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NEW ROUTES ...and other cliff notes Last updated: Nov 23, 2009
The following new routes (259) and notes (48) have been compiled for 87 areas. These supplement the routes in the book. To add new routes, email us (Jim or Jeremy) with your route information. Click here for a printable, PDF version of this web page.
Atwell Boulders
Camping: [In addition to the camping mentioned on page 581] The utility company that operates the hydro facilities has a very nice summer campground on Soft Maple Flow about 3 miles downriver from the parking. It has car camping, a canoe boat launch, and a nice beach. It's an easy flatwater paddle from here to Eagle Canyon, and you can take out on the cliff-side of the river. Another option, Beaver Camp, has rooms, cabins, campsites, and meals (315.376.2640, www.beavercamp.org). History: [More is now known about the history of climbing at Eagle Falls. This replaces the history section on page 580] Eric Buzzell and his son Aaron began cleaning and toproping routes in 1988. Buzzell was program director at Beaver Camp located upriver on Beaver Lake, and toproping became a standard activity at the camp. Many of the routes such as Ranger Rick, Red Book, Fipi Lele, Soft Maple Times, Face of a Thousand Cracks, Adsit Arête, and Easy Ramp were toproped by the Buzzells during this period. A few years later, the canyon was closed by its owner, Niagara Mohawk Power Corp. Buzzell worked tirelessly for eight years with the various agencies to secure public access to the cliffs, and eventually the canyon was deeded to the DEC. The area remained under the radar until visited by Rolf Orsagh (who learned of the cliff from a nearby summer camp that his son was attending) and Mike Donahue. They were the first climbers to lead routes here. Jim Lawyer and Neal Knitel began visiting in 2008 to add many high-quality face and arête routes. The Tower of Babel 5.4 TR 50' [Between routes #10 and #11, page 583] Great climb for beginners and kids, as even the shortest ones can stand on top of the flat tower and feel victorious. Start: At the base of a free-standing tower at the left end of the overhanging red wall and 25' right of Adsit Arête. P1 5.4 TR: Climb to the top of the tower, then step left onto the face and finish up Adsit Arête on good incut buckets to the top. 50' FA (toprope) 1988: Eric Buzzell, Aaron Buzzell The Cross 5.6 TR 60' [Between routes #10 and #11, page 583] Use caution, as there is some potential for a pendulum. Start: In the right-facing corner at the base of The Tower of Babel. P1 5.6 TR: Up the corner for 12', then traverse right on foot ledges across the wall to the right side of the face, then up to the top. 60' FA (toprope) 1988: Eric Buzzell, Aaron Buzzell El Supremo 5.11c G 90' [Between routes #13 and #14, page 583] This scenic route climbs the most prominent feature at Eagle Falls—the buttress with huge roofs, Eagle Buttress, ending at a beautiful bare-rock summit. A crimpy crux; considerably harder if you're short. Start: On the right side of the open rocky area below the roofs of Eagle Buttress, at a right-leaning crack with pods, below the right side of an orange fin of rock that forms a chimney 20' up. P1 5.11c G: Up the short crack (5.8), then through a brief blocky section with good incut buckets. Work up the orange fin to its top, then make a long move to a hidden edge on the overhanging orange face above the roofs. Crimp up the face (crux) to a fantastic incut ledge, then up easier jugs (5.5) to a fixed anchor at the top. 90' Gear: Draws plus cams 2 ea 0.5". FA Jul 30, 2009: Jim Lawyer, Michelle Burlitch, Neal Knitel Dobsonfly 5.7 G 70' [Between routes #16 and #17, page 584] Start: 10' left of Stihl Water and 10' right of the open book mentioned in the start of Good Housekeeping, below a cleaned arête with a ledge 10' up. Start on either side of the arête. P1 5.7 G: Gain the ledge, then follow the arête (bolt, crux) to a large perched block at the top. Over this to another perched block with a fixed anchor on the left. 70' Gear: To 2", including small cams. FA Jul 25, 2009: Neal Knitel, Rayko Halitschke Stihl Water 5.9+ G 80' [Between routes #16 and #17, page 584] Excellent crack and face climbing with a juggy exposed arête thrown in for good measure. Start: 15' left The Eagle Has Landed at an arête capped by a large square roof 20' up. There is a large flat boulder 10' to the right. P1 5.9+ G: Up the right side of the arête past a bolt to the roof, then break the roof on its left side via a good crack. Once positioned above the roof, traverse right and climb the large juggy arête to a good stance. Move left to a bolt, then up the face (crux) to a fingercrack (V1), which is followed to a fixed anchor at the top. 80' V1 5.7 G: Step right and finish on the final two bolts of The Eagle Has Landed to that route's fixed anchor. Gear: Standard rack to 2". FA Jun 21, 2008: Neal Knitel, Rayko Halitschke, Jim Lawyer The Eagle Has Landed 5.10d G 90' [Between routes #16 and #17, page 584] This gem climbs a beautiful, clean, and unlikely orange wall, finishing on an arête with good views of the river. Start: 10' left of LM below two bottomless left-facing corners capped by roofs 15' up. The trail at the base of the cliff run up against the wall here, and there is a large flat boulder 4' back from the cliff. P1 5.10d G: (V1) Up the leftmost corner to the roof, then make an intricate traverse right around the second corner (crux) to better holds and up to a prominent 3" horizontal. Work up the face on good edges and flakes to a ceiling, then traverse left following an excellent horizontal crack (no feet) to the arête. Swing around the arête, then climb it to a fixed anchor at the top. 90' V1 5.8 G: The initial crux can be avoided: start on LM, then traverse left onto the face above the horizontal. This reduces the overall difficulty to 5.10b. Gear: Draws plus 1 ea 3" cam, 1 ea ¾" cam. FA May 21, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Neal Knitel Ravenous 5.11a G 90' [Between routes #17 and #18, page 584] Incredible climbing up a puzzling corner finishing through an exposed series of roofs. Named for the raven's nest that sits under the large roofs (and hence not a good climb for the spring), and for Lawyer and Knitel's insatiable appetite for new routes. Start: At the toe of the buttress left of Lloyd's of Lowville is a square-roofed alcove below a beautiful right-facing corner that begins 15' up. Begin on the right side of the alcove. P1 5.11a G: Climb to a good incut ledge below the corner, then up the corner (crux) to its top. Move left onto a face and thankful stance, then work left under a dramatic series of roofs using hidden sidepulls to an exposed perch on the lip of the large roof. Easy climbing up cracks in a headwall leads to a fixed anchor. 90' Gear: Draws plus a cams to 3/4". FA Jun 21, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Neal Knitel, Ben Currens, Rayko Halitschke Lloyd's of Lowville 5.10a G 90' [Between routes #17 and #18, page 584] Clean, solid rock with exposed positions on an arête. Fantastic; one of the best routes here. Named for a diner in Lowville. Start: On the left wall of a large open book, 10' left of Horizontal Fridge, and just uphill and right of some ceilings below a clean orange arête. P1 5.10a G: A tricky move off the ground leads to a good stance on the face. Work up and left past an undercling pocket (3" cam) to the arête (crux). Up the arête to a good stance, then up a fingercrack. Swing right on jugs to a shallow left-facing corner that is followed to a fixed anchor on a tree. 90' Gear: Draws, a 3" cam, and a few 1/2" pieces for the top. FA May 6, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Neal Knitel Shiver Me Timbers 5.8 G 90' [Between routes #18 and #19, page 584] Perhaps the most obvious line at the cliff—a crack that gradually widens from hands to 10". The roof at mid-height is overcome using the tree; otherwise, it would be much more difficult. Start: 15' right of Horizontal Fridge below a crack that runs the full height of the cliff. P1 5.8 G: Up the crack to the roof, then shimmy up the birch tree over the roof. Continue up the outside of the squeeze chimney to the top. 90' Gear: Surprisingly, gear to 4", with an emphasis on small TCUs. FA Aug 30, 2008: Joe Szot, Aya Alt Lichen or Not 5.11c G 90' Devious face climbing followed by high-quality finger- and hand-cracks. The route was significantly easier until the key hold broke next to the first bolt; the route still goes, but now uses the crack to the left, and the second clip is a bit desperate. Start: Same as Shiver Me Timbers. P1 5.10d G: Up Shiver Me Timbers for 8', then traverse right on the delicate face to a series of insecure moves up the left-leaning ramp features to gain a tips crack. Up the tips crack to parallel overhanging cracks, which are followed up a corner to a fixed anchor at the top. 90' History: Originally a variation to Promiscuous Girl, the bottom half was added later making an independent line. Gear: Normal rack to 2.0", with an emphasis on small to finger-sized cams. FA (upper section) Oct 12, 2008: Chris Yenkey FA (complete) Oct 14, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Neal Knitel Promiscuous Girl 5.12a G 90' [Between routes #19 and #20, page 584] Sustained, technical arête climbing on immaculate rock. Start: 5' left of Puppies in a Sack below an arête that forms a right-facing corner. P1 5.12a G: Starting on the right side of the arête, mantel onto an obvious hold at head height, then climb the overhanging arête (V1) to a good stance at two-thirds height. The climbing eases now—move right, then back up to the arête, finishing on incut jugs to a fixed anchor at the top on the right side of the arête. 90' Gear: Quickdraws FA Oct 12, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Neal Knitel, Chris Yenkey The Tasp 5.9 G 80' [Between routes #19 and #20, page 584] Nice face climbing with a high, exposed roof that requires a heel hook—a one-move wonder. A "tasp", from Larry Niven's book Ringworld, is a device that stimulates the pleasure center of the brain. Start: 10' right of the large right-facing chimney of Puppies in a Sack below a crack filled with jammed flakes. This is just left of an overhanging orange wall. P1 5.9 G: Up the flake-filled groove for 10', then traverse right on a narrow ledge to a shallow left-facing corner. Step right out of the corner and climb a pleasantly juggy face to a roof. Out the roof (crux), then up a face to a fixed anchor. 80' Gear: Draws plus a 2" cam and #6 nut. FA Jun 30, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Neal Knitel Prey Tell 5.10a G 100' [Between routes #19 and #20, page 584] An excellent combination of a thin face, an arête, and a steep intricate face. Start: 40' right of The Tasp and 20' left of Seventeen, at a small arête that leads to the right side of a large triangular roof 20' up. There is a wet, mossy open book corner 1' right of the start. P1 5.10a G: Up the arête (taking care to avoid the wet, mossy corner) to better holds and a good stance on the right side of the large triangular roof 20' up. Go up the face (crux), then step left and ascend a juggy staircase of holds on the large arête above the triangular roof. Continue up the steep face to a fixed anchor at the top. 100' Gear: Draws plus several finger-sized cams. FA Nov 13, 2009: Neal Knitel, Jim Lawyer Welcome to the Machine 5.9 PG 90' [Between routes #21 and #22, page 584. Perhaps shares part of route #22?] Good climbing and exposure on the upper section. The bottom section is slightly runout, but the high crux is well-protected. Despite massive cleaning, this route still has a section of questionable rock through an easy section. Named for a Pink Floyd song. Start: Walk upstream and find a wall facing upstream and facing the large pool beneath severely overhanging section of rock. Begin on a flat boulder, 6' downhill and left of where a horizontal crack meets the dirt. P1 5.9 PG: Climb to the horizontal, then up the steep face past two sidepull pockets to better holds beneath a fractured crack system 20' up (there is a fern ledge to the left). Work up the crack system to where the wall becomes steeper (crux), then up to a small ceiling. Move left around the ceiling into a short left-facing corner and a fixed anchor on a birch tree at the top. 90' FA May 13, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Neal Knitel, Colin O'Connor Class Five 5.11c G 80' [Between routes #22 and #23, page 584] Incredibly exposed, intricate, and puzzling climbing through a roof above a Class V rapid in the river (even in low water, the noise here is substantial). Up to the roof is 5.9. Start: At the right end of the cliff is a dominate buttress, horizontally fractured with multi-tiered roofs overlooking a large pool in the river. Begin at a flat ledge at the height of land beneath the roofs, down and left of Stacked. P1 5.11c G: (V1) Walk left on a ledge to short right-facing corner with a bolt. A crimp move gains the corner. Work up buckets in the overhanging tiers, then layback up to a good stance on the face beneath the huge 7'-deep roof, below and left of an acute left-facing corner in the roof. Chimney up the acute corner, then make a huge move out right to an excellent horizontal crack at the lip of the roof. Over the roof and onto the face with parallel cracks. Step left to a fixed anchor. 70' V1 5.6 G: Begin 10' downhill and left below two shallow left-facing corners in black rock. Up the crack in the left-hand corner to a blocky ledge of crumbly black rock beneath the short right-facing corner of the normal route. Gear: Draws. At the top, a 2" cam protects the second for the move over the roof. V1 requires a 0.75" cam. FA Sep 3, 2009: Jim Lawyer Deciphering the Dirtyness 5.8+ G 60' [Between routes #2 and #3, page 574] Cool moves; would be 3 stars if cleaned. Start: In a recessed alcove with a very prominent right-facing corner, about 20 feet right of the prominent roof crack. P1 5.8+ G: Climb the crack line in the right-facing corner: first over a bulge (sometimes wet) to a ledge, then up to the roof and out left (crux), then up a steep, tricky face to lower angle rock. Belay in shrubbery. 60' FA Apr 26, 2008: Rayko Halitschke, Leslie Ackerman Flatrock Mountain is a bouldering area being developed by Neal Knitel. Parking is on NY 28, 1 mile south of the parking area described for Middle Settlement. The parking area is on what looks like the old NY 28. The boulders are on the south side of NY 28 (same as the parking area), and are scattered over the northwest side of Flatrock Mountain. There are also some very short cliffbands that run parallel to the ridge which have potential for toprope climbs and highball problems. This area has significant potential, as there are countless boulders scattered through the woods. The first boulder that was climbed is the house-sized boulder split in half 18T 494628 4835056, visible from the road as you approach the parking area from the south. There are 5 established problems here, with potential for more difficult problems on the overhanging side facing the road. Another boulder just south of the house-sized boulder holds Horn-It, a problem involving a one-handed mantle to a slabby finish. South of Horn-It is a boulder almost below grade that has a nice sit start fingercrack and a very short face to the left. Further south is the Adopt-a-Boulder 18T 494467 4834929, that has two problems, Slopey Seconds, V0, a rounded arête to a friction finish, and Fitchen Flunder, V0, an overhanging fingercrack. Right of this is a nice overhanging sit-start problem. A boulder next to Minnehaha Road has a nice 20'-tall V2 problem called Swamp Thing and some other smaller boulders with established problems 18T 494442 4834804. One down and right of Swamp Thing is called Frumpy, a V0 that starts on the left side of an arête and wraps around to the right. The first cliff band now holds some roped climbs in the Corners Area 18T 494690 4834966, which has a faint path that leads to this area from the split-in-half house-sized boulder by the road. This path continues to the top of the first tier of cliff bands where the second and shorter tier can be reached. This section now holds three routes, The Cobbler, Flatrock, and Indirecto. Access the top of the cliff band by walking right and scrambling up a low angle corner. If you follow the cliff band south from the Corners Area, there is a boulder problem called Undershot, V1 18T 494650 4834904. Climb the left-leaning flake to the top then traverse right and walk off. The Cobbler 5.8 G 30' Start: 5' left of Flatrock. P1 5.8 G: Climb the crack (hands to fist to cups) to trees. Gear: To 4". FA Jun 1, 2009: Neal Knitel, Joe Pfeiffer Flatrock 5.10c TR 35' Start directly below the overhanging buttress and climb this straight on to the lower angle rock and steps at the top. FA Jun 1, 2009: Neal Knitel, Joe Pfeiffer Indirecto 5.10a TR 35' Begin 7' right of Flatrock and climb the face angling left to join Flatrock at the top. FA Jun 1, 2009: Neal Knitel, Joe Pfeiffer
FFA Apr 7, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Emilie Drinkwater
Gear: 2 ea 1-2". FA May 12, 2008: Jeremy Haas, Ben Uris Baywatch 5.6+ G 70' [Right of route #6, page 445] Provides easy access to the Project Wall Ledge. Start: 10' right of Tartar Control, beneath a short offwidth crack that leads to a conifer on a sloping ledge. P1 5.6+ G: Up the offwidth and across the sloping ledge to the bottom of a steep left-facing corner. Up the corner past two pesky trees to the right end of a large ledge. 70' Gear: To 4". FA Apr 15, 2008: Jamie McNeill, Jeremy Haas Rescue Breathing 5.9+ G 80' [Between routes #7 and #8, page 445] Secure face climbing with a flared fingercrack finish. The first ascent climbed the difficult and poorly protected direct start. The recommended start and the piton were added two days later. Start: Same as Tongue Lashing. P1 5.9+ G: (V1) Move out of the pod at the bottom and into a left-rising crack with a dead tree. Go past the dead tree to a second pod. Hand traverse left along a horizontal to a piton, then face climb a vertical wall to a left-rising crack. Follow the crack to a horizontal dike and step left to a right-rising, flared fingercrack. Up the fingercrack then traverse left to a fixed anchor shared with Taste Buds. 80' V1 5.10c R: Start 15' to the left at a chest-sized block and beneath an A-framed overhang 10' up. A small cam on the left protects a hard move into the A-frame. Go over the A-frame to a horizontal crack and follow it to the piton on the right. FA May 28, 2008: Jeremy Haas, Ben Uris, Tom Rosecrans FA (V1) May 26, 2008: Jeremy Haas Crotalusly Challenged 5.9 G 90' [Right of route #8, page 445] Crotalus horridus is the species of timber rattlesnake. Start: Right end of Project Wall Ledge, 10' right of the pine tree with a fixed anchor. P1 5.9 G: Up a detached block–flake to a left-rising crack. Follow the crack to a ceiling (crux) that is above a raven's ledge. Continue up the crack to a small tree then traverse left along ledge to a vertical crack. Up the brilliant vertical crack to the top. 90' FA Jun 14, 2008: Tom Rosecrans, Brie Rosecrans Dark Venomous Reality 5.10b G 100' [Between routes #14 and #15, page 446] Start: 15' right of Dark Venomous Dreams below a prominent roof 15' up. P1 5.10b G: Up to roof, exit left to crack. Climb crack, then diagonal across face through small roof (crux). Continue to diagonal up and right past cracks and good features keeping a line between the gully crack on the left and the overhanging arête on the right to a fixed anchor. 100' Gear: To 1" with an emphasis on small cams and medium nuts. FA Nov 9, 2009: Tom Rosecrans, Justin Barrett Snake Free 5.7 G 80' [Between routes #15 and #16, page 446] The sister route to Forked Tongue at the same grade and quality. Start: On the face between Forked Tongue and Gridlock, a few feet right of a pine in the access gully. P1 5.7 G: Climb the discontinuous cracks to the top. 80' Gear: To 2". FA Nov 9, 2009: Justin Barrett, Tom Rosecrans
Dryer Weather 5.6 G 40' [Right of route #18, page 440] Provides an easy way to the top of the cliff. Start: At the chimney right of Pine Tree Crack. P1 5.6 G: Up easy terrain to the overhang with nice moves through double crack above. 40' FA Apr 2008: Jason Brechko, Simon Cording
V1 5.8 G: Provides a nice 5.8 lead to get to the anchors for the harder routes on this wall. After the first bolt, step left to the crack system, up this to a ledge, then step right to rejoin Revolver at the flared crack. FA (V1) Apr 2008: Jason Brechko, Simon Cording
V1 Booby Trap 5.7 G: Continue up the initial crack past a bulge (crux) to a small tree, then up easy terrain to the top. FA (V1) 2007: Jason Brechko
Day of a Thousand Disasters 5.6+ G 35' [Left of route #1, page 572] The first ascentionists started the day with a broken bike chain, got lost several times, and arrived at the crag at 3 PM. After completing this climb, Ackerman sliced her leg open on a sharp rock. But the route is quite nice. Start: 50' uphill and left of Team America, below a clean, left-leaning fingercrack that starts above a blocky ledge 5' up. P1 5.6+ G: Climb the blocks and crack to the top. 35' FA 7/19/08: Leslie Ackerman, Shawn Higbee There is a grouping of large boulders known locally as Monument Park. The area is mentioned in Discover the Southwestern Adirondacks, which led to its "discovery" for bouldering by Neal Knitel, who cleaned and climbed many problems in the area in 2008. Follow the approach to Ice Cave Mountain, but continue across the steel bridge in Atwell, over the earthen dam, to a small dirt road on the right just past a camp. At the fork, take the left branch and drive over the outlet of a small beaver dam to a small road on the left. Turn left and drive to the end of this road 18T 504824 4818500. The road is rough and impassable in high water, so one may have to park before the end. The boulders are scattered in the woods, the largest being Haystack. There are a dozen or so problems from V0 to V1, and many open projects.
Berry Good 5.10a G (5.7 R) 290' [Left of route #2, page 343] An outstanding second pitch that climbs a naturally clean, black water streak. P1 is good, but has a long runout that can be avoided by climbing P1 of Bear Necessities. Start: Same as Bear Necessities. P1 5.9 G (5.7 R): Mantel onto a ledge, then work up and left to a fern ledge. From the ledge, move up to the right-rising "J" crack and climb it to its top (crux) to a series of good flakes and ledges. Continue straight up the slab (runout) to a bolt, then step left to a tree ledge. 100' P2 5.10a G P3 5.6 G (5.1 R): Straight up the unprotected slab to the broken crack finish of Bear Necessities. 80' Gear: Sparse rack to 2" plus many quickdraws. Descent: Rappel Bear Necessities with a single 60m rope. FA Aug 21, 2008: Michael LeBlanc, Diana LeBlanc Bear Necessities 5.10a G (5.2 R) 300' [Left of route #2, page 343] An excellent face climb on knobs and edges that makes its way straight up a deceptively high slab with terrific views of the Wilmington valley. Similar to Freudian Slip, but longer. Start: 30' uphill and left of the depression of Yard Sale, below right-rising slashes in a steep slab. P1 5.9 G: Mantel onto a ledge, the climb a steep wall using good incut jugs to a right-rising seam (gear). From the top of the seam, climb straight up featured rock to a fixed anchor. 100' P2 5.10a G: Step right and work straight up the face (crux) to a fixed anchor on top of large flakes. 100' P3 5.9- G: Step left on flakes, then friction straight up the face to a low-angle area beneath a large left-facing corner. Angle up and left for 60' (unprotected 5.2 friction), then climb a broken crack to a sloped ledge with a fixed anchor. 100' Gear: Draws plus cams and nuts to 1.5". Descent: The route can be rappelled (barely) with a single 60m rope. FA Jul 30, 2008: Colin Loher, Jim Lawyer, Emilie Drinkwater Gold 5.10a G 100' [Route #4, page 343] This route has been cleaned and is indeed superb. It's well protected with bolts on the upper slab, and there's a fixed anchor for lowering—a single 60m rope just makes it.
Why Did I Fall for That 5.8 G 170' [Left of route #1, page 267] The first pitch is recommended (and much better than it looks) and the second pitch is simply awful; it is possible to rappel after P1. Named for another song by The Who from the It's Hard album. Start: 150' uphill and left from the large right-facing corner of PSOC is a large left-facing corner with orange rock on its outside face. The top of the corner (about 100' up) forms a free-standing tower. Begin 10' left of the corner below a prominent right-facing flake. P1 5.7 G P2 5.8 G: Traverse left (staying well above the scary perched blocks) to a 4" crack and follow this straight up to a large tree on a grassy ledge. 80' Descent: Walk left and rappel into a gully with a single rope. History: The first pitch was initially climbed in the winter of 2008. Recognizing the potential for a good summer route, the pair returned in the spring. An anchor on trees of P1 indicate a possible earlier ascent. ACB May 10, 2008: Michelle Burlitch, Jim Lawyer Squeeze Box 5.8 G 90' [Left of route #1, page 267] A high-quality pitch, but often wet. Named for yet another song by The Who, and for the sweet stem box. Start: Below the large left-facing corner described in the start of Why Did I Fall for That. P1 5.8 G: Bypass a brief chossy band on the left, then enter the corner and climb the beautiful stem box to a ledge. Up a short finger crack that widens to tight hands to another ledge. 90' History: The route, being often wet, first attracted climbers as a winter destination. FA (M5) Jan 2008: Rayko Halitschke, Jim Lawyer FA (as a summer route) May 10, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Michelle Burlitch
V1 5.9- PG: Start up P2 of Hooligans, but rather than move right to the lone bolt, continue up left into a discontinuous, flared fingercrack. When the crack disappears, make a few tricky face moves (crux) to gain the ledge. Small gear needed. FA (V1) Mar 2009: Chris Duca, Nicole Doner
V1 5.6 G: Begin as for Pretty in Pink, climb past the bolt, then slightly left to the base of the crack. FA (V1) Sep 25, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Tad Welch
Pretty in Pink 5.9 G (5.1 R) 100' [Between routes #1 and #2, page 587] Climbs the beautiful, clean, pink, pocketed face between the upper cracks of Island Marriage and Honeymoon in Yosemite. A one-move-wonder. Start: 5' left of Honeymoon in Yosemite below a tan streak with a bolt 12' up. P1 5.9 G (5.1 R): Up the face to a bolt, then runout straight up (crossing The Island Marriage) past a shallow open book to a large left-facing flake (gear). Continue up to the clean pocketed face past a saucer-sized divot to its top. Runout to a fixed anchor. 100' Gear: Nuts and cams to 0.5". FA 9/25/08: Tad Welch, Jim Lawyer Damn Your Eyes 5.10c G 120' [Right of route #3, page 587] Climbs the face between the cracks Honeymoon in Yosemite and Hart Pump, featuring amazingly clean, pocketed rock, and two distinct, well-protected cruxes. Start: 15' uphill and left of Hart Pump, at a seam with a good finger-sized slot 7' up, and a bolt 15' up. P1 5.10c G: Boulder up the seam (crux) to a good jug on a sloped shelf, then step right to a sharp right-facing corner. Layback up to a ledge, then straight up to a pink, pocketed face. Up the face (5.9+) to a stance, then traverse right to a beautiful fingercrack that is followed to the top. 120' V1 5.3 G: To avoid the crux (and make the overall difficulty 5.9+), begin 15' uphill and left. Follow a right-rising sloping holds to the second bolt of the main route. Gear: Nuts and cams to 0.5". Descent: A 60m rope does not reach here, so walk 15' left and rappel from trees. FA Sep 25, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Tad Welch FA (V1) Sep 25, 2008: Tad Welch Hart Pump 5.7 G 120' Good, sustained, and continuous finger- and hand-crack climbing. Start: At the left end of the cliff, below a handcrack that begins in the ground and shoots up out of view. P1 5.7 G: Up the handcrack to a ledge, then follow the crack as it angles right to the top. 120' Descent: Walk (climber's) left and rappel from trees. History: It is possible that this is one of the four "lost" Purcell routes. Who knows? FA Sep 15, 1998: Joe Bridges, Barbara Hart Do Me a Solid 5.10a G 110' Excellent climbing in a remote and scenic location. This route alone is worth the hike/paddle. The rock is extremely compact on this face, but immaculately clean and littered with hidden incuts. Other lines have been toproped on this face. Start: Uphill and right from the center (or low point) of the cliff is a beautiful clean face bordered on the left by a broken right-facing corner that runs the height of the cliff, and on the right by a prominent right-leaning grass-filled crack. Begin in the center of the face. P1 5.10a G: Easy climbing leads to the first bolt at 25'. Pull through a steep section at mid-height, then work up and right to a steep headwall. Up through the headwall on a hidden flake and good edges to a fixed anchor. 110' Gear: Draws. Descent: Carefully lower with a 60m rope, which just makes it with some down scrambling. FA May 11, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Leslie Ackerman, Michelle Burlitch Owl Tail 5.8- G 75' [Way left of route #1, page 381] Another discovery by the indefatigable Tom and Ellen DuBois. This route is located on the ridge that runs northeast from Owls Head Lookout. Start: When approaching Owls Head Lookout from Route 9N, just before the hiking trail swings to the southwest, bushwhack due east 15 min diagonally uphill to the ridge to find a distinct block of rock 18T 607320 4894356. Begin on the northwest side of the block facing toward Knob Lock Mountain, at a flaring moss-filled groove with a small birch tree 12' up. P1 5.8- G: An insecure start in the groove leads to easy climbing up a network of cracks. Continue up a very aesthetic vertical crack and finish straight up easier (but questionable) rock to the top. 75' FA May 17, 2008: Tom DuBois, Ellen DuBois
Tarsal Grinder 5.10c G 70' [Between routes #3 and #4, page 155] Often wet, and a bit on the dirty side. Start: At the birch tree at the base of I Don't Need No Doctor. You have to climb P1 of Desi's Misery to access the start. P1 5.10c G: Step right and climb the low-angle face up and right to a prow. Up the prow (crux) to a fixed anchor below a ceiling. 70' FA May 24, 2008: Seth Arrow, Mark Arrow
FA 2002: Neal Knitel, Neal Lamphear
Skid Row 5.11a G 90' [Between routes #25 and #26, page 515] Start: Left of Gunky Route, behind a large boulder below an orange slab with a bolt. P1 5.11a G: Up slab (bolt), then move right across a left-facing corner (bolt) to a small slab below main roof. Move up to a jug (gear in left-slanting cracks above the lip), pull the overhang, then up moderate steep face (5.8) to a fixed anchor at the top of the cliff. 90' Gear: To 2". FA Jul 17, 2009: Jonathan Nickel, Randy Hibshman Shanty 101 5.8 G 35' [Left of route 34, page 516] Start: 15' left of Bidonville at a slab with a high bolt, and directly below a pointed prow. P1 5.8 G: Stick clip the first bolt, then climb directly up a slab below the prow. Up over the pointed prow, then continue up the face to a fixed anchor. 35' Gear: Above the prow, the route is 5.7 with trad protection. FA May 25, 2008: Bill Griffith, Gary Thomann The King and I 5.9+ G (5.4 R) 190' [Probably should be listed between routes #12 and #13, page 168] Located above Wall Ruler and right of Kaiser Friedrich is a large, open, off-vertical face with naturally clean, pocketed rock, completely hidden from the cliff base. The wall is bordered on its right side by a perched house-sized boulder. This was the first new route at the King Wall in over 10 years. Start: Begin on the good ledge at the top of Wall Ruler. This is accessed by climbing Wall Ruler, or (more easily) the first two pitches of Prince (5.7), then the P1 traverse pitch of Kaiser Friedrich (5.8). P1 5.4 R: Traverse up and right on good ledges with scant protection to a large, gently-sloped ledge beneath the upper wall. There is a fixed anchor on the ledge 40' left of the perched house-sized boulder. 50' P2 5.9+ G: Climb straight up the face through an unlikely-looking black headwall to the top. 140' Gear: 9 quickdraws plus cams through 2". Descent: Two 60m double-rope rappels return to the ground near Another Wack and Dangle Job. FA Jun 25, 2008: Don Mellor, Jim Lawyer The Keep 5.11b G 140' [Probably should be listed between routes #12 and #13, page 168] Immaculate pocketed rock, sustained climbing, and several cruxes characterize this off-vertical face. Absolutely superb. Start: At the fixed anchor at the end of P1 of The King and I. P1 5.11b G: Step left from the anchor, mantel a ledge, then walk left 15' to a pocketed black wall with a bolt. Work straight up the amazing pocketed wall (5.9) to a sloping ledge below a shallow white open book. Boulder into the open book (first crux) and climb to its top, then up the super thin face past a key nipple (second crux) to another sloping stance below a scooped headwall. Friction up the scoop to a difficult mantel (third crux), surmount an overlap, then run out to the trees and fixed anchor shared with The King and I. 140' Gear: Draws, RPs, and 1 ea 1" cam. FA Aug 27, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Don Mellor
FFA Jun 5, 2009: Matt McCormick
Wheelin' N' Dealin' 5.13c R 100' Climbs the beautiful seam bisecting the Normal Route; the hardest all-gear-protected route in the park. The first ascent required 3-1/2 months of work and close to 20 big falls, including a "cartwheel whipper" for which the route is named. Start: 15' right of Drop, Fly, or Die below tiered overhangs. P1 5.13c R: Pull the initial roof with some burly campus-like moves to a nice rest out right. Step back left into the seam, place small gear, then punch to a horizontal and good rest. Climb to a strenuous stance (improbable offset nut and green-yellow hybrid alien in the same pod). Gun up through an extremely insecure crux (tiny feet) to reach a jug (two tiny RPs). Follow easier but runout ground to a fixed anchor. 100' Gear: Extremely specific and includes three hybrid aliens and several micro RPs, some good and some questionable. Toproping prior to a lead is advisable due to the specific nature of the gear. FA Oct 17, 2009: Matt McCormick Ku Klux Who? 5.10d G 30' A variation finish to White Knight. Apparently, this has been climbed countless times through the years, but has recently been made more accessible with a fixed anchor at the top. P1 5.10d G: From the ledge at the top of White Knight, instead of traversing right to the fixed anchor of On The Loose, continue up the same crack system—rattly fingers to thin hands with multiple "finger buckets" along the way (much like the lower half of the route). 30' Descent: Lower with a 70m rope. There is a very small cliff along the Lake George—Glens Falls Bicycle Path, perhaps 20' high. The area has poor landings, but a toprope can be arranged. Routes up to 5.11 have been climbed. Old Guys Having Fun 5.9 PG 120' [Left of route #1, page 350] Start: At a crack 8' left of Topknot, just right of the arête. P1 5.9 PG: Climb crack to its top, then face climb (staying 8' left of Topknot) to a blocky ramp (left of Topknot's anchor). Traverse left above big flake to steep right-diagonaling fingercrack (crux), then easily left around corner to brushy, blocky crest that leads to the woods. 120' Gear: To 2". Descent: Two raps with a single rope using the anchor on Topknot. FA Jul 12, 2008: Don Mellor, Royce Van Evera Toss Me My Nuts 5.11a PG 160' [This route was listed as a "project" on page 474, and is now a lead route] Start: 20' right of the start of Get Reborn is an arête with a steep wall to its right. Begin 12' right of the arête, at a good handhold at head height. P1 5.11a PG: Make a boulder move to a horizontal crack, traverse left (crux, #3 nut critical), then up and step around the arête. Up the arête past a piton and 2 bolts (5.10b) to a fixed anchor. 60' P2 5.8- G: Move up and left to a wide crack in an overhang; up this, then scramble up easier rock to the top (same as Get Reborn). 100' FA Jul 17, 2008: Jamie McNeill, Jay Harrison Three Blind Mice 5.5 G 130' [The location of this route in relation to South Summit Route is unconfirmed.] Start: Uphill and right of South Summit Route, at a steep, moist, right-facing corner. P1 5.5 G: Climb the corner for 6' (or the unprotected slab to the left), step left onto a slab, then up a groove with a shallow left-facing corner on its right side (crux) to a stance. Trend right towards a left-facing corner-chimney. Up the corner, then up an excessively lichen-covered face, emerging onto a rolling slab that takes you to the top of the technical climbing. 130' Descent: From the top of the technical climbing, scramble and cedar pull up and right another 100' to reach the hiking trail. ACB Jul 19, 2008: Mike Stanislaw, Sam Vona, Harry Young The Lake Pleasant Quarry [page 568] has been cleaned, groomed, and equipped by Tim Trezise, outdoor director at Camp of the Woods in Speculator, Jay Harrison, and Todd Paris. It is now an excellent toproping destination with an open, flat base, toprope anchors, easy access (5 min, flat), and a good range of climbs (mostly between 5.7 and 5.8). The route Bullseye, mentioned on page 568 of the guidebook, is the 5th route from the right. The top of the cliff is accessed by walking right, and ropes can be arranged by carefully reaching over the edge and threading them through any of the many chain anchors. The cliff is 125' wide and between 20' and 45' high. The climbing is a mix of smooth crimpy face climbing, horizontal blocks and cracks, and small roofs, resulting from blasted rock. Many of the climbs have toprope anchors, but even so, several are good for leading. Looking at the cliff from the open meadow in front, there are 12 sets of anchors. The leftmost four anchors are for the first four routes Barrel of Monkeys, Sarge, Buzz, and To Infinity and Beyond! The anchors on these routes are difficult to access from the top (use a short rappel or lead Barrel of Monkeys). The crag main features are the "Iron Curtain", a smooth face to a ledge 8' up spanning the first five routes, and the "Rock Fall Area", just left of center, where many large loose blocks have come down. As are all routes in the guidebook, these are described left to right. Barrel of Monkeys 5.4 G 35' A good introduction to the area. Start: 25' left of Sarge at a left-facing corner just right of a large, dirty chimney–crack. P1 5.3 G: Up low-angled, highly-featured rock to a large ledge, then angle right to a fixed anchor. 35' FA Mar 2009: Todd Paris Sarge 5.7+ G 42' The fixed anchor is accessible from the top; use a short rappel to avoid unstable rock. Start: Near the left end of the cliff is an orange nose near the top. Begin just right of the nose, 55' left of Bullseye and 10' left of Buzz, below a horizontal crack 8' up. 42' P1 5.7+ G: (V1, V2) Climb up two small vertical cracks to the left of a smooth face. Continue up thin seams to a ledge with a fixed anchor. V1 5.6+ G: Begin by climbing the left-arching corner on the right of the smooth face to a great jug, then pull onto a small ledge. Join the normal route to the top. V2 Stinky Pete 5.10c TR: Just right of the normal start, climb the smooth face using a horizontal crack. FA Jul 2008: Todd Paris FA (V2) Apr 2009: Peter Whitmore Buzz 5.8 G 40' Start: At a face just right of a left-facing corner that arches left into a small ceiling. P1 5.8 G: (V1) Go directly up the face staying out of the left-arching corner, to a ledge at mid-height. Continue up a thin, broken crack to a fixed anchor. 40' V1 5.6+ G: Begin just left in the left-facing corner that arches left into a small ceiling. Move up the corner to a high jug at the end of the arch, the up to a horizontal crack. Step right and climb a thin crack to a good ledge with a fixed anchor. FA Jul 2008: Tim Trezise To Infinity and Beyond! 5.9 G 35' Despite appearances of being thin and crimpy, this is a fun climb that has a lot more available than meets the eye. Start: 6' right of Buzz at a black face with shattered rock. P1 5.9 G: (V1) Climb the black face to a good horizontal, then follow a straight-up seam to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is accessible from the top; use a short rappel to avoid unstable rock. 35' V1 Wheezy 5.10b G: Go up the smooth rock face to the right of the bolts using face crimps, avoiding use of the side pulls on Woody. Higher up, move diagonally right up small footholds, then lunge from a crimp to a horizontal crack. FA (V1) Jul 2009: Eric Jacobson FA Jul 2008: Tim Trezise, Jay Harrison Woody 5.7 PG 35' Perhaps the most obvious crack at the cliff. There is no fixed anchor; use "woody" (trees) for toprope anchors. Beware of large, loose, unstable rock at bottom overhang and loose blocks at top ledge area. When setting up as a toprope, there is a bolt around the corner from the main face to serve as a directional to keep the belay end of the rope out of a crack. Start: 5' right of To Infinity and Beyond! and at the left end of a low ceiling 4' up with some lighter-colored unstable blocks in it. P1 5.7 PG: Climb straight up black rock to a left-leaning orange seam that becomes a right-facing corner, then up to a ledge. 35' FA Jun 2008: Tim Trezise Squeeky Toy Aliens 5.7 G 35' Use caution with the large unstable blocks at the overhang. Start: At the right side of large hanging blocks. P1 5.7 G: Go up the hanging blocks, then straight up using horizontal cracks to finish on a large ledge at a fixed anchor around the corner of the face. 35' FA Oct 2011: Tim Trezise Emperor Zurg 5.10a G 37' The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top. Start: On the right end of the low ceiling 4' up at a thin seam in black rock. P1 5.10a G: (V1) Up the seam in the smooth face to a ledge in a small right-facing corner. Work up and left for 4', then straight up the orange face to a fixed anchor. 37' V1 The Project 5.12 TR: Start just right of Squeeky Toy Aliens in the center of the low ceiling 4' up. Climb over the ceiling, then up the smooth face to a second ceiling. Over this, then up to the Emperor Zurg fixed anchor. FA Jul 2008: Jay Harrison Rex 5.8+ TR 35' Start as for Emperor Zurg and step up and right onto a black face with good incut, crimpy holds. Up the face to a ledge, then over a ceiling and onto an orange face. Continue up some overlapping blocks to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top. FA Jun 2008: Tim Trezise I Am Not a Toy! 5.10b TR 30' Begin 10' right of Rex at a 5'-wide ceiling 4' up in black rock. Up the black face, then over a small ceiling to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top. FA Jul 2008: Jay Harrison Bullseye 5.8 G 30' This route has two bolts which were missing hangers for years, as they were being used by locals for target practice. No top anchor, but you can reach left and use the fixed anchor on I Am Not a Toy. Start: 5' right of I Am Not a Toy, and just right of a 5'-wide ceiling 4' up, 40' from the right end of the cliff. P1 5.8 G: Up past a ledge on the right to a ceiling (bolt), then up past a V-shaped pod to the top. 30' FA 1994: Neal Knitel, Neal Lamphear Tour Guide Barbie 5.7+ TR 28' Start as for Bullseye. Climb up and right through shattered rock to a horizontal crack, then to a vertical seam that leads to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top. FA Jun 2008: Tim Trezise Psycho Sid 5.7 TR 25' Begin 25' from the right end of the cliff at the 4th crack from the right end of the cliff, and the first crack right of Bullseye. Up the crack to a good ledge, step right and follow a seam to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top. FA Jun 2008: Tim Trezise Mutant Toy 5.6 TR 20' This is the second crack (which is more of a seam) from the right end of the cliff, and 15' from the right end of the cliff. Up the thin crack past horizontals to a ledge, then past a small alcove to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top. Mr. Potato Head 5.7 TR 16' (V1) Begin 6' from the right end of the cliff. Up a face with thin holds in a seam to an 8"-wide vertical slot with a fixed anchor just above. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top. V1 Mrs. Potato Head TR: Begin further right at a large blocky crack near the right end of the crag. A new area with a small number of problems, including 2 V6's, a V3/4 roof problem, and a V10/11. Lots of potential, although reportedly with poor landings. Park at the Round Pond trailhead, on the right 1.0 mile from the Chapel Pond pullout as you travel toward Malfunction Junction (map page 161). Walk towards Malfunction Junction for 500'; the boulders are in the jumbled talus on the north side of the road. A single very large boulder with about 10 fun problems ranging from V0 to V8. From the Northway (I-87) Exit 21, follow NY 9N east for 6.0 miles, then turn right onto Dunkley Road. The boulder is visible in the woods on the north side of the road.
P4 Rolling the Dice 5.11b G: Balance up and left to the top of the Ax of Karma flake, then move up and right onto the steep wall to a short, shallow right-facing corner (gear). Up the corner, then face climb up and right to an imposing, overhanging wave of rock. Pull over the ceiling (crux), up a face, then angle left 40' across several slabs to a steep headwall. Up the headwall (5.10c, much harder than it looks) to a fixed anchor. Requires 13 draws and 2 red aliens. 170' FA (P4) Aug 16, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Emilie Drinkwater
Under the Influence 5.10d G 150' This is the completion of Dennis Luther's last route, and named by him in keeping with the theme of the lower pitches. Start: At the P2 anchor of Cirrhosis. P1 5.10d G: Climb up and right to a large suspect (but sound) flake. Climb the flake, then head left and up to a shallow right-facing corner–crack. Follow the crack up a left-facing corner to an overhang (3" cam helpful), through the overhang using a finger crack, to the face above. At the last bolt head up and right to a thin crack. Climb the crack and face above to the top. 150' FA Sep 5, 2009: Bill Dodd, Chris Hyson Nick Wakeman Our Tenth 5.5 PG 340' [Left of route #1, page 100] A previously unknown route that makes a good diversion while waiting your turn on Catharsis. High quality climbing on P1 with clean, featured rock and solid pro every 25'; P2 is of lesser quality. Start: 40' left of Catharsis below a clean, featured, dark brown slab. P1 5.5 PG P2 5.5 PG: Head straight right, then angle up and right across a brushy ledge to a left-facing corner, up this, then continue traversing rightwards to join Catharsis just before at the Dead Oak Ledge. 180' History: The route has clearly been around a long time (as suggested by old anchor material at the P1 ledge) and fallen into obscurity, only to be rediscovered by Peckham. ACB Aug 2008: Travis Peckham, Nancy Peckham The Third Tier is mentioned on page 127 with a reference to a historic route in the huge left-facing corner on the upper half of the cliff. Rearview Mirror 5.9 G (5.7 R) 150' Bealor just moved to the area, having left the Shawangunks behind in his review mirror. This route is located on the right side of a buttress, the left side of which is the huge left-facing corner mentioned on page 127. A sub-par first pitch and good second pitch. Start: At a shallow open book that curves left, 30' uphill and right of an 8'-wide black water streak that is directly below a huge open book on the upper half of the cliff. P1 5.7 R: Follow the shallow open book up left past a small white birch to a slab. Step up left onto the slab (5.7 R) and up to a deep horizontal below a towering prow of rock. Traverse 20' left to a large blueberry-covered ledge. 75' P2 5.9 G: Follow an offwidth crack (crux) on the left side of stacked blocks to a ledge formed by the blocks. Finish up a jamcrack in the huge open book above. 75' Gear: Standard rack plus some large cams. FA Oct 2008: Mark Bealor, Ken Nichols Hand Therapy 5.8- PG 75' Harder for short climbers or those with small hands. Start: At short left-leaning cracks below a right-facing corner system, 25' right of the shallow open book of Rearview Mirror. P1 5.8- PG: Climb the cracks and corner system, then up a 4"-wide slot and finger crack to the top. 75' FA Oct 2008: Ken Nichols, Mark Bealor Autumn Gold 5.9 PG 90' Start: Below an undulating 3'-deep left-facing left-leaning corner, 35' right of a huge perched block whose left end is sharply pointed and forms a bottomless chimney. P1 5.9 PG: Up the undulating corner to a stance just right of a short right-facing corner. Angle up right into a right-facing V-corner (the left-hand of two corners), step left at the top of the corner, and pull over the top. 90' FA Oct 2008: Ken Nichols Trick Move 5.10b G 90' Start: At a slightly low-angle left-facing corner on the right end of a 20'-high black wall, 120 right of the Autumn Gold corner. There is a spruce tree above the left end of the black wall, 30' up. P1 5.10b G: Up the corner to the first ledge, which is just below a broad ledge running to the left. Move up right onto the huge ledge at the base of a large left-facing corner. Follow the corner (3.5" Friend useful) to the top. 90' FA Oct 2008: Ken Nichols Maiden Voyage 5.8+ G 90' Probably PG for shorter climbers. Start: At a large left-facing corner with a 20'-high yellow spot on the right wall, 50' right of the Trick Move corner. P1 5.8+ G: Follow the corner and crack that diverges left to a large ledge. Step out right and finish up a short jamcrack. 90' FA Oct 2008: Mark Bealor, Michelle Sirois, Ken Nichols As you move right along the base of the Third Tier, just right of Rearview Mirror, the cliff splits, forming a fourth tier. A tree ledge up to 80' deep separates the two tiers. Although it is possible to reach this ledge by hiking around the left end of the Third Tier (or around to the right with some 5th class moves; not recommended), climbers have so far found it easier to gain this ledge by climbing one of the routes on the Third Tier; if you climb Hand Therapy, you'll arrive at the base of Rockhound and Poke-O Pup. Rockhound 5.6 G 35' Start: At a right-facing corner on the left side of a short black water-stained wall near the left end of the Fourth Tier, less than 50' from where the Third Tier and Fourth Tier merge. P1 5.6 G: Up the corner, exit left near the top. 35' FA10/08: Ken Nichols, Mark Bealor Poke-O Pup 5.8 G 35' Harder for short climbers. Named for Bealor's dog, which was found wandering stray below the Main Face of Poke-O several years earlier. Start: At a shallow right-facing corner below some vertical cracks in the black water-stained wall, 6' right of the Rockhound corner. P1 5.8 G: Follow the corners and cracks to the top. 35' FA Oct 2008: Mark Bealor, Ken Nichols Defiant Eyes 5.11d PG 40' The runout through the crux is above bomber nuts. Start: At a vertical crack 30' right of Poke-O Pup. P1 5.11d PG: Climb the crack and a small left-facing corner, then up the face to a larger right-facing corner. Stretch up left to the arête and pull over the top. 40' FA Oct 2008: Ken Nichols Lakeview 5.7 G 50' Great views of Lake Champlain. Start: At a left-facing crack that leads up right to a ledge with a large perched flake, 40' right of Defiant Eyes. P1 5.7 G: Up the crack to the ledge, pull up onto the perched flake, then follow a large open book to the top. 50' FA Oct 2008: Ken Nichols, Mark Bealor True North 5.10b G 60' Continually interesting and beautiful to look at. Requires skills in placing small nuts. Named for a book by Jim Harrison. Start: At a thin crack below an attractive 5"-deep left-facing corner that curves up the face, 8' right of a prominent arête and 50' right of the Lakeview crack. P1 5.10b G: Climb the crack and follow the corner up right to the top. 60' Gear: Two #6 Crack'n Ups (hook-like pitons by Black Diamond) were used on the first ascent. FA Oct 2008: Mark Bealor, Ken Nichols Perfect Pitch 5.10b G 70' Named for the aesthetic quality of this stunning corner, like Frosted Mug at the Upper Beer Wall. Start: At a flawless left-facing corner with a short offwidth section, 80' right of the prominent arête (the arête that is 8' left of True North). P1 5.10b G: Up the beautiful corner until just below the top. Finish up a short vertical crack to the left. 70' FA Oct 2008: Ken Nichols, Mark Bealor
V2 Judge Judy 5.11a G FA (V2) Aug 23, 2008: Chris Yenkey, Jim Lawyer Northern Revival 5.12c PG 360' [Between routes #7 and #8, page 202] Follows the right-facing corner system just right of Too Wet to Plow. Amazing position and unique movement with steep bouldery sequences on pinches and slopey crimps, requiring many small cams in a row. Be mindful of the protection, as several gear placements make the difference between this being reasonable and R-rated. With proper rope management you can combine P1 and P2. The name comes from McCormick getting reinvigorated from climbing in the north country. Start: Same as Wiessner Route. P1 5.5 G: Climb P1 of Wiessner Route to the first big ledge. Traverse to the right end of the ledge below a left-leaning, left-facing corner and belay on small cams. 70' P2 5.10c PG: Follow the left-facing corner system up and left using many long slings to reduce drag later in the pitch. At the top of the corner, step back right past a bolt and continue up past small cam placements and another bolt to a fixed anchor on a hanging ramp. (Note: A red Alien or large HB offset protect the moves to the anchor.) 80' P3 5.12c PG: Work up and right past two bolts (crux) and follow the corner until below a small roof where the crack runs out (black alien under the roof is the only piece that will fit). Run it out up and right to a shallow left-facing corner and good gear. Pull out right around the corner and up the face to a beautiful ledge and fixed anchor. 150' P4 5.9 PG: A wonderfully exposed pitch up the very prow of the wall: head up and left and pull around the left side of an arête. Stay just left of the arête past small gear placements to the top. 60' Gear: RPs, double set of cams to 2", 5 ea 0.4" (#00 C3 or black Alien). Although the gear is thin in the corner, it is solid. FA (P1-P2) Aug 2, 2008: Matt McCormick, Will Roth FA (P4) Aug 7, 2008: Dave Vuono, Matt McCormick FA (complete) Aug 16, 2008: Matt McCormick, Naomi Risch
Backwater Wall is the fourth wall in the Whitewater Wall series. It's set back in the woods and cannot be seen from the road. Directions: Same as for Whitewater Walls (page 153). From Wall #3 (the rightmost of the walls), make your way to the top (go either left or right; both work), then walk straight back into the woods and up along a brook to waterfall in a hollow. Turn right (east) out of the hollow and across the hill to the base of Backwater Wall. The approach takes about 5 minutes from the top of Wall #3. Hydraulic 5.4 X 65' Start: Near the left end of the cliff, 15' right of where path switchbacks left to the top of the cliff, at a small 8'-high promontory of rock at the base of the cliff. P1 5.4 X: Climb the promontory. Step left and then run out the pleasant face to a horizontal crack 40' up (gear). Follow the diagonal feature up and right to finish in a flaring vertical crack. 65' FA Aug 18, 2008: Tom DuBois, Ellen DuBois Cool Water 5.7 G 65' Perhaps the best route here. Start: Same as Hydraulic. P1 5.7 G: Climb the promontory. Step a few feet right to below a small left-facing corner (excellent gear at its base). Climb up into the corner (crux) and up a couple easier, but unprotected moves above (5.5). Easier face and crack climbing leads up and right to the top. 65' 8/18/08: Tom DuBois, Ellen DuBois Rock Hop 5.3 PG 60' Start: Near the center of the cliff, below a ledge 10' up with small maples. P1 5.3 PG: Gain the ledge by climbing in from the right. (Alternatively, make one 5.5 move up the short crack.) Move up into the shallow alcove, and then right and up blocky rock to finish at the birch tree in the center of the cliff. 60' FA Aug 18, 2008: Tom DuBois, Ellen DuBois Swept Away 5.8- G (5.5 R) 70' A one move wonder. Start: 25' right of the maple ledge of Rock Hop, below a large left-diagonaling overhang 12' up, and just left of an 8" tree. P1 5.8- G (5.5 R): Climb easily up the overhang, reaching it a couple feet left of the crack in the overhang (which takes good gear). Break through the overhang, then step right and up into a corner. Climb the corner, and face to the right, to the top (5.5 R). 70' FA Aug 18, 2008: Tom DuBois, Ellen DuBois River Run 5.4 G 50' Start: 25' right of Swept Away, just right of a 10" maple tree, below a blunt rounded section of rock with a network of diagonal cracks. P1 5.4 G: Climb up, then trend left using the network of cracks. Continue up on good horizontals as the angle eases. 50' FA Aug 18, 2008: Tom DuBois, Ellen DuBois
Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber 5.12b PG 80' [Between routes #12 and #13, page 330] Sustained, technical and powerful moves above small intermittent gear; a real testpiece of traditionally-protected climbing. Easily toproped from the Mistah Luthah anchor. Start: At a short fingercrack in a shallow right facing corner 3' left of the arête that divides the Free Wall and the Aid Wall. Also 9' right of Adirondack Black Fly Rancher and 6' left of Mistah Luthah. P1 5.12b PG: Up the initial crack, surge up to a jug, lieback and gaston up the left-trending flakes and punch it back right past the crux bulge on crisp crimps. Finish by sidepulling up both sides of the arête to the fixed anchor at the top of Mistah Luthah. Have a cigar! 80' Gear: Cams from purple C3 (#00) to yellow C3 (#2), 2 ea #3 RPs, other small wires. FA: Unknown FFA Sep 1, 2008: Peter Kamitses, Will Mayo Mistah Luthah 5.12a G 80' [Between routes #12 and #13, page 330] Very cool climbing starting with a crack, then a hard techy face, and finally an amazing 5.10+ fingercrack. Solid for the grade. Start: 15' right of Adirondack Black Fly Rancher below a short fingercrack, 3' right of the arête that divides the Free Wall and the Aid Wall. P1 5.12a: Up the initial crack, then negotiate a thin, technical face past three bolts (crux) to a striking splitter fingercrack. Follow the fingercrack to its top, which is at the right end of the Touch of Class P1 belay ledge at a fixed anchor. 80' Gear: Double set of cams from green C3 to purple Camalot. History: The route was established ground up on aid. The first free ascent party found a rusty piton at mid-height, indicating previous passage, most likely by someone thinking it was Adirondack Black Fly Rancher. With an unknown history, a name was chosen to honor Dennis Luther, a friend and partner of many local climbers, who perished in a climbing accident at Poke-O in 2007. FFA Aug 26, 2008: Will Mayo, Peter Kamitses Ill Fire (linkup) 5.14a PG 140' The most difficult and demanding climbing in the Adirondack Park. Kamitses was finally able to send this after 5 days of effort. Super pumpy and technical. Start: At the Party Ledge. There are various ways to reach the ledge, the easiest being P1 of Coronary Country. P1 5.14a PG: Climb Illuminiscence P2 (5.13d) to where it intersects Fire in the Sky (the belay for Children and Alcohol). Continue left and finish on P2 of Fire in the Sky (5.13c). 140' FA Sep 26, 2008: Pete Kamitses On the approach to Barney Rubble Wall, the book mentions [page 278] "...an attractive wall with a great-looking steep handcrack..." This is the Citrus Wall, a steep sheer wall with a flat, open, grassy base, named for the distinctive orange lichen that graces the route Orange Crush. The cliff, like it's neighbor Barney Rubble Wall, has an open rocky top with excellent views of the Giant, Hurricane, Dix, and the Great Range. Descent: Walk left. Orange Crush 5.10c G 60' Steep crack climbing with an overhanging finish on jugs; juicy and delicious. Start: At a steep handcrack through orange lichen-covered rock, 4' right a prominent right-facing corner that defines the left end of the cliff. P1 5.10c G: Jam up the handcrack to where it widens (4" cam helpful). Hand traverse right and mantel onto a ledge, then step back left to the crack line. Move up to a slot (crux) and finish on steep jugs. Belay from large pine trees on top. 60' Gear: To 4". History: A route this sweet couldn't possibly have escaped notice. Anyone want to claim it? ACB Aug 28, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Jeremy Haas Plumb Line 5.9 G 60' Start: On the right side of the wall, 40' right of Orange Crush, below a handcrack that defines the right side of a black streak. P1 5.9 G: Up the handcrack to its top, step left, and continue up another crack to lower angled rock which is climbed more easily to the top of the wall. Belay from large pine trees on top. 60' Gear: To 2". FA Aug 28, 2008: Jeremy Haas, Jim Lawyer
Hollyrock 5.0 R 60' An easy solo that provides access to the top of the Citrus Wall and the Barney Rubble Wall. The unique rubble is surprisingly solid with many holds. Start: Halfway between the Barney Rubble Wall and the Citrus Wall below a slab with glued-on rubble. P1 5.0 R: Climb up the slab to the rubble, the angle left to the top of the wall. Yabba Dabba Doo 5.10d G 40' Strenuous and height-related; exceedingly difficult for short climbers. Start: 5' uphill and left of the left end of the Barney Rubble Wall, just right of a black streak. P1 5.10d G: Thin face moves lead to a left-facing edge (crux), then move up and right to a good stance. Work up the face past several good horizontal cracks to a final puzzling mantel into a scoop, then step up to the summit. 45' Gear: Draws plus cams 1 ea 1", 0.25". FA Oct 4, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Tad Welch Without a Hitch 5.2 G 35' An easy climb in a spectacular setting below where the overlook trail emerges from the woods. Start: Approach from the top: where the trail meets the cliff, scramble down ramped ledges to the (skiers) right (3rd class). Begin below a fingercrack at a flat slab backed by trees. P1 5.2 G: Climb the fingercrack straight to the overlook above. 35' FA Sep 1, 2008: Daniel Mosny, Kate Mosny
FA (extension) Sep 23, 2008: Pascal Simard, Olivier Ouellet
V1 5.11a G: At the second bolt, step left on small edges to a good handhold on the blunt arête. Join Air Male to the top. FA (V1) Sep 23, 2008: Pascal Simard, Olivier Ouellet Location: Hammond Pond Wild Forest, accessed from Ensign Pond Road Aspect: Southeast Height: 50' Quality: Description: A small cliff, about 50' high and 150' wide, that faces away from the road and overlooks an attractive wetland and meadow, hence the name. It's sits on a small subsidiary bump of Harris Hill off Ensign Pond Road. The woods in this area feature unparalleled natural beauty, so be especially vigilant to keep the area pristine. There are several unclimbed cracks near My Pleasure, and potential for more difficult routes on the left end. There is some loose rock, and the area is wet. Approach: 8 min, easy Directions: From Northway (I-87) Exit 30, travel south on US 9 for 6.8 miles to Caza Turn Road (CR 4) on the left. Turn left, then left again onto Ensign Pond Road. From the Northway (I-87) Exit 29, drive north 2.4 miles to Caza Turn Road (CR 4) on the right. Turn right, then right again onto Ensign Pond Road. Drive east on Ensign Pond Road for 5.8 miles to the Trout Pond trailhead on the left (south) side of the road. Turn around and drive west for 0.4 miles to a widened shoulder on the right side of the road with plenty of room for several cars 18T 0609944 4874923. This is the first widened shoulder on the right past the yellow "35 MPH" sign. Walk west on the road for 450' to where a stream runs up against the road on the south side. Cross at its narrowest point; there is a cairn on the far side. Turn right and proceed parallel the road for a few feet under some overhanging outcrops. Step up into the woods (cairn), climb the hill, then hike across the flat top of the hill through open woods. As you descend the other side of the hill, you will reach the top of the cliff 18T 610174 4874799. Turn (skier's) right to descend to the base of the cliff at its left end. My Pleasure 5.8 PG 45' Fun moves and reportedly worth the short approach. Start: Moving right from the left end of the cliff, the first major feature is a large right-facing corner capped by roof 35' up. 30' right is a pile of blocks detached from the cliff. Begin just right of this pile of blocks below an obvious crack. P1 5.8 PG: Climb the crack past a small overhang 15' up to the top. 45' Gear: Mostly small: stoppers, small nuts, and cams to 0.5". FA Sep 22, 2008: Tom DuBois, Ellen DuBois Hoops and Yo Yo 5.10a G 120' Start: Same as High Wire. P1 5.9 G: Move right after the first bolt up under bottom of an arête, past three bolts on the arête to fixed anchor 70'. P2 5.10a G: (V1) Go right past a bolt to the bottom of a left-facing corner. Up the corner past 3 bolts to a fixed anchor. 50' V1 Side Show 5.9 PG FA (V1) Sep 2007: Craig Vollkommer, Jessica Donovan War of the Worlds 5.10a G 170' Start: 45' right of High Wire, in the center of a face with a bolt. P1 5.9 PG: Climb up face past 2 bolts to right-facing corner and ledge. From ledge, continue up corner to a fixed anchor. 80' P2 5.10a G: (V1) Follow large corner-roof to its top. Move right and continue up right-leaning crack past a bolt to a horizontal. Continue up crack and horizontals to a fixed anchor. 90' V1 Vendetta 5.10b G FA Oct 2007: Craig Vollkommer, Jessica Donovan FA (V1) Oct 2007: Craig Vollkommer, Jessica Donovan FFA (V1) Aug 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck Not Long For This World 5.8 G 45' [Between routes #7 and #8, page 431] The entire section of cliff is poorly attached to the rest of the mountain, hence the name. Start: On the left wall of the Sizzle Me right-facing corner, at a handcrack running from lower right to upper left. P1 5.8 G: Climb the crack and step up onto a ledge. 45' Gear: Double cams from 1-1/2" to 3". Descent: Walk left to the anchors on Sundowner Crack. FA Nov 19, 2009: Jay Harrison, Jamie McNeill Location: North of NY 149 on the east shore of Lake George, accessed from Northway Exit 20 Aspect: Southwest Height: 160' Quality: *** Description: This long cliff rises above the eastern shore of Lake George. It has long been a curiosity of local climbers, but it wasn't until recently that it's seen development. The cliff features a lot of choss, but the routes documented here (mostly) stick to the better sections of rock. Large talus fields and fresh rock debris skirt the base of this cliff so watch your footing (and poison ivy) as you approach your climbs. As with any recently developed cliffs, helmets are recommended for both the leader and belayer. Test your holds before weighting them and place protection often. The rock is similar to that of nearby Sleeping Beauty, and like its neighbor, has one of the longest climbing seasons in the park. And you can't beat the location—full sun in the afternoon with outstanding views of Lake George. Due to a cell tower at the Sagamore Resort across the lake, the cliff and parking area have good cell reception. The last 4 miles of the road is a steep dirt road that is subject to closure during mud season (April–May) and can be impassable in midwinter after heavy snow. Many of the routes are "modern trad", meaning fixed protection and gear; don't expect many clip ups. The majority of routes are well protected, and all of them have fixed anchors. Bring a standard trad rack with an emphasis on small cams and wires. Four different sections of the cliff have been developed. From left to right, they are the Main Face, Neanderthal Cave, Jackass Buttress and Politico Wall. Camping: Sleeping Beauty and Shelving Rock are on a dead-end dirt road with excellent opportunities for car camping. Designated sites are posted on a map at a kiosk that is found at the Upper Hogtown trailhead where the dirt road begins its steep descent from the large parking area on the right. There's also a good bivvy spot at the base of the cliff (no water). Approach: 4–20 min, easy. Directions: Follow the directions to Sleeping Beauty to the Upper Hogtown trailhead (page 430). Continue on Shelving Rock Road for several miles past a bridge and the Shelving Rock trailhead on the right. Park 0.5 mile past this trailhead at a parking area on the left; this is parking for a carriage road that accesses the shore line, a large lot delineated with boulders 18T 0612838 4823456. Beyond the parking area, the road continues on to private property with no parking or camping. From the parking area, continue down the road for 30', and look for a herd path on the opposite side of the road from the parking area. There is a fallen 3'-diameter tree, 20' up the path that one must step over. Follow the herd path north, contour uphill, and stay below the talus fields and cliff bands to the right. Specific spur trails are described in the approaches to the different cliff sections. History: The cliff is situated above the former Knapp estate. In 1904, George Knapp, co-founder of Union Carbide Corporation, acquired 3500 acres of property, including Shelving Rock and about 6 miles of Lake George shoreline. New York State acquired most of this in 1941. The existing network of carriage roads were converted to a trail system that affords excellent hiking and mountain biking. This section of cliff over 200' long and rises above the highest stretch of the talus field. The Main Face was the first section to be developed, has seen the most climber traffic, and contains the best rock found so far. The left end is at a height of land and has a very large, bottomless, right-facing dihedral 70' up, below which is a giant hanging cedar tree. Most of the routes are approximately 100' long and a few have second pitches that climb to the top of the cliff. Directions: Hike beneath a small talus field above which is the Politico Wall, 2 min from the trailhead. Continue uphill to within 100' of the cliff where the path levels off, near the point where a spur trail on the right (cairn) is reached at 4 min. (This spur trail goes up a forested slope to a broad gully and the Jackass Buttress.) Continue on the main path along a level bench and beneath a larger talus field and the highest section of the cliff. Avoid the temptation to go up to early. Walk past several refrigerator-sized boulders, then climb slightly right to a higher bench. From the higher bench, enter the talus field and cut directly uphill and reach the cliff at the right end of the Main Face 18T 0612781 4823979, about 15 min from the trailhead. Protractor 5.8 PG 80' Angular climbing with Gunks-style roofs and exposure. The final traverse, although easy, has sparse protection. Start: 100' left of the start of Snake Charmer and a bottomless right-facing dihedral 70' up, beneath a large open-book capped by a roof 20' up. P1 5.8 PG: Climb the easy open-book to the roof, then traverse right along a roof crack. Follow the crack that becomes vertical to a higher roof. Traverse left along a wide crack (easy) to an exposed stance beneath a right-facing flake. Go up the flake (strenuous) to a ledge. Traverse right to fixed anchor. 80'. Gear: Standard rack plus an optional 5" cam. FA Jun 16, 2009: Justin Barrett, Jeremy Haas, Tom Rosecrans Snake Charmer 5.9 G 100' Start: Just right of the bottomless right-facing dihedral 70' up, at a blocky, right-facing, left-leaning corner. P1 5.9 G: Up the blocky corner to a vertical right-facing corner at its top. Climb the corner to a handcrack that is climbed to its top. Up ledges, then traverse right to a fixed anchor shared with Hacket Corner. 100' FA May 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Rick Hackett Hackett Corner 5.10a G 100' Steep, featured rock. Often wet. Start: Same as Snake Charmer. P1 5.10a G: Go halfway up the blocky right-facing corner, then up a shallow right-facing corner in black rock to a right-facing slot. Up the slot, then work up and right, staying right of a pointed prow, towards a lone birch tree and fixed anchor just above shared with Snake Charmer. 100' Gear: To 1". FA Sep 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck Grin and Bear It 5.8 PG 100' Start: 10' right of the left-rising, blocky, right-facing corner of Snake Charmer, below a left-facing flake 20' up. P1 5.8 PG: Wander up to the flake, then power to its top on good holds. Continue straight up the face to a right-facing open book, then up to a larger open book that leads to a huge cedar with a fixed anchor. 100' FA May 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck The Price is Right 5.11a G 100' QUALITY Start: Same as Gong Show. P1 5.11a G: Start up Gong Show then go straight up a black slab to the right end of a long overhang. Pull the overhang and climb over a short overhang to a long slab that has an arête at its top. Climb the slab and arête then traverse right to the fixed anchor of Gong Show. 100' FA Jul 18, 2009: Frank Minnuni, Theresa Connolly, Richard Felch The Gong Show 5.9- G 100' A short crux with lots of moderate climbing above makes this route a popular warm up. Start: 25' right of the left-rising blocky corner of Snake Charmer, below the left end of a long ceiling 20' up. P1 5.9- G: Scramble up blocky terrain to the ceiling. Break through the ceiling on its left side at a jug (crux), then right onto the face above the ceiling. Go straight up to a left-facing corner formed by a huge "gong" flake. At the top of the flake, move up and left across a beautiful, clean face to a fixed anchor. 100' Gear: 2–3" cams. FA May 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck Doodle Bug 5.9- PG 100' Sustained and varied climbing. Not as innocent as the name suggests. Often wet. Start: 45' downhill and right of the left-rising blocky corner of Snake Charmer, at a short left-leaning crack that begins at head height with a right-facing corner to its right. P1 5.9- PG: Up the crack (or corner) to a ledge with loose blocks. Step onto a steepening face with dark rock and trend leftwards to a ledge. Reach into a high crack and follow it to a slab. Go up the slab to a right-leaning seam beneath an overhanging wall (small gear). Move up and right to a fixed anchor at the top of an orange streak. 100' FA May 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck Project Starts in an overhanging, right-facing corner 10' to the right of the Doodle Bug corner. Climb the corner until it is possible to move left onto a steep slab (5.10c). Move up and left across a steep, juggy wall that is very close to Doodle Bug. Go up a shear wall (crux) with a 4'-long overhang to the left. Easier climbing leads to a bulging, broad arête. From the right side, weave across the arête and make tough exit on the left. And easy slab ends at the fixed anchor of Doodle Bug anchor. Footloose 5.10d PG (5.4 R) 180' P1 has good stances from which to place overhead protection and makes for a good warm up. P2 is long, involved and has a desperate (but well protected) crux. Start: 60' uphill and left of the lowest point of the cliff and 20' right of the Doodle Bug corner, at a right-leaning hand- and off-width crack. P1 5.10a G: Up the crack to a ledge beneath tiered overhangs. Mantle onto a small ledge then pull an overhang to a slab. Go over another overhang and traverse a slab to the right. Step up into a right-facing corner and follow a slab up and right to a fixed anchor. 90' P2 5.10d (5.4 R): Continue up the slab and right-facing corner. Make a long reach to the right and pull onto another slab and right-facing corner. When the slab ends, climb up through rotten rock (5.4 R) to a bottomless right-facing corner. Climb the left wall of the corner (watch for rope drag) to an exposed stance beneath a right-rising fin. Layback the fin (crux) and pull onto a ledge beneath a deep V-slot. Stem the slot and exit left onto blocky terrain. Belay at a tree with a fixed anchor. 90' Gear: Standard rack with many long slings. Descent: Rappel 90' down the slot (on P2) to the fixed anchor atop Just Take It. FA (P1) Sep 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck FA (P2) May 2009: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck Project [This route is not yet ready for leading] Start: 15' left of Just Take It at an overhanging wall with right-leaning cracks. Alternatively, begin 10' further left beneath an open book with an orange, crack-laden left wall that goes to a slab 20' up. P1 5.11a PG: Climb to the upper (and most prominent) crack and follow it right. Move up onto the right side of a slab 20' up. Go up a steep orange wall (which is left of a ledge) to a short ceiling (crux). Pass the ceiling and continue straight up a steep slab to the fixed anchor of Footloose. FA Aug 3, 2009: Justin Barrett, Tom Rosecrans Just Take It 5.11d G 100' Start: 20' uphill and left Rusty Lumberjack below a left-facing, light-colored flake. P1 5.11d G: Up the flake (2" cam), right through a bulge to a right-facing right-leaning corner. Break out left from the corner, then straight up the face to a fixed anchor. 100' Gear: 1 ea 2" cam. FA Aug 2008: Ian Measeck, Craig Vollkommer Rusty Lumberjack 5.11c PG 100' Start: At a refrigerator-sized boulder at the lowest point of the cliff. P1 5.11c PG: Up the sandy, flaky face, then up a right-facing open book to a ceiling. Break left, then up a right-leaning dihedral with a crack. At its top, go up the orange face to an overlap, then right to a fixed anchor shared with Claim Jumper. 100' Gear: To 1.5". FA Feb 2008: Ian Measeck, Craig Vollkommer Claim Jumper 5.11b G 100' Start: 10' right of Rusty Lumberjack below a low ceiling with a shattered left-facing corner above it. P1 5.11b G: Up the corner, then through an orange ceiling (crux) to an overhang. Through the overhang, then up an orange face. Break right, then straight up to a fixed anchor shared with Rusty Lumberjack. Gear: To 1.5". FA Feb 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck Project X 5.11d G 100' Start: 20' right of Rusty Lumberjack at a chest-high ceiling with a broken slab above it. P1 5.11d G: Up the slab to the right end of a ceiling, then power through the ceiling on crimpy holds (1st crux) to a stance. Over a second ceiling, up an orange face, then follow a right-leaning crack to a fixed anchor. 100' Gear: To 1.5". FA Aug 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck Infinity and Beyond 5.10b PG 180' Start: Below the left side of a large, detached flake below a prominent right-leaning crack that defines the left side of a clean shield of white rock. The start is where the terrain begins to slope steeply downward to the left. P1 5.10b PG: Climb the left side of the flake to its top then step onto the cliff where the crack bulges. Follow the crack and featured face to a left-leaning rail. Traverse left from the rail (wingspan dependent) and mantel onto a sloping stance below a vertical crack. Go up the crack to the fixed anchor shared with Project X. 90' P2 5.10c G: Continue up the crack that leans to the right. Move up and left across easier, but rotten, rock to the final headwall. Go up, then left through roof systems to a fixed anchor at the top. 90' Descent: Rappel the route FA (P1) Nov 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Maeseck, Mira Schwartz FA (P2) Nov 2008: Ian Maeseck, Craig Vollkommer, Mira Schwartz Monty Python 5.10b PG 180' Start: At the high point of the terrain, 10' right of a large, detached, blocky flake, and 25' left of the large left-facing corner of Shake and Bake. P1 5.10a G: Up a gray face, then trend left to a right-leaning, left-facing ramp. Up the ramp to a left-facing flake. Follow the flake to its top, then angle right across the wall following a crack to a ledge beneath a headwall. Up the headwall to a left-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor. 100' P2 5.10b PG: Traverse 25' left on the ledge to the fixed anchor of Knights That Say Neigh. Go up and left to a small ledge, then up a clean corner with small crack. Work up the crack a few feet then step left around an arête and continue up face to a fixed anchor. 80' Descent: Rappel to Knights That Say Neigh anchor, then another rappel to the ground. FA (P1) Jan 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Jessica Donovan FA (P2) Nov 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck Knights That Say Neigh 5.10d PG (5.8R) 90' Start: Same as Monty Python. P1 5.10d PG: Begin Monty Python: go up a gray face, trend left to a right-leaning, left-facing ramp.. Climb a thin crack in a shear face that is left of the right-rising slab of Monty Python. When the crack ends at a left-rising overhang, go over it and into the prominent right-rising, right-facing ceiling that cuts across the cliff. Traverse right for 10' until it is possible to break the ceiling and onto the face above. Follow a horizontal crack to the left then go up a vertical crack to fixed anchors on a ledge. 90' FA Jun 2009: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck Holy Grail 5.10c PG 100' QUALITY Start: On a table-sized boulder at the height of land, midway between a large, detached flake on the left and a large, left-facing corner on the right. P1 5.10c PG: Climb up to a ceiling that has a short, 5"-wide, parallel-sided slot. Go up the slot and climb a short open book to a vertical face. Work up the face past a vertical crack to a ledge, then join Monty Python—up the headwall to a left-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor. 100' FA ????: Ian Measeck, Craig Vollkommer Project Begin at the fixed anchors at the top of P1 of Monty Python. A line of bolts extends above the anchor and begins with a ledge then follows right-facing flakes and overhangs. Open project (5.12?). Shake and Bake 5.8- G 80' Often wet, but a convenient way to the top of the buttress. Start: At the height of land in a large, left-facing corner on the left side of a clean buttress. P1 5.8- G: Up the corner to a fixed anchor at the top of the buttress. 80' FA Apr 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck Stake and Cake 5.10a PG 180' Start: Just right of the left-facing corner of Shake and Bake, below the prow of a clean buttress. P1 5.10a PG: Up an open book in the prow of the buttress (5" cam on the left), then up the prow to another open book that is climbed a fixed anchor at the top of the buttress. 80' P2 5.9 + PG: Go up a short corner to a ledge and traverse to its right end. Move right over an overhang to the base of a right-leaning, right-facing corner. The corner defines the right end of the tall, black wall with tiered overhangs. Follow the corner until it is possible to break out left and climb to a fixed anchor. 90' Gear: To 1" plus 1 ea 5" cam. FA (P1) Apr 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck FA (P2) Jun 2009: Craig Vollkommer, Diane Dumouchel Wake and Bake 5.10a G 180' Climbs the clean face right of the prow of Stake and Cake. Start: At the base of a right-facing corner, which is the next corner to the right of the large Shake and Bake corner. P1 5.10a G: Up easy rock to an overlap. Move right then climb the center of the face until it is possible to traverse left (crux) to the top of the buttress. Scramble to the fixed anchor shared with the neighboring routes. 80' P2 5.10b G: Go up a short corner to a ledge and traverse to its right end (same as Stake and Cake P2). Start up a black-streaked wall with tiered overhangs, then up to a right-rising overhang that is above light-colored rock. Move over the overhang then make a rising traverse to a fixed anchor on the right (shared with Stake and Cake). 90' Gear: To 1". FA (P1) Apr 2008: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck FA (P2) Jun 2009: Craig Vollkommer, Ian Measeck Directions: 200' right of where the main herd path reaches the Main Face, go slightly downhill along the cliff base to a steep, blocky arête with a sheer overhanging right-hand wall. Protruding Forehead begins to the right of this arête. Further right the wall become concave and has five, large right-facing corners that are above a stepped slab. Devo 5.7+ G 95' Start: At a low-angled face left around corner of the Neanderthal Cave. P1 5.7+ G: Climb face through 3 bulging overhangs angling slightly right after the third to a steep wall. Continue straight up and then slightly left to a fixed anchor on thin slab. 95' FA Nov 5, 2009: Tom Rosecrans, Justin Barrett Project Begins 15' left of the arête at a blocky, less-than-vertical wall with a right-rising, right-facing corner 30' up. Above the corner is a slab beneath a steep wall that leads to a left-facing corner at the top. Protruding Forehead 5.11a PG 60' Start: Midway along the overhanging wall and beneath an orange-striped flake with horn 15' up. P1 5.11a PG: Up the flake to the horn to gain a right-rising crack. Follow the crack to the right, through an A-frame overhang 25' up. Continue along the crack then work up the shear face to a ledge. Step left and climb parallel right-rising cracks to a fixed anchor. 60' Gear: To 1.5". FA Apr 2009: Ian Measeck, Craig Vollkommer Project Appears to climb one of the corners to the left of Knuckle-Dragger. Knuckle-Dragger 5.9 G 80' Start: At blocks that lead up to a sloping dirt ledge. P1 5.8- G: Scramble up to a thin, vertical crack and climb it to the right end of a long, right-facing overhang. Go around the right end of the overhang and up to a stance beneath a long, right-facing corner capped by a ceiling. Climb flakes and move around the right end of the ceiling (crux). Step left across a slab to regain the corner that is followed to its top and a fixed anchor on the right. 80' FA Apr 2009: Craig Vollkommer, Justin Barrett Cro-Magnon 5.10c PG 80' Start: On a sloping dirt ledge, scramble up blocks from the base of the cliff. P1 5.10c PG: Follow ledges to a slab beneath a right-facing corner. Move left to a thin vertical crack on the right side on a blunt arête. Up a thin crack (crux) that is followed by a shallow, right-facing corner and the fixed anchor shared with Knuckle-Dragger. 80' FA Apr 2009: Craig Vollkommer, Justin Barrett Homo 5.7 PG 50' Start: On a sloping dirt ledge, scramble up blocks from the base of the cliff. P1 5.8 G: Follow ledges to a slab beneath a right-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor. 50' FA Apr 2009: Craig Vollkommer, Justin Barrett Project Located 200' right of the Neanderthal Cave and 200' left of the Jackass Buttress at the tallest section of cliff. The cliff base has tons of debris, room-sized boulders, and no trees. Climbs left of a huge rock scar and follows shattered black rock for P1, then traverses right (P2), then up the right side of a large buttress (P3). Description: This buttress forms the left (north) wall of a broad gully that separates the cliffband into two sections. The base of the buttress extends uphill to the left (towards The O'Barrett Factor), where it merges with the tallest section of the cliff, and uphill to the right (towards Winds of Change) where it diminishes in height at the top of the gully. Directions: Up the main herd path for 4 minutes to a spur path on the right (cairn). Follow the spur path as it climbs a forested slope and enters a 70'-wide talus gully that provides access to summit. Stay left to reach the northern edge of the gully and arrive at the cliff, near The Cold Bare Rapport, at 8 min. Old School 5.8 G 60' Vollkommer's first route at Shelving Rock. Start: At the top of the hill, at a slab that is below a left-facing corner. P1 5.10a PG: Follow the corner to a tree with a fixed anchor. 60' FA Nov 2007: Craig Vollkommer, Jessica Donovan The O'Barrett Factor 5.10a PG 100' Start: At the left side of the buttress, uphill and 40' left of where the approach trail reaches the cliff base, at a large cedar stump. P1 5.10a PG: Climb an easy flake and go left to a short slab that is beneath a 1' x 1' overhang. Above the overhang is a tall, clean orange face; climb the left side of the face to a tree with a fixed anchor. 100' FA Nov 12, 2008: Justin Barrett, Tom Rosecrans Democralypse Now 5.10a G 100' Still some loose stuff to be cleaned. Start: 15' left of where the spur path reaches the cliff at a chest-high, right-facing overhang beneath a 15'-tall slab. P1 5.10a G: Climb the slab to a ceiling that becomes a right-facing corner. Move right over a bulge and into the right-facing corner. Exit left onto a slab and climb up to a steep wall with tiered overhangs. Work over the overhangs then step left around a large right-facing corner to a tall, clean orange face. Climb the right side of the face to a fixed anchor. 90' Gear: To 1". FA Nov 8, 2008: Tom Rosecrans, John Weston The Cold Bare Rapport 5.8- G 90' Start: Between two, 8'-tall blocky pillars that are beneath a triangle-shaped face with a horn on top, where the spur path meets the cliff. P1 5.8- G: Climb the triangle-shaped face, step left onto a slab that is crossed to its left side. Step left over the right end of tiered overhangs, move toward a right-facing corner and then climb up and right across a slab to a fixed anchor. 90' Gear: 1 ea 0.5" cam. FA Nov 8, 2008: Tom Rosecrans, John Weston Indecision '08 5.7 TR 75' Begin around on the right side of the buttress, facing the gully, at a left-rising crack just left of Winds of Change. Climb the crack to the fixed anchor shared with Winds of Change. FA Nov 3, 2008: Tom Rosecrans Winds of Change 5.8 G 75' Start: From where the approach trail reaches the base of the cliff, walk 30' right, then 30' up the gully along a steep herd path. Begin at three, 5'-tall, right-facing right-leaning corners below a jutting, diamond-shaped block. P1 5.8 G: Step up to the block and go over it to a featured face. Climb past a right-rising crack and a bulge to a left-rising crack that is followed to a ledge. Go up and right to a fixed anchor on top of the buttress. 75' Gear: To 1". FA Nov 11, 2008: Robert Livingston, Tom Rosecrans Description: Right of the wide gully that separates the cliff into two sections is a low cliffband. The Politico Wall is roughly centered in this cliff band, faces the lake and is close enough to the dirt road that it can be seen from the routes. Caribou Barbie and Obama Mama are squeezed together and Prima Facie is 100' to the right. Watch for loose rock down low. Directions: Follow the main herd path for 2 min to several refrigerator-sized boulders at the base of a small talus field and a cairn with metal tube and rock on top. Leave the herd path and go up and slightly right to a high point of the cliff base and the starts of Caribou Barbie and Obama Mama. Caribou Barbie 5.10a G 90' Sustained with a steep start and a difficult-to-clip first bolt. Start: Beneath a chocolate-colored streak that begins 8' up and a short, shattered pillar on the left. P1 5.10a G: A committing start to a jug and a high first bolt, then easier climbing to a ledge beneath a short buttress. Go up the right side of the buttress (very close to Obama Mama) to another ledge. Climb a gray slab that is left of a long black streak, then move left to gain a right-rising, thin crack. Follow the crack to its end and make a tough high step (crux) onto a bulging wall near the top. Fixed anchor. 90' Gear: To 1". FA Oct 2008: Tom Rosecrans, Justin Barrett Obama Mama 5.8+ G 90' Watch the clip on the second bolt; after that, the route is 5.6. Start: A few feet left of a vegetated chimney crack. P1 5.8+ G: Up steep juggy rock moving left over a bulge to a thin face, then up a shallow left-facing corner to a fixed anchor. 90' FA Oct 2008: Tom Rosecrans, Brie Rosecrans, Robert Livingston Prima Facie 5.7+ G 75' This section of cliff, closest to the parking area, defined the extreme right end of the climbable rock. The name means "at first sight", as it was the first line in this section of cliff. Start: 100' right of Obama Mama and 90' left of the extreme right side of the cliff at a short, waist-high ledge beneath a short overhang 15' up. P1 5.7+ G: Work over the overhang, then go up a face past some huecos and pockets and into a shallow, left-facing corner. Up the corner and face above to a fixed anchor. 75' Gear: 2–3" cams FA Jul 2008: Randy Hibshman, Craig Vollkommer Ward Cleaver 5.11c G 60' [This route replaces route #22, page 273] Multiple barn-door cruxes; super clean and super fun. Start: 10' left of the No Name chimney below a bladelike arête. P1 5.11c G: Climb the arête to a tree at the top with a fixed anchor. 60' Gear: Draws and 1 yellow Alien. History: Originally a toprope problem (Patrick Purcell, 5/1/88). FA Oct 10, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Jeff Gilroy Master of the Flying Guillotine 5.11b G 70' [Between routes #23 and #24, page 273.] Climbs the orange arête high on the right side of the gully; the arête resembles a ship's prow. Intricate and unlikely with fantastic exposure. Named for a classic 1975 martial arts film of the same name, and for the blade-like arête that is the central feature of the route. Start: 25' uphill from Tsunami Slap-Up, on the right side of the gully, below a 6'-high left-facing corner that begins above a shelf 6' up. P1 5.11b G: Mantel onto the shelf, climb the corner, then up to the top of a right-rising ramp. Step left onto an orange face and work left to the prow-like arête. Up the overhanging arête using both faces (crux) to a ledge at the top with a fixed anchor. 70' Gear: The start requires gear to 0.75", then draws. FA Nov 7, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Mark Bealor Tsunami Slap-Up 5.12a G 70' [Between routes #23 and #24, page 273. On the topo on page 273, this route ascends the feature labeled "orange tower".] Climbs a beautiful overhanging prow on the left side of the Main Face. Technical, sequency, and pumpy. Great photo opportunities from a shelf on the opposite side of the gully. Start: On the left side of the Main Face is a steep, rubble-filled gully that separates the Main Face from the Ward Cleaver Buttress. Begin below the striking overhanging prow on the right side of the gully at a short staircase of incut holds. P1 5.12a G: Up the staircase of holds, then up an orange face to a triangular incut bucket on the arête. Bump and slap up the overhanging arête to a fixed anchor at the top. Hint: don't clip the last bolt. 70' Gear: Draws. FA Oct 18, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Emilie Drinkwater, Rayko Halitschke FFA Nov 6, 2008: Jim Lawyer, Will Mayo Land of the Little People 5.8 PG 120' [Left of route #24, page 273. On the topo on page 273, this route ascends the feature with the "ow" label.] Bummer if you're not tiny—take the Normal People variation. Start: At the low point on the main face, downhill and left of Sports Psychology, below an obvious S-shaped offwidth crack. P1 5.8 PG: Up the offwidth crack to an overhanging flake that forms a chimney. (V1) Squirm up the tight chimney to the top of the flake. Continue up and right, then straight up a crack to a lichen-covered slab to the top. 120' V1 Normal People 5.9 PG: At the base of the overhanging flake, step right and climb the outside of the flake to its top, then continue with the normal route. Gear: To 6". Descent: The route ends on a tree-covered ledge; rappel from trees. FA Oct 18, 2008: Leslie Ackerman, Scott Ulrich, Rayko Halitschke Some Things Considered 5.9+ TR 90' Begin 15' left of Force Nine and climb the left-facing corner and open book to the sloped ledge. FA Nov 7, 2008: Mark Bealor Caveman Crack 5.8 G 50' Far below the main cliff is a jumble of herd paths to many caves and fissures. Near these herd paths is this striking, clean, right-leaning handcrack in orange rock, facing southwest. A toprope can be set with large gear (hexes) in a horizontal crack at the top. Start: Follow the Chimney Mountain trail from Chimney Mountain Wilderness Lodge (see page 537) for about 30 minutes to a 5'-high rock step in the trail. Take the left herd path below the rock step and traverse the hillside for 2 minutes to the cliff 18T 563200 4838067. Beware of many misleading herd paths and deep holes in the ground. Begin below the obvious right-rising crack on the orange wall. P1 5.8 G: Up the right-rising crack. After 30', the crack narrows to fingers through a bulge (crux). Continue up on small edges to the top. 50' FA Oct 12, 2008: Dan Mosny, Kate Mosny Caveman's Hairy Backside 5.4 G 50' Quite a bit of lichen (hence hairy backside) and some loose rock and flakes. Start: 50' right of Caveman Crack, just around the corner from large flakes and unfortunate graffiti (it's fading, thank goodness) and 10' left of a small cave, below vertical parallel cracks. P1 5.4 G: Climb up cracks to less steep climbing above, staying close to the corner to the left. Finish at a small birch on top. 50' FA Aug 20, 2009: Dan Mosny, Kate Mosny Overlap It Up 5.4 PG 80' Very nice top area with great views and easy set up of toprope anchors. Start: Follow herd paths directly uphill from behind Caveman Wall until you reach another large wall (about 75 yards). Begin near the left end of the wall below two 2' overlaps 10' up. P1 5.4 PG: Undercling your way over the overlaps (gear) staying right of a small birch. Go up the relatively clean and easier, but sparsely protected slab to the blocky top. 80' FA Sep 5, 2009: Dan Mosny, Kate Mosny This crag is east of the true summit of Chimney Mountain, facing Bullhead Mountain. The cliff has good potential with the best rock yet found on Chimney Mountain—none of the characteristic rotten layers found on the other crags. Directions: Scramble east and slightly right from the true summit down a broken and vegetated upper slab to a large pine tree 18T 563684 4838035. Scramble down to the (skier's) left of the pine, step down into a 4'-wide cleft and wiggle through a rabbit hole to emerge in a vegetated left-facing corner. Rappel from a fixed anchor on a pine tree to the base of the slab; a 60m rope just makes it. Sunfall 5.6 G 170' A nice climb, too bad the steep crack portion isn't longer. From the end of P1, a 3rd class scramble upwards with a 4th class move in the left-facing corner takes you to the top. Start: First locate Ray's Ascent. From here, scramble down a couple small steep sections, and around a large left-facing corner. Begin 20' left of the corner below a couple of cracks. P1 5.6 G: Climb 10' up and into a semi-flat scooped out area. Work up the clean, zigzag crack in the vertical wall (crux), then pull over the top of the wall onto the slab above. Continue up easier slab moving towards the right to take advantage of cracks for gear and over a couple of overlaps to belay just to the right of the pine tree in the middle of the slab. 170' FA Sep 26, 2009: Dan Mosny, Kate Mosny Ray's Ascent 5.5 G 160' Start: From the rappel, walk left, scramble down 10' at a large boulder, then move to a position below an overhanging left-facing corner that arches up to a ceiling. P1 5.5 G: Straight up along the base of the corner using a good crack. Pass to the right of two birch trees (V1) and move up and under the overhang. Traverse awkwardly right under the overhang, pass an offwidth crack that breaks the ceiling, and continue to a weakness in the wall directly below the rappel. Pull through the weakness to the rappel tree. 160' V1 5.4 G: At the second birch, instead of moving up under the overhang, traverse across the slab at the bottom of the step below the ceiling. FA Sep 19, 2009: Dan Mosny, Kate Mosny Bullhead 5.0 X 60' Used to access the top, easier than scrambling around the far end of the slab. Start: 50' right of the rappel. P1 5.0 X: Climb straight up the slab to an easy exit. FA Sep 19, 2009: Dan Mosny (solo)
Brinksmanship 5.5 R 280' Start: Between The Grand Game and Crucible of War. P1 5.5 R: Up the slab following small left- and right-facing features to the white scar between The Grand Game and Crucible of War. Traverse right to the Crucible or War fixed anchor. 125' P2 5.5 PG: Traverse back left to the white scar, then straight up to overhang. Traverse right to the fixed anchor of Kings and Desperate Men. 145' FA Oct 8, 2008: Tom Rosecrans, Royce Van Evera Prints of Darkness 5.9 G (5.5 R) 285' This route is an extension of Pieces of Eight. [Route #18, page 460] Start: At the P1 anchor of Pieces of Eight. P1 5.9 G (5.5 R): Up and slightly right (no pro, 5.5) to bulge. Over bulge (bolt) to overlap. Work up and slightly left (crux) to line of bolts that lead to a good ledge and fixed anchor. 100' P2 5.8 G: Straight up to series of overlaps (small cams). Step left above a square block to a slab (bolt) that leads to the intersection with the crack of Two Bits. Up a few feet, then left on smile-shaped rounded ledge. Straight up pure friction past bolts to easier rock where it meets the fixed anchor at the top of Little Finger. 185' Gear: To 1". Descent: Rappel the route. FA Oct 10, 2008: Tom Rosecrans, Brie Rosecrans
V1 Lizard Head 5.6 G: On the face below the hole, work up and left to finish on the left side of the cantilevered triangular block. FA Sep 2007: Ken Nichols, Fausta Esguerra Lost in the Thicket 5.6 G 40' [Left of route #1, page 426] Start: At the left end of the cliff, 80' to the left of the chimney, at crack that begins at the ground as a seam and widens to hand-size at a horizontal crack 15' up. P1 5.6 G: Follow the crack to some ledges, step right, then climb another short vertical crack just left of a short left-facing corner. 40' FA Sep 2008: Ken Nichols, Boris Itin Spruce Crack 5.7 G 40' [Left of route #1, page 426] Start: At a ledge at waist height that has a 2'-wide gap with a vertical fingercrack that disappears 15' up. P1 5.7 G: Follow the crack then face climb to a wide horizontal crack. Traverse right and go up a left-facing corner then move right to finish. 40' FA Sep 2007: Ken Nichols Happy Trails to You 5.9 G 45' [Left of route #1, page 426] Start: At a vertical seam with a horn at head height that is at the right end of a waist-high ledge. P1 5.9 G: Follow the seam then move right to another seam in a right-facing corner. Move up to a bulge that is climbed to a horizontal crack. Finish in a bottomless, left-facing corner. 45' Gear: Standard rack plus a pink Tricam and a #3 Friend below the crux. FA Sep 2007: Ken Nichols Ranger Danger 5.6 G 50' [Left of route #1, page 426] Start: 50' to the left of the chimney at a crack that begins 5' up and has a 6"-wide section at 8'. P1 5.6 G: Up the crack to a ledge that is capped by an overhang, continue up the crack (in a right-facing corner) and climb a short chimney to a rounded right-facing corner at the top. 50' FA Sep 2007: Ken Nichols, Fausta Esguerra Fogbound 5.7 G 50' [Left of route #1, page 426] Start: At the left end of a long, waist-high ledge, below a left-rising crack that goes to a ledge 20' up (the ledge is shared with Ranger Danger). P1 5.7 G: Up the crack and go past the ledge to an overhang that is climbed to a wide crack that widens to offwidth near the top. 50' FA Sep 2008: Boris Itin, Ken Nichols Gorillas in the Mist 5.8 G 65' [Left of route #1, page 426] Start: Same as Fogbound, at a crack that ends at two horizontal cracks 25' up. P1 5.8 G: Up the crack to the highest horizontal crack. Move up right along another thin crack, then exit up left at the top. 65' FA Sep 2008: Ken Nichols, Boris Itin The Wrong Crack 5.9 PG 65' [Between routes #1 and #2, page 426] Hard if you're short. Start: Same as The Wright Crack, below a thin vertical crack. P1 5.9 PG: Up the crack to a ceiling 8' up. Pull over the ceiling and go up to a stance below a bulge. Make long reach toward a horizontal crack that is broken by a short vertical crack. Follow ledges up and left, and finish in a right-facing corner that is 7' right of The Wright Crack. 65' FA Sep 2008: Boris Itin, Ken Nichols Knock the Cairn Down 5.8+ TR 65' [Between routes #1 and #2, page 426] Begin 20' right of The Wright Crack and 15' left of Wright Wrong Chimney at a short left-slanting crack above a sharp right-pointing end of a long narrow ledge. Follow the crack to a steep face that leads to another short crack. Work up past a series of ledges and short faces to the highest part of the cliff. FA9/08: Ken Nichols Disappearing Act 5.6 G 65' [Between routes #3 and #4, page 426] Start: In the center of the cliff is a large white spot 8' up, with a zigzag 10'-high right-facing corner bordering its left side. Begin at the base of this corner. P1 5.6 G: Up the corner, or the face to the left, then over a bulge to a stance. Step right and follow a right-rising crack to a prominent horizontal crack. Finish in a short, shallow left-facing corner. 65' FA Sep 2007: Ken Nichols, Fausta Esguerra The Wright Stuff 5.11b TR 65' [Between routes #4 and #5, page 426] Begin 8' right of B-47 and 5' left of Perilous Journey at the right-hand of two short left-leaning cracks. Climb past the crack to a ledge, then traverse 5' left to within 2' of the right-facing corner of B-47. Work straight up the face past a small overlap to a shallow vertical scoop on the upper part of the cliff, then to the top above the left side of the scoop. FA Sep 2007: Ken Nichols
V2 Dangerous Game 5.7 X: At the start of P2, follow the diagonal crack (of the Regular Route) to its end, then go straight up the face to a bulge. Pull over the bulge (crux), then straight up the whitish face (100' runout, 5.6) until even with the top of the right-leaning corner of P3. Traverse 10' left to belay at the top of the corner. This is a long pitch (200'). V3 Roast Turkey 5.7 X: At the start of P3, go up the wide crack for a few feet, then step left around the corner (crux) onto a blank face. Go straight up the face to belay at a flake just below the birch trees. History: Every square inch of rock on Chapel Pond Slab has been climbed at some point, and very little is known about who did what and when. We have Ken Nichols to thank for these descriptions; he climbed Dangerous Game on 9/08 with Fausta Esguerra, and Roast Turkey on 11/87 with Sarah Locher.
V1 Leila's Line 5.7 R: Similar to the climbing on Thanksgiving. Ascend V1 of Regular Route to the right-rising dike. Move up and left onto the slab until 5' right of the huge left-facing corner of Empress. Staying close to the corner, work up the slab until the angle eases. Belay as for Empress. History: Every square inch of rock on Chapel Pond Slab has been climbed at some point, and very little is known about who did what and when. This variation was climbed by R.L. Stolz and Leila Rosenthall on 8/24/08.
This cliff, mentioned on page 480, is reasonably tall but doesn't offer the best protection. Pinus Strobus 5.8 G 80' The name is latin for "eastern white pine". The start is unprotected 5.4. Start: 25' left and up from Tablerock, below a low-angle 20'-tall slab leading to a ledge with trees on either end. P1 5.8 G: Climb the unprotected slab to the ledge. Work up to an alcove formed by a left-facing corner and right-leaning crack. (This alcove is right of a large pine tree growing up against the wall.) Go up the alcove and overhang at its apex, then wrestle a sapling to gain the top. 80' FA May 16, 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) This cliff is described on page 480 of the guidebook as a "minor cliff". Due to recent activity by local Jay Harrison, this now appears to be a destination cliff. All of the routes can be toproped. All routes begin on steep terrain, but finish on low-angle friction with sparse protection. Directions: You pass this cliff on the way to Brown Slab. Specifically, after the summit trail crosses the rocky creek bed, head left toward an obvious, spacious ledge called the Viewpoint Ledge. Skirt the eastern (skier's left) edge of the cliff to reach the bottom of the cliff. You arrive at the cliff at its right end. The easiest routes to identify are Every Creature's Theme, Scenic Slip, and Puzzle. The entire cliff base is less than 100' wide. Every Creature's Theme 5.5 PG (5.2 R) 130' [Mentioned on page 480] Start: At the far left side of the cliff below a left-facing corner that diminishes up higher to a rounded flap. P1 5.5 PG (5.3 R): (V1, V2) Climb the corner to its end, then friction to the birch and spruce belay tree station on the far left edge of the Viewpoint Ledge. 130' V1 5.7 TR: Friction up the slab left of the corner. V2 5.4 G (5.3 R): Begin 8' right of the corner and climb a crack–corner on the right that joins the route 12' up. FA Jun 1993: Jay Harrison (solo) Fifty-Foot Fright Fest 5.9+ TR 130' Begin 5' right of the V2 variation of Every Creature's Theme (or 13' right of the start of Every Creature's Theme), at the lowest point of the slab. A bouldery lunge and mantle to small edges lead to tenuous friction climbing, staying 8' right of Every Creature's Theme. Belay as for Every Creature's Theme. FA May 2008: Jay Harrison Slab Happy 5.8 TR 130' The best exercise in pure friction at the cliff. Begin 8' right of the lowest point on the slab at a left-rising crack that fades 12' up. This is 20' right of Every Creature's Theme. Up the crack to its top, then up the right side of the blunt nose (crux) on continuously tricky friction for thirty feet to easier ground. Belay as for Every Creature's Theme. FA May 2008: Jay Harrison The Good Book 5.8 TR 130' Begin 4' right of the left-rising crack of Slab Happy, below a shallow open book. Climb up to and through the open book, then straight up the friction slab, meeting Scenic Slip just above the corner. Belay same as Every Creature's Theme. FA May 2008: Jay Harrison Scenic Slip 5.7 PG 130' Start: 20' right of the left-rising crack of Slab Happy at a left-rising seam that becomes a sharply-defined, left-facing, left-slanting corner. P1 5.7 PG: Climb the left-rising seam and left-facing corner to its top, then go straight up to Viewpoint Ledge. Belay as for Every Creature's Theme, or in the tree island on Viewpoint Ledge. 130' FA May 28, 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Golden Dreams 5.10 TR 130' Begin below the orange face 3' right of Scenic Slip at a double-edged flake. Up the flake onto the face. Work up the left edge of the orange rock, then move toward the center of the orange rock. Join Viewpoint Crack just before the overhang above the grass island. Viewpoint Crack 5.6 PG 130' Start: 13' right of Scenic Slip, at a left-leaning crack that begins at a small overhang 12' up. P1 5.6 PG: Delicately gain the crack (crux) which is climbed to its top. Skirt the left edge of a grass island to the left edge of an overhang (Golden Dreams joins here). Break the overhang on the left side on knobs, then go straight up to Viewpoint Ledge. 130' FA May 23, 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Seamly Route 5.8 R 110' Start: At a pair of faint seams (one of which becomes a shallow crack above), 8' right of Viewpoint Crack and 5' left of Blue Streaks. P1 5.8 R: Follow the seams up the steep wall past the brush island to where it becomes a crack. Continue up the crack through a small overhang in low-angled rock. 110' FA Aug 20, 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Blue Streaks 5.8 R 125' Start: 5' right of Viewpoint Crack and 7' left of Puzzle, below two blue–black water streaks under a flap. P1 5.8 R: Initially tricky (and unprotected) moves lead to better holds, then to an undercling at the flap 18' up. Up over the flap to a narrow ledge, then straight up on a dirty, low-angle slab. 125' FA Jul 7, 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Puzzle 5.4 G 120' [Mentioned on page 480] The first route on the cliff and, with some cleaning, would be a worthwhile route. Start: Near the right edge of the cliff (15' right of Blue Streaks) below the right of two parallel, left-slanting seams. The right seam reaches the ground and the left seam begins about 7' up. P1 5.4 G: Climb the right seam until one can step left to use both seams. Go up to the right end of a small ledge and (V1) continue up and left in the crack. 120' V1 5.4 X: Step right at the ledge and climb straight up the unprotected slab. FA Jun 1992: Jay Harrison (solo) Pain and Pleasure 5.7 G 130' Start: At a left-facing flake that starts as an overhang and leads to a chimney, between Folly-Stricken and Chicken Flake. P1 5.7 G: Up the flake into the chimney, which is climbed to its top. Finish on easy tock to belay at the first trees. 130' FA May 26, 2008: Jay Harrison (roped solo) The Dartmouth Wall extends for quite a distance below the ridgeline, with several distinct sections. These routes are far left of the routes on page 482, and lie on the right edge of a rockslide zone, which is just left of the first tall cliff. Sweeper 5.5 G 90' Start: At the extreme left end of Dartmouth Wall is a slightly overgrown rockslide area. This route is located in the rockslide area at the left edge of a large wall, just left of a sweeping left-facing corner, below the right side of an overhang at head height that leads to a short, low-angle face. P1 5.5 G: Climb through the right side of the overhang onto the face and up to a pair of left-rising cracks that break a low-angle ramp. Up the cracks to their top, then scramble up easier rock to the top. 90' FA May 29, 2008: Jay Harrison (roped solo) Swept Away 5.8 G 90' Start: 20' right of Sweeper just left of a crack that sweeps up along the left side of a left-facing corner. P1 5.8 G: Make a boulder to gain a crack above blueberry bushes; follow this to its end. Step left around a bulge then up to a ledge. Continue up the crack in the corner to its top. 90' FA May 29, 2008: Jay Harrison (roped solo) Dividing Line 5.9 G 90' Start: 200' right of the rockslide area of Sweeper, at a slab below a bulge 10' up. A striking handcrack cuts through the steep headwall above the bulge. P1 5.9 G: Climb the short slab to a crack leading through a bulge, then up the handcrack in the steep headwall to a large sloping ledge. 50' P2 5.2 G: Scramble up minor 5th class rock to the top. 40' Descent: Rappel, or descent a 5th class gully to (climber's) right. FA Jun 23, 2008: Jamie McNeill, Alysia Catalfamo, Jay Harrison Divide By Zero 5.9+ TR 50' Begin as for Dividing Line. Move up right to gain an offwidth crack. Up the offwidth to the rightmost crack on the headwall above that leads to the sloping ledge of Dividing Line. FA Jun 23, 2008: Jay Harrison, Jamie McNeill Gunga Din Chin 5.10c G 90' [Between routes #20 and #21, page 482] Start: 40' right of Brighter Visions below an overhanging arête with a V-notch 12' up. P1 5.10c G: Climb the arête through the V-notch (5.8) and up using any of several cracks to a stance below the "chin." Up the buttress and out right onto the "chin" (crux), then up cracks and fins to the top. 110' FA (upper section) Jul 2008: Jamie McNeill, Jay Harrison FA (complete) Aug 21, 2008: Jay Harrison (roped solo)
Rock of Ages was previously a TR. It was soloed by Jay Harrison and is now a lead route. FA May 20, 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Little Buttress 5.8 G 20' Hardly worth mentioning, except that it's fun. Start: 100 yards west of the summit below a steep prow. Scramble down to the ledge below the prow and wrestle conifers to its base. P1 5.8 G: Up the prow using several of enticing crack lines. 20' FA Aug 14, 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Gnarly 5.4 PG 60' Start: 30' west of the summit on a ledge below a low-angle face with several open books. P1 5.4 PG: Climb the open books, leftward at first, then back right to the top. FA 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Pain and Pleasure 5.8 G 100' [Between routes #27 and #28, page 483] Start: 5' right of the deep chimney of Folly-Stricken at a huge flake forming an overhang at head height. P1 5.9 G: Climb the flake up and around the overhang and into a squeeze chimney. Up the chimney as it narrows to offwidth to gain a series of ledges. Belay at the second major ledge. 60' P1 4th class: Scramble right and up a gully, then through a thicket of tight trees to gain the summit trail. 30' FA May 26, 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Sweeping up to Glory 5.8 G 45' Start: 8' right of the summit ladder, just right of the outside corner. P1 5.8 G: Stem up a short corner onto the face above. Up the left side of the face to an overhang, then move left around the corner, up a crack, then back right above the overhang to the prow, which is followed to the top. 45' V1 5.7 G: Up the crack using the alcove just right of the ladder. FA Jul 12, 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Stone Cross 5.8 PG 30' [Between routes #29 and #30, page 484] Start: In the gully between the two buttresses, below a short corner and below the right end of a long horizontal crack. This is 15' right of Rock of Ages. P1 5.8 PG: Gain the horizontal crack, then traverse left until under a short small left-facing corner (8' right of the arête). Gain the corner and climb to a ledge, then follow a crack up and left to the top of the buttress. 30' FA Aug 14, 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Five Small Stones 5.5 PG 60' [Left of route #31, page 484] Start: On a small prow sandwiched between Left Buttress and Right Buttress (but closer to the Cornerstone prow), just up from Toiling Men. P1 5.5 PG: Step onto the buttress, then go up and left on a slab to reach the arête. Up the arete using holds on both sides. Finish by scrambling up to the top of the gully, then doing a boulder move up a slanting crack. 60' FA May 20, 2008: Jay Harrison (solo)
V2 Stoned in a Crowded Corner 5.10a TR FA Jul 2008: Jamie McNeill, Jay Harrison The Measles Wall is mentioned on page 476 and shown on the map page 481. The Over the Measles Wall is a 40'-tall cliff situated above the left end of the main wall. The cliff sports many pockets and low-angle face climbing. On the negative side, despite repeated cleaning, the cliff is dirty and stays wet well into the spring. The Flu 5.5 PG 30' Start: At a shallow trough crossed by two horizontal cracks at the left end of the cliff. P1 5.5 PG: Up the trough past two horizontal cracks, then up the low-angle slab to the top. 30' FA Oct 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Trickagnosis 5.7 PG 40' Start: Same as The Flu. P1 5.7 PG: Up the trough to the first horizontal crack. Traverse right 15', then up a vertical crack to the top. 40' FA Oct 2008: Jay Harrison (solo) Mixamotosis 5.9 X 55' Although originally soloed with a wire brush in one hand, a toprope is recommended. Start: On the left edge of a clean, water-streaked slab, which is just right of the overhanging bottom of the cliff. P1 5.9 X: Make a boulder move off the ground, then friction up to a discontinuous left-rising horizontal crack. Follow the crack leftwards to a blunt arête which is climbed to the top. 55' FA Oct 2008: Jay Harrison (toprope solo) Resistant Strain 5.11a TR 55' Follows the corner that forms the right end of the cliff. FA 10/08: Jay Harrison (toprope solo) Jungle Rot 5.10c TR 30' The Over the Measles Wall is separated into two blocks by a steep gully. This route is on right-hand block. Begin below the corner that forms the left side of the block, and climb the arête to the top. FA Oct 27, 2008: Jamie McNeill, Jay Harrison The Measles Wall is mentioned on page 476 and shown on the map page 481, although no routes were included in the guidebook. On the left side of the wall is short low-angle overgrown slab that slopes downward to the lowest point on the wall where there's a spring-fed pool, a marker for finding the routes. Hypoxia 5.5 R 30' Currently mossy. Start: Begin at a small prow on the right edge of the pool. P1 5.5 R: Up the face right of the arêtes to an overlap. Move up and left over the overlap, then up to a ledge. 30' FA 2005: Jay Harrison (solo) Run for Rabies 5.6 R 35' Start: 10' right of Hypoxia, just left of a mossy corner. P1 5.6 R: Up the face just left of the moss to an overlap. Step left around the overlap and climb the face to the top. 35' FA 2005: Jay Harrison (solo) Scared for Life 5.8 X 45' Start: At the face just left of the major left-facing corner with a crack. P1 5.8 X: Up the face to the top of the gully. Join Cracklosis to the top. 45' FA 2005: Jay Harrison (solo) Cracklosis 5.5 G 55' Start: 20' right of the pool at a left-facing corner with a wide crack. P1 5.5 G: Up the corner to its top, then up a crack–seam to a ledge. FA 2005: Jay Harrison (solo) Hamburger Face 5.10b TR 30' Begin 8' right of Cracklosis on the right side of a tree growing up against the cliff. Climb the cleaned face passing a small ledge. FA 2005: Jason Brechko, Simon Cording Measly Little Corner 5.3 G 30' Start: Just right of Hamburger Face below a right-facing corner with a wide crack. P1 5.3 G: Up the corner and crack to a ledge, then up a slab to the top. 30' FA 2005: Jay Harrison (solo) I Am Lesion 5.10a G 35' Start: 12' uphill and right of Measly Little Corner and 20' uphill from the corner. P1 5.10a G: Work up the face past three bolts to a fixed anchor. 35' FA May 11, 2009: Jay Harrison, Todd Paris H1N1 5.8+ G 30' Start: The right-most clean rock on the right side of the face, uphill and right of I Am Lesion, below a bolt 10' up. P1 5.8+ G: Wander up the face past 3 bolts to a fixed anchor. 30' Descent: Rappel, or climb the 10'-tall slab above the fixed anchor and walk off right. Gear: Draws. FA Nov 18, 2009: Todd Paris, Jay Harrison The Upper Measles Wall is a shaded, short crag, the highest of the "measles" collection, and located above and east (to the right of) Measles Wall by 100 yards. The path to Black Arches Wall goes directly under Measles Wall, then under Upper Measles Wall before ascending to the height of land. El Muerte Rojo 5.6 G 50' Start: Near the center of the cliff directly below a 20'-long crack that begins 12' up, and just right of a small clump of beech trees growing beside the cliff. P1 5.6 G: Climb to the crack, then up this to a sloping ledge. (V1) Step right and climb the left-facing corner of Full Moon Fever to the top. 50' V1 5.8 PG: Go straight up from below the left end of a low overhang 6' left of Full Moon Fever's exit. FA Nov 13, 2009: Jay Harrison, Jonathan Losier Full Moon Fever 5.7 G 50' Start: Near the center of the cliff, 12' right of a crack that almost reaches the ground (the start of El Muerte Rojo), 8' left of a 20'-long crack that almost reaches the ground (the route El Muerte Rojo), and directly below a short crack 30' up. P1 5.7 G: Climb up a pockmarked face passing fixed protection to the short crack, which is climbed to a ledge. Continue up a short face using a crack in a right-leaning, left-facing corner. 50' FA Nov 8, 2009: Jay Harrison, Robin Harrison Carpenter & Das 5.7+ G 180' [Left of route #34, page 485] Named in gratitude for Harrison's physical therapist and surgeon. Start: Located at the Isobuttress, the first promontory reached when approaching the Black Arches Wall. The Isobuttress' southern terminus is an often wet, steep 35'-tall wall. Just past this to the north, a wet, mossy, broken slab with a trickle of water is next; after this a slab leading to a steep face, with several discontinuous cracks. Begin on the right side of this slab, at a 3'-diameter rock lying against the slab, below a ledge 7' up. P1 5.7+ G: Climb to the ledge, then go left and up sloping shelves to gain the first crack. Follow the crack up and right until a tricky move gains the right-slanting crack to the left. Up the crack to a horizontal, step right and up, then left onto a large, sloping belay ledge beneath an overhanging flake. 50' P2 5.7+ G: Step left and ascend using a crack on the left (V1) and the left edge of a flake. Continue to the top of the crack and step left at its end onto a ledge. Climb the left side of a blunt arête and step left to the crack leading up to a large, triangular overhang. Climb straight through the right side of the overhang (V2), move left onto the arête and up to a large ledge with pine trees. 120' P3 5.6 G: Up a short wall on its right side 10' V1 5.8 G: Climb directly up the crack. V2 5.5 G: Avoid the overhang by traversing around it to the right. FA Jul 15, 2009: Jay Harrison, Todd Paris Recuperation Boulevard 5.7 G/R 120' Start: Also located on the Isobuttress, 15' right of Carpenter & Das, P1 5.7 G/R: Climb the slab to a point below the casket-sized alcove. Work through an overhang to the alcove, then follow a crack leading up left a spruce tree rap anchor. 45' P2 5.5 PG: Traverse left to an easy step-up to a blueberry-covered ledge right of a large, rectangular block. Stem up a small crack and brushy line of blocks to the crack's end, then step right into the brushy blocks. At the top of this move 6' right to a vertical crack, move up and back left along a horizontal, then up the short, low-angle face to the anchors. 75' FA Sep 2, 2009: Jay Harrison, Todd Paris Adirondack Rehab 5.10a G (5.7 R) 130' Start: 20' left of the right end of the Isobuttress, just right of the start of Recuperation Boulevard. P1 5.10a g (5.7 R): Climb past a bolt in a circular pockmark, step left to another bolt, then up the overhang passing a third bolt and up a crack to a ledge. Step up and left and climb a steep face just left of the outside corner, up a seam that gradually becomes a thin crack. Lower-angle climbing leads to an open book; go up above this, step left and up a short face to the cozy ledge and rappel anchors. 130' Descent: Two rappels: 90' rappel to trees, then another rappel 45' to the ground. FA Sep 19, 2009: Jamie McNeill, Jay Harrison E-Stim 5.6 G 135' Start: At a handcrack that becomes an offwidth 20' up, 10' left of the right end of the Isobuttress and 25' right of Recuperation Boulevard. P1 5.6 G: Climb the crack through the steep wall to easier-angled rock. Step up and left to a nice handcrack and follow it to a large spruce (fixed anchor). 50' P2 5.5 G: Climb up left along a crack–ramp to a right-facing corner. Up this corner for 8' to the second notch breaking left around the corner. Take this and move up and left to join Recuperation Boulevard shortly before reaching the summit anchors. 85' Gear: A #4 and #5 Camalot useful for P1. FA Sep 10, 2009: Todd Paris, Jay Harrison Here I Go Again 5.6 PG 70' Start: 50' right of E-Stim at a broken left-facing corner, 40' right of the Isobuttress' right-facing corner and 5' left of a 2'-wide chimney. P1 5.6 PG: Climb the corner to its end, step left and continue up the outside corner a ledge on top of a 6'-diameter rock pedestal, separated from the main cliff by a wide crack. Continue up the face across the crack to a sloping, brushy ledge. 70' Descent: Rappel off questionable trees or scramble upslope to reach a diagonal ramp. FA Nov 8, 2009: Jay Harrison (roped solo) Amnesia Chasm 5.8 G 75' According to the first ascent party, it was "named because it's forgettable, once the scars heal." The chimney section is quality, though. Start: 55' right of E-Stim and 5' right of Here I Go Again at a 2'-wide, 40'-tall chimney. P1 5.8 G: Up the chimney and over a capstone boulder to reach a large, dirty ledge. Climb the outside corner on the right side of the notch that is the chimney's continuation to a spruce tree at the left end of another ledge. 75' Descent: Walk (climber's) left and then up to reach the Diagonal Ramp, or rappel (no anchors). Gear: Cams to 4", stoppers. FA Nov 17, 2009: Jay Harrison, Todd Paris Black Arch Arête 5.10b PG 120' [Right of route #35, page 485] Reportedly a high-quality route, one of the best at Crane Mountain. Start: 40' right of Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It, near right outer side of the large promontory dividing the Black Arches Wall, on top of a ledge at a shallow cave below an attractive, 60'-high dihedral with a hand/fist crack. P1 5.10b PG: Up the alcove to gain the dihedral. Up the dihedral for 50', step right onto arête, then up past two bolts to a small overhang. Over the overhang (crux) then up a steep slab and over another overhang to a large sloping ledge. 120' Descent: Scramble up (3rd class) over several dirty rock ledges into the woods. Walk (climber's) left for 300' to a ramp, and descend this to the base of the cliff. FA Oct 15, 2008: Jay Harrison, Jamie McNeill Parallel Passage 5.9 G 135' Start: Same as Plumb Line, under the dual-cracks running up the face 7' left of the Plumb Line crack. P1 5.9 G: Climb up to a "tooth" flake just left of the dual cracks, then up the dual cracks until the angle eases. Continue up to a pointed overhang, then follow a black ramp rising left for 20' to a set of cracks and holds breaking the steep face above, then straight up to anchors. 135' Gear: Lots of cams. Descent: A 60m rope just reaches the base. FA Sep 10, 2009: Jay Harrison, Todd Paris Plumb Line 5.11a G 100' Start: 50' right of Black Arch Arête's alcove–chimney, along the same ledge system (which is at the top of an overgrown, 30'-high slab), 12' from the left end of the ledge and 6' left of a seam that splits the obvious rock pillar. P1 5.11a G: Climb up 12' to a stance on top of a 1'-wide, 2'-tall flake. Traverse right to the crack dividing the rock face, then follow the crack through the overhang and on to the top. 100' Descent: Walk 25' right to an oak tree with a rap sling. A 60-meter rope will just reach the ledge. FA Aug 3, 2009: Jamie McNeill, Alysia Catalfamo, Jay Harrison Critical Crimps 5.10b G 145' Start: At the foot of the cliff 10' right and 30' below Plumb Line. P1 5.10b G: (V1) Climb slab 12' to a short, steep headwall. Up the slab, then up a blunt, low-angle arête (bolts) as it steepens to immaculate face climbing. Work up face to a horizontal below an overhang. Climb through this up right (reachy) to the Attic Belay Ledge. Rappel here from a fixed anchor, or continue through notch in overhang above to top. 145' V1 Jay's Affliction 5.10a TR: Climb crystal dike on the left side of the slab, and climb along left edge of steep wall to rejoin main route at the third bolt. Gear: 10 draws and an assortment of small to medium cams. FA Aug 27, 2009: Jamie McNeill, Jay Harrison Second Job 5.8+ G 145' The crux is near the bottom, but the last moves are also memorable. Start: 30' right of Critical Crimps at a small left-leaning ramp that leads to a crack system. P1 5.8+ G: Ascend ramp to base of crack system and follow first crack up past the Attic Belay Ledge (optional belay, fixed anchor) through an awkward overhang to the top. 145' FA Aug 27, 2009: Jamie McNeill, Jay Harrison, Todd Paris Crossway 5.6 G 145' Currently very dirty. Exciting traverse on P2. Start: 10' right of Unnamed2 and 50' right of the lowest point of the cliff, at a right-facing corner. P1 5.6 G: Up the corner as it steps up and left, then join the crack of Critical Crimps briefly. At the Attic Belay Ledge, move left and belay. 110' P2 5.6 G: Hand-traverse left along crack to chimney and (V1) up to the top. 35' V1 5.6 G: Continue left, passing under spooky, hollow overhang. FA Aug 27, 2009: Jamie McNeill, Jay Harrison Don't Kill The Client 5.7 G 150' [Right of route #2, page 289] The first ascent attempted the right-leaning roof crack, but, due to a dangerous block above the belay, opted for the easier exit. Named for the #1 rule in guiding. Start: The top of the cliff on its right side is dominated by large roofs broken by a lone right-leaning crack. Begin at a slab with a lone birch 20' up, and just right of a right-leaning, tree-filled gully that leads the right-leaning roof crack. This is 200' uphill and right of N.O.C. Route. P1 5.6 PG: Climb the slab past the birch tree, staying right of the tree-filled depression, to a ledge below the large roofs. 90' P2 5.7 G: Traverse 25' right to the right end of the ledge and climb a crack in a left-facing corner to a ledge with a tree. Step right and scramble to the trees. 60' FA 1988: R.L. Stolz, Jeffrey Ruiz Shiling Was Willing 5.7 PG (5.4 R) 390' [Between routes #27 and 28, page 193] Start: Same as Silent Spring. P1 5.5 G: Same as Silent Spring: Climb the flakes and cracks on the arête past the right end of the wave like bulges. After the second bulge, angle right on a low-angle slab to the top. Belay from trees below a crack in a left-facing corner in the slab above. 50' P2 5.4 PG: Follow the corner of Beam Me Up to it's top then trend right to a belay at the left end of a cedar island. (This is the left end of the same cedar island in which Squirrelless Journey begins.) 120' P3 5.6 PG: Make a right-rising traverse on good face holds (5.4 R) to a left-facing left-leaning corner. Move up through lichens and follow the left-facing corner and flakes to a belay at a cedar. 140' P4 5.7 PG: Climb straight up on good rock for about 20', then up a broken crack (#2 Friend) to a small ledge. Move right and up on more loose rock to belay at cedars above (same topout as for Squirrelless Journey). 80' FA Aug 6, 2008: R.L. Stolz, David Shiling The Fly Brook Valley is a large hidden valley north of NY 9N and west of Lake George, in the same neighborhood as Tongue Mountain and Barton High Cliff. The cliffs are just beginning to be explored with only a few rock routes and some ice routes; the vast amount of rock remains mostly unexplored and undeveloped. There are several cliffs along the northwest flanks of Catamount Mountain—Catamount Main Face 18T 615244 4837544, The Grotto 18T 615176 4838516, and Catamount North 18T 615940 4838960. Other cliffs include Fly Brook Crag 18T 615152 4839244, Middle Mountain West Face 18T 615952 4839656, and Wardsboro Cliff 18T 614588 4839988. The rock quality varies from bullet-hard to fractured and loose. The area is heavily used by hunters during all hunting seasons. Despite this, the valley has a wilderness feel: the approach is long; there are thick fields of stinging nettles that guard the approach to Catamount Mountain and along the base of North Wardsboro Cliff; Coyotes have been heard while climbing, and, while no snakes have been reported, there are known rattlesnake dens within a few miles of the cliffs. History: Jason Brechko was first to explore these cliffs for climbing, which he discovered by studying topographical maps. He first visited Catamount Mountain, then later Wardsboro Cliff which he saw from across the valley. Directions: From Northway (I-87) Exit 24, drive 5.0 miles east on the Bolton Landing–Riverbank Road to its end, where it makes a T with NY 9N. Turn left onto NY 9N and drive north 6.0 miles to Padanarum Road (0.0 miles). Turn left onto Padanarum Road, then right at 1.8 miles onto Wardsboro Road / Fly Brook Road. Park at a turnout on the right at 3.4 miles, just before the Wardsboro Cemetery and across from a red cabin 18T 613100 4837732. Location: Between Brant Lake and Lake George, accessed from Northway Exit 24 and NY 9N Aspect: Southeast Height: 120' Quality: Approach: 45 min Summary: Wilderness cliff with several crack routes and good potential for more Description: Wardsboro Cliff has seen the most attention in the Fly Brook Valley. The southeast-facing cliff is divided into two sections, the South Crag and the North Crag, separated by a broad, steep gully. A good landmark for orientation is the Kenneth Palmer Lookout, identified by a memorial plaque bearing this name mounted on the side of a rock at the lookout, located at right end of South Crag, and on top of the route Padanarum Crack. From this lookout you can see across the valley to Middle Mountain, Fly Brook Crag, and the various cliffs on Catamount Mountain. Descent: Scramble down the broad gully that separates the North and South Crags (just north of Palmer Lookout), or rappel with two ropes from large pine trees near the lookout. Directions: From the Fly Brook Valley parking, hike north along the road. At 0.6 mile there is a green house on the left and the road becomes a 4WD track. At 1.3 miles there is a hunting cabin on the right; 90 yards beyond is a cairn and yellow blazes on trees marking a state land boundary. Continue on the track another 100 yards past the state boundary, then turn right on a bearing of 100°, following the contour of the terrain. Cross a drainage area and continue contouring to the cliff, the South Crag, which will be on your left 18T 614588 4839988. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the cliff once you leave the 4WD track. At the right end of South Crag is the steep gully used for descent and to reach Palmer Lookout. To reach the North Crag, make your way to the flat ground below the talus of the South Crag, then walk north until you can see the cliff on the left. The left end of the North Crag is identified by a large buttress with a huge roof 20' up, the location of Bowling for Simon. Padanarum Crack 5.9+ G 120' Start: Walk right along the base of South Crag to a narrow ramp that drops you at the right end of the cliff near the base of this route. Begin at a steep 20'-tall dirty wall. P1 5.9+ G: Up 10' to a small ramp. Work right on the ramp, then back left to ledges. Up the ledges, then step right to a protruding block. Face climb past two bolts (crux) to a right-facing corner. Climb a crack in the corner for 40' to where it forks (V1), then follow the wide left fork to a juggy, Gunks-like finish. 120' V1 5.10 A0: Follow the direct fingercrack to the top. FA Sep 2007: Jason Brechko, Simon Cording FA (V1) Sep 2008: Jay Harrison, Jason Brechko Bowling for Simon 5.7 PG 50' Moderate climbing on loose rock. Start: Near the left end of North Crag is a large buttress with a roof 20' up. Begin at a left-facing corner on the left side of the roof, behind a detached block. P1 5.7 PG: Up the inside corner, then up the blocky face on the right to a large tree on a forested ledge. 50' FA Sep 2008: Jay Harrison P8tience 5.8 G (5.2 R) 90' Unique iron-rich rock with solution pockets. Start: Near the center of North Crag is a large orange overhanging section of rock. At the right end of the overhanging section are two 80° faces. Begin on the left of the two faces below a large figure-8 worn into the rock by natural weathering 25' up. P1 5.8 G (5.2 R): Up the easy and fun face with the figure-8 to an overhang. Climb straight through the roof via a crack on the right edge of a large block, up 15' to a ledge, then head left over loose but easy terrain to a fixed anchor on an oak tree. 90' FA Jul 10, 2007: Jason Brechko, Jay Harrison Walking Fern Face 5.8 G 50' Good face climbing with several variations. Keep an eye out for the small fern with arrow-shaped leaves at 2/3 height (a walking fern), which is beautiful and rare. Start: Right of P8tience is another 80° face bordered on the right by a corner and roof system that arches over the face. Begin below the center of this face. P1 5.8 G: Up the face using interesting solution pockets to an overhang, over this, then up the face to a fixed anchor. 50' FA Jun 2008: Jay Harrison, Jason Brechko A long approach including a sea of stinging nettles brings one to Catamount Main Face. From the parking, head east into the Fly Brook Valley, then northeast staying on the high ground above the brook. Eventually you cross the brook 18T 614344 4838204, then head southeast and uphill to the cliff 18T 615244 4837544 reached at 1 hr 15 min. The only reported rock route is Nettle Crack, but there's a lot of potential here. Watch for poison ivy. Nettle Crack 5.8 A0 G 70' An incomplete route with no second pitch. Start: At a right-facing corner 50 yards up and left of the cliff's main left-facing corner and roof system. P1 5.8 A0 G: Up the right-facing corner to a beautiful right-arching fingercrack hidden from below. 70' FA 2007: Jason Brechko, Ryan Aleva Made In The Shade 5.7 G 60' A pleasant route; on a hot day, you'll be made in the shade. Start: In the descent gully between the Spider's Web and Stone Face Rib, 150' up from the bottom of the Stone Face Rib on the west-facing wall. P1 5.7 G: Climb left-trending handcrack to thin crack, then over a bulge to a tree covered ledge. 60' FA Apr 25, 2009: Michael Gray, Aaron Donnelly Nothing We Bailed 5.8 TR 50' This climbs the obvious fistcrack 20' right of Made In The Shade. FA (TR) Apr 25, 2009: Michael Gray, Aaron Donnelly No Regrets Coyote 5.8- G (5.4 R) 115' Named for a Joni Mitchell song, and the fact that the first ascent party found the remains of a Coyote near the base of the route. Start: Walk past the boulder close to the cliff [the boulder described in the "Directions" to the Nestle Wall on page 156] and around the toe of the cliff towards the wet face (with the winter route Sheik of the Burning Sands) and look for a leaning boulder split vertically down the middle by a crack. Begin below this crack on top of a small slanting boulder below a ledge 6' up. P1 5.8- G (5.4 R): (V1) Gain the mossy ledges below the crack. Up the crack (tight hands and fists) to the top of the leaning boulder. (V2) Stem up a large, offwidth, left-facing corner with good faceholds on the left wall (5.4 R, 4" cam helpful) to a large belay ledge. (Or scramble up 20' to a scenic belay with views of the King Wall.) 115' V1 5.7 G: Begin 5' left of the normal start at a dirty left-facing corner with two trees growing down low. Up the corner to gain the splitter crack of the normal route. V2 5.4 G: Better protected than the original finish. Traverse up and right to a fingercrack, then follow this using plentiful holds on the face to the right. Belay at a large birch on top of the face. Descent: Rappel from a pine tree on the ledge with a single 60' rope. FA May 8, 2009: Sam Hoar, Jon Campbell FA (V1) Jul 17, 2009: Duncan Lennon, Sam Hoar FA (V2) Jul 17, 2009: Sam Hoar, Duncan Lennon Location: South of Piseco Lake, accessed from NY 10 Aspect: West Height: 80' Quality: **** Description: Tucked in the forest above Chub Lake near the summit of Chub Lake Mountain is yet another gem. This 300'-wide wall stands between 40' and 80', is tilted at a comfortable 80º, and is laced with cracks. The rock is especially coarse and textured with excellent friction properties; hence, there is a good mixture of face climbs and crack routes, many of which are equipped with lower-off anchors. The base of the cliff rises gently uphill to the left and is pleasant, open and airy. The cliff is located across the road from Good Luck and has easy access—the straight line distance from the road is less than 2000'. With the short approach, the cliff is sure to be popular. To reach the top, walk around the left end of the cliff. Many of the routes are unnamed and are thus given temporary names. The cliff was developed in a style similar to Shanty Cliff, meaning a mix of trad and fixed gear (no sport routes here, though), well-cleaned routes, and good access for groups. Be aware that the first bolts are high and have been designed to be clipped with a stick. History: Lost T cliff was discovered by Gary Thomann (the "T" for Thomann) in July 2008 in a manner not reflecting well on his woodsman skills, so nothing more will be said about that. Routes were added that summer by Thomann and several others (aka the "Lost T Team"). This group prepared and led each route, and breaking from tradition, prefers to credit first ascents to the entire team. Approach: 20 minutes, easy Directions: Park as for Lost Hunter's Cliff 18T 538082 4789285 [page 556] and follow the path to Chub Lake 18T 538184 4789652. About 100' before you get to Chub Lake, turn right and follow a path (pink flagging) on the right that curves around the lake to the north and begins to climb. 100' after crossing a small brook, the path splits (going straight leads to Lost Hunter's Cliff, red flagging); turn right steeply uphill and follow a path (more pink flagging) through open forest to the crest of a ridge. The Annex sits below the trail here. From here the trail levels and wanders another few minutes to the cliff 18T 538748 4789866. Keegans 5.8 5.8+ G 40' Not a misprint, the name is Keegans 5.8 and it happens to be rated 5.8. Start: At the left and uphill end of the wall, 20' right of a full-height chimney (the bottom half of which is stuffed with a fin of rock protruding 1' from the cliff) and 10' left of a large pine tree growing on top of a sunken boulder. P1 5.8+ G: Up the face (3 bolts) to a good horizontal crack, then up more face to a pine tree. 40' FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team Expiration 66 5.9+ G 40' Trickier than it looks as good stances are scarce. A few small cams are helpful. Start: 15' right of Keegans 5.8 and 5' right of a large pine tree growing on top of a sunken boulder, below a seam and crack that runs the full height of the cliff. P1 5.9+ G: A small cam protects the moves to the first bolt. Up the seam (bolt) past a hand slot. Continue up the seam (bolt) and crack to the top. 40' FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team CB Love Grannys 5.12a PG 45' Not much to stand on; an exercise in smearing on a steep face. Requires small gear. Start: 15' right of Expiration 66 and 12' left of the shallow left-facing left-arching corner that marks the start of Ten B, at a face with a left-slanting seam that begins 8' up. P1 5.12a PG: Up the face on good holds to gain the left-leaning seam. Up the seam (bolt) to its top, then switch left to another left-leaning seam; follow this past a bolt to the top. 45' FA Sep 2008: The Lost T Team Ten B 5.11a G 45' Clean rock with good moves and a short crux. The name does not align with the rating, and, yes, there is a story behind it. Start: 50' downhill and right of a full-height chimney (the bottom half of which is stuffed with a fin of rock protruding 1' from the cliff) at a shallow left-facing left-arching corner. P1 5.11a G: Move up and right on staircase holds to gain the left-facing corner. Up the corner as it arches left into an overlap. Traverse left in a horizontal crack below the overlap to its left end, then up to parallel seams in the face. Up the seams past a horizontal crack (crux), then up the short face to the top. 45' FA Sep 2008: The Lost T Team LT_101 5.9 G 50' An excellent crack climb. Start: 5' downhill and right of the shallow left-facing left-arching corner of Ten B and 45' left of the large left-facing corner of LT_102, below a face with seams and a bolt 12' up. P1 5.9 G: A small nut protects the opening moves to an excellent crack (unnecessary bolt). Up the face with seams to a crack and flared pod, then up more crack past a second bolt to a fixed anchor at the top. 50' FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team LT_102 5.11a PG 55' Start: Centered on the cliff (and just left of the highest section of cliff) is a stepped, 3'-deep, 40'-tall, left-facing corner. Begin 10' left of the corner at a brown mossy face below a bolt. P1 5.11a PG: (V1) Up the face to a horizontal crack (bolt, scary clip), then straight up a thin crack (bolts) to an overhang below a right-facing corner. Step left and go over the overhang, then up and left in a good crack past horizontals to a fixed anchor on the left. 55' V1 5.9 G: Begin 10' right in the left-facing corner. Step left onto the face climb a mossy, shallow, right-facing, left-leaning ramp to gain the thin crack. This reduces the overall grade to 5.10c G. FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team LT_103 5.9 G 80' This is the first of three parallel climbs on the tallest section of the cliff. This crack is a contender for the best 5.9 in the southern section of the park. The crack is fingers and tight hands with many hidden horizontals for rests. Start: At the tallest section of cliff, 30' downhill and right of the stepped left-facing corner that marks the start of LT_102, and 8' right of a 12'-high right-facing corner, below a seam in chocolate-colored rock. P1 5.9 G: Up the seam to a high bolt (or stick clip), then up the beautiful crack to its top. Move left and finish in a short handcrack to a fixed anchor on the right (shared with Parthenope). 80' Gear: To 2", with doubles in the finger size range. FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team Parthenope 5.11d PG 80' Start: 4' right of LT_103, exactly between LT_103 and Five Star Crack, at the left end of a blocky ledge 2' up. P1 5.11d PG: Up the face to the first bolt (5.9, stick clip). Continue up a thin seam in the face (small gear) to a bolt, then up the face (crux) to a good horizontal. A thin crack on the right (very close to Five Star Crack) protects more face climbing to another horizontal, then hard moves past a final horizontal (5.11b) leads to a fixed anchor shared with LT_103. 80' Gear: Small cams, nuts, draws. FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team Five Star Crack 5.8 G 70' Sustained at the grade with good moves and excellent protection. Start: The right-hand crack at the tallest section of cliff, 3' left of a large, broken birch tree 4' up. P1 5.8 G: Go up to a small overlap to gain the left-leaning crack. Up the crack past many horizontals to a fixed anchor. 70' Gear: To 2". FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team Wide Crack 5.7 G 60' An excellent handcrack somewhat marred by a chossy finish. Start: 12' right of Five Star Crack below a chossy overhang 5' up, above which is a crack that runs to the top of the cliff. P1 5.7 G: Layback through the initial overhang to gain the crack which is climbed to the top. 60' FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team The Dike 5.8 PG 55' Start: 15' right of Wide Crack at a dike that begins above an overhang 8' up. P1 5.8 PG: Move 8' left and negotiate the roof to gain the face above. Go up to a horizontal crack, then move right to the dike and follow it to its top. Go past a tree, then up a deep, flared crack to the top. 55' FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team LT_105 5.8 G 45' Start: Near the right end of the wall is a boulder pile above which is a right-facing corner capped by a roof. Begin at a large birch tree at the top of a left-rising ramp below the right-facing corner. P1 5.8 G: Up the wide crack in the right-facing corner past the left edge of the roof to a fixed anchor shared with Flavor of the Day. 45' FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team Flavor of the Day 5.12b G 45' Start: Same start as LT_105. P1 5.12b G: Stick clip the first bolt, move right to a jug below the roof, then go directly over the roof (heel hook or some other innovative technique required) onto the face. Up the face to an overlap, over this, then follow the left side of an arête to a fixed anchor shared with LT_105. FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team LT_107 5.9 G 45' A nice finish crack; better than it looks. Start: On the right side of the boulder pile above which is the ramp that leads to Flavor of the Day, and 40' right of that route, at blocky chaotic terrain with a cleaned strip through moss below a ledge 10' up. P1 5.9 G: Move up to the ledge, then up a crack to another ledge. Move left past a small tree and gain a seam and crack that snakes up a clean face. At the top of the crack, go up to a horizontal crack, then up the short face (crux) to the top. 45' FA Aug 2008: The Lost T Team Location: South of Piseco Lake, accessed from NY 10 Aspect: West Height: 50' Quality: * Description: A smaller version of Lost T Cliff (and probably an extension of that cliff), this 150'-wide wall has several crack and face routes. On the left end of the cliff is a large left-facing corner capped by a roof that marks the start of a couple routes. The center of the cliff has a jagged right-arching flake and has been cleaned and toproped, but no routes yet exist here. Like its parent, Lost T, the routes here are designed to be stick-clipped. Directions: The approach to Lost T Cliff traverses within 20' of the top of another cliff (you can see the opening in the forest on your left when the trail reaches the ridge). Walk [skiers] left along the top of the cliff to a short down scramble to reach the base of the cliff, then turn right and follow a trail to the base of the cliff. History: The Annex was developed by the Lost T Team in the summer of 2009. The first routes were led (by accident) by Leslie Ackerman and Jim Lawyer, thinking they were at Lost T. Annex 1 5.8 G 45' Start: At the far left end of the cliff, 10' uphill and left of the large overhang. P1 5.8 G: Make a long reach to stick-clip the first bolt. Work right across the face to the left-facing corner on the left side of the buttress. Up the corner almost to its top, then slide right around the arête onto the face to a fixed anchor. 45' FA 2009: The Lost T Team Annex 2 5.9 G 40' Start: At a shallow trough directly below the large roof at the left end of the cliff and 6' left of the left-facing corner. P1 5.9 G: Make a boulder move up the trough (crux), then up to the left end of the large roof. Step right around the arête and climb the face and shallow left-facing corner to a fixed anchor shared with Annex 1. 40' FA 2009: The Lost T Team Mr. T 5.10c G 50' Start: 12' right of the large left-facing corner at the left end of the cliff, below flakes with a thin seam just above. A gnarled birch tree provides a seat at the base. P1 5.10c G: Scramble up the flakes, then up a thin seam. Face climb up past several short vertical cracks and excellent horizontals (crux) to a final long reach move to a pocket. Mantel into the moss above. 50' FA Jul 6, 2009: Jim Lawyer, Leslie Ackerman I Pity The Fool 5.7 G 50' Start: 6' right of Mr. T below a crack that runs the full height of the cliff. P1 5.7 G: Up and right on a large blocky flake to gain a crack just left of a shallow left-facing corner. Follow the crack system to the top. 50' FA Jul 6, 2009: Leslie Ackerman, Jim Lawyer Annex 3 5.10c G 45' Start: On the right end of the cliff below a shallow vertical trough with seams, just right of a square box-shaped hole 8' up, and 20' left of a giant oak growing 2' from the cliff face. P1 5.10c G: Up the groove using incut flakes and seams and intermittent cracks to a fixed anchor. 45' FA 2009: The Lost T Team
Unnamed3 5.9 G 60' Start: 30' left of Sitting Duck below a detached block five feet left of a bolt. P1 5.9 G: Up the block to the bolt, then up to an undercling. Move left and up to a hidden hold, then up and left to an awkward stance under an overhang. Burly moves past bolts gain a stance, left to an arête, then back right to a fixed anchor. 60' Gear: Draws plus medium cams. FA Apr 2009: The Lost T Team The sites on Mason Lake should be added to the list of "Where to Stay" [page 476], and are particularly convenient for those climbing at Snowy Mountain. These attractive sites are along Jessup River Road; from Speculator, drive 8.2 miles north (toward Indian Lake) on Route 30 to Jessup River Road. Turn left and drive 0.3 miles south. The lake is on your left. Porter Party 5.8 PG (5.2 X) 365' Start: 75' left of the exposed right-rising ramp covered with prickly raspberry and blueberry bushes that marks the approach to the start of the Goodwin–Eastman Route, at a right-rising vegetated corner, the left edge of a clean steep slab. P1 5.2 X: Up bushes in corner for 30', then step out right on good holds and ledges. Belay on the highest ledge. 75' P2 5.5 PG: Aim for a small, left-rising overlap about 50' up. Up slab past a bolt, then angle left to a second bolt below a small right-facing corner. Gear belay above on a 10"-deep ledge. 125' P3 5.8 PG: Up black fracture to headwall and puzzling overlap (crux, bolt). Aim up and slightly right on a long easy run-out to second headwall; break through overlap with good gear to a tree belay. 165' FA Jul 19, 2009: Don Mellor, Anne Minor Zero Gravity Bella 5.2 G 40' Start: Same as Turd Ferguson Can Suck It. P1 5.2 G: Follow a left-rising ramp system. When the crack disappears, small slopey buckets lead to the top of Conveyor Belt. 40' FA May 2009: Rich Balzano, Caitlin Balzano Turd Ferguson Can Suck It 5.5 G 35' Start: 30' right of Conveyor Belt below an obvious parallel crack system. P1 5.5 G: Work the low-angled dirty cracks to the ledge 20' up. Finish up the final section (crux) to belay at a few trees. 35' FA May 2009: Rich Balzano, Caitlin Balzano
V2 5.9 G: Useful if P1 is wet. Begin 6' left of the normal start and climb the outside face of the tower past a hole, then up a left-leaning crack to the top of the tower. Step down and right to the P1 fixed anchor. FA (V2) Aug 1, 2009: Joe Szot, Don Mellor, Jim Lawyer Location: Wilmington, accessed from the Whiteface Memorial Highway (NY 431) Aspect: South and east Height: 70' to 200' Quality: ** Description: Despite being obvious from the road (and even downtown Wilmington), this cliff appears to have escaped attention. The summit area above the cliff is a popular hiking destination with good views, a forest road approach, and a large stone fireplace (and grill). The approach reaches the cliff at its toe. Right of the toe the cliff faces east, is about 70' tall, and has very featured rock, although no cracks. Left of the toe is the "big wall" section that faces south, rises up to 200', and is capped by a roof. The current routes are located at the left end of the "big wall" section. History: Tom DuBois was hiking nearby, and noticed exposed rock on this hill. He returned a few weeks later to work out the approach, and develop the first couple routes. Approach: 25 min; moderate. Directions: From Wilmington, at the "four corners"—the intersection of NY 86, the Whiteface Memorial Highway (NY 431), and Bonnie View Road—go west on the Whiteface Memorial Highway (NY 431) for 1.7 miles. Park at a pullout on the right (north) side of the road, just past Santa's Workshop (taking care not to block any gravel roads). Alternatively, there is a pullout on the south side of the road 200 yards west of Santa's Workshop. From the pullout, walk a few feet up a gravel "loop" road to a weed-covered forest road that leaves the loop and goes north. At 1 min, bear left at a fork. At 2 min, the road crosses into state land (there is a Forest Preserve sign on a birch). At 5 min, a road branches southwest at a clearing; continue straight north. At 7 min, another road joins from the right. At 10 min, reach a double clearing. From the second part of this double clearing, two faint roads branch left. Take the first one, which goes due west. The road will fade to a lightly traveled intermittent path, with some other faint roads branching from it. Persist in the west direction on the intermittent path, moderately uphill, to reach the toe of the cliff at 25 min 18T 590924 4917424. Note: The first section of the approach is private property. At present, there are no private property signs, and it seems obvious that many people use this road to hike up this hill. If there is a concern about crossing private land, it's easy to bushwhack along the heavily blazed property line from NY 431 for a couple minutes and reach the forest road where it enters state land. Yes, Virginia 5.8 G 80' Good gear, but the oddly-shaped crack makes it difficult to place; not a good lead for beginning 5.8 leaders. Start: Near the left end of the big wall, as the path starts going uphill, a 15'-long tongue of white rock extends from the bottom of the cliff. Left of this, locate an overhanging, flaring, black chimney high on the cliff, with a tan-colored "shark's tooth" boulder jammed in the top of it. 15' feet right of the chimney is a large nose of rock with cracks on either side of it. Begin directly below the nose at an obvious stepped crack, just left of the tongue of white rock. P1 5.8 G: Step up the crack through some easier climbing to a flat platform below a vertical wall. Climb the crack system on the right side of the nose. At the top of the vertical wall, walk up an easy slope to a tree with a fixed anchor. 80' FA Aug 7, 2009: Tom DuBois, Ellen DuBois Rudolph 5.5 G 120' Start: Same as Yes, Virginia. P1 5.5 G: (V1) Go up the crack a few feet, then traverse right 20' to a right-leaning crack. Follow the crack for 90' to an easier brushy finish at a 4" beech tree with a fixed anchor. 120' V1 5.8 R: Begin right of the tongue of white rock, directly below the right-leaning crack. Boulder 10' up to the crack (no gear, bad landing) and join the normal route. Descent: Rappel with a 60m rope. FA Jul 12, 2009: Tom Dubois, Ellen Dubois Location: West of the village of Raquette Lake overlooking Browns Tract Inlet. Aspect: Southeast Height: 100' Description: This long cliff rises above Browns Tract Inlet and is a mix of slabs, roofs, flakes, and cracks. Similar to nearby Bald Mountain, the rock is quite dirty, but a few clean lines have been uncovered. The main face is over 400' wide and 100' tall with good potential for routes to those that persevere. There is good cell reception at the cliff. Camping: There is a beautiful campground run by the DEC—Brown Tract Pond (315.354.4412)—about 3 miles away. Approach: 20 min, easy. Directions: Park at the Raquette Lake Free Library in the village of Raquette Lake 18T 527592 4851240. Walk (or bike) west on Dillon Road, an old railroad bed and a designated biking trail and snowmobile trail, for 0.2 mile to a locked gate. Continue past the gate for 0.6 mile with good views of the cliff. Once past the cliff (and just west of the swampy area in front of the cliff) 18T 526272 4850872, leave the road and head northeast to the talus. Ascend the left side of the talus, working right to reach the cairn (a cheater stack of stones) at the base of Outfoxed 18T 526492 4851172. You can also reach the cliff from the west by following Dillon Road (the old railroad) from a gate 18T 523846 4849812 near Upper Brown Tract Pond. History: There are signs that the cliff has been climbed in the past but the first to report climbing was Neal Knitel, Neal Lamphear, and Joe Pfeiffer in the summer of 2009. Knitel, like Jim Vermeulen and Dick Tucker, is an enthusiastic explorer for climbable rock and saw this cliff while driving on NY 28. Outfoxed 5.8 PG 100' An unprotected crux start. Most of the dirty rock is avoided by staying on the nicely featured outside faces of the flakes. Start: At some stacked blocks 100' left of Devin Monkey below a roof 4' up. 50' right is a large open book capped by a roof. P1 5.8 PG: Boulder up to gain a left-facing flake which is climbed to its top. Move right across a vegetated black streak to another left-facing flake and climb to its top. Move left and step over a black streak to right-facing flake which is followed up and left to a sloping ramp. Head up and right up a small buttress with incut holds to a fixed anchor on a very large pine tree. 100'. Gear: To 3". FA Aug 19, 2009: Neal Knitel, Neal Lamphear Devin Monkey 5.6 PG 90' Enjoyable flake climbing down low with a grungy finish. Start: At the highest point along the base of the cliff, on top of a short slab overlooking the open talus field. P1 5.6 PG: Go up a leaning arête to a tree ledge. Step left onto a block then up a right-sloping ramp to some flakes. Climb the left-facing flakes system to its top at a large ledge. (V1) Walk right 10' and climb a crack in a very dirty slab to the top. 90' V1 5.10 TR: Go straight up to gain a horizontal above the ledge, hand traverse left 10' to holds above a ceiling. Pull through the ceiling, then up a notch to the top. Gear: To 2". FA Aug 19, 2009: Neal Lamphear, Neal Knitel, Joe Pfeiffer
V1 Crack Mechanic Direct 5.11d G: Begin as for Great Chimney and scramble to a ledge on top of a block (the center of this block forms the offwidth of Coffee Achievers). Move up a shallow left-facing corner to its top below an overhang. Over this (bolt) to a sidepull, then up to a good horizontal of the normal route. FA (V1) Sep 10, 2009: Colin Loher Location: East side of the Northway, near North Hudson Aspect: Southwest Height: 200' Description: This large and complex cliff can be easily seen from the old Frontier Town airstrip, and from the north-bound exit ramp of Northway Exit 29. The overall quality of the rock is reminiscent of Hurricane Crag—a bit of loose rock that can be pried off, and a sort of bristly, dry feel. The cliff is 150' wide and about 200' tall, but is broken by a ledge and some 4th class rock at the top. There is potential for eight to ten routes. Walking along the base of the cliff from left to right, after some broken rock, you'll reach a large 8'-tall boulder sitting a few feet from the cliff marking the left side of the first good climbing wall. This wall is about 60' by 60' with an obvious crack in an open book in the middle. Downhill and right of this is a short black wall that just out; 15' up is an obvious V-notch, and the start of the route Snakeskin. Right of Snakeskin is a large flat ledge below a 50'-tall tower of rock (The Citadel) with several promising cracks. Most of the climbing potential is around the area of Snakeskin and The Citadel. Approach: 40 min, moderate. Directions: From Northway Exit 29 (North Hudson), follow US 9 north for 8.5 miles to Caza Turn Road on the right. Turn right and drive approximately 100 yards past the first house and locate an old blacktop road on the right that heads east, the little known (and unsigned) Caza Trailhead. Park along Caza Turn Road 18T 602976 4871116. Walk the blacktop road east a couple hundred feet until it enters the woods and becomes a trail (there are “Forest Preserve” signs and “No live bait in Bass Lake” signs). Even though there is no roadside sign or trail register, this is a wonderfully maintained DEC trail that leads to Bass Lake and beyond to Berrymill Flow. Follow the trail along Black Brook, and then uphill. You will cross a small brook at about 5 min. At 15 min there is a cairn on the right side of the trail (you've gone too far if you reach three tiny brooks that cross the trail in rock lined channels). From the cairn, leave the trail and bushwhack 225º for 25 min to the top of the hill. Continue over the top of the hill and down the southwest side for a couple hundred feet to the top of the cliff 18T 603774 4870304. Reach the bottom of the cliff by hiking around the west (skier's right) end. The slabs on top are very exposed. Snakeskin 5.7 R 95' Start: Below a V-notch 15' up in a black wall that juts out. There is also a cairn here. P1 5.7 R: Work straight up to the notch (no gear, 5.7 R). Through the V-notch, then up easier rock to a cleaned, slightly left-leaning corner. At the top of the corner, step right of the arête and climb an attractive face for a few feet to an easy finish. Fixed anchor on the tree at the top. 95' FA Aug 30, 2009: Tom Dubois, Ellen Dubois Location: Soda Range, accessed from Hurricane Road outside of Keene Aspect: Southwest Height: 70' Description: Located at the high point on the Nun-da-ga-o Ridge, this small cliff has excellent views spanning from the Dix range to Whiteface. The cliff is 500' wide, although the left end is ledgy and broken. The climbing is fairly good with cracks and featured faces on generally high-quality rock. Many of the obvious lines have now been climbed, but there is potential for those willing to climb less well-protected faces. There are no trees near the edge, so gear anchors are generally required. Approach: 50 min; moderate. Descent: Walk right to the trail and follow that to the base of the cliff. Directions: From NY 73 / NY 9N in the center of Keene near the fire barn, drive 2.3 miles up Hurricane Road (CR 13) to a 90º bend to the right and the intersection with O'Toole Lane. Turn left and drive to the end of the road at Crow Clearing and the trailhead for Hurricane, Lost Pond, and Big Crow. Hike the trail toward Big Crow for about two-tenths of a mile (about 10 min), steeply at times, to near the summit of Big Crow. Look for a trail on the right marked for Nun-da-ga-o Ridge. (This ridge is marked "Soda Range" on the USGS maps.) Follow this trail, unmarked but in good shape and easy to follow, for 40 minutes over a series of bumps with beautiful views. Near the high point on the ridge the trail climbs to the base of a 40'-tall cliff that wraps around the summit 18T 601288 4903288. History: The cliff was noticed for climbing in 2009 by Sam Hoar while working for the Adirondack Trail Improvement Society (ATIS). He returned with Duncan Lennon, Annie Boucher, and Robbie Goodwin, and climbed several routes, naming them after Stuarts ice cream flavors. During a later conversation with Jim Goodwin, Robbie's 99-year-old grandfather, Jim recalled that John Case had done some climbing somewhere on Nun-da-ga-o Ridge, perhaps at this cliff. Left End To reach the Left End, bushwhack along the base of the cliff through thick balsam growth, or go back down the trail into the notch and through less thick growth to the base of the cliff (this is the easier approach for reaching Peanut Butter Pandemonium). Peanut Butter Pandemonium 5.7 G 70' Start: 150' yards left of the trail below a winding crack on a right-facing arête. P1 5.7 G: Follow a winding crack to a ledge below a short fingercrack. Pull the crack past a bulge and climb the face directly above it (crux), which can be avoided by moving right into a chimney–flake. 70' FA Jul 18, 2009: Duncan Lennon, Annie Boucher Caramel Chasm 5.7 G 40' Start: At a prominent chimney–crack, 150' left of the trail. P1 5.7 G: Access the hanging chimney via bouldery moves on the right-hand face. At half height, step across to the juggy left-hand edge of the crack and follow this to a loose topout. Gear: 4" cam useful. FA Jul 18, 2009: Duncan Lennon, Annie Boucher Fudge Brownie a la Mode 5.6 G 40' Start: Begin 75' left of the trail at a clean face beneath a small overlap. P1 5.6 G: A tricky start leads up the face to the overlap. Over this, the up past several small wire placements. 40' FA Jul 18, 2009: Duncan Lennon, Annie Boucher Right End This is the section of cliff where the trail reaches the base. Mint Marcy 5.7 G 40' Start: Where the trail reaches the base of the cliff, at a system of small flakes below a ledge 15' up. P1 5.7 G: Climb the flakes to the ledge, then up a thin crack to the top. Scramble up ledges to set up a belay. 40' FA Jul 18, 2009: Sam Hoar, Robbie Goodwin Crumbs Along the Mohawk 5.9+ G 40' Start: At a left-facing corner 10' right of Mint Marcy. P1 5.9+ G: Climb the corner onto a small ledge (small cam essential), then up some insecure tips-locks into a handcrack. Exit onto the summit ledges with a gear belay. FA Jul 18, 2009: Sam Hoar, Robbie Goodwin Samboneparte 5.8 G 40' A superb climb, if only it were longer!. Sports an excellent thin crack and a clean face topout. The route is named similar Tone-Boneparte, done by Robbie's father Tony Goodwin 35 years earlier. Start: 10' right of the Crumbs Along the Mohawk corner, behind some brush at a set of small corners below a thin fingercrack that breaks a small roof. P1 5.8 G: Up the corners past some hollow jugs and through the roof via the fingercrack. Near the top of the crack, step right and continue up the face. Belay on the summit ledges. 40' FA Jul 18, 2009: Sam Hoar, Robbie Goodwin Description: Paul's Ledge is mentioned in the introduction to Gore Mountain [page 506] as having a scenic viewpoint with a couple topropes. Paul's Gondola Ride 5.4 G 45' A beautiful setting with views of Gore Mountain and the mountains to the east. Start: [Map page 507] From Paul's Ledge on the blue blazed Schaeffer Trail, scramble (skier's) left along the cliff edge to a 5'-deep fissure. Scramble down into the fissure, then head (climber's) left along base of the cliff past a vertical toproping wall directly below the lookout. Begin 25' left of a blocky right-facing corner that has a clean overhanging right-facing wall, in front of a large two-trunked birch tree. P1 5.4 G: Make a couple friction moves to a horizontal crack 10' up, then pass a large birch to the right. Continue on a right-rising line towards the blocky corner. Climb over a couple of large blocks and then into the corner for the last moves to the top. 45' FA Sep 5, 2009: Dan Mosny, Kate Mosny Kat Nap 5.9+ PG 280' [Between routes #2 and #3, page 409] Start: At the huge left-facing dihedral that separates the Agartha Wall and Feline Wall. P1 5.9+ PG: Up a left-leaning crack to a small left-facing corner, then up to a grassy ledge at the base of the main corner system. Follow the main corner system to a belay on a good ledge. 230' P2 5.8 G: Continue up the corner system to a spruce ledge at its top. 50' Descent: Rappel the left side of the Feline Wall. FA Sep 19, 2009: Josh Josten, Connor Murphy, Andrea Hoffman |
Unable to locate Analysis Paralysis. The start seems to describe Welcome to the Machine, but the route description doesn't match—i.e., no 5' roof, and no right-facing corners. Need to resolve this.