orange face. Break right, then straight up a crack to a fixed anchor shared with Rusty Lumberjack. 100'

Gear: To 1.5".

Project X 5.12a G 100'

Start: 20' right of Rusty Lumberjack at a chest-high ceiling with a broken slab above it.

P1 5.12a G: Up the slab to the right end of a ceiling, then power through the ceiling on crimpy holds (1st crux) to a stance. Over a second ceiling, up an orange face, then follow a right-leaning crack to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: To 1.5".

Infinity and Beyond 5.10b PG 180'

Although the first pitch has a reachy crux, two of the first ascentionists were less than 5'7".

Start: Below the left side of a large, detached flake below a prominent right-leaning crack that defines the left side of a clean shield of white rock. This is where the terrain begins to slope steeply downward to the left.

P1 5.10b PG: Climb the left side of the detached flake then move left to the bottom of the crack. Follow the crack to an overhang that is passed on the right. Step back into the crack and go up through featured rock until it is possible to reach left to a left-leaning rail. Traverse left along the rail (wingspan dependent) and mantel onto a sloping stance below a vertical crack. Go up the crack to the fixed anchor shared with Project X. 90'

P2 5.10b G: Continue up the crack that leans to the right (crux). Move up and left across easier, but rotten, rock to overhangs below the final headwall. Pass the first overhang to its left then weave right around the next. Make and exposed step to the right into a right-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor at the top. 90'

Descent: Rappel the route.

Infinity Crack 5.12a G (5.8 R) 100'

Start: Same as Infinity and Beyond.

P1 5.12a G (5.8 R): Climb the left side of the flake to its top then step onto the cliff where the crack bulges. Follow the crack as it tappers to a seam. Make powerful underclings with poor feet (crux) along the crack. At its top (join Knights That Say Neigh), traverse right 10' until it is possible to break a ceiling and onto the face above. Follow a horizontal crack to the left then go up a vertical crack to fixed anchors on a ledge. 100'

Gear: To 2".

Monty Python 5.10b PG 180'

Start: At the high point of the terrain, 10' right of a large, detached, blocky flake, and 25' left of the large left-facing corner of Shake and Bake.

P1 5.10a G: Up a gray face, then trend left to a right-leaning, left-facing ramp. Up the ramp to a left-facing flake. Follow the flake to its top, then angle right across the wall following a crack to a ledge beneath a headwall. Up the headwall to a left-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.10b PG: Traverse 25' left on the ledge to the fixed anchor of Knights That Say Neigh. Go up and left to a small ledge, then up a clean corner with small crack. Work up the crack a few feet then step left around an arête and continue up face to a fixed anchor. 80'

Descent: Rappel to Knights That Say Neigh anchor, then another rappel to the ground.

Knights That Say Neigh 5.11b PG (5.8R) 90'

Start: Same as Monty Python.

P1 5.11b PG (5.8 R): Begin Monty Python: go up a gray face, trend left to a right-leaning, left-facing ramp. Climb a thin crack in a shear face that is left of the right-rising slab of Monty Python. When the crack ends at a left-rising overhang, go over it and into the prominent right-rising ceiling that cuts across the cliff. Traverse right for 10' until it is possible to break the ceiling and onto the face above. Follow a horizontal crack to the left then go up a vertical crack to fixed anchors on a ledge. 90'

Holy Grail 5.10c PG 100'

Start: On a table-sized boulder at the height of land, midway between a large, detached flake on the left and a large, left-facing corner on the right.

P1 5.10c PG: Climb up to a ceiling that has a short, 5"-wide, parallel-sided slot. Go up the slot and climb a short open book to a vertical face. Work up the face past a vertical crack to a ledge, then join Monty Python up the headwall to a left-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor. 100'

Unnamed04 Project

An open project, perhaps in the 5.12 range. Begin at the fixed anchors at the top of P1 of Monty Python. A line extends above the anchor and begins with a ledge then follows right-facing flakes and overhangs.

Shake and Bake 5.8- G 80'

Often wet, but a convenient way to the top of the buttress.

Start: At the height of land in a large, left-facing corner on the left side of a clean buttress.

P1 5.8- G: Up the corner to a fixed anchor at the top of the buttress. 80'

Stake and Cake 5.10a PG 170'

Start: Just right of the left-facing corner of Shake and Bake, below the prow of a clean buttress.

P1 5.10a PG: Up an open book in the prow of the buttress (5" cam on the left), then up the prow to another open book that is climbed a fixed anchor at the top of the buttress. 80'

P2 5.9 + PG: Go up a short corner to a ledge and traverse to its right end. Move right over an overhang to the base of a right-leaning, right-facing corner. The corner defines the right end of the tall, black wall with tiered overhangs. Follow the corner until it is possible to break out left and climb to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: To 1" plus 1 ea 5" cam.

Wake and Cake 5.9 G 80'

Start: At blocks left of Wake and Bake.

P1 5.9 G: Climb the blocks, then up a thin crack in face left of Wake and Bake to its end. Traverse left and join the arête of Stake and Cake to its finish. 80'

Wake and Bake 5.10a G 170'

Climbs the clean face right of the prow of Stake and Cake.

Start: At the base of a right-facing corner, which is the next corner to the right of the large Shake and Bake corner.

P1 5.10a G: Up easy rock to an overlap. Move right then climb the center of the face until it is possible to make move left (crux) to a rail, and then back right to the top of the buttress. Scramble to the fixed anchor shared with the neighboring routes. 80'

P2 5.10b G: Go up a short corner to a ledge and traverse to its right end (same as Stake and Cake P2). Start up a black-streaked wall with tiered overhangs, then up to a right-rising overhang that is above light-colored rock. Move over the overhang then work left to a fixed anchor (shared with Stake and Cake). 90'

Gear: To 1".

Line of Fire 5.10c G 90'

An alternate finish to Wake and Bake. The best of the upper pitches on the black wall.

Start: At the top of P1 of Wake and Bake.

P1 5.10c G: Climb a broken, right-facing corner to a stance at its top next to a cedar shrub. Pull onto a vertical face with superb water-worn crimps and knobs. Go up the face (crux) to an overhang and pass this on the right. Work back left and escape onto easier terrain that is followed up and right to a shared fixed anchor. 90'

Kid Rock 5.9 TR 90'

Using the Princess Bride anchor, climb the face between Princess Bride and Wake and Bake. Good climbing, but contrived.

Princess Bride 5.5 G 90'

Start: Right of Wake and Bake in a broken corner.

P1 5.5 G: Climb stacked corners to face climbing past semi-dead pine, and then step left onto rock steps that are climbed to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: To 3".

Shelving Rock: Neanderthal Cave

This section of rock is 200' right of where the main herd path reaches the Main Wall.

Directions: From the right end of the Main Wall, go slightly downhill along the cliff base to a steep, blocky arête with a sheer, overhanging, right-hand wall. Protruding Forehead begins to the right of this arête. Further right the wall become concave and has five, large right-facing corners that are above a stepped slab.

Unnamed06 Project

There is a rope hanging down a tall buttress.

Ghost Boner 5.10b G 70' QUALITY

Start: 20' left of Dweezil and 5' right of a high bolt.

P1 5.10b G: Climb up to a low roof and go left onto a slab. Move up and left (crux) to a crack in a slab. Follow the crack to its end then traverse right to a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: to 2".

Dweezil 5.7 G 65'

Start: 10' left of Sub-Dude and a few feet right of a big, loose corner. Up shallow corner to an overlap. Go up across slab and then up a steep wall on jugs to a fixed anchor.

Gear: Draws.

Sub-Dude 5.6 G 75'

Start: 10' left of Devo.

P1 5.6 G: Up steep wall to overlap, which is climbed on the left to a good crack. Up the crack in a slab to a steep, right-rising ramp, which is followed to a fixed anchor.

Gear: Draws.

Devo 5.7+ G 95'

Start: At a low-angled face left around corner of the Neanderthal Cave.

P1 5.7+ G: Climb face through 3 bulging overhangs angling slightly right after the third to a steep wall. Continue straight up and then slightly left to a fixed anchor on thin slab. 95'

Protruding Forehead 5.10d G 60'

Start: Midway along the overhanging wall and beneath an orange-striped flake with horn 15' up.

P1 5.10d G: Up the flake to the horn to gain a right-rising crack. Follow the crack to the right, through an A-frame overhang 25' up. Continue along the crack then work up the shear face to a ledge. Step right to an overhanging left-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor. 60'

Gear: To 1.5".

Knuckle-Dragger 5.9 G 80'

Start: At blocks that lead up to a sloping dirt ledge.

P1 5.9 G: Scramble up to a thin, vertical crack and climb it to the right end of a long, right-facing overhang. Go around the right end of the overhang and up to a stance beneath a long, right-facing corner capped by a ceiling. Climb flakes and move around the right end of the ceiling (crux). Step left across a slab to regain the corner that is followed to its top and a fixed anchor on the right. 80'

Cro-Magnon 5.9+ PG 80'

Start: On a sloping dirt ledge, scramble up blocks from the base of the cliff.

P1 5.9+ PG: Follow ledges to a slab beneath a right-facing corner. Move left to a thin vertical crack on the right side on a blunt arête. Up a thin crack (crux) that is followed by a shallow, right-facing corner and the fixed anchor shared with Knuckle-Dragger. 80'

Homo 5.7 PG 50'

Start: On a sloping dirt ledge, scramble up blocks from the base of the cliff.

P1 5.8 G: Follow ledges to a slab beneath a right-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor. 50'

Yabba Dabba Do 5.9 G 80'

Start: Same as Homo.

P1 5.9 G: Go up and right to a shear wall (bolt) that is climbed to a ledge below an overhang with a right-rising crack above it. Follow the crack to a slab and up to the base of a buttress. Work up the buttress to a fixed anchor at its top. 80'

Shelving Rock: Big Wall

Description: Located 200' right of the Neanderthal Cave and 200' left of the Jackass Buttress at the tallest section of cliff, this shear wall has overhangs and ceilings that stretch across the middle of many of the routes. The cliff base is totally open with no trees, and has tons of debris with room-sized boulders. The open base provides the best views of the lake, but makes for a hot place to climb during the second half of the day. The rock here is blocky but not friable, and requires a good deal of searching to find the best holds. Several of the cruxes involve powerful underclings.

Directions: The easiest approach is from the left end of the Jackass Buttress. Go uphill and left along the base of the cliff then drop down below three room-sized boulders and traverse to a small talus field that is below the left end of the Big Wall near the start of Pinching One Off. Die by the Drop and Johnny Tsunami are reached by scrambling right over the middle and rightmost boulders. Begin Gyroscopic Tendencies by walking around the boulders to the right end of the wall.

Enduro Man 5.10c G 160'

Start: Lowest point of the wall, right of a blocky, overhanging, left-facing corner.

P1 5.10c G: Climb a white calcite strip on overhanging rock to a small ledge 15' up. Move up and left across steepening rock to a right-facing, overhanging corner. Go up the corner, then pull over a bulge onto lower angled rock which is climbed to a fixed anchor below a bulging wall. 60'

P2 5.10c G: Go over the bulging wall and follow a left-rising seam, staying left of a large prow with a left-facing corner on its left side. Climb the corner then straight up a face, past a horizontal crack to a stance below a ceiling high on the cliff. Pull the ceiling on its left side and step into a left-facing corner that is followed to a fixed anchor on the right. 100'

Gear: To 1.5".

Gotta Go 5.9+ G 195'

One of the more exposed and adventuresome routes on the Big Wall. First route on the Big Wall.

Start: At an 6'-tall open book in a bulging buttress with a widening black streak on its right side.

P1 5.9+ G: Climb the open book and go up a slab to broken, overhanging wall that faces right and leads to a ledge. Move up and right to a long ceiling (climbed via a small crimp) that leads to rails. Follow the rails to an overhang on the right. Climb the overhang on its right side, then up easier rock to a right-facing corner with a fixed anchor at its top. 95'

P2 5.9+ G: Traverse left across a grey slab to a deep, right-facing corner which is followed to a face below a tiered ceiling. Climb the face, then go over a ceiling and follow a right-rising seam until it is possible to move up and right to a fixed anchor at the very top of the cliff. 100'

Gear: To 1.5".

Pinching One Off 5.12a G 90'

Some say that underclinging the first ceiling is the crux, while others do battle at the second.

Start: At the top of the talus field, 20' right of a wet spot at the base of the cliff and 20' left of a boulder cave, at a left-rising rail 8' up.

P1 5.12a G: Follow the rail to an overlap, then up steep, blocky rock to a ceiling. Make a powerful undercling move to clear the ceiling and continue up to a long right-rising ceiling in the center of the wall. Trend up and right, staying right of the bolts (spooky clips), until it is possible to step left over the ceiling and onto a black, low-angled face. Climb water-worn rock to a fixed anchor. 90'

Anal Retention 5.11b G 90'

Start: Left of the boulder cave, beneath a discontinuous, right-facing corner 8' up.

P1 5.11b G: Up the corner for 25' to a short overhang then move left to easier climbing that is ends at tiered overhangs. Strenuous undercling moves and sloping footholds gain positive flakes on a shear gray wall. Make a long reach left to a blocky roof, then work right to a broken, right-rising ceiling. Over the ceiling on its right end, then step left onto a slab and follow a left-facing corner to an easy ceiling with a fixed anchor above it. 90'.

Coprophagia Project

A new line between Anal Retention and Die by the Drop.

Die by the Drop 5.10c G 90'

Start: On top of the middle boulder at a couple of chest-sized boulders, beneath a right-facing flake.

P1 5.10c G: Climb the flake to shallow opposing corners. Exit the corners (crux) to the left to a stance beneath a prow. Move right beneath the prow into a right-facing, blocky corner. Go up the sustained corner to a left-rising overhang. Step right over the overhang to a ledge beneath an off-vertical face. Make a bouldery move up the face and then climb easily up and left to a fixed anchor left of a cedar tree. 90'

Johnny Tsunami 5.10b G 90'

A great introduction to the Big Wall. This route features a gymnastic roof move (hang ten!), an exposed crux high above the ground, and a devious facing climbing to the anchor.

Start: On top of the rightmost boulder, 4' left of a deep, right-facing corner.

P1 5.10b G: Up a blocky, vertical wall to the center of a ceiling that has an overhanging wall beneath its right side. Go up the wall then reach right to a jug at the lip and pull onto a slab in a deep, left-facing corner. Follow the corner to tiered ceilings with jugs. At the lip of the ceiling make a hard move into a left-facing corner that is climbed to a ledge with a bulging black wall above it. Work up and left across the wall to a fixed anchor right of a cedar tree. 90'

Gyroscopic Tendencies 5.9+ G 100' QUALITY

Start: Right of the rightmost boulder.

P1 5.9+ G: Follows a long right-facing corner. 100'

Shelving Rock: Jackass Buttress

Description: This buttress forms the left (north) wall of a broad gully that separates the cliffband into two sections. The base of the buttress extends uphill to the left (towards The O'Barrett Factor), where it merges with the tallest section of the cliff, and uphill to the right (towards Winds of Change) where it diminishes in height at the top of the gully.

Directions: Up the main herd path for 4 minutes to a spur path on the right (cairn). Follow the spur path as it climbs a forested slope and enters a 70'-wide talus gully that provides access to the top. Stay left to reach the northern edge of the gully and arrive at the cliff, near The Cold Bare Rapport, at 8 min.

Old School 5.8 G 60'

Vollkommer's first route at Shelving Rock.

Start: At the top of the hill, at a slab that is below a left-facing corner.

P1 5.10a PG: Follow the corner to a tree with a fixed anchor. 60'

The O'Barrett Factor 5.10a PG 100'

Start: At the left side of the buttress, uphill and 40' left of where the approach trail reaches the cliff base, at a large cedar stump.

P1 5.10a PG: Climb an easy flake and go left to a short slab that is beneath a 1' x 1' overhang. Above the overhang is a tall, clean orange face; climb the left side of the face to a tree with a fixed anchor. 100'

Democralypse Now 5.10a G 100'

Still some loose stuff to be cleaned.

Start: 15' left of where the spur path reaches the cliff at a chest-high, right-facing overhang beneath a 15'-tall slab.

P1 5.10a G: Climb the slab to a ceiling that becomes a right-facing corner. Move right over a bulge and into the right-facing corner. Exit left onto a slab and climb up to a steep wall with tiered overhangs. Work over the overhangs then step left around a large right-facing corner to a tall, clean orange face. Climb the right side of the face to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: To 1".

The Cold Bare Rapport 5.8- G 90'

Start: Between two, 8'-tall blocky pillars that are beneath a triangle-shaped face with a horn on top, where the spur path meets the cliff.

P1 5.8- G: Climb the triangle-shaped face, step left onto a slab that is crossed to its left side. Step left over the right end of tiered overhangs, move toward a right-facing corner and then climb up and right across a slab to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: 1 ea 0.5" cam.

Indecision '08 5.7 TR 75'

Begin around on the right side of the buttress, facing the gully, at a left-rising crack just left of Winds of Change. Climb the crack to the fixed anchor shared with Winds of Change.

Winds of Change 5.8+ G 75'

Start: From where the approach trail reaches the base of the cliff, walk 30' right, then 30' up the gully along a steep herd path. Begin at three, 5'-tall, right-facing right-leaning corners below a jutting, diamond-shaped block.

P1 5.8+ G: Step up to the block and go over it to a featured face. Climb past a right-rising crack and a bulge to a left-rising crack that is followed to a ledge. Go up and right to a fixed anchor on top of the buttress. 75'

Gear: To 1".

Shelving Rock: desert shield area

This is the "apron"-like area right of Jackass Buttress, and up left around the corner from Caribou Barbie. Routes are 40-'65' tall with less than ideal rock. The rock is one level above choss, and so much stuff pulled off during cleaning that the base looked like a bomb went off.

The routes Shelving Rock Earth Penetrator, WMD, and Shock and Awe are very easy and used by local guides. long slings are recommended to reduce rope drag.

Rumney but Crumbly 5.9 G 60'

Steep and juggy.

Start: At the left line of bolts.

P1 5.9 G: Go up big holds moving left at 3rd bolt and up to tree anchor. 60'

Gear: Draws.

El Kabong 5.10a PG 60'

Start: Same as Rumney but Crumbly.

P1 5.10a PG: Surf up right to triangle flake. Up slightly left to a fixed anchor shared with Static Cringe. 60'

Gear: Draws.

Static Cringe 5.7 PG 60'

Start: At outside corner–crack that diagonals left.

P1 5.7 PG: Up the corner–crack to fixed anchor left of tree. 60'

Wolfshack Corner 5.5 G 60'

Doesn't actually climb the big corner at all.

Start: Locate the big corner, and begin at slab 6' left of corner.

P1 5.5 G: Up slab to a big chockstone. Step out right into bottomless corner and up to fixed anchor. 60'

Gear: Draws plus gear to 2".

B.O. Plenty 5.10c G 60'

Start: At the large corner.

P1 5.10c G: Climb steep right-facing flakes to tree anchor. 60'

Gear: Draws.

Shelving Rock Earth Penetrator 5.6 G 50'

Start: 6' left of oak.

P1 5.6 G: Diagonal left through a small easy roof to anchor on left side of dirty gully. 50'

Gear: Draws.

WMD 5.6 G 50'

Start: The middle line of bolts behind oak.

P1 5.6 G: Go up the face aiming for the topless hemlock (still alive, but barely). Stay between dirty groove on left and Shock and Awe on the right. 50'

Gear: Draws.

Shock and Awe 5.6 G 50'

Start: On a platform just right of the huge, scarred oak.

P1 5.6 G: Up easy slab, then slightly left through a roof at a right-facing corner. Rraversing right to fixed anchor on right side of arête. 50'

Gear: Draws.

Shelving Rock: Politico Wall

Description: Right of the wide gully that separates the cliff into two sections is a low cliffband. The Politico Wall is roughly centered in this cliff band, faces the lake and is close enough to the dirt road that it can be seen from the routes. Caribou Barbie and Obama Mama are squeezed together and Prima Facie is 100' to the right. Watch for loose rock down low.

Directions: Follow the main herd path for 2 min to several refrigerator-sized boulders at the base of a small talus field and a cairn with metal tube and rock on top. Leave the herd path and go up and slightly right to a high point of the cliff base and the starts of Caribou Barbie and Obama Mama.

Caribou Barbie 5.10a G 90'

Sustained with a steep start and a difficult-to-clip first bolt.

Start: Beneath a chocolate-colored streak that begins 8' up and a short, shattered pillar on the left.

P1 5.10a G: A committing start to a jug and a high first bolt, then easier climbing to a ledge beneath a short buttress. Go up the right side of the buttress (very close to Obama Mama) to another ledge. Climb a gray slab that is left of a long black streak, then move left to gain a right-rising, thin crack. Follow the crack to its end and make a tough high step (crux) onto a bulging wall near the top. Fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: To 1".

Obama Mama 5.8+ G 90'

Watch the clip on the second bolt; after that, the route is 5.6.

Start: A few feet left of a vegetated chimney crack.

P1 5.8+ G: Up steep juggy rock moving left over a bulge to a thin face, then up a shallow left-facing corner to a fixed anchor. 90'

Beckerheads 5.10c G 90'

Start: Same as Obama Mama.

P1 5.10c G: up blocky rock to a hueco that is below and right of a smooth bulge. Move over the bulge (crux) and onto a slab where the climbing eases for 30' to an overlap with more blocky rock. Above the blocky rock is a shear face. Make a high step onto the sheer face, then go left to a diagonal crack that is followed to Obama Mama's last bolt and fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: Draws plus a 1" cam.

Prima Facie 5.7+ G 75'

This section of cliff, closest to the parking area, defines the extreme right end of the climbable rock. The name means "at first sight", as it was the first line in this section of cliff.

Start: 100' right of Obama Mama and 90' left of the extreme right side of the cliff at a short, waist-high ledge beneath a short overhang 15' up.

P1 5.7+ G: Work over the overhang, then go up a face past some huecos and pockets and into a shallow, left-facing corner. Up the corner and face above to a fixed anchor. 75'

Gear: 2–3" cams

Typhoon Wall: Ward Cleaver Buttress

Ward Cleaver 5.11c G 60'

[This route replaces route #22, page 273]

Multiple barn-door cruxes; super clean and super fun.

Start: 10' left of the No Name chimney below a bladelike arête.

P1 5.11c G: Climb the arête to a tree at the top with a fixed anchor. 60'

Gear: Draws and 1 yellow Alien.

Tyhphoon Wall: Main Face

Master of the Flying Guillotine 5.11b G 70'

[Between routes #23 and #24, page 273.]

Climbs the orange arête high on the right side of the gully; the arête resembles a ship's prow. Intricate and unlikely with fantastic exposure. Named for a classic 1975 martial arts film of the same name, and for the blade-like arête that is the central feature of the route.

Start: 25' uphill from Tsunami Slap-Up, on the right side of the gully, below a 6'-high left-facing corner that begins above a shelf 6' up.

P1 5.11b G: Mantel onto the shelf, climb the corner, then up to the top of a right-rising ramp. Step left onto an orange face and work left to the prow-like arête. Up the overhanging arête using both faces (crux) to a ledge at the top with a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: The start requires gear to 0.75", then draws.

Tsunami Slap-Up 5.12a G 70'

[Between routes #23 and #24, page 273. On the topo on page 273, this route ascends the feature labeled "orange tower".]

Climbs a beautiful overhanging prow on the left side of the Main Face. Technical, sequency, and pumpy. Great photo opportunities from a shelf on the opposite side of the gully.

Start: On the left side of the Main Face is a steep, rubble-filled gully that separates the Main Face from the Ward Cleaver Buttress. Begin below the striking overhanging prow on the right side of the gully at a short staircase of incut holds.

P1 5.12a G: Up the staircase of holds, then up an orange face to a triangular incut bucket on the arête. Bump and slap up the overhanging arête to a fixed anchor at the top. Hint: don't clip the last bolt. 70'

Gear: Draws.

Land of the Little People 5.8 PG 120'

[Left of route #24, page 273. On the topo on page 273, this route ascends the feature with the "ow" label.]

Bummer if you're not tiny—take the Normal People variation.

Start: At the low point on the main face, downhill and left of Sports Psychology, below an obvious S-shaped offwidth crack.

P1 5.8 PG: Up the offwidth crack to an overhanging flake that forms a chimney. (V1) Squirm up the tight chimney to the top of the flake. Continue up and right, then straight up a crack to a lichen-covered slab to the top. 120'

V1 Normal People 5.9 PG: At the base of the overhanging flake, step right and climb the outside of the flake to its top, then continue with the normal route.

Gear: To 6".

Descent: The route ends on a tree-covered ledge; rappel from trees.

Some Things Considered 5.9+ TR 90'

Begin 15' left of Force Nine and climb the left-facing corner and open book to the sloped ledge.

Chimney Mountain

Caveman Crack 5.8 G 50'

Far below the main cliff is a jumble of herd paths to many caves and fissures. Near these herd paths is this striking, clean, right-leaning handcrack in orange rock, facing southwest. A toprope can be set with large gear (hexes) in a horizontal crack at the top.

Start: Follow the Chimney Mountain trail from Chimney Mountain Wilderness Lodge (see page 537) for about 30 minutes to a 5'-high rock step in the trail. Take the left herd path below the rock step and traverse the hillside for 2 minutes to the cliff 18T 563200 4838067. Beware of many misleading herd paths and deep holes in the ground. Begin below the obvious right-rising crack on the orange wall.

P1 5.8 G: Up the right-rising crack. After 30', the crack narrows to fingers through a bulge (crux). Continue up on small edges to the top. 50'

Caveman's Hairy Backside 5.4 G 50'

Quite a bit of lichen (hence hairy backside) and some loose rock and flakes.

Start: 50' right of Caveman Crack, just around the corner from large flakes and unfortunate graffiti (it's fading, thank goodness) and 10' left of a small cave, below vertical parallel cracks.

P1 5.4 G: Climb up cracks to less steep climbing above, staying close to the corner to the left. Finish at a small birch on top. 50'

Overlap It Up 5.4 PG 80'

Very nice top area with great views and easy set up of toprope anchors.

Start: Follow herd paths directly uphill from behind Caveman Wall until you reach another large wall (about 75 yards). Begin near the left end of the wall below two 2' overlaps 10' up.

P1 5.4 PG: Undercling your way over the overlaps (gear) staying right of a small birch. Go up the relatively clean and easier, but sparsely protected slab to the blocky top. 80'

Chimney Mountain: True Summit Slabs

This crag is east of the true summit of Chimney Mountain, facing Bullhead Mountain. The cliff has good potential with the best rock yet found on Chimney Mountain—none of the characteristic rotten layers found on the other crags.

Directions: Scramble east and slightly right from the true summit down a broken and vegetated upper slab to a large pine tree 18T 563684 4838035. Scramble down to the (skier's) left of the pine, step down into a 4'-wide cleft and wiggle through a rabbit hole to emerge in a vegetated left-facing corner. Rappel from a fixed anchor on a pine tree to the base of the slab; a 60m rope just makes it.

Sunfall 5.6 G 170'

A nice climb, too bad the steep crack portion isn't longer. From the end of P1, a 3rd class scramble upwards with a 4th class move in the left-facing corner takes you to the top.

Start: First locate Ray's Ascent. From here, scramble down a couple small steep sections, and around a large left-facing corner. Begin 20' left of the corner below a couple of cracks.

P1 5.6 G: Climb 10' up and into a semi-flat scooped out area. Work up the clean, zigzag crack in the vertical wall (crux), then pull over the top of the wall onto the slab above. Continue up easier slab moving towards the right to take advantage of cracks for gear and over a couple of overlaps to belay just to the right of the pine tree in the middle of the slab. 170'

Ray's Ascent 5.5 G 160'

Start: From the rappel, walk left, scramble down 10' at a large boulder, then move to a position below an overhanging left-facing corner that arches up to a ceiling.

P1 5.5 G: Straight up along the base of the corner using a good crack. Pass to the right of two birch trees (V1) and move up and under the overhang. Traverse awkwardly right under the overhang, pass an offwidth crack that breaks the ceiling, and continue to a weakness in the wall directly below the rappel. Pull through the weakness to the rappel tree. 160'

V1 5.4 G: At the second birch, instead of moving up under the overhang, traverse across the slab at the bottom of the step below the ceiling.

Bullhead 5.0 X 60'

Used to access the top, easier than scrambling around the far end of the slab.

Start: 50' right of the rappel.

P1 5.0 X: Climb straight up the slab to an easy exit.

Rogers Rock: Rogers Slide: Main Face

There is a new fixed anchor at the top of Little Finger. Rappelling Prints of Darkness is the easiest and most logical way to descend the slab.

Brinksmanship 5.5 R 280'

Start: Between The Grand Game and Crucible of War.

P1 5.5 R: Up the slab following small left- and right-facing features to the white scar between The Grand Game and Crucible of War. Traverse right to the Crucible or War fixed anchor. 125'

P2 5.5 PG: Traverse back left to the white scar, then straight up to overhang. Traverse right to the fixed anchor of Kings and Desperate Men. 145'

Still Bill 5.8 PG 285'

This is a continuation of Bill Route [page 458].

Start: The top of Bill Route.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb straight up between a small, left-facing corner on left and a right-angling, right-facing corner on the right, ending on a pedestal. 100'.

P2 5.7+ PG: Up the right side of a right-leaning black streak to beautiful, gold face climbing between Little Finger and Two Bits. This leads to the right side of the prominent flake, then straight up to the fixed anchor on Little Finger. 185'

Gear: Draws plus small gear (e.g., RPs).

Prints of Darkness 5.9 G (5.5 R) 285'

This route is an extension of Pieces of Eight. [Route #18, page 460]

Start: At the P1 anchor of Pieces of Eight.

P1 5.9 G (5.5 R): Up and slightly right (no pro, 5.5) to bulge. Over bulge (bolt) to overlap. Work up and slightly left (crux) to line of bolts that lead to a good ledge and fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.8 G: Straight up to series of overlaps (small cams). Step left above a square block to a slab (bolt) that leads to the intersection with the crack of Two Bits. Up a few feet, then left on smile-shaped rounded ledge. Straight up pure friction past bolts to easier rock where it meets the fixed anchor at the top of Little Finger. 185'

Gear: To 1".

Descent: Rappel the route.

Wright Peak

Note about the start of The Hole: Begin 5' left of the zigzag right-facing corner (not 10' left as the book suggests) and 5' right of a left-facing corner. (Essentially, it begins on the face between the two corners.)

Variation to The Hole [Route #3, page 426].

V1 Lizard Head 5.6 G: On the face below the hole, work up and left to finish on the left side of the cantilevered triangular block.

Lost in the Thicket 5.6 G 40'

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: At the left end of the cliff, 80' to the left of the chimney, at crack that begins at the ground as a seam and widens to hand-size at a horizontal crack 15' up.

P1 5.6 G: Follow the crack to some ledges, step right, then climb another short vertical crack just left of a short left-facing corner. 40'

Spruce Crack 5.7 G 40'

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: At a ledge at waist height that has a 2'-wide gap with a vertical fingercrack that disappears 15' up.

P1 5.7 G: Follow the crack then face climb to a wide horizontal crack. Traverse right and go up a left-facing corner then move right to finish. 40'

Happy Trails to You 5.9 G 45'

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: At a vertical seam with a horn at head height that is at the right end of a waist-high ledge.

P1 5.9 G: Follow the seam then move right to another seam in a right-facing corner. Move up to a bulge that is climbed to a horizontal crack. Finish in a bottomless, left-facing corner. 45'

Gear: Standard rack plus a pink Tricam and a #3 Friend below the crux.

Ranger Danger 5.6 G 50'

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: 50' to the left of the chimney at a crack that begins 5' up and has a 6"-wide section at 8'.

P1 5.6 G: Up the crack to a ledge that is capped by an overhang, continue up the crack (in a right-facing corner) and climb a short chimney to a rounded right-facing corner at the top. 50'

Fogbound 5.7 G 50'

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: At the left end of a long, waist-high ledge, below a left-rising crack that goes to a ledge 20' up (the ledge is shared with Ranger Danger).

P1 5.7 G: Up the crack and go past the ledge to an overhang that is climbed to a wide crack that widens to offwidth near the top. 50'

Gorillas in the Mist 5.8 G 65'

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: Same as Fogbound, at a crack that ends at two horizontal cracks 25' up.

P1 5.8 G: Up the crack to the highest horizontal crack. Move up right along another thin crack, then exit up left at the top. 65'

The Wrong Crack 5.9 PG 65'

[Between routes #1 and #2, page 426]

Hard if you're short.

Start: Same as The Wright Crack, below a thin vertical crack.

P1 5.9 PG: Up the crack to a ceiling 8' up. Pull over the ceiling and go up to a stance below a bulge. Make long reach toward a horizontal crack that is broken by a short vertical crack. Follow ledges up and left, and finish in a right-facing corner that is 7' right of The Wright Crack. 65'

Knock the Cairn Down 5.8+ TR 65'

[Between routes #1 and #2, page 426]

Begin 20' right of The Wright Crack and 15' left of Wright Wrong Chimney at a short left-slanting crack above a sharp right-pointing end of a long narrow ledge. Follow the crack to a steep face that leads to another short crack. Work up past a series of ledges and short faces to the highest part of the cliff.

FA9/08: Ken Nichols

Disappearing Act 5.6 G 65'

[Between routes #3 and #4, page 426]

Start: In the center of the cliff is a large white spot 8' up, with a zigzag 10'-high right-facing corner bordering its left side. Begin at the base of this corner.

P1 5.6 G: Up the corner, or the face to the left, then over a bulge to a stance. Step right and follow a right-rising crack to a prominent horizontal crack. Finish in a short, shallow left-facing corner. 65'

The Wright Stuff 5.11b TR 65'

[Between routes #4 and #5, page 426]

Begin 8' right of B-47 and 5' left of Perilous Journey at the right-hand of two short left-leaning cracks. Climb past the crack to a ledge, then traverse 5' left to within 2' of the right-facing corner of B-47. Work straight up the face past a small overlap to a shallow vertical scoop on the upper part of the cliff, then to the top above the left side of the scoop.

Chapel Pond Slab

New variations to Thanksgiving. [Route #4, page 180]

V2 Dangerous Game 5.7 X: At the start of P2, follow the diagonal crack (of the Regular Route) to its end, then go straight up the face to a bulge. Pull over the bulge (crux), then straight up the whitish face (100' runout, 5.6) until even with the top of the right-leaning corner of P3. Traverse 10' left to belay at the top of the corner. This is a long pitch (200').

V3 Roast Turkey 5.7 X: At the start of P3, go up the wide crack for a few feet, then step left around the corner (crux) onto a blank face. Go straight up the face to belay at a flake just below the birch trees.

New variation to the Empress. [Route #1, pages 176–177. The variations will be renumbered, as this becomes the new V1.]

V1 Leila's Line 5.7 R: Similar to the climbing on Thanksgiving. Ascend V1 of Regular Route to the right-rising dike. Move up and left onto the slab until 5' right of the huge left-facing corner of Empress. Staying close to the corner, work up the slab until the angle eases. Belay as for Empress.

Chapel Pond Gully Cliff: Old Route Area

In the description of Left Hand Route [page 187], a third finish option exists, which is to continue straight up a series of corners (5.5) to the top.

Crane Mountain: Wayout Wall

[Stepping Stone, page 477]

[Bulwark, page 478]

Where's the Sun, Bob Kovachick? 5.6 R 130'

Start: 40' right of Stepping Stone, at a clean strip of slab bounded on each side by dark, dank stripes of moss.

P1 5.6 R: Go up near the left side of the clean slab (runout). At the end of the clean rock, step up and left through moss to belay at a tree. 130'

Descent: Two-rope rappel.

[Sun Dogs, page 478]

Wayout Chimney 5.5 G 95'

Start: At a chimney 200' right of Sun Dogs. This is 20' left of a 35'-tall, detached section of cliff with a cave behind it, and on its left side is a sweeping, right-rising edge.

P1 5.5 G: Chimney up to stacked blocks and climb easily up to the top of the chimney. Go up a wet slab to brushy slopes above. 95'

Descent: Walk up and right 40', then down to a pine tree in an alcove and rappel (same as October Crack).

October Crack 5.8- G 85'

If it wasn't for the stacked death-blocks at mid-height, this would be a decent route.

Start: Right of Wayout Chimney, at a fist–arm crack between Wayout Chimney and a detached 35'-tall mega-flake with a cave behind it and a sweeping, right-rising left edge.

P1 5.8- G: Up the crack to a sloping stance below a block-filled alcove. Chimney up and climb left onto the outside corner to avoid blocks, then go up to another sloping ledge. Climb up to overhang and through it via a crack to a large, sloping ledge on the right, then step up and left onto the top. 85'

Descent: Rappel from pine tree.

Crane Mountain: Beaverview Wall

Requiem Pro Patris 5.8- G 90'

Start: About 250' left of the Dark Speed corner, on a small ledge above a 20'-high, very dirty slab, below a line of pockets along a left-rising seam. High above, a pine tree sweeps up vertically from a 15' horizontal trunk.

P1 5.8- G: Climb face and pockets to a stance below a narrow face with several good, discontinuous vertical cracks. Climb this face via several cracks, passing left of the peculiar pine tree to a good ledge. 90'

Descent: Rappel from trees.

King and I 5.7 G (5.4 R) 140'

Start: 20' up from the low end of a slab, at a 15'-long crack that fades out 20' below a short, steep face. This is near the left edge of a lower-angled, 50'-wide, wetter section of slab, bracketed by large corners on either side. The ground to the right is covered with ferns. This is about 200' left of the Dark Speed corner.

P1 5.7 G (5.4 R): Go up the crack to its end, then climb a slab without protection up and right to the base of the headwall (V1). Climb the headwall stemming vertical cracks, then continue up along the edge of a corner using vertical cracks, past a short, low-angle, blank slab to an overhang. Pull directly through the overhang just left of an arête, up to a large, sloping ledge, then step left to belay at a large pine tree. 140'

Descent: Rappel into the fern glade to climber's right, then scramble down to the base.

V1 5.7 G 100': The runout slab near the bottom can be skipped by climbing up the fern- and bramble-covered slope to a treed stance below a cave in the large inside corner. Move out left on good holds onto the main face, then follow the route as normal.

Drumthwacket 5.7 PG 80'

Start: 50' right of the fern patch below a slab bounded by corners facing each other, at a hand crack 10' left of a chimney.

P1 5.7 PG: Climb the crack to its end. Move up right for gear in another crack (possible to left as well), then up left to yet another vertical crack. Follow this up easier rock to a narrow ledge and walk 8' left to a pine tree. 80'

Beat the Crowd 5.5 PG 80'

You won't have to stand in line for this one. If there were anti-stars, this would warrant a couple.

Start: At a chimney 60' right of the fern patch.

P1 5.5 PG: Climb a chimney past a large, dirty ledge, through an overhang, then up a brush-filled slope until level with pine trees to the left. 80'

[Forgotten Days, page 478]

[Dark Speed , page 478]

[Slim Pickins, page 479]

[Fade and Flee, page 479]

Crane Mountain: Tablerock Crag

This cliff, mentioned on page 480, is reasonably tall and doesn't offer the best protection.

Pinus Strobus 5.8 G 80'

The name is latin for "eastern white pine". The start is unprotected 5.4.

Start: 25' left and up from Tablerock Corner (and the large, flat, table-like boulder that marks this route), below a low-angle 20'-tall slab leading to a ledge with trees on either end.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the unprotected slab to the ledge. Work up to an alcove formed by a left-facing corner and right-leaning crack. (This alcove is right of a large pine tree growing up against the wall.) Go up the alcove and overhang at its apex, then wrestle a sapling to gain the top. 80'

Crane Mountain: Viewpoint Cliff

This cliff is described on page 480 of the guidebook as a "minor cliff". Due to recent activity, this now appears to be a destination cliff. All of the routes can be toproped. All routes begin on steep terrain, but finish on low-angle friction with sparse protection.

Directions: You pass this cliff on the way to Brown Slab. Specifically, after the summit trail crosses the rocky creek bed, head left toward an obvious, spacious ledge called the Viewpoint Ledge. Skirt the eastern (skier's left) edge of the cliff to reach the bottom of the cliff.

You arrive at the cliff at its right end. The easiest routes to identify are Every Creature's Theme, Scenic Slip, and Puzzle. The entire cliff base is less than 100' wide.

Every Creature's Theme 5.5 PG (5.2 R) 130'

[Mentioned on page 480]

Start: At the far left side of the cliff below a left-facing corner that diminishes up higher to a rounded flap.

P1 5.5 PG (5.3 R): (V1, V2) Climb the corner to its end, then friction to the birch and spruce belay tree station on the far left edge of the Viewpoint Ledge. 130'

V1 5.7 TR: Friction up the slab left of the corner.

V2 5.4 G (5.3 R): Begin 8' right of the corner and climb a crack–corner on the right that joins the route 12' up.

Fifty-Foot Fright Fest 5.9+ TR 130'

Begin 5' right of the V2 variation of Every Creature's Theme (or 13' right of the start of Every Creature's Theme), at the lowest point of the slab. A bouldery lunge and mantle to small edges lead to tenuous friction climbing, staying 8' right of Every Creature's Theme. Belay as for Every Creature's Theme.

Slab Happy 5.8 TR 130'

The best exercise in pure friction at the cliff. Begin 8' right of the lowest point on the slab at a left-rising crack that fades 12' up. This is 20' right of Every Creature's Theme. Up the crack to its top, then up the right side of the blunt nose (crux) on continuously tricky friction for thirty feet to easier ground. Belay as for Every Creature's Theme.

The Good Book 5.8 TR 130'

Begin 4' right of the left-rising crack of Slab Happy, below a shallow open book. Climb up to and through the open book, then straight up the friction slab, meeting Scenic Slip just above the corner. Belay same as Every Creature's Theme.

Scenic Slip 5.7 PG 130'

Start: 20' right of the left-rising crack of Slab Happy at a left-rising seam that becomes a sharply-defined, left-facing, left-slanting corner.

P1 5.7 PG: Climb the left-rising seam and left-facing corner to its top, then go straight up to Viewpoint Ledge. Belay as for Every Creature's Theme, or in the tree island on Viewpoint Ledge. 130'

Golden Dreams 5.10 TR 130'

Begin below the orange face 3' right of Scenic Slip at a double-edged flake. Up the flake onto the face. Work up the left edge of the orange rock, then move toward the center of the orange rock. Join Viewpoint Crack just before the overhang above the grass island.

Viewpoint Crack 5.6 PG 130'

Start: 13' right of Scenic Slip, at a left-leaning crack that begins at a small overhang 12' up.

P1 5.6 PG: Delicately gain the crack (crux) which is climbed to its top. Skirt the left edge of a grass island to the left edge of an overhang (Golden Dreams joins here). Break the overhang on the left side on knobs, then go straight up to Viewpoint Ledge. 130'

Seamly Route 5.8 R 110'

Start: At a pair of faint seams (one of which becomes a shallow crack above), 8' right of Viewpoint Crack and 5' left of Blue Streaks.

P1 5.8 R: Follow the seams up the steep wall past the brush island to where it becomes a crack. Continue up the crack through a small overhang in low-angled rock. 110'

Blue Streaks 5.8 R 125'

Start: 5' right of Viewpoint Crack and 7' left of Puzzle, below two blue–black water streaks under a flap.

P1 5.8 R: Initially tricky (and unprotected) moves lead to better holds, then to an undercling at the flap 18' up. Up over the flap to a narrow ledge, then straight up on a dirty, low-angle slab. 125'

Puzzle 5.4 G 120'

[Mentioned on page 480]

The first route on the cliff and, with some cleaning, would be a worthwhile route.

Start: Near the right edge of the cliff (15' right of Blue Streaks) below the right of two parallel, left-slanting seams. The right seam reaches the ground and the left seam begins about 7' up.

P1 5.4 G: Climb the right seam until one can step left to use both seams. Go up to the right end of a small ledge and (V1) continue up and left in the crack. 120'

V1 5.4 X: Step right at the ledge and climb straight up the unprotected slab.

Crane Mountain: Summit Cliffs:Dartmouth Wall

The Dartmouth Wall extends for quite a distance below the ridgeline, with several distinct sections. These routes are far left of the routes on page 482, and lie on the right edge of a rockslide zone, which is just left of the first tall cliff.

Sweeper 5.5 G 90'

Start: At the extreme left end of Dartmouth Wall is a slightly overgrown rockslide area. This route is located in the rockslide area at the left edge of a large wall, just left of a sweeping left-facing corner, below the right side of an overhang at head height that leads to a short, low-angle face.

P1 5.5 G: Climb through the right side of the overhang onto the face and up to a pair of left-rising cracks that break a low-angle ramp. Up the cracks to their top, then scramble up easier rock to the top. 90'

Swept Away 5.8 G 90'

Start: 20' right of Sweeper, just left of a crack that sweeps up along the left side of a left-facing corner.

P1 5.8 G: Make a boulder move to gain a crack above blueberry bushes; follow this to its end. Step left around a bulge then up to a ledge. Continue up the crack in the corner to its top. 90'

Opplevelsen 5.7 G 120'

Currently dirty, but if cleaned, will be one of the better moderate routes on the Summit Cliffs.

Start: On the crack-riddled left flank of a wooded alcove 50' left of Dividing Line.

P1 5.7 G: (V1) Climb up the cracks on the low-angle face left of a small, vegetated, left-facing corner. Scramble onto the top of a boulder and step left around an outside corner into a large left-facing corner. Go up the wide crack in the corner to a stance with a horizontal crack leading out right. Take this onto the main face and follow vertical cracks to a sloping ledge. Continue upward, following a left-slanting, left-facing corner to an overhang. Traverse right to a wide crack and climb this to the top. 120'

V1 Opplevelsen Direct 5.8 G : A better, but harder line than the original one. Climb the vertical crack 10' right of the normal start. Step left at its end to reach a crack breaking the overhang just right of the boulder mentioned on the normal route. Climb the crack up the face directly, meeting the normal route where it traverses back out. Follow as normal to the final overhang and climb this following the cracks that lead directly through it.

Dividing Line 5.9 G 90'

Start: 200' right of the rockslide area of Sweeper, at a slab below a bulge 10' up. A striking handcrack cuts through the steep headwall above the bulge.

P1 5.9 G: Climb the short slab to a crack leading through a bulge, then up the handcrack in the steep headwall to a large sloping ledge. 50'

P2 5.2 G: Scramble up minor 5th class rock to the top. 40'

Descent: Rappel, or descent a 5th class gully to (climber's) right.

Divide By Zero 5.9+ TR 50'

Begin as for Dividing Line. Move up right to gain an offwidth crack. Up the offwidth to the rightmost crack on the headwall above that leads to the sloping ledge of Dividing Line.

Breathe Easy 5.10a G 45'

Start: 40' right of Dividing Line at a left-facing, left-leaning corner with a crack in it. There is a nice rock shelf at the base.

P1 5.10a G: Up the corner (crux) to its top, then traverse right 8' to a crack breaking an overhang. Over this to easier rock to the top section of the cliff. 45'

Crusty 5.6 PG 35'

Currently very dirty, and not worth the thrash.

Start: 10' above and 30' right of the top of Breathe Easy. (To reach this route, thrash up the gully to the left to the top of Breathe Easy, then scramble right to the base of another section of open rock.)

P1 5.6 PG: Climb up the right-hand side of open rock following wide cracks as they go up and left to the top. 35'

Darker Dreams 5.8 R (5.7 X) 65'

One of those things you're not quite certain you can get out of once you get in the middle of it.

Start: 8' right of Brighter Visions, below a left-slanting seam.

P1 5.8 R (5.7 X): Climb the seam and up to the right edge of a large overhang. Climb directly through a notch to a ledge at the base of a steep wall with a crack running from lower right leftward across the face. Up this crack a few feet, then reach right and step around onto the face of the arête. Climb this without protection to the top. 65'

Dartmouth Notch 5.8 PG 100'

You'll need a tetanus booster after climbing this one; not recommended.

Start: Immediately left of Gunga Din Chin at a cluttered gully leading to slabs and steeper rock.

P1 5.8 PG: Wallow through debris to a slab on the right side of the gully. Up this to a wide crack in a corner. Jam loose rocks through a steep bulge (crux) to a stance. Climb through the notch into a hellish tangle of small conifers, choss, and rusty wire onto a sloping dirty ramp between short walls, the right of which has "Dartmouth 1974" carved in it. Escape to the top of the ridge as desired. 100'

Gunga Din Chin 5.10c TR 90'

[Between routes #20 and #21, page 482]

Begin 40' right of Brighter Visions below an overhanging arête with a V-notch 12' up. Climb the arête through the V-notch (5.8) and up using any of several cracks to a stance below the "chin." Up the buttress and out right onto the "chin" (crux), then up cracks and fins to the top.

Crane Mountain: Summit Cliffs: Diagonal Wall

Knitel's Route 5.7 G 100'

[Right of route #22, page 483]

Climbed by Neal Knitel thinking it was Thank You, Cindy.

Start: Same as Paltry Show.

P1 5.7 G: Scramble up narrow ramps on the right to their end below an overhanging prow. Move right into a narrow notch with a wide crack, and follow this up along the right edge of the prow to the top. 100'

Amid the Flood 5.8- R 80'

[Left of route #26, page 483] This is an independent line, not a variation of Carl's Climb. A good line, but with ledge-fall potential.

Start: 6' left of Carl's Climb, at a right-facing, ramp-like corner.

P1 5.8- R: Climb the corner 10' to a stance. Step up into a V-groove on the outside of the corner. At its end, climb up, crossing several slanting cracks along the way, to finish on the last moves of Thank You, Cindy's rightmost end variation.

Variation to Carl's Climb [Route #26, page 483].

V1 5.4 R: Used if the bottom seam of Carl's Climb is wet. Begin 4' right of the normal start (same as Seam Ripper) and climb up good holds along the outside corner for 8', then step left to regain the normal route.

Seam Ripper 5.8- PG 70'

Start: 4' right of Carl's Climb, below a tight V-notch corner that ends 10' up.

P1 5.7 PG: Up the corner and onto the face above. Follow the crack slanting up left to the top of Thank You, Cindy. 70'

Dairy Aire 5.5 PG 70'

[Right of route #26, page 483]

Start: Just right of Seam Ripper at a narrow, small corner, near the outside corner of the face's right edge.

P1 5.5 PG: Up the face right of Seam Ripper's V-notch. Climb up back-and-forth, crossing several left-rising cracks, using several interconnecting vertical cracks, to a short, steep headwall near the top. Make a tricky move right to gain wide cracks that break through to an easy slab. Climb up and left to a fixed anchor. 70'

Cruise Crack 5.5 G 60'

Start: A steep, tree-choked gully lies on the right side of the wall. Begin at the lowest crack that breaches the face along the right edge in this gully.

P1 5.5 G: Follow the crack to where it briefly fades under a large block. Continue up crack as it widens through a steep corner, then eases at the top. 60'

Nervy 5.4 PG 55'

Start: At a crack that pinches off just before reaching the gully, 6' up and right from Cruise Crack.

P1 5.4 PG: Step up to reach the crack, then follow it to the top, clambering over a large block at two-thirds height. 55'

Trouser Flute 5.5 G 40'

Start: At a crack behind a birch tree, 6' below a steep headwall, 6' above and right of Nervy.

P1 5.5 G: Follow the crack through a corner and up easier rock to the top. 40'

Exit Lite 5.5 G 30'

Start: At a wide crack running along a steep headwall onto the main face.

P1 5.5 G: Climb through steep rock and follow the wide crack slanting up left to the top. 30'

Crane Mountain: Summit Cliffs: Left of Ladder

Little Buttress 5.8 G 20'

Hardly worth mentioning, except that it's fun.

Start: 100 yards west of the summit below a steep prow. Scramble down to the ledge below the prow and wrestle conifers to its base.

P1 5.8 G: Up the prow using several of enticing crack lines. 20'

Gnarly 5.4 PG 60'

Start: 30' west of the summit on a ledge below a low-angle face with several open books.

P1 5.4 PG: Climb the open books, leftward at first, then back right to the top.

Pain and Pleasure 5.8 G 100'

[Between routes #27 and #28, page 483]

Start: 5' right of the deep chimney of Folly-Stricken at a huge flake forming an overhang at head height.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the flake up and around the overhang and into a squeeze chimney. Up the chimney as it narrows to offwidth to gain a series of ledges. Belay at the second major ledge. 60'

P1 4th class: Scramble right and up a gully, then through a thicket of tight trees to gain the summit trail. 40'

Crane Mountain: Right of Ladder, Left Buttress

Rock of Ages was previously a TR. It was soloed by Jay Harrison and is now a lead route. Use caution, as the detached pillar will probably not hold gear or withstand an outward pull.

Sweeping up to Glory 5.8 G 45'

Start: 8' right of the summit ladder, just right of the outside corner. This is about 100' left of the Left Buttress proper.

P1 5.8 G: Stem up a short corner onto the face above. Up the left side of the face to an overhang, then move left around the corner, up a crack, then back right above the overhang to the prow, which is followed to the top. 45'

V1 5.7 G: Up the crack using the alcove just right of the ladder.

Stone Cross 5.8 PG 30'

[Between routes #29 and #30, page 484]

Start: In the gully between the two buttresses, below a short corner and below the right end of a long horizontal crack. This is 15' right of Rock of Ages.

P1 5.8 PG: Gain the horizontal crack, then traverse left until under a short small left-facing corner (8' right of the arête). Gain the corner and climb to a ledge, then follow a crack up and left to the top of the buttress. 30'

Crane Mountain: Right of Ladder, Right Buttress

Five Small Stones 5.5 PG 60'

[Left of route #31, page 484]

Start: On a small prow sandwiched between Left Buttress and Right Buttress (but closer to the Cornerstone prow), just up from Toiling Men.

P1 5.5 PG: Step onto the buttress, then go up and left on a slab to reach the arête. Up the arete using holds on both sides. Finish by scrambling up to the top of the gully, then doing a boulder move up a slanting crack. 60'

Variation to Cornerstone [Route #32, page 484].

V2 Stoned in a Crowded Corner 5.10a TR : Leaving off at the same point as V1, climb the face between Lost in the Crowd and Cornerstone using small holds. Reportedly of a high quality with many delicate face moves.

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area

Description: Several new cliffs have been developed on the southeastern aspect of Crane Mountain. The Measles Walls, Southeast Corner Cliff, Isobuttress, and the Black Arches Wall have become increasingly popular and now share a common approach, which is cairned, heavily traveled, and easy to follow. The second printing of Adirondack Rock shows the location of both the Measles Walls and Black Arches Wall, and the location of the approach trail, known as the East Path. For climbers intent on visiting other cliffs in the Southeastern Area—i.e. Slanting Cracks Wall—the directions in Adirondack Rock should be followed.

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group

Aspect: South

Height: 80'

Quality: *

Description: The Measles Wall Group is a cluster of small cliffs situated along the East Path, and the first cliffs you encounter when approaching from the parking area. The Measles Wall is mentioned on page 476 of Adirondack Rock (and on the map on page 481), although no routes were included.

There are several reasons to climb here: the approach is easy (by Crane standards), the routes are easy to find, the cliff base is pleasant, top rope anchors are abundant, and the cliffs are sheltered and south facing. The texture of the rock is unique: the rock feels grainy, like coarse sandstone, and the surface has weathered to form shallow pockets and divots, almost like a bad skin condition, or perhaps a bad case of the measles. Some of the walls are absolutely covered in divots, which makes for challenging route finding. If the angle were much steeper, then many of these faces would be too difficult for most climbers.

The East Path goes along the base of the Lower Measles Wall and then the Upper Measles Wall. Situated above the left end of the Lower Measles Wall is the Above-the-Measles Wall. Top-O-the-Measles Wall is above the right end of the Upper Measles Wall. Below-the-Measles Wall is below the path, out of view, and accessed from the base of the Upper Measles Wall.

Approach: 20 min, moderate

Directions: From the parking area, follow a well-traveled path (not the summit hiking trail) which starts next to the wooden railing (0 hr 0 min). Hike past a designated campsite and through a choke of boulders to the four corners area of Boulderwoods (near the Grand Central boulder) at 5 min. Pass through another choke of boulders, crest a small hill near the junction with the Boulderwoods loop (near the Bloodsport boulder), then descend to a level, fern-covered bench with logged clearings to the right (south). At 12 min follow the path as it turns left (northeast) and goes steeply uphill. Hike uphill and diagonal to the right below several large boulders. At 19 min you'll reach a level section at the left end of the Measles Wall Group, where you pass below the Lower and Upper Measles Walls; the path continues from there to the other cliffs in the Southeastern Area.

Descent: There are a few fixed anchors on both the Upper and Lower Measles Walls. Otherwise these cliffs all have easy walk-offs.

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Above-the-Measles Wall

Above-the-Measles Wall is a steep, clean slab 80' above the East Path where it first levels off at the mossy left end of the Lower Measles Wall. It has the fewest pockmarks of the Measles Walls, making the routes here more typical of the region. To approach, go around the left end of the Lower Measles Wall on the herd path used to access the top of that cliff.

Most of the routes at Above-the-Measles Wall are top ropes on clean rock. There are no fixed anchors.

The Flu 5.5 PG 30'

Start: 15' right of the left end of the cliff, below a horizontal crack 5' up.

P1 5.5 PG: Up the rippled face past two horizontal cracks, then up the low-angle slab to the top. 30'

Trickagnosis 5.7 PG 40'

There are many variations including a 5.10a toproped start that goes straight up to the exit crack.

Start: Same as The Flu.

P1 5.7 PG: Go up a stepped, right-rising flake to a horizontal crack. Traverse right 15', then up a vertical crack to the top. 40'

Mixamotosis 5.9 X 55'

A good toprope route.

Start: At a clean water streak and a 4'-tall bulge at the base of cliff.

P1 5.9 X: Make a boulder move off the ground, then friction up to a discontinuous, left-rising, horizontal crack. Follow the crack leftwards to a blunt arête, and climb this to the top. 55'

Resistant Strain 5.11a TR 55'

Begin at the low-angled, blunt arête on the right side of the cliff. Go up the right side then move to the lower-angled left side and work up to a high bulge with a long left-facing flake. Make a crux move over the bulge and climb easily to the top.

Jungle Rot 5.10c TR 40'

Begin 40' right of Resistant Strain on a separate cliff and below the right side of an arête. Climb flakes and knobs on a steep wall then finish on the arête.

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Lower Measles Wall

This is a long, 50'-tall cliffband, the first cliff you reach on the East Path. It is low and mossy at its left end. All of the routes begin on the path, which makes a nice open area to belay. At the low point on the cliff is a spring, near the start of Hypoxia; from here the terrain climbs gradually past a deep corner (Cracklosis) on the left side of the detached Cracklosis Block. The terrain on the right side of the cliff slopes steeply uphill below a steep, sheer slab that is uniformly covered in shallow pockets and dimples. Several sustained routes ascend this face.

Descent: It is easy to walk off of either end of the cliff and there are many trees from which to anchor. There are fixed anchors on top of the right hand routes.

Hypoxia 5.5 R 30'

On the most pocketed section of the cliff. Often moss-covered.

Start: Immediately right of the spring that flows from below the low point of the cliff.

P1 5.5 R: Up the face to an overlap. Move up and left over the overlap, then up to the top. 30'

Run for Rabies 5.6 R 35'

Start: 8' right of Hypoxia at a left-facing, left-leaning corner.

P1 5.6 R: Up the corner to a right-leaning crack. Step left and go over the crack, then climb to the top. 35'

Cracklosis 5.5 G 55'

A good beginner lead. The variation makes for a good toprope introduction to pocketed face climbing.

Start: 25' right of Hypoxia at an offwidth crack in a left-facing corner, which is the left side of the Cracklosis Block.

P1 5.5 G: (V1) Up the corner to a ledge, then up a thin crack and slab to the top. 55'

VI Scared for Life 5.8 X: Climb the face to the left of the corner and join Cracklosis at the ledge.

Gear: to 4"

Hamburger Face 5.10a TR 50'

Climbs the front of the Cracklosis Block. Go past a ledge at 7' then up a face to join Cracklosis at the top of the block.

Measly Little Corner 5.3 G 45'

Start: The right side of the Cracklosis Block, at a wide crack in a right-facing corner.

P1 5.3 G: Up the corner to a ledge, then finish on Cracklosis: up a thin crack and slab to the top. 45'

Pox 5.10b G 35'

Like the other routes on the face, the difficulties are sustained and insecure.

Start: At the left end of a ground-level overhang.

P1 5.10b G: Go straight up the pocketed face to a fixed anchor. 35'

I Am Lesion 5.10a G 35'

Start: At a 5'-long overhang at ground level, 10' uphill and right of Measly Little Corner.

P1 5.10a G: Begin with tricky moves up shallow pockets and divots, then up the sustained face to the top. 35'

Getcher Breakfast 5.10a G 40'

A well-protected route with a secure start.

Start: Near a horizontal mineral band and a square-cut jug 6' up from the base.

P1 5.10a G: Go up the face, easy at first, then with more challenging route-finding in a sea of shallow divots. After the last bolt, traverse right to the anchors of H1N1. 40'

H1N1 5.8+ G 30'

Start: Below a right-leaning seam 7' up, where the path turns away from the cliff.

P1 5.8+ G: Zigzag right to left on positive holds, then go straight up to a fixed anchor. 30'

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Upper Measles Wall

This is the longest and tallest of the cliffs in the Measles Wall Group. It is located 50' right of the Lower Measles Wall. The left side has a wide roof 25' up (climbed by Short Person's Disease) above a broad ledge which continues across the cliff splitting it into a steep top section and a slabby bottom section. The East Path goes past a cleaned section of pocketed slab with four routes; much like the routes on the right-hand side of the Lower Measles Wall, these routes are sustained for their grade, but thankfully the holds are a bit more positive and the wall isn't as steep, and the climbing is more accessible.

Descent: It is easy to walk around either end of the cliff and there are many trees from which to build anchors. There are fixed anchors for the routes on the right end of the cliff.

Little Fever 5.1 G 35'

Start: 30' uphill of the East Path, below the left end of the long roof at a spruce tree.

P1 5.1 G: Follow a left-leaning crack 20' across an easy slab. Climb a broken, right-leaning crack to the top. 35'

Craterface 5.4 R 45'

Start: Same as Little Fever.

P1 5.4 R: Climb up through a rock notch below a spruce tree, then climb straight up the face above the spruce on excellent pockmarks. Cross a left-rising dirty crack and finish at the high point of the slab. 45'

Short Person's Disease 5.8 G 50'

Start: 40' uphill of the East Path, below the right end of a long roof, at a huge, waist-high, horizontal flake.

P1 5.8 G: Crawl onto the flake and go right under the roof to a handcrack. Follow the crack around the right end of the roof, then step left and climb a slab to the top. 50'

El Muerte Rojo 5.6 G 70'

Start: On the East Path at a 3'-long overlap at ground level, next to a beech tree with a forked trunk.

P1 5.6 G: Climb to a series of vertical pockets 10' up. Follow the pockets to a 10'-long finger and handcrack. At the top of the crack, climb the face with shallow pockets (crux) up to a broad ledge. Step right to finish on Full Moon Fever: go up a short, left-facing corner to an overhang and climb around its right end. Work up to a ledge and then scramble to a large pine tree with a fixed anchor. 70'

Full Moon Fever 5.7 G 70'

Start: On the East Path, 8' right of El Muerte Rojo and 5' left of Cat Scratch Fever.

P1 5.7 G: Start up a sheer wall covered in shallow pockets. Zigzag left-to-right (V1) and gain a right-leaning handcrack. Follow the crack to a ledge. Go up a short, left-facing corner to an overhang and climb around its right end. Work up to a ledge and then scramble to a large pine tree with a fixed anchor shared with El Muerte Rojo. 70'

V1 5.8 R: Instead of going to the crack, move leftward (towards a bolt) toward El Muerte Rojo before reaching the ledge. From the ledge, go straight up the left side of then overhang, then continue directly through it to the high point of the cliff.

Cat Scratch Fever 5.9 G 40'

Start: On the East Path, 6' left of a right-leaning crack that begins 8' up (climbed by Hydrophobia).

P1 5.9 G: Climb easy rock to a stance on a bulge. Move up, and slightly left, on shallow pockets. Diagonal up and right (V1) to a cruxy section below a broad ledge. Climb to the ledge and a spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 40'

V1 5.8 G: Go left to the handcrack of Full Moon Fever.

Hydrophobia 5.3 G 40'

Named for snowmelt in the upper crack during the first ascent.

Start: On the East Path, below a 20'-long, right-leaning crack that begins 8' up.

P1 5.3 G: Go up stepped ledges to the crack and climb to its end. Protect, and then traverse right to another handcrack and follow this to an oak tree with a fixed anchor. 40'

Chilblain 5.6 R 30'

Start: Just right of a left-facing corner that is just right of the level section of the East Path. Look for a dry patch of dimples between two wet, mossy sections of rock.

P1 5.6 R: Climb dimpled rock without pro to the top, coming up 8' right of Hydrophobia. 30'

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Top-O-the-Measles Wall

50' uphill and right of the Upper Measles Wall is this low, lichen-covered slab. This is 80' above the East Path at a position near the turn off to a viewpoint with a fire ring.

Pustulence 5.6 R 40'

Start: At the low point of the slab.

P1 5.6 R: Go up a blunt arête to a left-rising seam. Follow the seam for 15' then go straight to the top. 40'

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Below-the-Measles Wall

Below-the-Measles Wall is positioned below the East Path near the viewpoint with a fire ring. The cliff has a slabby bottom (with the route Social Disease) and an overhanging top.

Directions: Approach from the right end of the Upper Measles Wall. From the East Path near the start of Hydrophobia, walk downhill toward a 20'-tall wall on the left. Continue downhill for 200' and work left to the base of the slab.

Social Disease 5.0 X 60'

Start: At the lowest point on the slab, just left of center.

P1 5.0 X: Climb up and trend left across a broad slab to the top. 60'

Social Climber 5.0 G 50'

Start: Right of the low end of the slab, on a small dirty ledge below a crack leading to a right-facing corner.

P1 5.0 G: Climb corner to a ledge, then up and right to an oak tree belay. 50'

Descent: Walk climber's left along the ledge.

Social Pariah 5.3 R 50'

Start: On the face right of the right-facing corner that divides the slab.

P1 5.3 R: Go up the face, past a left-rising crack and a series of discontinuous left-rising cracks along the way, to the top of the slab. 50'

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 500'

Quality: *

Description: The South Corner Cliffs are a collection of tiered cliffbands situated along the East Path. Although its name suggests that it forms a corner, it does not; rather, these cliffs are situated on the southernmost ridge of Crane Mountain. There are some very good single pitch routes (e.g., Sauron's Bolt of Horror, Oddy's Crack of Horror, Long Play), and Stairway to Heaven is a good multi-pitch, moderate route. Five separate sections are described, four of which are alongside the East Path: Height of Land Wall, Land of Overhangs, TeePee Wall, and Long Play Wall. The fifth section, known as the Upper Walls, is positioned above these walls and consists of a series of slabs and cliffbands that extend for several hundred feet up the mountain. A few pitches are recommended, but mostly the Upper Walls is an area where locals do some technical blueberry picking.

Approach: 28 min, strenuous.

Directions: From the Measles Wall Group, continue on the East Path steeply uphill to a level section with a viewpoint and campfire ring on the right. Continue along the path, now going moderately uphill, to the Height of Land Wall, the leftmost of the South Corner Cliffs, 28 min from the parking area.

The Land of Overhangs is reached moments later, followed by the TeePee Wall at 31 min. A short distance further you reach the Long Play Wall; here the path turns away from the cliff to cross open talus, at 34 min.

Descent: All of the cliffs have fixed rappel anchors. Most of the routes are single pitch, and it is possible to walk off of many of them. Descent from the top of the Upper Walls is a combination of hiking down 2nd class ledges and short rappels.

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Height of Land Wall

More of a landmark than a climbing destination, this cliff is 40' tall and 100' long. It has three routes toward its right end that are very close to the path. The approach to the Upper Walls goes around the left end of this cliff and then uphill for 250'. All three routes share a fixed anchor on a tree.

To Do 5.4 PG 35'

Start: 15' left of the arête that is near the path, at a left-rising ramp below a right-facing corner.

P1 5.4 PG: Climb the corner to an overhang, step right, then up the face to a tree with a fixed anchor. 35'

Ta Da 5.8- R 35'

Start: At a left-rising flake at head height, immediately left of the start of Crane Fang.

P1 5.8- R: Go up the flake then up to a 4'-tall right-facing flake. Step left, then up the face to a tree with a fixed anchor. 35'

Crane Fang 5.7+ R 35'

Start: 5' left of the arête that is near the path, at a 12'-tall fingercrack in a right-facing corner.

P1 5.8- R: Up the fingercrack to its end, then continue past a 4'-tall right-facing flake (the Crane fang) to easier rock and a tree with a fixed anchor. 35'

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Land of Overhangs

Along the East Path, 100' past the Height of Land Wall, is the jutting buttress of Land of Overhangs. The left side of this buttress has a 15'-deep roof 20' up, and to its right is a huge, right-facing, block-filled corner where the buttress meets the main cliff (at Immigrant Song). The left end of the wall slopes steeply uphill and is the location of the zigzag line of Raindance Roof. Right of the buttress is a long roof 30' up with the routes Roofer Madness and Tight for Two. Further right is a clean narrow buttress with a squeeze chimney on its left side and the route Spiral Staircase. Beyond here cliff diminishes in height and quality.

Raindance Roof 5.8 PG 85'

A zigzag route that follows the left edge of the cliff.

Start: Left end of a deep roof, at a fistcrack in a right-facing corner.

P1 5.8 PG: (V1, V2) Go up the fistcrack to the roof and hand traverse left along a handcrack to a ledge. Move up left past another ledge then mantel (crux, tricky gear) onto a tree-covered ledge. Step left onto a steep face and climb enjoyable rock past an overlap to a tree with a fixed anchor. 85'

V1 Split Personality 5.8 PG: Start 10' left at a handcrack below a right-facing corner capped by a ceiling. Go right past the ceiling, then climb directly up the offwidth crack to a sloping ledge.

V2 5.6 G: Begin 50' uphill and left, avoiding the bottom half of the route, and climb a right-leaning crack to the tree-covered ledge.

Tom's Roof Project Project

This work-in-progress goes up a huecoed-face to an arête under the right side of the roof. Make a big reach to a horizontal crack that is above the roof and follow it left to a discontinuous crack that goes to the top.

Roofer Madness 5.10a G (5.8 R) 80'

A second pitch has been cleaned but not led.

Start: 20' right of the huge, block-filled, right-facing corner, below a left-facing, left-leaning corner.

P1 5.10a G (5.8 R): Go up the corner past two pitons to an overlap. Work around the left side of the overlap, then back right (5.8 R) and up a mossy slab to the base of the long roof. Go out a tapering fistcrack to the lip of the roof, pull over the roof, then step left to a left-leaning handcrack. Follow the handcrack to a spruce shrub and go around its right side to a belay at a birch tree. 80'

Tighter than Two 5.11b G (5.4 R) 80'

The roof crack appears to take a #2 Camalot, but it does not.

Start: Same as Roofer Madness.

P1 5.11b G: Traverse right along a foot ledge, then climb over a mossy bulge to a dirty slab (5.4 R). Up the slab to a stance below the right side of the long roof. Reach for a fingercrack that starts half way out the roof and climb to the lip. Pull the lip and follow a tapering fingercrack on a slab to a birch tree (same as Roofer Madness). 80'

Misty Mountain Hop 5.8 G 50'

Start: 5' left of the start of Spiral Staircase at a left-facing flake near the ground.

P1 5.8 G: Reach and mantel (crux) onto a ledge 10' up. Go up a mossy face, past a horizontal crack, then past a ledge to another crack. Finish with a short slab that ends at a tree with a fixed anchor. 50'

Spiral Staircase 5.5 G 50'

Start: On the East Path, at an offwidth crack in a short, left-facing corner.

P1 5.5 G: Follow the crack right past easy steps, then back left where it widens into a deep squeeze chimney. Climb this (crux) to a ledge and a tree with a fixed anchor (same as Misty Mountain Hop). 50'

Stairway to Heaven 5.8 G 245'

Clean, varied and enjoyable climbing for P1 and P2. From the top of P2, the best route to the top of the South Corner Cliffs is to finish on Gray-Harrison.

Start: On the East Path, at the base of the clean, narrow buttress with a chimney on its left side and a birch tree 20' up.

P1 5.7 G: Go up to the first horizontal crack (unprotected, crux), then past a birch tree to the center of the narrow buttress. Go past horizontals to a belay on a ledge at an oak tree with a fixed anchor (same as Misty Mountain Hop). 50'

P2 5.7 G: Climb an S-shaped crack to a small oak tree. Move left to a ramp in an overhanging, right-facing corner. Follow the corner for 8' to a horizontal crack that overhanging left wall of the corner. Work out left using the horizontal crack and a good sidepull to a small ledge. Climb a 5.4 slab to a belay on a tree-covered ledge. 60'

P3 3rd class: Scramble over a short wall above the ledge and walk for 60' up a steep wooded slope to the base of a short cliffband with a right-leaning crack. 70'

P4 5.8 G: Follow the crack then make a long reach to a left-facing flake. Climb a short slab to a belay at a large oak tree on a long ledge. 30'

P5 5.7+ PG: Climb a right-leaning crack to its end then step right to another crack and follow this to a belay at a spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 35'

Gray–Harrison 5.8 PG 535'

When combined with P1 and P2 of Stairway to Heaven, this is the recommended route to the top of the South Corner Cliffs. Although the pitches are short and dirty, the climbing is sustained and the protection is adequate.

Start: Top of P1 of Stairway to Heaven.

P1 5.8 PG: Walk left to a large, dirty, right-facing corner. Climb a short way up this, move left around the corner to a small stance, then climb up a difficult crack to a ledge. Move left to a tree with a fixed anchor. 80'

P2 5.7 PG: Climb a dirty crack past a large, dead pine tree, then up a dirty face to a sloping ledge. Step up along a low-angle slab to a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Follow it to a short, steep headwall, then tunnel past dense trees to a steep wooded ledge. 75'

P3 2nd Class: Walk up and left to a right-rising, brushy ledge. Go right along this ledge, below P5 of Stairway to Heaven, to a low roof above the ledge. 175'

P4 5.7 G: Boulder up a broken, left-facing corner (which is left of the low roof) to a grassy ledge. Climb a steep crack that forks (V1). Follow the right crack past oak trees then scramble left to an oak tree with a forked trunk and a fixed anchor. 80'

P5 5.8- PG: (V2) Walk 10' right to a left-leaning crack and climb it for 30' to an overlap. Traverse right along the overlap to a vertical crack and follow it to a ledge and belay at a small birch tree. 65'

P6 5.8 G: Climb a steep fingercrack up a 12'-tall wall and make a tough move onto a grassy slab. Work up and right to a deep, right-facing corner capped by a roof. Climb up the wall on the left and make an exciting exit onto an easy slab. Tree belay at the top of the South Corner Cliffs. 60'

V1 Gray–Sointio 5.9 PG : Stay left and follow a horizontal crack across a clean steep face then reach to a higher crack and follow it to its end. Reach into a shallow left-leaning crack and follow it (crux) to a vegetated ledge. Scramble up to the oak tree belay on the next ledge.

V2 5.8 G (5.4 R): 5' left of the left-leaning crack is a long downward-pointing flake. Boulder up to the left side of the flake then move up and left to another long flake. Foot traverse left, then climb a face (5.4 R) to an overhanging, right-facing corner. Follow the corner and go over a steep wall (dirty) to the tree belay.

Robin's Rainy Day Route 5.0 G 70'

Not on the Land of Overhangs, but accessed from its right end. Much like the routes in the Upper Wall section, this one is in raw condition.

Start: Scramble up a wooded gully along the right end of the Land of Overhangs for 200' to a right-rising ramp that is above and right of the gully.

P1 5.0 G: Climb the rock ramp to a good ledge. 70'

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: TeePee Wall

This wall is a long cliffband that starts above the right end of Land of the Overhangs. It has short, single pitch routes and nearly all of them start on the East Path. On the left side, the TeePee Wall reaches its highest point at Sauron's Bolt of Horror, a thin vertical crack 70' uphill from the East Path. Most of the climbing is concentrated near a bulging wall with the right-rising rail of Half Man Half Wit. The right end, separated by a block-filled dirt ramp, has a tips crack on a steep slab—the route Oddy's Crack of Horror.

Sauron's Bolt of Horror 5.10c G 60'

Follows a steep and continuous crack on a sheer face.

Start: 70' from the East Path, uphill and left of the start of English Channel. Approach from the left by following the base of the wall uphill to a 4'-wide grass ledge above a terraced belay stance.

P1 5.10c G: Above the ledge is a vertical seam; follow this past the left end of an overlap to stepped ledges. Go up the ledges and continue up the seam as it widens and enters a left-facing corner on a bulging wall. Pull over the wall to a sloping stance in a right-facing corner. Up the corner and an overlap to a fixed anchor on a tree. 60'

English Channel 5.10a R 50'

Start: On the East Path, at the left end of the bulging wall, at a 1"-deep horizontal edge at waist height below a rock scar.

P1 5.10a R: Step up on the ledge, then up past a right-facing flake. Move left to a good horn (only pro in this section), work up and right to a short horizontal crack that turns vertical and becomes a fingercrack. Follow the fingercrack to a large ledge on the left. Step right onto a clean face with a right-facing flake, then go to a tree with a fixed anchor (shared with A Peney for Your Freedom). 50'

Rope Monster 5.11b TR 40'

Climbs the face between English Channel and A Peney for Your Freedom. Go past a horizontal crack 20' up and up the steep slab above it.

A Peney for Your Freedom 5.8+ G 50'

The short, steep crack above the ledge (5.10a) has been climbed on toprope.

Start: On the East Path at the most obvious feature on the cliff—the full-height C-shaped crack. This begins 20' left of a right-rising rail of Half Man, Half Wit.

P1 5.8+ G: Go through a flare to a jug below a thin crack (small cam). Follow the crack as it flares, bends to the right, and goes to a ledge. Follow the crack up and right in a right-leaning corner to a tree. Walk left to a larger tree with a fixed anchor. 50'

Half Man, Half Wit 5.9 R 40'

Questionable rock and protection suggest that this is best climbed on toprope.

Start: On the East Path, at a right-rising rail below the bulging wall.

P1 5.9 R: Follow the rail around the bulging wall and work up parallel vertical seams to an overlap. Step left then go back right to a belay at a tree. 40'

Fool in the Forest 5.7+ G 35'

Start: On the East Path, 20' right of the right-rising rail of Half Man, Half Wit, at the leftmost of three left-leaning cracks.

P1 5.7+ G: Follow the crack past a chockstone in a slot to the right end of an overlap. Belay at a tree (same as Half Man, Half Wit). 35'

Woodland Idiot 5.6 PG 35'

Start: The rightmost of three left-rising vertical cracks before a gully that divides the TeePee Wall in half.

P1 5.6 PG: Climb crack to stance. Step left and climb through blocky chimney to the top. 35'

Oddy's Crack of Horror 5.10b G 60'

Good gear and stances from which to place it.

Start: On the East Path, at the right end of the cliff, at a sheer wall with a tips crack that begins 30' up.

P1 5.10b G: Climb up right-facing flakes to the right end of a horizontal crack. Work up and right past the crack to another horizontal crack. Continue up the tapering-to-tips fingercrack (crux) to a tree with a fixed anchor. 60'

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Long Play Wall

This tall, sheer wall is the rightmost of the South Corner Cliffs. The route Long Play ascends its greatest height. A vegetated gully on the left separates this cliff from the TeePee Wall, and the right end is separated from the Isobuttress by a tree-covered slope. Like many cliffs on Crane Mountain, there are knobs, flakes and rib-like holds hidden beneath a thick carpet of lichen.

Descent: Rappel from a tree with a fixed anchor at the top of Long Play. One rappel can be made with a single 70m rope. Alternatively, make a long rightward rappel to an oak tree with a fixed anchor then make a second rappel to the ground.

Paris–Harrison 5.7 PG 200'

Not technically on the Long Play Wall, but accessed from its left end. Much like the routes in the Upper Wall section, this one is in raw condition.

Start: Hike up the vegetated gully on the left end of the cliff, then traverse the highest ledge for 400'. Go under a chest-sized block wedged between the cliff and a large boulder to the base of a tall wall with a low ceiling on its left end.

P1 5.7 PG: Boulder up to a narrow vegetated ledge. Go left to the right edge of a low ceiling, and follow a bushy vertical crack to a broken ledge. Traverse left 60' to a large, right-facing corner. Up the corner to a moss-choked horizontal crack and follow it right (careful of rope drag), then up to a sloping vegetated ledge. Tree belay. 200'

Induhvidual 5.7 G (5.3 R) 50'

Start: Hike 200' up the vegetated gully on the left end of the cliff to a narrow, treed ledge on the right. Follow this ledge rightwards under tiered roofs. Start to the right of the roofs and below a large right-facing corner.

P1 5.7 G (5.3 R): Climb a dirt cone to the base of a wide crack in the corner with a birch tree 7' up. Go up the wide crack (V1) 12' to a horizontal crack on the right wall. Follow this to an arête then finish on an easy, unprotected slab that ends at a tree-covered ledge at the top of the wall. 50'

V1 Big Man's Bane 5.6 G: Continue up the crack, which widens to a squeeze chimney, to the top.

Willie's Danish Prince 5.9+ PG 110'

It is, after all, his longest play.

Start: At a small, right-facing corner–flake, 20' left of where the trail reaches the cliff. This is 15' left of Long Play. There is a 7'-tall, loose rock pasted to the face just right of the corner–flake; you don't need to touch it, and probably shouldn't.

P1 5.9+ PG: Climb up onto the top of the flake, avoiding the loose rock. Climb up and step right on holds above the block. Make a tenuous move up, then right, then left, then up onto a ledge. Traverse right to a handcrack in a left-facing corner and follow it to a stance below an overhang, at a point where a vertical seam runs a few feet up the face above. Climb through the overhang here, step left, go up, then left, then up again to a good horizontal. Climb up and left on good holds and easier-angled rock to the ledge. 110'

Long Play 5.10a G 110'

Both a low and high crux. The middle second has more spaced protection, but with amazing, positive holds and clean rock.

Start: Where the East Path is closest to the cliff, below a steep, shallow, right-facing corner with a short fingercrack 7' up.

P1 5.10a G: Go up the corner, then make a tough reach to parallel cracks on the right (first crux). Follow the cracks to a broad ledge. Step right, go over a steep wall to a right-rising ramp (sling the flake on the left for only pro) and follow it past a horizontal crack. Go up and left past another horizontal to a long overlap. Above the overlap, work up a steepening wall past a horizontal crack, then crimp up a short face (second crux) to another horizontal crack. Work left past an overhang and finish at a tree with a fixed anchor. 115'

Descent: A 70m rope is required to lower off.

Gear: Doubles to 2".

Moehammed, Larry, & Curly 5.8+ G 110'

Varied climbing separated by ledges.

Start: 30' right of Long Play, below a vertical crack at head-height.

P1 5.8+ G: Make a hard move to gain the crack. Move up to an overhang and reach out left to a long, left-facing flake. Go up the flake and climb a short handcrack to sloping ledges at the base of a left-facing corner. Climb a fingertip flake (small gear) and make a long reach to a horizontal crack that turns vertical and goes over a bulge to a ledge (V1). Work up to an overhang with stacked flakes; pull over this, then go past a jutting block and scramble up and right to a tree belay. 110'

V1 Hail Mary 5.8- PG : Belay at the ledge below the overhang with stacked flakes. Go left along a ledge, then below an overhang, to a point where good holds are followed to a left-rising horizontal crack. Follow the crack, cross Long Play 15' below its headwall crux, and join Induhvidual at a blunt arête on the left end of the cliff. Finish on Induhvidual: climb an easy, unprotected slab that ends at a tree-covered ledge at the top of the wall.

Descent: Walk left 20' to the fixed anchor at the top of Long Play.

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Upper Walls

This collection of lower-angled, short, dirty cliffbands and slabs is situated above the Height of Land Wall, Land of Overhangs, and TeePee Wall. The reason to go here is for the sake of exploration, getting a good view, and gaining experience in climbing dirty routes. None of the routes have been extensively cleaned and should not be attempted in wet conditions. Climbing with a light pack, a wire brush, and comfortable shoes is recommended.

The left side has a long, tall right-facing arch above a low slab—the route McNeill–Harrison. To its right is a short, steep slab with four blueberry-named routes. Further right is the tallest slab, which has the cleanest rock and the best route, Solar Grace.

Descent: Rappel anchors are found on trees at the top of Madame Blueberry and Solar Grace.

Directions: The Upper Walls are not visible from the East Path, and are best approached from the base of the Height of Land Wall. From the East Path, go left along the base of the Height of Land Wall to its left end. Hike steeply uphill and go right of a small slab to reach the base of the Upper Walls near the start of Blueberry Tafone; this is 250' above the left end of the Height of Land Wall. The base of this route is a reference for locating the other routes in this section.

The upper pitches of McNeill-Harrison and Lane-Harrison have not been described. The first pitches of these routes have been described in order to direct you in the right direction if you wish to continue upward.

McNeill–Harrison 5.9 G (5.7 R) 540'

Climbs over a long, right-arching, right-facing wall and continues up broken rock along the left side of the Upper Walls, to a poorly protected pitch (5.7 R) at the top. Only the first pitch is described.

Start: 200' uphill and left of Blueberry Tafone, at the bottom left end of a long, right-arching, right-facing wall that sits above a low-angled slab, at a right-leaning fingercrack on a vertical wall.

P1 5.9 G: Go up the fingercrack then hand traverse left along a ledge to the top of an overhang. Go up a steep slab to the base of a low-angle, right-facing corner. Follow the corner to a horizontal crack (just before the corner becomes shrub-filled) and follow it left to a belay on a slab below the woods. 100'

Blueberry Crumble 5.7- R 50'

Start: 100' uphill and left of Blueberry Tafone, below the center of a steep, 50'-tall slab, at a right-facing flake.

P1 5.7- R: Go up the flake to a stance, then make unprotected moves past right-facing flakes to a wide, left-leaning crack that is followed to a ledge with a fixed anchor on a tree. 50'

Madame Blueberry 5.6 PG 50'

Start: 90' uphill and left of Blueberry Tafone, below a 50'-tall steep slab at a right-leaning crack.

P1 5.6 PG: Go up the crack, then step left and follow a left-leaning, right-facing corner. (V1) Move right across a slab (crux) to a handcrack; go up this to a ledge with a fixed anchor on a tree (shared with Blueberry Crumble). 50'

V1 Blueberry Flapjacks 5.5 PG : Step left, go up a blunt arête, then finish at the ledge with a fixed anchor on a tree.

BLC 5.7 PG 70'

The name stands for Blueberry Ledge Chimney.

Start: 80' uphill and left of Blueberry Tafone, below a short chimney formed by a block perched on the slab.

P1 5.7 PG: Up the chimney (crux), then scramble up grassy ledges. Trend right and finish at a broad tree-covered ledge. 70'

Blueberry Tafone 5.6 PG 140'

This route trends up and left from the lowest point on the slab. A tafone is a pocket formed by the weathering of rock.

Start: At the low point of the Upper Walls, below a diamond-shaped slab with a narrow, right-rising ledge that begins at the ground.

P1 5.6 PG: Follow the ledge for 20' to a left-leaning, zigzag crack. Go up the crack past a left-facing, left-leaning corner to a tall wall. Reach left and go over the wall to a hollow section of rock, then move up left along a horizontal rail to a pointed flake leading to a wide crack. Climb the crack to its end and finish at the broad tree-covered ledge. 140'

Lane–Harrison 5.3 PG 450'

After the initial slab, this route avoids any hint of exposed rock.

Start: At the belay ledge above Blueberry Tafone, below a short slab with a long, overhanging wall above it.

P1 5.3 PG: Go up a short steep slab to the overhanging wall and go around its left end. Climb up a steep, brushy groove past a large spruce tree, over several short slabs, then move up and right of a large roof. Belay at a tree on the left end of a long ledge. 190'

Solar Grace 5.6+ R 90'

Tricky gear placements in shallow, flared cracks. This route can also be reached by walking 100' left of the top of P3 of Stairway to Heaven.

Start: 50' right of the start of Blueberry Tafone, below the right side of a 150'-tall, steep slab with a water worn streak, at a moss-covered slab with a short, clean handcrack that starts 6' up.

P1 5.6+ R: Up the handcrack to a grass-covered ledge below a large, hollow flake. Follow a left-facing corner then go back left across the top of the flake (5.6 R) to the base of a shallow, flared handcrack. Go up the crack, past a horizontal on the left, then step left to the base of a pretty face covered with knobs. Go up the face staying left of a short flared crack. Go past a horizontal and scramble to an oak tree with a fixed anchor. 90'

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Isobuttress

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 150'

Quality: ***

Approach: 35 min, strenuous

Description: The Isobuttress is the tallest and most distinct section of rock along the East Path. Short for "isolated buttress", the 35 min approach certainly adds to the isolation of climbing on Crane Mountain. It is boarded on the left by the Long Play Wall, and on the right by the Amphitheater. The base area is compact and comfortable, and the path conveniently diverges to the nearby sections of the Black Arches Wall, making the Isobuttress a good place to stage a day of climbing.

The Isobuttress has a couple of very good, two-pitch moderate routes and a few good single-pitch routes. Several of the routes are clean with excellent rock, and there's a good mix of climbing including pure friction, an exposed roof near the top, varied crack sizes, and face climbing on knobs and incut edges. At the base of the cliff is a 25'-tall, friction slab with a steep, cracked wall above it. Most of the first pitches end above the steep wall with the second pitches conveniently converging at a summit ledge. The upper pitches are lower angled and make it easy to choose your own adventure and finish as you desire. The bottom left end, near Carpenter and Das, seeps during wet conditions, but the right end (near E-Stim) dries quickly.

Directions: Follow the East Path, past the Measles Walls and South Corner Cliffs (do not walk along the base of the Long Play Wall), to a section of open talus with a view toward the Isobuttress, 34 min from the parking area. Contour a short distance and go across wooded talus to reach the left end of the Isobuttress near the start of Carpenter and Das.

Descent: There is a fixed rappel anchor at the top of the cliff where Carpenter and Das and E-Stim finish. Make an 80' rappel to a fixed anchor on the spruce tree at the top of P1 of Recuperation Boulevard, then a second rappel (40') to the base. In addition, there are rappel anchors on top of Adirondack Rehab and P1 of E-Stim.

Carpenter & Das 5.7+ G 150'

Memorable crack climbing on P2.

Start: Where the East Path reaches the base of the Isobuttress, at a 9'-tall steep wall left of a broad slab.

P1 5.7 G: Go left of the steep wall and up to a long, sloping ledge. Continue left to a prominent right-leaning crack and follow it for 5'. Step left and work up a vertical crack with a suitcase-handle flake to two right-arching cracks. Follow the cracks to a horizontal crack below a sloping ledge 60' up. Move up onto the ledge, then traverse to the left end of the ledge (a 3" cam is helpful to protect the second before the traverse). Belay at a horizontal crack with a vertical crack that rises above it. 70'

P2 5.7+ G: (V1) (V2) Use a 4'-tall flake to the right to gain a vertical crack which widens to hands. Follow the crack to a ledge on the left, then climb easy rock up a right-rising ramp. Go up a thin, vertical crack to a triangular roof (V3); pass this on the right via a right-facing corner with horizontal holds. Continue up the corner to a horizontal crack and follow this left to an arête. Up this easily to a tree-covered ledge with a rappel anchor below the ledge. 80'

V1 5.7 G: Step left and climb 8' up a manky open book. Hand-traverse right along a thin crack to the vertical crack above the belay.

V2 5.6 G: Move right and climb past the 4'-tall flake, then traverse back left to the vertical crack before the triangular roof.

V3 5.5 G: Hand-traverse right under the triangular roof, then move back left to the horizontal crack.

Intensive Care 5.8 R (5.6 X) 140'

A direct route squeezed between Carpenter & Das and Recuperation Boulevard.

Start: Same as Carpenter and Das.

P1 5.8 R (5.6 X): Boulder up to the long, sloping ledge. Step right to the left end of a slab and friction (5.6 X) to the base of a steep wall. Go to a ledge, then up steep rock to the right end of the belay ledge on P1 of Carpenter and Das. Step right, go past an overhang, then up ledges to the right of the P1 anchor of Recuperation Boulevard. Go right and up clean rock to the right of a vegetated strip; continue up steepening rock right of the triangular roof on Carpenter and Das. Climb straight up (5.8 R) past a rappel station to the tree-covered ledge at the top. 120'

Recuperation Boulevard 5.7 G 125'

P1 is popular and is deceptively challenging. There are several toprope variations off of the P1 anchor. A lone bolt located left of P2 is not a part of any route (yet).

Start: Left end of the broad slab at a hollow flake at head height, where the path forks.

P1 5.7 G: (V1) Step up onto the flake and friction left along the left side of the slab. Go up a water-worn fracture to a steep wall. Step right and climb to a ledge under a ceiling. Move left to a left-facing corner; up this (V2) past a long overhang to a belay at a spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 50'

P2 5.5 PG: Go left and up to a vegetated ledge with a rectangular block. Step right and go up a vegetated strip to clean rock. Work up and right to a stance below a right-facing scoop. Go up the scoop past a left-facing flake to a horizontal crack. Step above the crack and up a clean face with good edges (5.5) to a sloping ledge. Continue to the spacious, treed ledge with a fixed anchor located directly below it. 75'

V1 5.10a PG: ????

V2 5.8 PG: Traverse right to a left-facing corner, then up to good holds that are followed left to the spruce tree belay.

Adirondack Rehab 5.10a G (5.7 R) 80'

Start: 20' left of the right end of the Isobuttress, at the center of the slab under a long overhang 20' up.

P1 5.10a G (5.7 R): Friction up the slab (5.8+) to crumbly flakes under the overhang. Reach out past the overhang to an incut rail and pull up (crux) to a horizontal crack with a vertical, thin-hands crack above it. Follow the crack to a good stance below an arête with a steep wall to its left. Trend left across the wall (5.7 R) then up to a fingercrack; go up this to a fixed anchor. 80'

Scaredy Cat 5.11b PG 45'

Start: Below a flared handcrack and left-leaning crack that converge 8' up.

P1 5.11b G: Follow the cracks, then work left and up a slab to the right end of a long overhang. Pull over the overhang to a long horizontal crack (3" cam), then out right to a vertical seam. Reach to a higher horizontal crack and climb easier rock to a belay at an oak tree. 45'

Lane Change 5.9+ G 45'

A short crux on a short route.

Start: Same as Scaredy Cat.

P1 5.9+ G: Up the left-leaning crack, then move right past a horizontal crack to a vertical fingercrack. Follow the fingercrack into opposing corners (crux) to a good ledge on the right. Belay at the oak tree on the left or join P1 of E-Stim to finish at a spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 45'

E-Stim 5.6 G 140'

Start: At a handcrack that becomes an offwidth 20' up, 10' left of the right end of the Isobuttress.

P1 5.6 G: Climb the widening crack on a steepening wall past good flakes and horns on the right to a small tree on a sloping ledge. Move left to a flared handcrack and follow it to a large spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 70'

P2 5.6 G: Traverse left on a ledge and go up to the base of a long, tall, right-facing corner. Follow the corner to the higher of two ledges that cut left across the steep wall. Hand traverse the ledge (5.6) to a stance on an arête and above the fixed anchor of Adirondack Rehab. Work across the face past a pointed, right-facing flake to a right-facing scoop (now joining Recuperation Boulevard). Go up the scoop past a left-facing flake to a horizontal crack. Step above the crack and up a clean face with good edges (5.5) to a sloping ledge. Continue to the spacious, tree-covered ledge with a fixed anchor located directly below it. 70'

Gear: Two 4" cams will adequately protect the offwidth on P1.

Post Op 5.9 G 140'

Start: Right end of the Isobuttress at a right-facing corner that begins 7' up.

P1 5.7+ G: Go up ledges to the corner under an overhang. Up the corner then left to a handcrack and follow this to an easy slab. Go up the slab along the right edge of the cliff to the spruce tree at the top of P1 of E-Stim. Follow dual cracks to a belay at a tree on the right edge of the cliff and below a steep, right-facing corner. 90'

P2 5.9 G: Climb the corner to its top, step left onto a slab, and up past a large pine tree to the top. 50'

Descent: Go left for a short, easy pitch to get to the treed ledge with fixed anchor directly below it.

Full Recovery 5.6 G 165'

A girdle traverse that starts at Post Op and finishes on Carpenter and Das. Starting on E-Stim is a popular option.

Start: Same as Post Op.

P1 5.6 G: Go up ledges to the corner. Traverse left along a horizontal crack to a ledge near the top of the offwidth on E-Stim. Continue left across the ledge above the crux of Lane Change, then along the face and under the 5.7 R section of Adirondack Rehab. Hand traverse a tree-covered ledge to the spruce tree at the top of P1 of Recuperation Boulevard. 75'

P2 5.6 G: Walk left along the belay ledge then up and left onto a higher ledge. Continue left to the vertical handcrack on P2 of Carpenter and Das. Follow Carpenter and Das to the top using V3 to avoid the roof and keep the difficulty at 5.6. 90'

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Black Arches Wall

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 145'

Quality: ****

Approach: 40 min, strenuous

Description: The Black Arches Wall is the last cliff on the East Path and is a steep and complex cliff, with a cliff base that drops quickly from left to right. Terracing of the base of several routes and several spur paths along ledges provide access to the different sections of the cliff. The cliff is divided into two sections—the Amphitheater and Main Face—which are reached from two paths that begin at the base of the Isobuttress.

The Amphitheater is approached from the right end of the Isobuttress where a spur path leaves the East Path, goes below the routes, and ends at a vegetated ledge below Gun Show. This cliff section has three tall, right-facing walls that are capped by tiered roofs. The left wall marks the beginning of the Amphitheater, and it forms an impressive right-leaning corner with stepped roofs that is climbed by Birthday Corner. Between the left and middle right-facing walls is a steep, broad face with the routes Amphitheater Crack, Broken Broom and Pinch an Inch. Further right, the tiered roofs are most impressive and are framed by the rightmost of the right-face walls and the opposing wall of Gun Show. Several chimneys go upward toward the roofs; the one on the right has the route Tribulations. Above the start of Tribulations on the right of the roofs is the striking arête that is climbed by Four Ounces to Freedom.

The Main Face has several distinct buttresses separated by two tall, sheer, right-facing walls. The East Path leads to the base of the leftmost buttress with Torcher and Eating Tripe and Lichen It, with an offwidth crack down low and a long ceiling/roof 70' up. (The buttress also contains Gun Show, but that route is more easily approached from the Amphitheater.) Immediately right is the buttress of Black Arches Arête, and right of this is a tree-covered ledge—the Patio Ledge—that starts 20' up from the path and is accessed by a short, chockstone-filled chimney. Black Arch Arête, Cranium, Parallel Passage and Plumb Line begin from this ledge. Much smaller, but still striking in appearance is the buttress of Plumb Line that stands between the two tall, sheer, right-facing walls. Below the access chimney to the Patio Ledge, the East Path drops steeply below and around a vegetated cliffband to the right side and lowest point of the Main Face; here there is a broad slab with the route Critical Crimps. This is the tallest section with the longest routes, and has twin roofs near its top. Just below these roofs is a belay ledge know as the Attic Ledge. Uphill and right of the slab are broken corners near the start of Second Job and Crossway. The cliff diminishes in height with a last buttress of rock containing the short route Suicidal Sydney.

Directions: From the base of the Isobuttress a spur path goes left (uphill) for one minute to the Amphitheater section. The East Path goes downhill to the left end of the Main Face of Black Arches Wall (39 min from the parking area) near the starts of Torcher and Eating Tripe and Lichen It. Continue right to reach a 20'-tall, chockstone-filled chimney with the approach to Patio Ledge. From here, follow an exposed ledge to the base of the Main Face, or descend steeply below a low vegetated cliff band to reach the lowpoint of the cliff, a slab below a low-angled arête, near the start of Critical Crimps (40 min).

Descent: There are several fixed anchors equipped for rappel with a 60m rope. The exception is Black Arch Arête, which requires a 70m rope. From the top of the cliff, go climbers right and make short rappels down a tree-filled depression right of Crossways.

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Black Arches Wall:Amphitheater

Here I Go Again 5.6 PG 70'

Start: From the right end of the Isobuttress, follow the spur path into the woods for 100' to the 2'-wide, vertical chimney climbed by Amnesia Chasm. Start 3' left of the chimney at a short, left-facing corner.

P1 5.6 PG: Climb the corner to its end, step left and go up an arête to a pedestal that is separated from the main cliff by a wide crack. Tie off the pedestal, step across the crack and climb a steep face (crux) to a sloping, tree-covered ledge. 70'

Amnesia Chasm 5.8 G 75'

Named because, "it's forgettable, once the scars heal."

Start: From the right end of the Isobuttress, follow the spur path into the woods for 100' to the 2'-wide, vertical chimney.

P1 5.8 G: Up the chimney and over a capstone boulder to a large, dirty ledge. Climb an arête on the right to a belay at a spruce tree on the left end of a ledge. 75'

Gear: Cams to 4".

Birthday Corner 5.10a G 140'

Start: 10' left of Amphitheater Crack, at stepped ledges below a right-facing corner.

P1 5.10a 75': Go up to the right-facing corner. Climb to top of corner and step right to a hold on the otherwise blank face, then work up and slightly left to a large roof and overhanging right-facing corner. Climb the corner to an overhang. Move left along the overhang and onto a high face. Belay at a large ledge. 75'

P2 5.7 65': Go up a bulging face to easier terrain and belay at an oak tree.

Descent: Make two rappels with a single rope. Start at a spruce tree with a fixed anchor that is 20' right of the oak tree belay and rappel to the fixed anchors on top of Amphitheater Crack. Make a second rappel to the base of the cliff.

Amphitheater Crack 5.9 G 70'

Super secure climbing with protection possible every inch of the way. Layback or jam? Hmmmm.

Start: 45' right of a block-filled chimney at the bottom of the leftmost, tall, right-facing wall, below a fingercrack that starts 10' up in a short right-facing corner.

P1 5.9 G: Go to the base of the crack and follow it as becomes a left-facing corner. Make a crux move into a scoop, then follow the crack as it angles right and narrows to fingertips. Go past a horizontal crack, move left onto a slab, go past another horizontal, then pick up another right-rising crack and climb this to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 70'

Broken Broom (Wasp War) 5.10a G 75'

Excellent crack down low, and well-protected face moves higher up.

Start: 10' right of Amphitheater Crack at a shallow, left-leaning, right-facing corner with a discontinuous fingercrack.

P1 5.10 G: Go up the fingercrack, then right on good knobs and plates to another left-leaning, right-facing corner. Go up the corner then work up to a left-rising ledge. Move left along the ledge, then face climb up to a horizontal crack. Continue up the face past a second horizontal crack to join Amphitheater Crack just before the ledge with a fixed anchor. 75'

Pinch an Inch 5.10a PG (5.6R) 70'

Start: 4' left of the middle of three tall, right-facing corners, at parallel, pocketed grooves that lean to the left.

P1 5.10a PG: (V1, V2) Start up the rightmost groove and go to the right end of a left-rising ledge (crux). Follow a right-rising crack toward an arête on the right side of the wall. Go up a low-angled face with knobs (5.6R) to a horizontal crack. Continue up the face and follow a right-facing scoop to a ledge with a fixed anchor shared with Amphitheater Crack. 70'

V1 Dexter's Dugout 5.8 PG: Begin 5' right and on a dirt ledge, below a fistcrack in a tall, right-facing corner. Go up the widening crack to a ledge with a perched block. Reach out left to a horizontal fingercrack and follow it to the arête.

V2 Impulse Drive 5.8- G: Begin 15' right at a 10'-tall right-facing corner. Go up the corner that becomes a left-rising ledge. Follow the ledge to the tall, right-facing corner and climb a short, wide-chimney to a prominent ledge on the arête.

Gear: To 3".

[Tribulations, route #34, page 485]

Four Ounces to Freedom 5.12d G 95'

Start: Above the start of Tribulations, at a broad ledge below a sheer wall with an overhanging arête on its left edge.

P1 5.12d G: Start up the wall (5.11a PG) and go to a 2' detached flake that is right of the arête. Follow the sharp, steep arête to it's intersection with tiered roofs on the left. Move right and go up a sheer wall until the angle eases and it is possible to move left to a right-facing corner. Follow the corner (5.10 PG) to a fixed anchor. 95'

Gear: Draws plus a #2 Camalot.

Gun Show 5.10a G 95'

A short, strenuous, excellent fingercrack and the shortest route to the top of the cliff. This route stays sunny longer than the other routes on the wall.

Start: The right end of the Amphitheater at a left-facing, rectangular wall above a vegetated ledge.

P1 5.10a G: Climb the vertical crack past a pod (V1) to a ledge and exit right to a broad ledge with a fixed anchor. (You can walk off left from here.) 35'

P2 5.8 G: Step off of a low block and reach left to a handcrack that begins 6' up a short buttress. Follow the crack, then climb easily to the top of the buttress and belay at trees. 60'

V1 Side Show 5.10b G : Make a long reach right to a horizontal crack. Follow this across the top of the wall and finish on a blunt arête.

Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Black Arches Wall:Main Face

Torcher 5.10b G 105'

Sustained and excellent; one of the better pure-trad routes at the Black Arches Wall. The move over the roof is wild, and getting established above is quite a puzzle.

Start: Same as Eatin' Tripe & Lichen It.

P1 5.10b G: Up the 8"-wide offwidth to a stepped overhang. (You'll need a 5" cam to protect the start. Or, better yet, scramble easily up and right to protect in a horizontal crack, then step back left and climb the offwidth with protection from above.) Go left along the overhang to a left-leaning fingercrack, then up this to a vertical seam. Climb the bulging seam (first crux) to a horizontal crack. Reach to a zigzag crack and follow it rightward to its end. Traverse left 6' and climb up to the long ceiling at an A-frame with a fingercrack that shoots left from its lip. Make a strenuous move over the ceiling (second crux), then make a puzzling step up to a jug. Face climb straight up to a spacious ledge with a fixed anchor. 105'

Descent: Walk left across the ledge and scramble down a chimney to the base of the Amphitheater.

[Eatin' Tripe and Lichen' It, route #35, page 485]

McNeill Project Project

Start 20' left of the Patio Ledge approach chimney, below a block-filled open book. Up the open book, then past two horizontal cracks to a third that is followed right to an hourglass flake below a right-facing overhang. Work up the flake and overhang then onto an orange face with plates and knobs. Face climb to the bulging wall that is left of the crux of Black Arches Arête and join that route at the right-rising crack.

Black Arch Arête 5.10b PG 120'

Impeccable rock, equal parts of dihedral, arête, and face with a committing crux near the top; one of the best single pitch routes in the Adirondacks. The crimpy crux is scary with the risk of a big (but safe) fall; a real mental testpiece.

Start: The left end of the Patio Ledge at the top of the chockstone-filled approach chimney, at a low roof with stacked blocks under it.

P1 5.10b PG: Go up the blocks to the base of a 60' splitter handcrack in a clean dihedral. Climb this until the crack pinches down to finger-size. Reach out right to the sharp arête and pull around to a stance. Move up the right side of the arête past good stances, then directly up the arête to a horizontal crack under an overlap and bulging wall to the left. Step above the overlap and work left across the wall (crux) to a right-rising crack that is followed to a fixed anchor. 120'

Gear: 2 ea 1.5"–3.5"

Descent: Rappel 35m.

Cranium 5.10b PG 95'

Climbs the thin, left-leaning cracks on the overhanging face above the Patio Ledge. Small nuts protect the committing crux.

Start: The right end of the Patio Ledge, 60' right of the top of the chockstone-filled approach chimney, at an oak tree below the striking fingercrack of Plumb Line.

P1 5.10b PG: Start up a left-rising flake past a 2'-tall, detached flake below the slot of Parallel Passage. Work up a left-leaning crack–flake, then move right to a vertical crack. Go up the vertical crack and make a long reach to a horizontal crack that has a thin crack rising left from it. Follow the thin crack until it fades into a seam and make another long reach (crux) to a crack in the overlap above. Pull the overlap, go leftward, step up and climb the right side of a small pillar and finish on Parallel Passage: work up cracks and climb a steep face to fixed anchors. 95'

Parallel Passage 5.10a G 100'

Sustained difficulties with strenuous laybacks. Some parties lower off of the Plumb Line anchor to avoid the serious rope-drag; despite this, the standard finish is recommended.

Start: Same as Cranium and Plumb Line, at the right end of the Patio Ledge.

P1 5.10a G: Go up to a 2'-tall flake that is below a slot with vertical walls. Follow the slot (crux) as it widens into a chimney and the angle eases. Follow a tight handcrack to a pointed overhang, then step out left and go up a left-rising ramp for 20'. Work up cracks and climb a steep face to fixed anchors shared with Cranium. 100'

Gear: To 3", doubles to 1.5".

Plumb Line 5.11a G 80'

A striking fingercrack on an overhanging buttress. Oddly, the crack is the easiest part and the route has both a face-climbing crux and an overhang crux. When rappelling, take precautions to keep the rope out of the crack.

Start: Same as Cranium and Parallel Passage, at the right end of the Patio Ledge.

P1 5.11a G: (V1) Climb up Parallel Passage 12' to a stance on top of a 2'-tall flake. Traverse right on jugs to the fingercrack. Follow the crack to its end and make a few face moves to a horizontal crack under the overhang. Pull the overhang and pick up the emerging crack that is climbed to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 80'

V1 Plumb Line Direct 5.11c G : Go directly up the tips cracks to join the normal route. Good protection can be obtained (micro cams and RPs).

Gear: To 3", doubles to 0.75".

Critical Crimps 5.10a G 145'

One of the first routes to tap the face-climbing potential on Crane Mountain.

Start: At the low point on the cliff, below a slab with a bulging wall that starts 12' up.

P1 5.10a G: (V1) Go up the slab and climb the right side of the bulging wall (1st crux), then move left and work up a blunt, low-angle arête. Begin up a steepening orange face, go past a thin horizontal crack, and decipher a crux sequence of crimps that ends at a wide horizontal crack under a ceiling. Haul out the ceiling and up a short, left-facing corner to a belay at a fixed anchor on the Attic Ledge. 110'

P2 5.8 G: Step left and move around the left side of twin roofs to the top of the cliff. 35'

V1 Jay's Affliction 5.10a TR: follows a vertical dike on the left side of the slab then up the left side of the bulging wall to the blunt, low-angled arête.

Gear: Cams to 2"

Descent: Rappel from the Attic Ledge is possible with a 60m rope.

Second Job 5.8 G 145'

A low crux leads to an enjoyable handcrack.

Start: 30' uphill and right of Critical Crimps, below a left-leaning ramp.

P1 5.8 G: Go up the ramp to the base of a left-facing corner. Work up the corner and around the right end of a ceiling (crux) to a stance below a right-rising handcrack. Follow the crack that turns vertical, and enters a deep, left-facing corner under twin roofs. Move up and left to the Attic Ledge and belay from fixed anchors. 100'

P2 5.8 G: Traverse right to the offwidth crack that splits the twin roofs and ascend the crack to the top of the cliff. 45'

V1 5.9+ TR: The flake to the right of the crux left-facing corner has been top roped.

Crossway 5.6 G 145'

Exciting traverse on P2. Can be used to access the fixed anchors on Critical Crimps and Plumb Line.

Start: Immediately uphill and right of Second Job, below opposing corners.

P1 5.6 G: Up the corner on the right, then follow steps up and left to join Second Job at the vertical handcrack that is followed to the fixed anchor on the Attic Ledge. 110'

P2 5.6 G: From the left end of the Attic Ledge, hand traverse left along a horizontal crack to a chimney (V1) that is followed up to the top. 35'

V1 5.6 G: Continue left, pass under a hollow (spooky) overhang, and go left to lower-angled rock. Belay at the fixed anchor on top of Plumb Line.

Tilly's Trench 5.3 G 30'

From the top of this route, it is possible to climb vegetated, wet 5.3 to reach the Attic anchors.

Start: 20' right of Crossway, at a wide handcrack on the left side of a 30'-tall buttress.

P1 5.3 G: Climb the crack to the top of the buttress and a belay at an oak tree. 30'

Suicidal Sidney 5.9- G 30'

Start: 60' right of Crossway, on the left side of the rightmost buttress, below a vertical offwidth crack.

P1 5.9- G: Climb offwidth crack to a ledge on top of the buttress. 30'

Pitchoff Ridge Trail Domes: Upper Dome

Don't Kill The Client 5.7 G 150'

[Right of route #2, page 289]

The first ascent attempted the right-leaning roof crack, but, due to a dangerous block above the belay, opted for the easier exit. Named for the #1 rule in guiding.

Start: The top of the cliff on its right side is dominated by large roofs broken by a lone right-leaning crack. Begin at a slab with a lone birch 20' up, and just right of a right-leaning, tree-filled gully that leads the right-leaning roof crack. This is 200' uphill and right of N.O.C. Route.

P1 5.6 PG: Climb the slab past the birch tree, staying right of the tree-filled depression, to a ledge below the large roofs. 90'

P2 5.7 G: Traverse 25' right to the right end of the ledge and climb a crack in a left-facing corner to a ledge with a tree. Step right and scramble to the trees. 60'

Chapel Pond Gully Cliff

Shiling Was Willing 5.7 PG (5.4 R) 390'

[Between routes #27 and 28, page 193]

Start: Same as Silent Spring.

P1 5.5 G: Same as Silent Spring: Climb the flakes and cracks on the arête past the right end of the wavelike bulges. After the second bulge, angle right on a low-angle slab to the top. Belay from trees below a crack in a left-facing corner in the slab above. 50'

P2 5.4 PG: Follow the corner of Beam Me Up to it's top then trend right to a belay at the left end of a cedar island. (This is the left end of the same cedar island in which Squirrelless Journey begins.) 120'

P3 5.6 PG: Make a right-rising traverse on good face holds (5.4 R) to a left-facing left-leaning corner. Move up through lichens and follow the left-facing corner and flakes to a belay at a cedar. 140'

P4 5.7 PG: Climb straight up on good rock for about 20', then up a broken crack (#2 Friend) to a small ledge. Move right and up on more loose rock to belay at cedars above (same topout as for Squirrelless Journey). 80'

Fly Brook Valley

The Fly Brook Valley is a large hidden valley north of NY 9N and west of Lake George, in the same neighborhood as Tongue Mountain and Barton High Cliff. The cliffs are just beginning to be explored with only a few rock routes and some ice routes; the vast amount of rock remains mostly unexplored and undeveloped. There are several cliffs along the northwest flanks of Catamount Mountain—Catamount Main Face 18T 615244 4837544, The Grotto 18T 615176 4838516, and Catamount North 18T 615940 4838960. Other cliffs include Fly Brook Crag 18T 615152 4839244, Middle Mountain West Face 18T 615952 4839656, and Wardsboro Cliff 18T 614588 4839988. The rock quality varies from bullet-hard to fractured and loose.

The area is heavily used by hunters during all hunting seasons. Despite this, the valley has a wilderness feel: the approach is long; there are thick fields of stinging nettles that guard the approach to Catamount Mountain and along the base of North Wardsboro Cliff; Coyotes have been heard while climbing, and, while no snakes have been reported, there are known rattlesnake dens within a few miles of the cliffs.

Directions: From Northway (I-87) Exit 24, drive 5.0 miles east on the Bolton Landing–Riverbank Road to its end, where it makes a T with NY 9N. Turn left onto NY 9N and drive north 6.0 miles to Padanarum Road (0.0 miles). Turn left onto Padanarum Road, then right at 1.8 miles onto Wardsboro Road / Fly Brook Road. Park at a turnout on the right at 3.4 miles, just before the Wardsboro Cemetery and across from a red cabin 18T 613100 4837732.

Fly Brook Valley: Wardsboro Cliff

Location: Between Brant Lake and Lake George, accessed from Northway Exit 24 and NY 9N

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 120'

Quality:

Approach: 45 min

Summary: Wilderness cliff with several crack routes and good potential for more

Description: Wardsboro Cliff has seen the most attention in the Fly Brook Valley. The southeast-facing cliff is divided into two sections, the South Crag and the North Crag, separated by a broad, steep gully. A good landmark for orientation is the Kenneth Palmer Lookout, identified by a memorial plaque bearing this name mounted on the side of a rock at the lookout, located at right end of South Crag, and on top of the route Padanarum Crack. From this lookout you can see across the valley to Middle Mountain, Fly Brook Crag, and the various cliffs on Catamount Mountain.

Descent: Scramble down the broad gully that separates the North and South Crags (just north of Palmer Lookout), or rappel with two ropes from large pine trees near the lookout.

Directions: From the Fly Brook Valley parking, hike north along the road. At 0.6 mile there is a green house on the left and the road becomes a 4WD track. At 1.3 miles there is a hunting cabin on the right; 90 yards beyond is a cairn and yellow blazes on trees marking a state land boundary. Continue on the track another 100 yards past the state boundary, then turn right on a bearing of 100°, following the contour of the terrain. Cross a drainage area and continue contouring to the cliff, the South Crag, which will be on your left 18T 614588 4839988. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the cliff once you leave the 4WD track.

At the right end of South Crag is the steep gully used for descent and to reach Palmer Lookout. To reach the North Crag, make your way to the flat ground below the talus of the South Crag, then walk north until you can see the cliff on the left. The left end of the North Crag is identified by a large buttress with a huge roof 20' up, the location of Bowling for Simon.

Padanarum Crack 5.9+ G 120'

Start: Walk right along the base of South Crag to a narrow ramp that drops you at the right end of the cliff near the base of this route. Begin at a steep 20'-tall dirty wall.

P1 5.9+ G: Up 10' to a small ramp. Work right on the ramp, then back left to ledges. Up the ledges, then step right to a protruding block. Face climb past two bolts (crux) to a right-facing corner. Climb a crack in the corner for 40' to where it forks (V1), then follow the wide left fork to a juggy, Gunks-like finish. 120'

V1 5.10 A0: Follow the direct fingercrack to the top.

Bowling for Simon 5.7 PG 50'

Moderate climbing on loose rock.

Start: Near the left end of North Crag is a large buttress with a roof 20' up. Begin at a left-facing corner on the left side of the roof, behind a detached block.

P1 5.7 PG: Up the inside corner, then up the blocky face on the right to a large tree on a forested ledge. 50'

P8tience 5.8 G (5.2 R) 90'

Unique iron-rich rock with solution pockets.

Start: Near the center of North Crag is a large orange overhanging section of rock. At the right end of the overhanging section are two 80° faces. Begin on the left of the two faces below a large figure-8 worn into the rock by natural weathering 25' up.

P1 5.8 G (5.2 R): Up the easy and fun face with the figure-8 to an overhang. Climb straight through the roof via a crack on the right edge of a large block, up 15' to a ledge, then head left over loose but easy terrain to a fixed anchor on an oak tree. 90'

Walking Fern Face 5.8 G 50'

Good face climbing with several variations. Keep an eye out for the small fern with arrow-shaped leaves at 2/3 height (a walking fern), which is beautiful and rare.

Start: Right of P8tience is another 80° face bordered on the right by a corner and roof system that arches over the face. Begin below the center of this face.

P1 5.8 G: Up the face using interesting solution pockets to an overhang, over this, then up the face to a fixed anchor. 50'

Fly Brook Valley: Catamount Main Face

A long approach including a sea of stinging nettles brings one to Catamount Main Face. From the parking, head east into the Fly Brook Valley, then northeast staying on the high ground above the brook. Eventually you cross the brook 18T 614344 4838204, then head southeast and uphill to the cliff 18T 615244 4837544 reached at 1 hr 15 min. The only reported rock route is Nettle Crack, but there's a lot of potential here. Watch for poison ivy.

Nettle Crack 5.8 A0 G 70'

An incomplete route with no second pitch.

Start: At a right-facing corner 50 yards up and left of the cliff's main left-facing corner and roof system.

P1 5.8 A0 G: Up the right-facing corner to a beautiful right-arching fingercrack hidden from below. 70'

Lower Washbowl: Stone Face Rib

Made In The Shade 5.7 G 45'

A pleasant route; on a hot day, you'll be made in the shade.

Start: In the descent gully between the Spider's Web and Stone Face Rib, 150' up from the bottom of the Stone Face Rib on the west-facing wall.

P1 5.7 G: Climb left-trending handcrack to thin crack, then over a bulge to a tree covered ledge. 45'

Nothing We Bailed 5.8 TR 40'

This climbs the obvious fistcrack 20' right of Made In The Shade.

Lower Washbowl: Eighth Wall

Hoar–Horovitz 5.10a PG 75'

Climbs the crack just left of the headwall top pitch of The Fang, and could make a logical extension to Land of the Lost. It's steep, sometimes puzzling, and has excellent exposure, positions, and scenery.

Start: At a tree ledge on top of P2 of The Fang or Land of the Lost, at a vertical crack broken at mid-height by a horizontal ledge, 15' left of P3 of The Fang. (Given the current conditions of these other routes, it's perhaps easier to rappel in from above. To do so, go up the decent trail on the left side of the Upper Washbowl until it turns sharp right, and just after a large boulder. Turn left and head slightly uphill to the height of land. Go right, then back left to reach the open summit ledges.)

P1 5.10a PG: Climb the thin crack system through some strenuous moves to the horizontal ledge (small gear; be mindful of falling onto the spiky dead cedar tree). Continue up the final corner to the open summit ledges on top of the Eighth Wall.

Pantless Phenom 5.7 G 220'

Start: At a large, block-filled, right-facing corner up and to the right of the lower terrace that holds the routes The Fang and Land of the Lost, and 10' left of PR.

P1 5.0 G: Scramble up the block-filled corner to the broad, dirt- and tree-covered ledge and a belay at a large aspen. 30'

P2 5.7 G: Walk left along the dirty ledge to an 8'-high vertical crack that ends at a small ledge. Move to the right end of the ledge at a small left-facing corner, then climb the corner and adjacent fingercrack until it is possible to step right onto another ledge system. Continue straight through this small ledge system to a large offwidth, which is climbed to its top at a broad, flat ledge. From here, climb either the crack just above (or the next crack to the right shared with PR) to a small, treed ledge with a fixed anchor on a cedar. 130'

P3 5.6 G: Head left to a right-facing corner–crack. Follow the crack until it fades just below a small evergreen tree. Head up and left to the summit ledges. 60'

Descent: Walk straight back from the cliff, then down and slightly right to reach the Upper Washbowl descent trail after about 1 minute. Alternatively, rappel with 2 ropes to reach the ground at the base of PR.

PR 5.9+ G 100'

An excellent route featuring 100 feet of steep, sustained crack climbing with solid rock, exposed positions, and spectacular scenery. This route is mentioned on page 233 of Adirondack Rock: "A good cleaning here will undoubtedly yield stellar crack routes, especially the unclimbed line on the right side of the wall (which has some unexplained fixed gear)." The name is short for "Paying Respects", as it was climbed the day following Dennis Murphy's tragic accident.

Start: 10' right of the large, block-filled, right-facing corner used to access the aspen ledge, behind a small hemlock and a small cedar, at a long fingercrack.

P1 5.9+ G: Follow the fingercrack through some thin sections to a set of jugs and a good rest 30' up. Continue up the crack to a left-facing corner just left of an impressive tooth of rock. Climb the corner to a small ceiling at it's top, then step right to the parallel crack system. Up this crack for 15' to a horizontal break, then step back to the left-hand crack to an intimidating (but not overly difficult) offwidth. Go up the offwidth to a large ledge with a gigantic, gaping crack at its back, then climb the handcrack directly across the ledge past a perched boulder to a cedar tree with a fixed anchor. 100'

Spanky's Wall: Nestle Wall

No Regrets Coyote 5.8- G (5.4 R) 115'

Named for a Joni Mitchell song, and the fact that the first ascent party found the remains of a Coyote near the base of the route.

Start: Walk past the boulder close to the cliff [the boulder described in the "Directions" to the Nestle Wall on page 156] and around the toe of the cliff towards the wet face (with the winter route Sheik of the Burning Sands) and look for a leaning boulder split vertically down the middle by a crack. Begin below this crack on top of a small slanting boulder below a ledge 6' up.

P1 5.8- G (5.4 R): (V1) Gain the mossy ledges below the crack. Up the crack (tight hands and fists) to the top of the leaning boulder. (V2) Stem up a large, offwidth, left-facing corner with good faceholds on the left wall (5.4 R, 4" cam helpful) to a large belay ledge. (Or scramble up 20' to a scenic belay with views of the King Wall.) 115'

V1 5.7 G: Begin 5' left of the normal start at a dirty left-facing corner with two trees growing down low. Up the corner to gain the splitter crack of the normal route.

V2 5.4 G: Better protected than the original finish. Traverse up and right to a fingercrack, then follow this using plentiful holds on the face to the right. Belay at a large birch on top of the face.

Descent: Rappel from a pine tree on the ledge with a single 60' rope.

Morsel Line 5.8 PG 75'

Start: Near the right end of the wall, at a small nose in front of a slanting boulder, below a short ramp 3' left of Nescafé.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb to the ramp, then up flakes and cracks running up a steep wall (crux) on the left that follow a short, left-facing corner. At its top, (V1) step left to a rounded, left-facing corner and up it to the outside of a prow. 75'

V1 5.7 G: Traverse 4' right to a thin vertical crack, follow it to its end, then step left back onto the main line.

Nescafé 5.5 PG (5.3 R) 230'

Start: At the base of the boulder close to the cliff [the boulder described in the "Directions" to the Nestle Wall on page 156].

P1 5.5 PG (5.3 R): Up an obvious crack onto a right-rising ramp. Go up into a shallow V-corner and into a flaring crack, then step up and right to a small ledge to find some pro before a run out slab. Step back left and up past a sill and a couple of nice pockets. 100'

P2 5.5 G: Climb a handcrack up and then step left onto the steep slab with a dirty crack in a corner; climb this to its top (beware of the loose block), then wander up over a series of smaller walls and ledges to the top. 130'

Chock Full O' Nuts 5.6 PG 230'

Start: 30' right of Nescafé at the right side of the cliff in a dirty corner.

P1 5.6 PG: (V1) Climb up the dirty corner, step left onto the slab, and climb this to a small ledge. Make a few slab moves (crux) to reach a crack in a left-facing corner, and follow this to its top. 100'

P2 5.5 G: Up a crack in a small headwall, then wander up over the series of shorter walls and ledges to the top of the cliff. 130'

V1 5.9 TR: Begin 8' left of the normal start and climb a face to a right-rising rail, then move up and left around a small overhang via a rounded, small, left-facing corner to join the standard route.

Lost T Cliff

Location: South of Piseco Lake, accessed from NY 10

Aspect: West

Height: 80'

Quality: ****

Description: Tucked in the forest above Chub Lake near the summit of Chub Lake Mountain is yet another gem. This 300'-wide wall stands between 40' and 80', is tilted at a comfortable 80º, and is laced with cracks. The rock is especially coarse and textured with excellent friction properties; hence, there is a good mixture of face climbs and crack routes, many of which are equipped with lower-off anchors. The base of the cliff rises gently uphill to the left and is pleasant, open and airy.

The cliff is located across the road from Good Luck and has easy access—the straight line distance from the road is less than 2000'. With the short approach, the cliff is sure to be popular. To reach the top, walk around the left end of the cliff.

Many of the routes are unnamed and are thus given temporary names.

The cliff was developed in a style similar to Shanty Cliff, meaning a mix of trad and fixed gear (no sport routes here, though), well-cleaned routes, and good access for groups. Be aware that the first bolts are high and have been designed to be clipped with a stick.

Approach: 20 minutes, easy

Directions: Park as for Lost Hunter's Cliff 18T 538082 4789285 [page 556] and follow the path to Chub Lake 18T 538184 4789652. About 100' before you get to Chub Lake, turn right and follow a path (pink flagging) on the right that curves around the lake to the north and begins to climb. 100' after crossing a small brook, the path splits (going straight leads to Lost Hunter's Cliff, red flagging); turn right steeply uphill and follow a path (more pink flagging) through open forest to the crest of a ridge. The Annex sits below the trail here. From here the trail levels and wanders another few minutes to the cliff 18T 538748 4789866.

Keegans 5.8 5.8+ G 40'

Not a misprint, the name is Keegans 5.8 and it happens to be rated 5.8.

Start: At the left and uphill end of the wall, 20' right of a full-height chimney (the bottom half of which is stuffed with a fin of rock protruding 1' from the cliff) and 10' left of a large pine tree growing on top of a sunken boulder.

P1 5.8+ G: Up the face (3 bolts) to a good horizontal crack, then up more face to a pine tree. 40'

Expiration 66 5.9+ G 40'

Trickier than it looks as good stances are scarce. A few small cams are helpful.

Start: 15' right of Keegans 5.8 and 5' right of a large pine tree growing on top of a sunken boulder, below a seam and crack that runs the full height of the cliff.

P1 5.9+ G: A small cam protects the moves to the first bolt. Up the seam (bolt) past a hand slot. Continue up the seam (bolt) and crack to the top. 40'

CB Love Grannys 5.12a PG 45'

Not much to stand on; an exercise in smearing on a steep face. Requires small gear.

Start: 15' right of Expiration 66 and 12' left of the shallow left-facing left-arching corner that marks the start of Ten B, at a face with a left-slanting seam that begins 8' up.

P1 5.12a PG: Up the face on good holds to gain the left-leaning seam. Up the seam (bolt) to its top, then switch left to another left-leaning seam; follow this past a bolt to the top. 45'

Ten B 5.11a G 45'

Clean rock with good moves and a short crux. The name does not align with the rating, and, yes, there is a story behind it.

Start: 50' downhill and right of a full-height chimney (the bottom half of which is stuffed with a fin of rock protruding 1' from the cliff) at a shallow left-facing left-arching corner.

P1 5.11a G: Move up and right on staircase holds to gain the left-facing corner. Up the corner as it arches left into an overlap. Traverse left in a horizontal crack below the overlap to its left end, then up to parallel seams in the face. Up the seams past a horizontal crack (crux), then up the short face to the top. 45'

Freckles and No Lipstick 5.9 G 50'

An excellent crack climb.

Start: 5' downhill and right of the shallow left-facing left-arching corner of Ten B and 45' left of the large left-facing corner of The Keyhole, below a face with seams and a bolt 12' up.

P1 5.9 G: A small nut protects the opening moves to an excellent crack (unnecessary bolt). Up the face with seams to a crack and flared pod, then up more crack past a second bolt to a fixed anchor at the top. 50'

Spelunking Midget 5.10b G 45'

Start: In a shallow groove.

P1 5.10b G: Up the groove, then big holds to the first bolt. After the second bolt, there are numerous stances with great gear (small cams). 45'

The Keyhole 5.11a PG 55'

Start: Centered on the cliff (and just left of the highest section of cliff) is a stepped, 3'-deep, 40'-tall, left-facing corner. Begin 10' left of the corner at a brown mossy face below a bolt.

P1 5.11a PG: (V1) Up the face to a horizontal crack (bolt, scary clip), then straight up a thin crack (bolts) to an overhang below a right-facing corner. Step left and go over the overhang, then up and left in a good crack past horizontals to a fixed anchor on the left. 55'

V1 5.9 G: Begin 10' right in the left-facing corner. Step left onto the face climb a mossy, shallow, right-facing, left-leaning ramp to gain the thin crack. This reduces the overall grade to 5.10c G.

Little Kisses 5.9 G 80'

This is the first of three parallel climbs on the tallest section of the cliff. This crack is a contender for the best 5.9 in the southern section of the park. The crack is fingers and tight hands with many hidden horizontals for rests.

Start: At the tallest section of cliff, 30' downhill and right of the stepped left-facing corner that marks the start of The Keyhole, and 8' right of a 12'-high right-facing corner, below a seam in chocolate-colored rock.

P1 5.9 G: Up the seam to a high bolt (or stick-clip), then up the beautiful crack to its top. Move left and finish in a short handcrack to a fixed anchor on the right (shared with Parthenope). 80'

Gear: To 2", with doubles in the finger size range.

Parthenope 5.11d PG 80'

Start: 4' right of Little Kisses, exactly between Little Kisses and Five Star Crack, at the left end of a blocky ledge 2' up.

P1 5.11d PG: Up the face to the first bolt (5.9, stick-clip). Continue up a thin seam in the face (small gear) to a bolt, then up the face (crux) to a good horizontal. A thin crack on the right (very close to Five Star Crack) protects more face climbing to another horizontal, then hard moves past a final horizontal (5.11b) leads to a fixed anchor shared with Little Kisses. 80'

Gear: Small cams, nuts, draws.

Five Star Crack 5.8 G 70'

Sustained at the grade with good moves and excellent protection.

Start: The right-hand crack at the tallest section of cliff, 3' left of a large, broken birch tree 4' up.

P1 5.8 G: Go up to a small overlap to gain the left-leaning crack. Up the crack past many horizontals to a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: To 2".

Wide Crack 5.7 G 60'

Somewhat marred by a chossy finish.

Start: 12' right of Five Star Crack below a chossy overhang 5' up, above which is a crack that runs to the top of the cliff.

P1 5.7 G: Layback through the initial overhang to gain the crack which is climbed to the top. 60'

The Dike 5.8 PG 55'

Start: 15' right of Wide Crack at a dike that begins above an overhang 8' up.

P1 5.8 PG: Move 8' left and negotiate the roof to gain the face above. Go up to a horizontal crack, then move right to the dike and follow it to its top. Go past a tree, then up a deep, flared crack to the top. 55'

LT_105 5.8 G 45'

Start: Near the right end of the wall is a boulder pile above which is a right-facing corner capped by a roof. Begin at a large birch tree at the top of a left-rising ramp below the right-facing corner.

P1 5.8 G: Up the wide crack in the right-facing corner past the left edge of the roof to a fixed anchor shared with Flavor of the Day. 45'

Flavor of the Day 5.12b G 45'

Start: Same start as LT_105.

P1 5.12b G: Stick-clip the first bolt, move right to a jug below the roof, then go directly over the roof (heel hook or some other innovative technique required) onto the face. Up the face to an overlap, over this, then follow the left side of an arête to a fixed anchor shared with LT_105.

LT_107 5.9 R 45'

A nice finish crack, but a dangerous move below.

Start: On the right side of the boulder pile above which is the ramp that leads to Flavor of the Day, and 40' right of that route, at blocky chaotic terrain with a cleaned strip through moss below a ledge 10' up.

P1 5.9 R: Move up to the ledge, then up a crack to another ledge. Move left past a small tree and gain a seam and crack that snakes up a clean face. At the top of the crack, go up to a horizontal crack, then up the short face (crux) to the top. 45'

The Annex

Location: South of Piseco Lake, accessed from NY 10

Aspect: West

Height: 50'

Quality: *

Description: A smaller version of Lost T Cliff (and probably an extension of that cliff), this 150'-wide wall has several crack and face routes.

On the left end of the cliff is a large left-facing corner capped by a roof that marks the start of a couple routes. The center of the cliff has a jagged right-arching flake and has been cleaned and toproped, but no routes yet exist here.

Like its parent, Lost T, the routes here are designed to be stick-clipped.

Directions: The approach to Lost T Cliff traverses within 20' of the top of another cliff (you can see the opening in the forest on your left when the trail reaches the ridge). Walk [skiers] left along the top of the cliff to a short down scramble to reach the base of the cliff, then turn right and follow a trail to the base of the cliff.

Chocolate Left 5.8 G 45'

Start: At the far left end of the cliff, 10' uphill and left of the large overhang.

P1 5.8 G: Make a long reach to stick-clip the first bolt. Work right across the face to the left-facing corner on the left side of the buttress. Up the corner almost to its top, then slide right around the arête onto the face to a fixed anchor. 45'

Chocolate Right 5.9 G 40'

A 5.8 route with a boulder-move start.

Start: At a shallow trough directly below the large roof at the left end of the cliff and 6' left of the left-facing corner.

P1 5.9 G: Make a boulder move up the trough (crux), then up to the left end of the large roof. Step right around the arête and climb the face and shallow left-facing corner to a fixed anchor shared with Chocolate Left. 40'

Mr. T 5.10c G 50'

Start: 12' right of the large left-facing corner at the left end of the cliff, below flakes with a thin seam just above. A gnarled birch tree provides a seat at the base.

P1 5.10c G: Scramble up the flakes, then up a thin seam. Face climb up past several short vertical cracks and excellent horizontals (crux) to a final long reach move to a pocket. Mantel into the moss above. 50'

I Pity The Fool 5.7 G 50'

Start: 6' right of Mr. T below a crack that runs the full height of the cliff.

P1 5.7 G: Up and right on a large blocky flake to gain a crack just left of a shallow left-facing corner. Follow the crack system to the top. 50'

Shirtless In November 5.10d PG 50'

Start: 18' right of I Pity The Fool below the left end of a blocky right facing, right-arching corner 15' up.

P1 5.10d PG: Climb the face up to the corner, then up the corner to its top where it becomes an overlapping flake. Make face moves up and left to a good horizontal, then more face moves to a finishing handcrack (crux), the left of two parallel handcracks. 50'

Gear: To 2".

Criss Cross 5.10c G 45'

Start: On the right end of the cliff below a shallow vertical trough with seams, just right of a square box-shaped hole 8' up, and 20' left of a giant oak growing 2' from the cliff face.

P1 5.10c G: Up the groove using incut flakes and seams and intermittent cracks to a fixed anchor. 45'

Lost Hunter's Cliff

The trail to the cliff has been improved and is easier to follow now.

From the east end of the parking pullout 18T 538004 4789286, locate an obvious trail in the trees (0.0 min) and follow this northeast. At 3 min reach a T intersection (going right goes to NY 10, the old approach); go left (downhill) for 50' towards Chub Lake. About 100' before the lake, turn right onto a small path and follow this as it contours around the east side of Chub Lake. The path crosses a small stream, then makes a short climb to a Y intersection at 9 min. The right branch goes to Lost T; you go left.

Follow the path as it meanders north, making several brief bends to the east. At 21 min cross two large streams that drain a beaver pond on the right 18T 538557 4790326. Just after the second stream is another intersection. The left fork leads to McMartin Cliff; you go right. The path follows along the shore of the beaver pond for 5 minutes or so, then breaks away to the north following a stream up the side of Sherman Mountain. When the path levels out, you'll come to a distinctive 40'-wide, 30'-high clean face with two prominent horizontals. This is key to locating the crag, as the main face sits hidden just above. Follow along the left side of this cliff and into a steep gully. At the top of the gully, the main face is visible directly in front of you 18T 539096 4790967, reached at 52 min.

Corkscrew 5.11c G 50'

[Left of route #1, page 557]

Start: Follow the path another 100 yards left past Mountain Bruin to another buttress of orange rock with arêtes, overhanging faces, and roofs. Begin on the left side of the buttress at an arête.

P1 5.11c G: Climb up and right onto a beautiful yellow face with a shallow, left-facing corner. Up the corner to its top, then over two overlaps to a fixed anchor. 50'

Hot Compress 5.12a G 50'

A large roof with a steep, bulging, upper headwall. Unique with no crimps; only sidepulls.

Start: In the middle of this buttress, about 35' right of Corkscrew, at a 20'-tall slab.

P1 5.12a G: Scramble up the 4th class slab and stick-clip the first bolt. Go up a dihedral to a good ledge, then up and left to a roof. Over the roof on the right, then up an overhanging face using slopey sidepulls to a final mantel and a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: Draws.

Sideways 5.10a G 100'

Watch for rope drag on the first section. Great view from the top.

Start: 75' right of Corkscrew (and 15' uphill), on the right side of the buttress, 40' right of a crack that splits the middle of the buttress.

P1 5.10a G: Move left 10' under an overhanging face, then back right up a ramp that goes above the overhanging face. Large holds lead to a midway ledge, just left of a small pine tree. Walk 40' across the ledge and move up to the left of a large block that forms a roof. Continue into a corner between a slab and block, step right onto left side of block and up to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws.

Terapia 5.12a G 50'

[Between routes #1 and #2, page 557]

Start: On the arête 10' right of Mountain Bruin.

P1 5.12a G: Stick-clip the first bolt, then climb the arête and beautiful orange–yellow face just right of the arête to a fixed anchor. 50'

The Weasel Climb 5.9 G 50'

[Between routes #2 and #3, page 557]

Start: 18' left of Sitting Duck, just right of an arête, at a short handcrack. This is right of, and just around the corner from Trigger Finger.

P1 5.9 G: Up the handcrack, then step right to a bolt. Go up and right over a bulge, then up left to a stepped ceiling. Over this at a thin seam, then work up the face just right of the arête to a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: Draws plus medium cams.

Snowy Mountain

The sites on Mason Lake should be added to the list of "Where to Stay" [page 476], and are particularly convenient for those climbing at Snowy Mountain. These attractive sites are along Jessup River Road; from Speculator, drive 8.2 miles north (toward Indian Lake) on Route 30 to Jessup River Road. Turn left and drive 0.3 miles south. The lake is on your left.

The turnoff from the DEC hiking trail near the campsite on the ridge is reportedly more difficult to find with new blowdown from Hurricane Irene.

Porter Mountain

Porter Party 5.8 PG (5.2 X) 365'

Start: 75' left of the exposed right-rising ramp covered with prickly raspberry and blueberry bushes that marks the approach to the start of the Goodwin–Eastman Route, at a right-rising vegetated corner, the left edge of a clean steep slab.

P1 5.2 X: Up bushes in corner for 30', then step out right on good holds and ledges. Belay on the highest ledge. 75'

P2 5.5 PG: Aim for a small, left-rising overlap about 50' up. Up slab past a bolt, then angle left to a second bolt below a small right-facing corner. Gear belay above on a 10"-deep ledge. 125'

P3 5.8 PG: Up black fracture to headwall and puzzling overlap (crux, bolt). Aim up and slightly right on a long easy run-out to second headwall; break through overlap with good gear to a tree belay. 165'

Mellor–Hyson 5.8 R 620'

Ascends a direct line between the lowest and highest points on the cliff.

Start: At the low point on the cliff, directly below the right end of the prominent, bushy, right-rising traverse terrace (the one from which the Goodwin–Eastman Route begins), at a 5'-high, left-facing flake, below a black roof 40' up.

P1 5.8 R: Climb the unprotected face—slightly right then back left—to roof alcove and some protection. Break roof, then traverse left to rising overlap at prominent right-rising crack (#1 or #2 Camalot). Up slab, then right to birch clump. 180'

P2 5.6 R: Climb rock right of grassy pasture to belay at steepening wall. 90'

P3 5.5 X: Move right over flake ledges. Then climb 40' of unbelievably pocketed rock on left-rising ramp; no protection until you reach the headwall (#2 Camalot). Traverse left to short right-facing corner, break headwall at crack above, then go up to trees. 190'

P4 5.4 R: Climb black slab to top. 160'

Mineville Slab

Zero Gravity Bella 5.2 G 40'

Start: Same as Turd Ferguson Can Suck It.

P1 5.2 G: Follow a left-rising ramp system. When the crack disappears, small slopey buckets lead to the top of Conveyor Belt. 40'

Turd Ferguson Can Suck It 5.5 G 35'

Start: 30' right of Conveyor Belt below an obvious parallel crack system.

P1 5.5 G: Work the low-angled dirty cracks to the ledge 20' up. Finish up the final section (crux) to belay at a few trees. 35'

Peregrine Pillar Area: Banzai Wall

Variation to Oscillation Overthruster [Route #12, page 276].

V2 5.9 G: Useful if P1 is wet. Begin 6' left of the normal start and climb the outside face of the tower past a hole, then up a left-leaning crack to the top of the tower. Step down and right to the P1 fixed anchor.

Santa Claus Hill

Location: Wilmington, accessed from the Whiteface Memorial Highway (NY 431)

Aspect: South and east

Height: 70' to 200'

Quality: ***

Description: Despite being obvious from the road (and even downtown Wilmington), this cliff appears to have escaped attention. The summit area above the cliff is a popular hiking destination with good views, a forest road approach, and a large stone fireplace (and grill).

The approach reaches the cliff at its toe. Right of the toe the cliff faces east, is overhanging, dirty, about 70' tall, and has very featured rock, although no cracks. Left of the toe is the "big wall" section that faces south, rises up to 200', and is capped by a roof, the location of Santa Crux and its neighbors. Left of the "big wall" are the crack lines Yes, Virginia and Rudolph.

The cliff is slow to dry after rain.

Approach: 25 min; moderate.

Directions: From Wilmington, at the "four corners"—the intersection of NY 86, the Whiteface Memorial Highway (NY 431), and Bonnie View Road—go west on the Whiteface Memorial Highway (NY 431) for 1.7 miles. Park at a pullout on the right (north) side of the road, just past Santa's Workshop (taking care not to block any gravel roads). Alternatively, there is a pullout on the south side of the road 200 yards west of Santa's Workshop.

From the pullout, walk a few feet up a gravel "loop" road to a weed-covered forest road that leaves the loop and goes north. At 1 min, bear left at a fork. At 2 min, the road crosses into state land (there is a Forest Preserve sign on a birch). At 5 min, a road branches to the left at a clearing; continue straight north. At 7 min, another road joins from the right; continue straight. At 9 min, reach a small double clearing. From the second part of this double clearing, two very faint roads branch left (west); take the first one. The road will fade to a lightly traveled intermittent path with some other faint roads branching from it, then fades completely, although there is some flagging. Persist uphill in the same direction on the intermittent path, moderately uphill, to reach the toe of the cliff at 25 min 18T 590924 4917424.

Note: The first section of the approach is private property. At present, there are no private property signs, and it seems obvious that many people use this road to hike up this hill. If there is a concern about crossing private land, it's easy to bushwhack along the heavily blazed property line from NY 431 for a couple minutes and reach the forest road where it enters state land.

Yes, Virginia 5.8 G 80'

Good gear, but the oddly-shaped crack makes it difficult to place; not a good lead for beginning 5.8 leaders.

Start: Near the left end of the big wall, as the path starts going uphill, a 15'-long tongue of white rock extends from the bottom of the cliff. Left of this, locate an overhanging, flaring, black chimney high on the cliff, with a tan-colored "shark's tooth" boulder jammed in the top of it. 15' feet right of the chimney is a large nose of rock with cracks on either side of it. Begin directly below the nose at an obvious stepped crack, just left of the tongue of white rock.

P1 5.8 G: Step up the crack through some easier climbing to a flat platform below a vertical wall. Climb the crack system on the right side of the nose. At the top of the vertical wall, walk up an easy slope to a tree with a fixed anchor. 80'

Rudolph 5.5 G 120'

Start: Same as Yes, Virginia.

P1 5.5 G: (V1) Go up the crack a few feet, then traverse right 20' to a right-leaning crack. Follow the crack for 90' to an easier brushy finish at a 4" beech tree with a fixed anchor. 120'

V1 5.8 R: Begin right of the tongue of white rock, directly below the right-leaning crack. Boulder 10' up to the crack (no gear, bad landing) and join the normal route.

Descent: Rappel with a 60m rope.

Santa Crux 5.10d G (5.1 X) 100'

Three hard cruxes separated by easier climbing on brilliant, clean stone .

Start: About 40' right of Yes, Virginia is a 20'-tall, overhanging, white wall. Right of this a low-angle slab. Begin on the right side of the slab.

P1 5.10d G (5.1 X): Go up and left across the slab to its left side. Move up to a roof (#2 Camalot), then over this (crux) to a low-angle slab. Run out the slab to the next bulge (trivial climbing, but not a place to fall) and pull this (5.9 G) using great knobs. Continue straight up the slab on great holds and a bit of friction to a final bulge; pull this at a left-facing flake (5.8+ G), then move up super-featured, black, knobby rock to a fixed anchor shared with Silent Flight. 100'

Gear: Draws plus a #1 or #2 Camalot.

Naughty or Nice 5.10a G 100'

Start: Same as Santa Crux.

P1 5.10a G: Fly up the right side of the slab to blocky steps at its top. Go over a bulge, then leftwards up the slab and over the next bulge. Continue straight up the slab to a right-facing open book in black rock. Up the open book (crux) to a tricky mantel, then move up and left to the fixed anchor shared with Santa Crux. 100'

Gear: Draws.

Silent Flight 5.8 G 120'

Varied and interesting.

Start: 25' right of Santa Crux at a right-facing, black, frequently-wet open book above a three-trunked white ash tree.

P1 5.8 G: Move up the unprotected, frequently-wet corner to a ledge and hidden protection. Mantel left onto the ledge, then go straight up the face to the left side of a distinctive, left-pointed flake below large black roofs. Climb the face left of the left-pointed flake (crux) to a slab below the roof, traverse left under the roof, then pull through the roof on its left side to a fixed anchor shared with Santa Crux. 120'

Gear: Draws.

Don We Know Wears Gay Apparel 5.9 G 90'

Varied climbing, and more continuous than the other routes.

Start: From Silent Flight, walk right along the base of the cliff and onto a right-rising ledge. At its highest point is a large tree; from here scramble up a short 5'-tall wall to the next ledge, then walk right to a huge terrace in a black corner, hidden from below. Begin at the toe of a slab 20' left of the corner.

P1 5.9 G: Move leftwards on the slab to a shallow, right-facing corner. Up the corner to its top, then step left onto a face and climb up past several horizontal cracks. At the highest horizontal, move right 6', then go straight up a knobby face to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: Draws plus gear to 1.5". The crux is protected by small TCUs.

Fox Mt Crag

Location: West of the village of Raquette Lake overlooking Browns Tract Inlet.

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 100'

Description: This long cliff rises above Browns Tract Inlet and is a mix of slabs, roofs, flakes, and cracks. Similar to nearby Bald Mountain, the rock is quite dirty, but a few clean lines have been uncovered. The main face is over 400' wide and 100' tall with good potential for routes to those that persevere.

There is good cell reception at the cliff.

Camping: There is a beautiful campground run by the DEC—Brown Tract Pond (315.354.4412)—about 3 miles away.

Approach: 20 min, easy.

Directions: Park at the Raquette Lake Free Library in the village of Raquette Lake 18T 527592 4851240. Walk (or bike) west on Dillon Road, an old railroad bed and a designated biking trail and snowmobile trail, for 0.2 mile to a locked gate. Continue past the gate for 0.6 mile with good views of the cliff. Once past the cliff (and just west of the swampy area in front of the cliff) 18T 526272 4850872, leave the road and head northeast to the talus. Ascend the left side of the talus, working right to reach the cairn (a cheater stack of stones) at the base of Outfoxed 18T 526492 4851172.

You can also reach the cliff from the west by following Dillon Road (the old railroad) from a gate 18T 523846 4849812 near Upper Brown Tract Pond.

Outfoxed 5.8 PG 100'

An unprotected crux start. Most of the dirty rock is avoided by staying on the nicely featured outside faces of the flakes.

Start: At some stacked blocks 100' left of Devin Monkey below a roof 4' up. 50' right is a large open book capped by a roof.

P1 5.8 PG: Boulder up to gain a left-facing flake which is climbed to its top. Move right across a vegetated black streak to another left-facing flake and climb to its top. Move left and step over a black streak to right-facing flake which is followed up and left to a sloping ramp. Head up and right up a small buttress with incut holds to a fixed anchor on a very large pine tree. 100'.

Gear: To 3".

Devin Monkey 5.6 PG 90'

Enjoyable flake climbing down low with a grungy finish.

Start: At the highest point along the base of the cliff, on top of a short slab overlooking the open talus field.

P1 5.6 PG: Go up a leaning arête to a tree ledge. Step left onto a block then up a right-sloping ramp to some flakes. Climb the left-facing flakes system to its top at a large ledge. (V1) Walk right 10' and climb a crack in a very dirty slab to the top. 90'

V1 5.10 TR: Go straight up to gain a horizontal above the ledge, hand traverse left 10' to holds above a ceiling. Pull through the ceiling, then up a notch to the top.

Gear: To 2".

Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

The bolts on Crack Mechanic and Coffee Achievers have been replaced.

Variation to Crack Mechanic [Route #32, page 301], making this route a completely independent line.

V1 Crack Mechanic Direct 5.11d G: Begin as for Great Chimney and scramble to a ledge on top of a block (the center of this block forms the offwidth of Coffee Achievers). Move up a shallow left-facing corner to its top below an overhang. Over this (bolt) to a sidepull, then up to a good horizontal of the normal route.

Bass Lake Hill Crag

Location: East side of the Northway, near North Hudson

Aspect: Southwest

Height: 200'

Description: This large and complex cliff can be easily seen from the old Frontier Town airstrip, and from the north-bound exit ramp of Northway Exit 29. The overall quality of the rock is reminiscent of Hurricane Crag—a bit of loose rock that can be pried off, and a sort of bristly, dry feel.

The cliff is 150' wide and about 200' tall, but is broken by a ledge and some 4th class rock at the top. There is potential for eight to ten routes.

Walking along the base of the cliff from left to right, after some broken rock, you'll reach a large 8'-tall boulder sitting a few feet from the cliff marking the left side of the first good climbing wall. This wall is about 60' by 60' with an obvious crack in an open book in the middle. Downhill and right of this is a short black wall that just out; 15' up is an obvious V-notch, and the start of the route Snakeskin. Right of Snakeskin is a large flat ledge below a 50'-tall tower of rock (The Citadel) with several promising cracks. Most of the climbing potential is around the area of Snakeskin and The Citadel.

Approach: 40 min, moderate.

Directions: From Northway Exit 29 (North Hudson), follow US 9 north for 8.5 miles to Caza Turn Road on the right. Turn right and drive approximately 100 yards past the first house and locate an old blacktop road on the right that heads east, the little known (and unsigned) Caza Trailhead. Park along Caza Turn Road 18T 602976 4871116.

Walk the blacktop road east a couple hundred feet until it enters the woods and becomes a trail (there are "Forest Preserve" signs and "No live bait in Bass Lake" signs). Even though there is no roadside sign or trail register, this is a wonderfully maintained DEC trail that leads to Bass Lake and beyond to Berrymill Flow. Follow the trail along Black Brook, and then uphill. You will cross a small brook at about 5 min. At 15 min there is a cairn on the right side of the trail (you've gone too far if you reach three tiny brooks that cross the trail in rock lined channels). From the cairn, leave the trail and bushwhack 225º for 25 min to the top of the hill. Continue over the top of the hill and down the southwest side for a couple hundred feet to the top of the cliff 18T 603774 4870304. Reach the bottom of the cliff by hiking around the west (skier's right) end.

The slabs on top are very exposed.

Snakeskin 5.7 R 95'

Start: Below a V-notch 15' up in a black wall that juts out. There is also a cairn here.

P1 5.7 R: Work straight up to the notch (no gear, 5.7 R). Through the V-notch, then up easier rock to a cleaned, slightly left-leaning corner. At the top of the corner, step right of the arête and climb an attractive face for a few feet to an easy finish. Fixed anchor on the tree at the top. 95'

Fun-da-ga-o Cliff

Location: Soda Range, accessed from Hurricane Road outside of Keene

Aspect: Southwest

Height: 70'

Description: Located at the high point on the Nun-da-ga-o Ridge, this small cliff has excellent views spanning from the Dix range to Whiteface. The cliff is 500' wide, although the left end is ledgy and broken. The climbing is fairly good with cracks and featured faces on generally high-quality rock. Many of the obvious lines have now been climbed, but there is potential for those willing to climb less well-protected faces. There are no trees near the edge, so gear anchors are generally required.

Approach: 50 min; moderate.

Descent: Walk right to the trail and follow that to the base of the cliff.

Directions: From NY 73 / NY 9N in the center of Keene near the fire barn, drive 2.3 miles up Hurricane Road (CR 13) to a 90º bend to the right and the intersection with O'Toole Lane. Turn left and drive to the end of the road at Crow Clearing and the trailhead for Hurricane, Lost Pond, and Big Crow.

Hike the trail toward Big Crow for about two-tenths of a mile (about 10 min), steeply at times, to near the summit of Big Crow. Look for a trail on the right marked for Nun-da-ga-o Ridge (this ridge is marked "Soda Range" on the USGS maps); the intersection is obvious, but, as of 2011, the Nun-da-ga-o sign is very faded. Follow this trail, unmarked but in good shape and easy to follow, for 40 minutes over a series of bumps with beautiful views. Near the high point on the ridge the trail reaches the base of a 40'-tall cliff that wraps around the summit 18T 601288 4903288. The hiking trail meets the cliff at the route Mint Marcy; this route, as well as Crumbs Along the Mohawk and Samboneparte are climbed directly from the hiking trail.

Left End

To reach the Left End, bushwhack along the base of the cliff through thick balsam growth, or go back down the trail into the notch and through less thick growth to the base of the cliff (this is the easier approach for reaching Peanut Butter Pandemonium).

Peanut Butter Pandemonium 5.7 G 70'

Start: 150' yards left of the trail below a winding crack on a right-facing arête.

P1 5.7 G: Follow a winding crack to a ledge below a short fingercrack. Pull the crack past a bulge and climb the face directly above it (crux), which can be avoided by moving right into a chimney–flake. 70'

Caramel Chasm 5.7 G 40'

Start: At a prominent chimney–crack, 150' left of the trail.

P1 5.7 G: Access the hanging chimney via bouldery moves on the right-hand face. At half height, step across to the juggy left-hand edge of the crack and follow this to a loose topout.

Gear: 4" cam useful.

Fudge Brownie a la Mode 5.6 G 40'

Start: Begin 75' left of the trail at a clean face beneath a small overlap.

P1 5.6 G: A tricky start leads up the face to the overlap. Over this, the up past several small wire placements. 40'

Right End

This is the section of cliff where the trail reaches the base.

Mint Marcy 5.7 G 40'

Start: Where the trail reaches the base of the cliff, at a system of small flakes below a ledge 15' up.

P1 5.7 G: Climb the flakes to the ledge, then up a thin crack to the top. Scramble up ledges to set up a belay. 40'

Crumbs Along the Mohawk 5.9+ G 40'

Start: At a left-facing corner 10' right of Mint Marcy.

P1 5.9+ G: Climb the corner onto a small ledge (small cam essential), then up some insecure tips-locks into a handcrack. Exit onto the summit ledges with a gear belay.

Samboneparte 5.8 G 40'

A superb climb, if only it were longer!. Sports an excellent thin crack and a clean face topout.

Start: 10' right of the Crumbs Along the Mohawk corner, behind some brush at a set of small corners below a thin fingercrack that breaks a small roof.

P1 5.8 G: Up the corners past some hollow jugs and through the roof via the fingercrack. Near the top of the crack, step right and continue up the face. Belay on the summit ledges. 40'

Gore Mountain: Paul's Ledge

Description: Paul's Ledge is mentioned in the introduction to Gore Mountain [page 506] as having a scenic viewpoint with a couple topropes.

Paul's Gondola Ride 5.4 G 45'

A beautiful setting with views of Gore Mountain and the mountains to the east.

Start: [Map page 507] From Paul's Ledge on the blue blazed Schaeffer Trail, scramble (skier's) left along the cliff edge to a 5'-deep fissure. Scramble down into the fissure, then head (climber's) left along base of the cliff past a vertical toproping wall directly below the lookout. Begin 25' left of a blocky right-facing corner that has a clean overhanging right-facing wall, in front of a large two-trunked birch tree.

P1 5.4 G: Make a couple friction moves to a horizontal crack 10' up, then pass a large birch to the right. Continue on a right-rising line towards the blocky corner. Climb over a couple of large blocks and then into the corner for the last moves to the top. 45'

Panther Gorge

Kat Nap 5.9+ PG 280'

[Between routes #2 and #3, page 409]

Start: At the huge left-facing dihedral that separates the Agartha Wall and Feline Wall.

P1 5.9+ PG: Up a left-leaning crack to a small left-facing corner, then up to a grassy ledge at the base of the main corner system. Follow the main corner system to a belay on a good ledge. 230'

P2 5.8 G: Continue up the corner system to a spruce ledge at its top. 50'

Descent: Rappel the left side of the Feline Wall.

Bushy Pussy 5.9+ G 40'

On the Feline wall, this route has clean rock and a well-protected crux.

Start: Same as for The Cat's Meow; go up and around the dirty slab to a belay beneath the right side of the tall, low-angled wall.

P1 5.8 PG: Go up vertical cracks on the low-angled wall, stay left of a tall shrub-filled depression, and move slightly right toward an arête at the edge of the wall. Make a tricky slab move then work up and left to a belay beneath a steep wall with two vertical cracks. 180'

P2 5.9+ G: Climb the crack on the left side of the steep wall (crux) then continue up easier cracks and slabs that are left of vegetation. Belay from trees at the top of the wall. 160'

P3 3rd Class: Bushwhack up and right (northeast) toward a low-angled cliffband with a shrub-filled gully. Go up the gully to the end of the technical climbing. 300'

Descent: From the top of the gully bushwhack steeply uphill and heading north. Continuing north, the slope and bushwhacking ease and the Phelps Trail is reached 15 min from the top of the gully.

Jewels and Gem

Gold Digger 5.10b TR 60'

This route climbs the thin seam between North Country Club Crack and Diamond and Coal. Go up the seam, then straight up to the top.

Hidden Gem 5.9+ PG 60'

Start: 7' right of Shaky Spider, on a ledge with a large birch, 15' right of In the Rough, below a right-facing corner.

P1 5.9+ PG: Climb onto a small, dirty ledge via a groove–crack, and then step left to the base of a right-facing corner with a crack. Work up the corner to an overhang and break through using a blind crimp on the left face and up onto small ledges. Follow the right-hand fingercrack up to the top to a sloping, boulder-filled ledge. 60'

Gear: Small nuts, micro cams to 1".

Pilot Knob: The Brain

This is Spinal Tap 5.10b G 80'

[Between routes #20 and #21, pages 440–441]

Start: Between Where's my Cane? and Corpus Callosum.

P1 5.10b G: Make a right-rising traverse on a good crack, then up a left-diagonalling, intermittent crack to a lower angled section. Go straight up past to a fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Quickdraws and small gear plus a 2" cam for bottom.

Buck Mountain: New Buck

Some additions to New Buck make a great teaching area that can be easily set up to accommodate a group.

The route Train Wreck was once the worse climb at New Buck, but has cleaned up nicely.

Green Thumb 5.7 TR 50'

[Between routes #20 and #21, page 436]

Climb the face, crack, and flake just left of Train Wreck. The flake in the middle is hollow and would make protection scary.

Doe Si Doe 5.8- TR 75'

[Left of route #26, page 436]

A one-move wonder. Begin just left of Fawn Crack at a shallow, right-facing corner. Go up and left to a protruding flake-crack which is followed to the Fawn Crack anchors.

Iron in the Fire 5.6 TR 70'

[Right of route #26, page 436]

Easier or harder depending how much of the big depression you use. Begin just right of where an arching roof meets ground. Go up thin cracks, flakes and holes, trending left around depression, then go straight up to the anchors of Fly in the Ointment.

Fly in the Ointment 5.5 G 75'

Start: 10' right of Iron in the Fire.

P1 5.5 G: Climb straight up, staying right of depression, past horizontals to a fixed anchor. 75'

Gear: Quickdraws plus gear to 1".

Bun in the Oven 5.4 G 80'

Start: 25' right of Fawn Crack at a short corner crack.

P1 5.4 G: Climb face right of the short corner crack using "holes" for pro. Move up to horizontal, then up left to fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Quickdraws and small gear.

Pig in a Poke 5.3 G 55'

Start: Up and right, just left of a gully beneath cracks that start 15' up.

P1 5.3 G: Follow intermittent cracks to a fixed anchor. 55'

Gear: To 0.5".

Clements Pond Trail

Location: Keene, accessed from NYS 9N and Styles Brook Road

Aspect: Southwest

Height: 50'–80'

Approach: 20 min, easy.

Description: The Clements Mountain tract is part of the Wilmington Wild Forest, featuring Clements Mountain and some rolling country to its west, including Clements Pond. Two cliffs have been identified and developed within this tract. The DEC has recently routed a fishing access trail from Styles Brook Road to Clements Pond, which provide convenient access to these cliffs. The rock is somewhat similar to the Pitchoff Chimney cliff, in that it is sandy, red, sometimes fragile, and has horizontal features.

Directions: From Keene (0.0), go north on NYS 9N. At 3.0 miles, turn right on Styles Brook Road (labeled Glen Road on some maps). Climb the steep hill until the road levels off. You will pass the driveway of the Keene Farm (the hut owned by the Alpine Club of Canada) on your left. At 4.0 miles (and 600' past the driveway), park on the right (south) side of the road, at a pullout that will accommodate 4 cars.

The DEC has not yet officially opened and signed the new Clements Pond fishing access trail, so at this time (July 2010), the trailhead is not obvious. Enter the woods on the north side of the road at a large tan-colored boulder in the ditch. Follow rough paths for 100' to the start of the maintained trail 18T 598302 4906020, marked with blue discs. The trail begins flat, then climbs moderately, crossing and re-crossing a small brook.

Clements Pond Trail: The Towers of the Teeth

The Towers of the Teeth are two promontories of rock extending from the hillside, joined by a sandy neck of land. The upper tower is to the left, and the lower tower is below it to the right. Access to the tops of the towers is to climbers left of the upper tower, or by scrambling up between the towers. The tops of the towers have panoramic views extending from Giant around to Sentinel.

Directions: Follow the trail for 17 minutes to where you can glimpse a cliff through the trees on the right. Continue on the trail as it goes slightly downhill to a low point. There is a large three-trunked oak tree left of the trail here (with one dead trunk), and a small cairn right of the trail. (There is another large three-trunked oak tree about 50' further along the trail.) With no leaves, the cliff is visible through the trees on the right. Leave the trail at a cairn at the low point and walk easily downhill a couple hundred feet through open woods to the cliff 18T 598498 4906928.

Clements Pond Trail: The Towers of the Teeth: Upper Tower

Thangorodrim 5.8- PG 50'

Start: At a clean, right-facing, low-angle corner with an extremely thin crack, which widens to hands 20' up.

P1 5.8- PG: Climb the corner, initially on balancy face moves with very tiny gear, until the crack opens up and the climbing and the gear become much easier. Finish on a large, pleasant ledge. 50'

Descent: Rappel from the fixed anchor for the neighboring route, or scramble up blocks to the top of the tower

Gear: Standard rack plus Lowe Balls or doubles of small nuts.

Hobbit's Way 5.6 G 50'

Start: At a wide crack–chimney, 8' right of Thangorodrim.

P1 5.6 G: Up the chimney for 6', then up a short, left-rising ramp to a crack. Up the crack to a large ledge and a tree with a fixed anchor. 50'

The Silmaril 5.7 G 70'

Start: From Hobbit's Way, walk downhill and right 35' past a blocky, broken, right-facing corner to a reddish right-facing corner with a large, rotten-looking crack that widens to an alcove 15' up. Above the alcove are two dihedrals (the upper left dihedral is moderately steep and capped by a roof, the lower right dihedral is lower-angled and disappears out of sight). Begin at the large, rotten looking crack. There is a large, freshly-fallen, orange-red block (the "Silmaril") on the ground near the base.

P1 5.7 G: Climb the crack to the alcove. Pull up and left (crux) into the upper-left dihedral, and climb this. Step right around the roof at the top, and then up to a small birch tree cluster. 70'

Descent: Scramble left to the Hobbit's Way anchor to rappel

Gear: Standard rack plus one large cam (3" or 4") for the crux.

Project

The Oath of Fëanor: Like Fëanor's Oath, this starts out looking reasonable and then becomes a problem. Begin the large rotten-looking crack as for The Silmaril, climb to the alcove, and continue in the lower right dihedral as it narrows, and then finally inverts and becomes a rising hand traverse under a large roof. Once past the right end of the roof, climb straight up few feet, then back left to the same finish as The Silmaril.

Clements Pond Trail: The Towers of the Teeth: Lower Tower

The left end of the lower tower begins 75' right of The Silmaril, past an outcrop and a brushy side hill. Find some broken ledges and cracks, and then a left-facing corner capped by a roof 15' up. 20' right of the left-facing corner is a vertical, straight in crack which overhangs slightly for the first 10'; this is Morannon.

Project

Morannon: Begin 20' right of a left-facing corner at a vertical, overhanging crack. A strenuous start leads to easier crack climbing into a left-facing corner and a blocky finish. About 45' long.

Clements Pond Trail: Fisherman's Wall

This wall also has wonderful views from its top, and numerous blueberries in season. The key to finding the routes on this wall is the obvious recent rockfall at the foot of the center of the wall. The two routes are on either side of this rockfall area.

Directions: Follow the trail for 20 minutes to the base of the cliff, which sits about 30' off to the right. This is about 3 minutes past the turnoff for The Towers of the Teeth, and just after a switchback in the trail 18T 598302 4906020. Past this point, the trail continues another half mile mostly downhill to Clements Pond.

Fish Story 5.9 PG 80'

Start: About 20' left of the recent rockfall (which is at the foot of the center of the wall), at some easy blocks, with a 4" birch tree growing out of the cliff 12' up to (climber's) left.

P1 5.9 G: Scramble up the blocks, and then left past the birch tree onto a left-rising ledge. Walk up the ledge to the pile of blocks below the spectacular headwall. Climb straight up the