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SILVER LAKE AND POTTER MOUNTAINS
Copyright © 2010 Adirondack Rock Press, LLC.
Last updated: Sep 5, 2012

The following 145 routes on 15 cliffs have been compiled for the Silver Lake and Potter Mountain area. This area is not in the guidebook. To add routes, email us (Jim or Jeremy) with your route information.

 

Cliff 1: C Chimney Cliff (19 routes, 28 pitches)
Cliff 2: Never Never Land (4 routes, 4 pitches)
Cliff 3: Purple Rain Wall (5 routes, 6 pitches)
Cliff 5: Summit Cliff (21 routes, 27 pitches)
Cliff 6: Center of Progress Cliff (27 routes, 37 pitches)
Cliff 7: Tsunami Slab (4 routes, 3 pitches)
Cliff 8: Midway Cliff (12 routes, 13 pitches)
Cliff 9: Outback Slab (6 routes, 15 pitches)
Cliff 10: Wayback Cliff (2 routes, 6 pitches)
Cliff 11: Potter Mountain Cliff (26 routes, 39 pitches)
Cliff 12: Pandorum
Cliff 13: Hydrogen Wall (2 routes, 2 pitches)
Cliff 14: Mud Pond Cliff (15 routes, 14 pitches)
Cliff 16: The Burrow (1 routes, 2 pitches)
Cliff 17: Silver Lake Mountain Summit Areas (1 routes, 1 pitches)


Location: North of Whiteface and Wilmington, accessed from Silver Lake Road.

Description: Silver Lake Mountain and Potter Mountain are located north of Wilmington and Whiteface Mountain in a parcel of land known as the Black Brook Tract. The property is owned by Lyme Timber (formerly owned by International Paper) and, due to a conservation easement with the state, is open for non-motorized public recreation including hiking, skiing, horseback riding, mountain biking, fishing, trapping, and, of course, climbing. There is currently no camping, but aside from that, all other state land use regulations are in effect.

For years, the area has been referred to by local climbers as "Silver Lake", which is slightly confusing seeing that the actual Silver Lake is nowhere near the climbing. This causes some confusion, as Silver Lake Wilderness is located south of Speculator and Lake Pleasant in the southern Adirondacks.

Aside from the hiking trail to the summit of Silver Lake Mountain, few improvements have been made to the property. There are no parking lots, marked trails, outhouses, or signs. In 2011, several sign-in registers were added, one at the Turnpike Road Trailhead, and the other at the Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead.

There is, however, an extensive network of logging roads, skid paths, and logging headers, remnants of the most recent logging activity. In fact, the area has been extensively logged for many years, and the land has been thoroughly ravaged. In some cases, the logging roads and skid paths provide for excellent and speedy hiking, but more often they are overgrown with chest-high weeds and prickly plants, deeply rutted, steep and washed out, and often muddy. If it's been raining, the lower half of your body will be soaked, and since you can't see your feet, you'll stumble into the mud-filled ruts. There are endless braided skid paths with intersections every 30', so walking in a straight line often means making a confusing series of turns from one path to another. Hence, there are flagging and cairns everywhere as hikers try to make sense of it all. Not to mention the paint on the trees from forestry work. The skid paths are impervious to obstacles and often proceed straight through marshy areas; avoiding such areas places you on yet another skid path. To top it off, the forest, for the most part, is young growth with dense foliage at head height, restricting visibility to just a few body lengths. In short, it's a mess. Bring a compass, GPS, map, and try to keep the cliffs in sight. Durable clothing is essential.

One last comment—the insect populations are abundant here more than anywhere else. A typical summer day involves swarms of deer flies (especially on the logging roads), black flies, mosquitoes, and bees (mostly in the flowering logging headers). For some reason, these cliffs have more ants than elsewhere. A head net, long-sleeved shirt, and DEET are strongly recommended.

Life at Silver Lake isn't all bad. Since 2009, climbing visitation has increased and the approaches are getting consolidated and better defined. Once you're at a cliff, it feels like any other seldom-visited Adirondack cliff. The rock is generally dirty and unspoiled, and the cliff bases are wild with dense foliage. There are cliffs that have many routes, while others have just one. Best of all, you'll likely be all alone.

There are 17 areas described here, most are major cliffs, and a few are up to 500' tall; the overview shows these cliffs. This document describes those cliffs that have recorded routes or those with significant potential.

Aerial overview (564K, last updated: 22 May, 2012)

There is strong cell phone reception at the cliffs (line of site to Whiteface). Coverage at the trailheads is poor.

Camping: Use DEC Taylor Pond Campground (518.647.5250) or Douglas Resort (800.201.8061) on Silver Lake. There is no camping on the Silver Lake properties at this time.

Directions: From Wilmington (0.0) at the "four corners"—the intersection of NY 86, NY 431, and Bonnie View Road—go north on Bonnie View Road (CR 19A) to its end at a T junction with Silver Lake Road (CR 1) at 6.0 miles. Turn left and go west on Silver Lake Road. At 9.8 miles is the entrance to Taylor Pond Campground on the left. At 10.2 miles you reach the triangular intersection with Turnpike Road on the right. The various trailheads are described from this intersection. (There are other access points, but those described here are public and provide easy access to the cliffs. If you choose another access point, be sure that it's not on private property.)

Although it may be possible and tempting to drive on the various logging roads, this is illegal, and doesn't save you much time. Several of the logging roads seem excellent, but quickly deteriorate and would only save 5 or 10 minutes.

On several approaches you will pass near several hunting camps. These camps are set on 1-acre parcels and are private; do not approach these camps. The camp owners have gate keys and permission to drive vehicles on the forest roads to and from their camps. Don't be tempted even if you find an open gate and see other motorized vehicles using the logging roads.

Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead: From the triangular intersection (the intersection of Silver Lake Road and Turnpike Road), drive west on Silver Lake Road for 1.4 miles to the Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead on the right. The parking area is difficult to see from the road, but is marked with a DEC sign on the road 18T 591419 4929265, and is directly across the street from Island Road.

The logging road for Mud Pond Cliff is 0.2 miles before the Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead (and 1.2 miles west of the intersection of Silver Lake Road and Turnpike Road), on the north side of the road next to a sign that reads "Driveways Next 3/4 Mile" 18T 591763 929161. Parking here saves a little walking. Be sure to avoid blocking the logging road and park your vehicle completely off the pavement. There is a sign-in register within 100' of the road.

Turnpike Road Trailhead: From the triangular intersection (the intersection of Silver Lake Road and Turnpike Road), drive east on Turnpike Road for 1.0 mile to a gated logging road on the left 18T 594973 4928499. This is 300' after a yellow schoolhouse-style house on the left, and sharp left turn in the road. 600' beyond the parking area is a bridge where the road crosses Black Brook–Taylor Pond Outlet. There is ample room on the shoulder on either side of the road for many cars. Don't block the gate, and park you vehicle completely off the pavement. There is a sign-in register within 100' of the road.

Goodrich Mills Trailhead: From the triangular intersection (the intersection of Silver Lake Road and Turnpike Road), drive east on Turnpike Road to a hairpin turn in the road. Stay on the paved road, which changes name to Goodrich Mills Road. After the hairpin turn, at 2.8 miles, there is a logging road on the left with an orange gate set back 200'; park on the shoulder on either side of Goodrich Mills Road 18T 596668 4928750. The logging road is directly across the road from a yellow highway sign that shows a 90º turn to the right. Don't block the logging road, and park your vehicle completely off the pavement.

Silver Lake and Potter Mountain Map (216K, last updated: 29 Sep, 2011)


Cliff 1: C Chimney Cliff

C Chimney Cliff Overview (600K, last updated: 15 Mar, 2010)

C Chimney Cliff, Left End (689K, last updated: 05 Sep, 2011)

C Chimney Cliff, Main Face (713K, last updated: 19 Jun, 2012)

Approach: 1 hr 30 min, difficult

Description: The cliff is separated into two parts, divided by a rocky buttress that extends down into the woods. This buttress forms a large right-facing corner on the left end of the Main Face. Scramble up the left side of this buttress to access the right-rising tree gully that splits the cliff—a good descent route from the top of the cliff. On top of this buttress is an excellent open ledge—Lunch Ledge—a great place to escape the canopy of the forest out of the bugs. Left of the buttress is the Left End with a couple good routes.

The top of the cliff is also easily accessed by hiking to the right end of the cliff and ascending a gully that separates the C Chimney Cliff from Never Never Land.

Directions: Situated on the crest of the Silver Lake – Potter Mountain ridgeline, this is one of the more difficult cliffs to reach. The best option is from the valley below. Park at the Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead, or, better yet, on the shoulder of the road 0.2 miles east of the trailhead. Follow the logging road for 15 minutes to a large clearing choked with raspberries and other unpleasantries. This clearing is directly below the Hydrogen Wall. Continue straight across the clearing, heading east, following flooded skid paths through dense brush and prickers (as pleasant as it sounds) to a slight descent into young forest. Continue slightly north of east, avoiding the temptation to head uphill too early—there are slabby cliffs that bar access directly from below. About 20 minutes after leaving the clearing, pick up a seasonal stream that can be followed uphill (north), around the east end of the slabby cliffs, to reach the cliff near its right end 18T 593430 4930394.

The cliff can also be reached by following the Silver Lake Mountain ridgeline. From the top of the Hydrogen Wall, continue east along the ridge through extremely dense spruce and blowdown—pretty rough going. After crossing the old property boundary (which will most likely go unnoticed), head northeast into a notch. From the notch, you can easily regain the ridge that runs along the top of the cliff, or walk right along the cliff base, again rough going 18T 593430 4930394. Don't go this way unless you really like bushwhacking.

Left End

1. Unnamed13   5.7   G   140'

Start: The distinctive feature on the Left End is an 8'-wide chimney that runs the height of the cliff, that begins just left of the right-rising tree-filled ramp that divides the cliff. Begin 20' left of the chimney on top of blocks in a right-facing corner with a ceiling at head height.

P1 5.7 G: Climb over the roof on its left side to a ledge with a pine tree. Continue up the crack in the right-facing corner to the top. 140'

2. The Norton Anthology: Chapter One   5.10b   G   120'   

Start: 20' right of Unnamed13 is a deep, dark, 8'-wide chimney. From the base of the chimney scramble up and right onto a ledge. Begin 10' right of the edge of the chimney at a thin seam below a short fistcrack 9' up. (The start should not be confused with the more prominent hand- and finger-crack in dark rock 10' to the right that begins 20' up, which is the route Cliff Notes.)

P1 5.10b G: Up the thin seam in the face, past the fist slot, then move left across a face to a fragile, shallow, right-facing flake (crux, small gear). Follow a left-facing corner to the top. 120'

3. Cliff Notes   5.10d   PG   60'   

To make the route safe, you have to chimney up between the rock and a tree and place a sling high in the tree; double ropes work best here.

Start: 10' right of The Norton Anthology: Chapter One on a dark face with a seam that widens to fingers 18' up, and widens to hands to 25' up.

P1 5.10d PG: Go up the face and mantel onto a small ledge (crux) 12' up. Place RP in seam, then continue up face to fingercrack, which becomes hands and eventually 4". Finish at a ledge with a fixed anchor. 60'

Main Face

4. Shaggy's Secret Stash   5.10c   PG   135'

Better than it looks, and way better than the start.

Start: 15' left of Mystery Machine at a chimney–gully with a birch 15' up.

P1 5.10c PG: Up the gully until it is possible to escape out right. Climb a ramp to gain a left-facing flake, then go straight up past ledges, aiming for a finger-size crack. Avoid the huge detached blocks on the right. 135'

Gear: Doubles of cams through 2", extra small stuff.

5. The Purist   5.10b   G   105'   

Start: Climb Mystery Machine (5.6) and build belay up and right in the base of the large attached flake.

P1 5.10b G: Traverse left 10' to gain large right-facing corner. Climb a hand-crack through a bulge and continue up crack. Trend right towards small clusters of trees. Anchor on excellent foot-ledge below large, right-facing flake. 65'

P2 5.9+ G: Climb the right-facing flake, heading for a wide crack. Climb this up to a small tree and pull up out of the pool onto the slab. Continue up slab to anchor on tree. 40'

Gear: Doubles of cams to 5".

6. Mystery Machine   5.6   G   45'   

An exploratory climb with several promising possibilities above. Good climbing.

Start: 25' right of the huge right-facing corner formed by the buttress that defines the left end of the Main Face, below a shallow chimney box with parallel cracks.

P1 5.6 G: Up the parallel cracks to slab, then up and right to belay under the roof system. 45'

7. Zoinks!!   5.10d   G   170'   

A classic plumb line with non-stop fun and good movement up an obvious feature. Perhaps sandbagged.

Start: 75' right of Mystery Machine, just left of fallen boulders and a small cave, at the base of a shallow, right-facing corner with a thin crack in it.

P1 5.10c G: Start just left of the cave on good holds. Follow the crack in the right-facing corner straight up to a stance 50' up. Follow the left side of two inside-facing corners until just below roofs. Build an anchor at the base of darker colored cracks in a small left-facing corner. 70'

P2 5.10d G (5.6R): Move up and slightly right, undercling and layback to gain the perfect fingercrack up to roofs. Gulp down some Scooby Snacks and start moving up, taking advantage of the good holds. Do another sick undercling move, pull the last roof and then climb the corner, taking advantage of the crack on the right side of the face as well. Up through some slabby stuff (5.6 R) to the top. 100'

Gear: Singles to 2.5", doubles through finger sized cams.

8. Double Fisting Blueberries   5.9   G   120'

The chimney is reportedly better than it looks.

Start: Climb P1 of Zoinks.

P1 5.9 G: From the belay, move right and up into a chimney and climb this until block by a large moss and tree island. Exit right onto slabs, then follow an incipient crack (crux) to the top. 120'

9. If You Don't Like It, Leave   5.11b   PG   200'   

Start: On top of a finely constructed pedestal below a 3" crack in an imposing, low overhang, downhill and left of Tears of Gaia.

P1 5.11b PG: Crank through an unusual, hard, bouldery start to easier climbing on delicate rock that gives access to a V-slot. Make strenuous moves through V-slot to a roof. Break the roof on the right (place gear before you do so), then make some hard moves right to a fingercrack (crux). Follow the fingercrack to the base of a long, left-facing corner. Go up the corner with a few more spicy, hard moves for another 50' to a small ledge; belay here (2" cam, green Alien, nut), which is left of a gargoyle-like formation on your right. 100'

P2 5.10b PG: Continue up corner to small overhang. Break the overhang on the right and move out to the arête of the corner—super fun and exposed. Follow water-worn fingercracks to a slab finish. 100'

Gear: From RPs up to 2"; doubles up to #0.75. Do not place a cam in the opening 3" crack, as it may break a key hold! If you don't like it...

10. Tears of Gaia   5.10b   G   150'   

This route ascends a convex wall on incut jugs; the steeper the wall, the bigger the jugs. Some of the holds feel fragile, but will improve with traffic; fortunately, the protection is excellent.

Start: The C Chimney (aka Mine Shaft) is recessed in the back of a giant right-facing open book. Begin on the left wall of the open book at the top of the debris cone below the mouth of the chimney.

P1 5.10b G: Scramble easily up to a ledge, then move left and up to a shallow, left facing corner. Trend up and left towards the arête, then up and right to where the wall overhangs. Pumpy climbing on incut jugs leads past the right side of a choss tower (best not to touch this), then up to a stance. Step left to some cracks, then straight up the steep face using horizontal cracks to a long stab for a jug on smile-shaped scoop with a fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.9 G: Go straight up to a good slot (yellow Alien), then move left 10' (crux) using a sidepull to parallel cracks. Follow these through a bulge to a small ledge with a fixed anchor below blueberry slabs. 50'

Gear: Quickdraws for P1, then a minimal rack to 1" for P2.

11. Mine Shaft (aka C Crack, aka Jervis's Joke)   5.4   PG   200'

This spectacular feature unfortunately offers less than spectacular climbing. Much loose rock has been removed with more to come. Currently, there is a very unstable monster block in the topout. Although not recommended as a summer route, this is an excellent winter route. This route, along with Old Route at Hurricane Cliff, are the largest known chimneys in the Adirondack Park. The route was originally climbed in two pitches, but with a 60m rope, only one pitch is required.

Start: Near the center of the cliff at the obvious curving chimney.

P1 5.4 PG: Up the shattered dike deep within the chimney, behind a large chockstone, and up to the sunlight, eventually emerging in a gully that leads to a large pine. 200'

Descent: Walk around either side of the cliff, or rappel with two ropes from the fixed anchor of Haroom Baroom.

12. Haroom Baroom   5.11d   G   180'   

The name is Berber for "cheers". This route has it all: underclings, crimps, slopers, pinches, a tufa, a crystal jug, fingers to fists and overhung rock to a slabby top. Bouldery for the first 80' until the angle kicks back. Then tricky gear up a water grooved crack. Led in two pitches but should be linked.

Start: 50' right of Mine Shaft at an obvious stem box created by two facing corners.

P1 5.11d G: Climb up the stem box, then up through tiered overlaps and roofs. At the third clip step left and make a hard move over the roof (crux), then step back right and continue up to the crack. Gear belay. 80'

P2 5.9 PG: Follow the crack until it fades. After you pull onto the slab (crux), continue up to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws plus doubles through 0.75 Camalot, plus #1 and #2 Camalots.

13. Bearded Munchkin   5.10b   G   75'   

Another beautiful pitch. With work, an excellent second pitch is possible.

Start: 40' right of Haroom Baroom and 30' left of Seeking Enlightenment below a left-slanting dihedral capped by a large roof.

P1 5.10b G: Climb up to a ramp and dihedral. Near its top step right and pull past the roof (wild, crux). Continue up until the dihedral ends and then step right. Continue up a crack to a foot-sized block and a fixed nut belay. 75'

P2 5.10c PG: Continue up into a left-facing corner with some loose blocks. Tread lightly past this and continue up the mostly finger-size crack until it ends. Make a few moves up the slab and then step left and head to the fixed anchor. 110'

Gear: Double rack up to 0.5", extra small stuff helpful.

Descent: Rappel. Gear can be collected by rappelling Haroon Baroom.

14. Seeking Enlightenment   5.11a   G   160'   

The first pitch is used as an approach to several stunning cracks.

Start: 75' right of Haroom Baroom beneath a cow's-mouth roof 40' up.

P1 5.10d G: Move up to the roof. Pull the roof to good cracks just above, then work right up a slab to a fixed anchor. 50'

P2 5.11a G: Go straight up the slab (first crux) to a good horizontal below a thin, overhanging crack. Work up the overhanging crack to surprising holds, then up the thin tips crack to where it pinches off. Continue up to where the crack opens to hands (second crux), and follow this to big jugs. Continue the crack through another bulge, then step right to a fixed anchor. 110'

Gear: For P1, draws plus a #2 C3. For P2, doubles to 2".

Descent: A double-rope rappel returns to the ground.

15. Flying Buddha   5.12b   G   110'   

This beautiful splitter overhangs 10'. It's the obvious overhanging crack to the right of the second pitch of Seeking Enlightenment.

Start: Top of P1 of Seeking Enlightenment.

P1 5.12b G: Head up the slab past the first 2 bolts of Seeking Enlightenment, then move right to the base of a right-facing corner with the crack above. Pull though a small roof and up to a horizontal. Rest, then jam your way from fingers to hands to fists for 15'. Make a big move, followed by several harder ones. Finish up the crack more easily on lower-angled rock. 110'

16. Hippie Sticks and Black Flies   5.11a   G (5.5 R)   280'   

The last pitch is reportedly one of the best at Silver Lake.

Start: 150' right of Mine Shaft in front of a birch tree stump at an obvious, large, left-facing corner capped by a roof 50' up.

P1 5.11a G: Up the initial corner (crux) up to the roof. Traverse left under the roof and continue up flake to a shrubby ledge. Large cams helpful for the anchor (4" to 5"). 60'

P2 5.9 G (5.5 R): Gain the top of the left-facing corner. Climb the railroad track cracks (crux) and head for easier terrain to a slight ledge system. Traverse left 30' (passing the fixed anchor of Jenga) to a comfy belay at the base of a thin crack. 110'

P3 5.10d G : Climb the crack until it fades. Step left to another thin seam and climb this to a right-rising crack–flake. When this ends, go up and left (crux) to a rounded corner. Climb a slab to the top. 110'

Gear: Double rack plus large cams for the P1 anchor.

Descent: Walk right and rappel Jenga.

17. Jenga   5.11b   PG   80'

Insecure jamming and imbalance characterize this pitch.

Start: Climb P1-P2 of Hippie Sticks and Black Flies (5.11a), but stop the P2 traverse at a comfy belay and fixed anchor.

P1 5.11b PG: Move up and slightly left, then back right to a flared crack. Follow the crack until it disappears, then move right and aim for the impressive-looking hand crack in a block. Surmount this, then go up to a fixed anchor. 80'

Descent: Two rappels: the first is 30m and the second is 35m.

18. Velma's Snatch   5.3   X   190'

Climbs the second-most obvious feature on the cliff, the right-leaning ramp on the right side of the main face. Looks much better than it is.

Start: 55' right of Hippie Sticks and Black Flies below a large open book with a dark, dirty, and wet chimney at its center.

P1 5.3 X: Climb the chimney for 40' to a jumble of detached blocks. Over these, then up the surprisingly steep gully filled with pine needles to the top. 190'

Gear: 1 ea #4 Camalot, 0.5 Camalot, slung pine tree.

Descent: Walk left and rappel Jenga.

19. I See You   5.10b   G   230'   

A really fun, long route that needs a little cleaning. The first ascent was climbed as one long pitch with 30' of simul-climbing; could easily be done as two separate pitches. The route ends at a fine perch—one of the nicest craggy summits in the Adirondacks.

Start: At the obvious 90' stem box on the right side of the cliff, approximately 100' right of Black Flies and Hippie Sticks.

P1 5.10b G: Head up the stem box for 90' making interesting moves that corkscrew up this feature. Step left at the top of the stem box and make some harder face moves (crux) to a beautiful crack. Follow the crack that eventually narrows to a incredible left-rising fingercrack which is climbed to the top. 230'


Cliff 2: Never Never Land

Directions: Follow the approach to the C Chimney Cliff, then walk right along the base to its far right end. Continue across a gully to this cliff.

1. Hammerhead   5.10b   G   80'   

Excellent views of Taylor Pond, Silver Lake, C Chimney Cliff, and Center of Progress.

Start: 200' left of Blockus is a grassy, tiered, tree-covered ledge system. Walk to its left end, directly in front (and 70' below) of a splitter handcrack. Scramble up the tiered ledge system (3rd class) to red pine belay below the handcrack; there is a hammerhead-shaped flake formation just to its right.

P1 5.10b G: Go up the crack a few moves than follow large face holds left, then back right to a small overhang where the crack pinches down to a seam. At the overhang, gently use the hammerhead-shaped flake to advance past the seam, then follow the splitter handcrack (somewhat overhanging) to the top. 80'

Descent: A single 60m rappel from tree. Be careful not to get the rope stuck!

2. Always   5.9   G   70'   

Sustained and fun with sequential hand and finger jams peppered with good feet.

Start: Same as Blockus.

P1 5.9 G: Begin as for Blockus: climb a left-rising dirt ramp below the offwidth to a small right-facing flake. Climb past the flake, then go straight up the splitter crack to a fixed anchor (shared with Blockus). 70'

3. Blockus   5.10a   G   70'   

Start: At an offwidth crack formed by the left side of a tractor-trailer-sized, detached block.

P1 5.10a G: Climb a left-rising dirt ramp below the offwidth to a small right-facing flake. Climb past the flake and traverse right into the offwidth. Get sucked in as the crack gradually widens and spits you out on a good ledge. Follow a hand- and fist-crack to it's top, then scramble up 10' to a fixed anchor shared with Always. 70'

Gear: Doubles of 5" and 6" cams recommended.

4. Happy Thoughts and Chalk Dust   5.11a   PG   80'   

Every move gets continually harder until the top, but with good rests. Would get 5 stars if longer.

Start: At a handcrack in a small left-facing corner, underneath the right side of the Blockus formation.

P1 5.11a PG: Up the corner for 10', then move right on small crimps to a fingercrack that lies just left of an arête. Up fingercrack to its end. Plug in gear, then make exciting moves up the arête to an awkward mantel onto a stance. Up increasingly difficult fingercrack just right of the arête, then dive out right to the top of a left-facing corner. Make another hard mantel move to a nice rest, then up the super thin fingercrack in a mini-corner (crux). Break left to a thin slab topout, moving left to the fixed anchor shared with Blockus. 80'


Cliff 3: Purple Rain Wall

Purple Rain Wall (8775K, last updated: 21 May, 2012)

Approach: 1 hr 45 min, difficult

Description: This cliff has good quality rock with potential for moderate routes. The left end is slabby, the middle is steeper, and the right end is broken up. The base is very user-friendly with flat terrain that is not overgrown.

Directions: Walk right from the C Chimney Cliff, past Never Never Land to this cliff.

1. Purple Rain   5.7   G   165'   

Start: Left end of the cliff, in a depression left by a recently uprooted birch tree below a head-high overhang with horizontal cracks just above. When approaching from the C Chimney Cliff, this route is just past the top-to-bottom slabs that dominate the left end of the cliff.

P1 5.7 G: Work up through the overhang, then up 15' of easier terrain. Move up and right to a small overlap with an undercling. Over this, then up left to a handcrack in a slab. Up the handcrack to its end, then up an easier unprotected slab to a small pine. Head left along a low-angle, left-facing corner to a sloped belay ledge below a large cedar. 115'

P2 5.7 G: Climb past the cedar, then fun climbing up a blocky right-facing corner leads to the top. 50'

2. Slabby McCracken   5.9   G   175'   

The initial crack is very good, and P2 is excellent.

Start: 30' right of Purple Rain below a 20'-tall right-leaning crack.

P1 5.8 G: (V1) Up the crack to its end, then wander up and left on lower-angled terrain to the small pine of Purple Rain. At the pine, move up and right out of the left-facing corner to a belay at the base of a right-facing right-leaning corner which deepens higher up. 115'

P2 5.9 G: Up the right-facing corner which becomes harder as the angle diminishes. Continue to the top. 60'

V1 5.8 G: Up the initial crack to a horizontal (#0.75 Camalot), then traverse left 10' to a handcrack (#2 Camalot). Up the handcrack, then step left into a brown water stream on the slab and up into the leaning corner and pine tree of Purple Rain.

3. Jemima Dreams   5.10a   TR   60'   

This route climbs a crack in a steep face between the top pitches of Purple Rain and Slabby McCracken.

4. Brainy McCracken   5.8   G   115'   

A nice alternative start to Slabby McCracken.

Start: 20' right of the Slabby McCracken, at a right-leaning, right-facing corner capped by a roof 25' up.

P1 5.8 G: Up the crack and right-facing corner to its end, then up easier terrain for 60'. Angle left on a slab to a belay at the base of a right-facing, right-leaning corner which deepens higher up (same belay as for P1 of Slabby McCracken). 115'

5. Suppertime   5.10a   G   100'

Start: 100' right of Jemima Dreams at the rightmost of four right-leaning cracks.

P1 5.10a G: Climb the hand- and fingercrack to its end. Move up and left past a scary dinner-table-sized detached flake, then straight up an open book for 15'. Continue up, then left on a big ledge to belay at a pine tree. 100'


Cliff 5: Summit Cliff

Summit Cliff, Overview (732K, last updated: 15 Mar, 2010)

Summit Cliff, Left End (736K, last updated: 26 Mar, 2010)

Summit Cliff, Prow Area (884K, last updated: 08 Nov, 2010)

Summit Cliff, Blade Area (974K, last updated: 08 Nov, 2010)

Approach: 1 hr, moderate

Directions: Park at the Turnpike Road Trailhead. Follow an excellent logging for 4 minutes to a huge field (an old logging header) where many smaller arteries branch off. There's a good view of the cliffs here. Bear slightly left and uphill, following occasional cairns. There are many intersections along this road, but stay on the main (most improved) logging road with cairns; you can occasionally see the cliffs, and you're aiming for the Tsunami Slab, the unmistakable wall with an overhanging wave-like feature at its top. Once directly in front of the Tsunami Slab, the logging road turns uphill and becomes more of a skid path that grows increasingly unpleasant (poor footing, steep, high weeds). The logging road ascends the wide forested bench in front of the Summit Cliff, so you can turn off to the right just about anywhere and reach the cliff. To reach the most popular area, just before the height of land, look for a herd path on the right, which is followed for 2 minutes to the cliff, reaching the cliff at the base of Handlebarbarism and Green Mountain Boys. The approach takes about 1 hour.

To reach the right end, look for the Blade feature—a 100'-high, right-arching arête that dominates the upper section of the cliff. Once level with this feature (which you can see from the approach road), look for a cairn and flagged trail on the right; this takes you to the right end in the vicinity of Crackus Interuptus.

1. Silver Lake Chimney   Class II      

The preferred approach to the top of the cliff, and an excellent destination for a hike. From Green Mountain Boys (where the trail reaches the cliff), walk left past Burnt Toast, hugging the main cliff. After several hundred feet the terrain rises steeply; continue uphill along the base of the cliff to a hidden 4'-wide chimney. This chimney has several giant chockstones; the most impressive is bridge formed by two leaning boulders at the top. Scramble up the chimney to emerge from the forest floor above.

2. Hot Tamale   5.9   G   80'   

Start: 100' left of Handlebarbarism is a large 8'-deep, right-facing corner that rises above a narrow ledge with large cedars 10' up. Begin on the left end of the ledge where the low-angle rock leads up to the right-facing corner.

P1 5.9 G: Follow a series of small right-facing corners, flakes, and small ledges heading for a prominent vertical crack 15' right of the right-facing corner. Follow the crack to a small ledge, and then climb a right-facing corner–crack to the top. 80'

3. Caspian Corner   5.9+   G   80'   

Start: At the very right end of the narrow ledge (as described for Hot Tamale).

P1 5.9+ G: Follow a crack system up and slightly left to gain a sharp left-facing corner. Up the corner to its top, then finish up cracks through a blocky section to a ledge with a "surfboard" and a belay tree behind it. 80'

Prow Area

4. Burnt Toast   5.7   G   260'

Start: 60' left of Handlebarbarism below an open book corner with a giant cedar 15' up. On the left wall of the open book corner (and 4' right of the toe of the arête that forms the left wall of the open book) is a fingercrack.

P1: (V1) Move up to the cedar and thrash past this to gain a left-leaning corner with a wide crack. Up the corner onto small holds on the face beyond. A few steps upward bring one to a large ledge with trees. Belay at birch tree. 60'

P2: Climb a short slab to the obvious layback crack above. Jam and layback to better holds at the cedar. Harder than it looks.Scruffy going ends at the mammoth terrace. Belay anywhere. 100'

P3: On the left side of the terrace is a stepped, left-facing dihedral. Straight forward climbing up the corner and cracks over much lichen finishes just short of the attractive summit. 100'

V1 5.9 G: Climb the thin fingertip crack on the left wall of the open book corner to an arête. Up the arête to join the regular route at the top of the left-leaning corner.

Descent: Walk off left and scramble down the class II chimney.

5. Beginner's Route   5.2   PG   80'

Start: Same as for Burnt Toast.

P1 5.2 PG: Climb up to the cedar, then work out right onto a slab, staying right of the tree-choked corner and left of the steeper section of the slab. A short fun crack ends at the lovely Window Box Ledge atop P1 of Green Mountain Boys. 80'

Descent: Rappel or downclimb the route.

6. Handlebarbarism   5.10b   G   90'   

Tenuous vertical crack that starts as fists and narrows to fingers, then offwidth.

Start: 12' left of Green Mountain Boys, at a handcrack that begins on a ledge 10' up with a cedar tree.

P1 5.10b G: Climb up onto a small ledge with a tree, then up a vertical crack, fists at first, then fingers, then opening to offwidth (#5 Camalot helpful) to a ledge. Continue up and left in the crack with a tree to a large ledge. Move up and right onto some low-angle slabs to a shared anchor with Green Mountain Boys on Window Box Ledge (an excellent, flat ledge system). 90'

Gear: Singles to 6".

7. Green Mountain Boys   5.10a   G   70'   

Start: 60' left of Great Northern Diver, where the trail meets the cliff, are two parallel crack lines 12' apart. This is the right-hand crack that begins above an overhanging bulge.

P1 5.10a G: Climb the handcrack through the bulge to a small ceiling. Continue up the handcrack in a left-facing corner to a second bulge, then up to a ledge. Another short corner past a bush ends at Window Box Ledge (an excellent, flat ledge system). 70'

Descent: Rappel from tree down the slab to the left.

8. Turning 21 Again   5.10c   G   90'   

Start: Below the obvious squeeze chimney between Green Mountain Boys and Great Northern Diver.

P1 5.10c G: Climb the slightly overhanging handcrack (crux) to the offwidth squeeze chimney that is followed to the top. 90'

Gear: To 5".

9. Great Northern Diver   5.10d   G   210'   

A thoroughly enjoyable climb. Indeed, the first pitch is on par with anything at the Battle of the Bulge buttress at Indian Creek.

Start: Below the right side of a dirty slab, above which is an unmistakable huge left-facing dihedral with an overhanging left wall. In front of this route, but set back from the cliff is a huge boulder (may be difficult to find mid-summer).

P1 3rd class: Scramble up the dirty slab (pulling on trees, etc.) and set a belay below the corner. 30'

P2 5.10d G: Climb the relentlessly steep, immaculate corner to a fixed anchor (back up with a 3" cam). 70'

P3 5.6 G: Continue up the crack, then left-facing corner to a large ledge system with a fixed anchor on a tree. 110'

Descent: Rappel

10. Hairy Upper Lip Drip   5.10b   G   100'   

Named for the constant drip of water that comes from the roof.

Start: From Window Box Ledge. Reach this ledge by climbing Beginner's Route, Handlebarbarism, or Green Mountain Boys.

P1 5.10b G: Up the handcrack in a corner to an impressive triangular-shaped overhang. Follow the crack on the right side of the overhang until it diminishes, then switch to the left crack (tight hands). Follow this crack as it widens (strenuous) to a stembox chimney (some loose rock) to the top. 100'

Descent: Three rappels starting from the fixed anchor on top of Finger Lickin' Good. 70m rope required.

11. Tales of Weakness   5.9   G   100'   

This is the proud line you can see from the road—a striking crack splitting the buttress on the upper left side of the cliff.

Start: On a ledge below the base of the crack. There are many ways to access the crack, the most direct being Great Northern Diver. It can also be reached from the Window Box Ledge. (The first ascent climbed Snapperhead, then traversed way left to access the crack.)

P1 5.9 G: Climb the striking right-leaning crack to a low angle slab. Gear anchor. 100'

Descent: Scramble right to the fixed anchor on top of Finger Lickin' Good. Three rappels with a 70m rope are required.

12. Finger Lickin' Good   5.10d   G   110'   

This is the prominent right-rising fingercrack right of Tales of Weakness. Awaits a clean lead (and maybe some cleaning in the upper crack).

Start: At the large cedar at the end of P3 of Great Northern Diver.

P1 5.10d G: Step down to a ledge and traverse left to the base of a handcrack. Straight up the handcrack for 10', then follow the right-angling crack to a tree. Go straight up a crack to a fixed anchor. 110'

13. Snapperhead   5.9   G   80'   

Start: 100' right of Great Northern Diver and right of a small "toe" of cliff is a slabby wall with a wide tree-filled crack near the middle and a left-facing corner system on the right. Begin in the left-facing corner.

P1 5.9 G: Follow the left-facing corner over several budges heading to a short finger crack beside a large roof. Finish to the cedar tree. 80'

14. Cedar Run   5.6   PG   80'

Start: 20' right of Snapperhead is a right-facing open book with a medium-sized oak tree growing 2' from the cliff. Begin a few feet left of this corner at a wide crack that leads into a cedar tree 20' up.

P1 5.6 PG: Climb the crack, then climb the cedars until they end. An obvious belay ledge is on your left. 80'

15. Blueberry Buttress   5.8   G   100'   

This crack splits a high buttress, which is easily seen from the trail, but completely invisible from the base of the cliff.

Start: 75' right of Snapperhead at a splitter, 30'-tall off-hands crack. There is a large oak tree 2' from the cliff face.

P1 5.7 G: Follow the crack to its top, then up a slabby corner to the trees. 70'

P1 5.8 G: Climb the left-facing corners to a large cedar–shrub–mat–mess. Continue up the offwidth and follow the fingercracks to the top. 100'

16. Unnamed13   5.7   PG   250'

Climbs the up the center of the left side of the main slab.

Start: 90' downhill and right from Blueberry Buttress is a large slab that leads to a huge, left-facing, open book corner at the top of the cliff. Begin on the left side of a cave at the base of the slab.

P1 5.7 PG: Follow a crack through a roof on its left side (or stand on a block and step right into the crack). Up the crack for 10' to a small spruce on a ledge. 20'

P2 5.7 PG: Move to the right end of the ledge to gain the slab, then wander up the slab to the top. 220'

Blade Area

17. Crackus Interuptus   5.10a   G   170'   

Start: High on the right end of the cliff is The Blade—a 100'-high, right-arching arête. Begin directly below the left side of The Blade at a fingertip crack in black rock, 10' right of a right-facing corner.

P1 5.10a G: Up the crack 40' to a bulge. Over the bulge to a pod (crux). Continue up the crack past a hanging cedar to a ledge below a headwall. Work up the steep crack in the headwall to an awkward move onto a slab. Up the slab and left-facing corner to a good ledge with an oak tree belay. 140'

P2 5.8+ G: Up a left-facing corner to a ledge, which is the left end of the Grand Traverse Ledge, and directly below the left side of The Blade. 30'

Descent: Walk right along the Grand Traverse Ledge.

Gear: To 3", emphasis on small cams and nuts.

18. It Goes to Eleven   5.11a   G   100'   

Start: At the left end of the black wall (the black wall as described in Tusk), 15' uphill and left from the low point of the dip, below a good horizontal 10' up.

P1 5.11a G: Up to a fragile block 10' up, then power up sidepulls and good buckets to the top of the black wall. A hard move gains the friction slab. Move up the slab to a dike, then up good edges in the slab to another dike. Foot traverse left 10', then over a black bulge to the left end of an overlap (gear). Move up and right to the Grand Traverse Ledge and a clump of oak trees on the left. 100'

Gear: Draws plus yellow Alien.

19. Tusk   5.8   PG   70'   

Start: Walk right from Crackus Interuptus to where the terrain dips below an overhanging black wall, 50' downhill and left of where you can walk left onto the Grand Traverse Ledge. Begin near the right end of the black wall, 10' up and right from the low point of the dip. (The winter route Pavlova also begins here.)

P1 5.8 PG: Climb up good incut buckets and sidepulls to a dike with a tooth-like spike (sling this for critical gear). Traverse left on the dike for 25', then friction up the face (some pods for protection) to the Grand Traverse Ledge and oak tree belay. 70'

Gear: Draws, long sling for the tooth, yellow Alien, #0 TCU.

20. Queen of the Jungle   5.10b   G   100'   

Start: The route begins on the Grand Traverse Ledge that horizontally splits the right end of the cliff. To access the ledge, walk up and right along the base of the cliff, past the Viewpoint, past an overhanging black wall (the location of It Goes to Eleven and Tusk) until below a deep, wet, groove that begins 30' up (the winter route Violent Stems). Cut back left onto a narrow tree-covered ledge (3th class) for 150' to a 30'-high, 3'-deep, left-facing corner with a 5" crack that narrows to hand size. There is a gnarled cedar 60' up in the crack, a huge cedar 10' below the ledge growing out of the cliff, and 20' right of a large healthy pine on the ledge with a fixed anchor.

P1 5.10b G: Power layback up wide crack and then jam the handcrack which quickly narrows to finger tips crack to a good rest at 30'. Above, the crack widens again to hand size, then back to fingers (crux) to a second rest. Continue up crack through an offwidth roof to a tree anchor. 100'

Gear: Up to a 4", doubles in the 1"–3" sizes.

Descent: 100' rappel back to ledge, then another 100' rappel to the base of the cliff (or reverse the 3rd class Grand Traverse Ledge).

21. North Dike   5.2   G   120'

This route provides access to the broad ramp below Wayback Cliff, reportedly more enjoyable than the Dirty Gully (imagine that). The route has a first pitch that begins at the actual cliff base, but it's nondescript vertical 4th class bushwhacking; the cleaner, well-defined upper portion of the route is described here.

Start: 200' right of the "switchback" (the point along the cliff base where you cut left onto the Grand Traverse Ledge to approach Queen of the Jungle) at a 3'-wide parallel-sided, low-angle chimney in a huge left-facing corner. (This is just right of the winter route Twilight Falls described in Blue Lines.)

P1 5.2 G: Climb the dike to the top. 120'


Cliff 6: Center of Progress Cliff

Center of Progress Cliff, Overview (836K, last updated: 15 Mar, 2010)

Center of Progress Cliff, Tooth and Nail Area (850K, last updated: 07 Sep, 2010)

Center of Progress Cliff, Silver Flake Area (901K, last updated: 07 Sep, 2010)

Center of Progress Cliff, Connecticut Yankee Area (937K, last updated: 07 Sep, 2010)

Center of Progress Cliff, Right End (952K, last updated: 07 Sep, 2010)

Approach: 30 min, moderate

Directions: Follow the approach to the Summit Cliff. After a marshy area (and before the trail begins to climb) there is a fork in the road. The Summit Cliff approach, which is the larger road, bears right. Take the left fork and follow logging roads as they contour the slope (some flagging here) to the west. Turn right (north) at a cairn and follow a well-cairned path uphill to the cliff in the vicinity of Connecticut Yankee 18T 0594460 4929514.

Loher Wall

Walk left from Connecticut Yankee about 10 minutes, uphill, following the cliff line until the terrain levels. The cliff diminishes in height. Look for the wet, 20' deep, right-facing corner that marks the start of Another Crack in the Wall.

1. Another Crack in the Wall   5.9   G   60'

Start: At the top of a cone-shaped sloped covered in pine needles, below an attractive crack.

P1 5.9 G: Follow the crack to a ledge, then up to another ledge below a left-facing corner capped by a small triangular ceiling. Up the corner and over the ceiling, then jam a crack up to a tricky finish. Lower from a fixed anchor on a pine tree. 60'

2. Mo'in The Mud   5.7+   G   60'

Start: 20' to the left of Franklin's Tower.

P1 5.7+ G: Climb a left-arching crack (crux) to a rest ledge. Continue up the crack to a steep, 10'-tall headwall. Climb the crack through the headwall and finish at a fixed anchor on a pine tree. 60'

3. Franklin's Tower   5.8+   G   80'

Start: 200' right of Another Crack in the Wall is a 20' deep, right-facing corner with wet, mossy cracks in the corner. Begin 12' right of the corner below a shallow right-facing corner with a handcrack. There is a large maple 6' back from the start of the route.

P1 5.8+ G: Up the crack, then up the right side of a small tower that vibrates alarmingly. Finish in a crack in a right-facing corner to a fixed anchor on a pine tree. 80'

4. The Dirty Mattress   5.8   G   70'

The flake stuck in the crack that makes the thin crux section is solid even though at first it looks hollow.

Start: 40' right of Franklin's Tower at a wide crack at the end of the buttress just behind a large oak tree.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the wide crack on its right side. After 10', step left to the start of a left-arching crack and climb to its top. There is a fixed anchor on a pine set back from the edge of the cliff to the right. 70'

5. Angry Hemorrhoid Chimney   5.4   G   60'

Reported as "a piece of shit." Perhaps better left as a winter route.

Start: Left of the Tooth & Nail Terrace, follow a ribbon of trees up and left to a position below a chimney breaking the upper wall.

P1 5.4 G: Follow the chimney to the top. 60'

Tooth & Nail Area

The Tooth & Nail Area is accessed from the Tooth & Nail Terrace, a slab positioned above the cliff base and below an unmistakable, 30'-wide, 15'-deep, rectangular roof 25' up. Approach from the right by scrambling up several ledges chocked with cedar trees.

6. African Barking Spiders   5.11a   PG   80'   

The gear takes up your hand holds making this a tricky lead. Very barn-doory.

Start: On the Tooth & Nail Terrace and below the rectangular roof is a large open book corner with a cedar tree. Begin 10' left of the corner at a crack in the left wall and below the left lip of the rectangular roof.

P1 5.11a PG: Make a few free moves up a thin crack, then continue up series of cracks 20' to the left end of the rectangular roof (crux, small wired nuts). Move around the roof and layback over easier rock to a rest (larger nuts). Above, the wall steepens and the crack thins. Tricky climbing brings one level with a belay ledge 10' left. Traverse left on flakes until above ledge, then downclimb to spacious belay (tiny birch). 80'

Descent: Rappel.

7. Tooth & Nail   5.10b   G   200'   

Start: On the Tooth & Nail Terrace, 25' right of African Barking Spiders, at a shallow left-facing corner 10' right of the right end of the rectangular roof 25' up.

P1 5.10b G: Go up the strenuous handcrack in the left-facing corner to a stance, then rail up and left following a very thin crack (crux) to a small right-facing corner. Follow perfect finger locks in corner to a roof. Climb through roof and continue up incredible corner (easier climbing) to a beautiful ledge with a fixed anchor. 90'

P2 5.7 G: Traverse right and climb a dirty chimney to cliff top. 110'

8. Oral Surgery   5.11b   PG   90'   

Start: Same as Tooth & Nail.

P1 5.11b PG: Up the strenuous fingercrack in the left-facing corner to a stance (same as Tooth & Nail). Continue straight up through some overlaps and a small left-facing corner to a ceiling. Traverse left under the ceiling, cross Tooth & Nail, and continue traversing left following a crack to reach an arête. Continue the traverse another 25' left to African Barking Spiders and finish on that route. 90'

Gear: Small gear, doubles to 1.5".

Silver Flake Area

9. Wish You Were Here Project

No details yet.

10. Silver Flake   5.8   G   270'

Start: Walk downhill past Wish You Were Here to a break in the cliff offering easy climbing though broken rock and spruce trees to large terrace with an oak tree.

P1: Climb easily past spruce trees to belay at large oak on terrace. 60'

P2: Walk back down to lichen-covered jam crack splitting a short wall (possible belay). Climb hand- and fist-crack up and around outside corner. The crack now becomes a spectacular hand traverse (the silver flake). Continue for 30' to belay stance on block. An especially fine pitch. 80'

P3: Traverse up and right over easier, though dirty, rock. Continue past small cedars to belay at the base of a large inside corner (big white cedar). 90'

P4 5.8 G: Up the wide crack in the corner until you can exit right onto a large ledge. 40'

11. Heroes Are Hard To Find   5.8   G   200'

The route is so-named because the first ascent party went left on P2 rather than climbing the strenuous alternative which is the line of Mystery to Me.

Start: At a shallow inside corner marked by three hardwoods close to the rock, 40' left of Cedar Root. Far above is P3 of Silver Flake.

P1: A few difficult moves off the ground and up the corner bring one to gradually easier climbing. Stem up widening corner on good horizontal holds to a fine belay on a block on the left. 80'

P2: Step right onto sloping terrace and make friction moves to jam crack leading to obvious downward facing flakes. Jam a few feet, then layback a sharp-edged flake (V1) until it's possible to stretch left to a rest at a balanced block. A hidden layback up a left-facing corner brings you to the area of the cedars on P3 of Silver Flake. Friction climb up into final corner. 80'

P3 5.8 G: (Same as P3 of Silver Flake) Up the wide crack in the corner until you can exit right onto a large ledge. 40'

V1 Mystery To Me 5.9- G: Take a deep breath and undercling the flake's fragile edge rightwards. As the flake trends upwards, the climbing eases and a rest is possible. A hidden finger traverse leads back left and the angle eases. Climb to final corner.

12. Cedar Root   5.9-   G   190'

A major feature, but unfortunately, far less inspiring than it looks.

Start: About 150' left of Connecticut Yankee, below a huge left-facing corner system that begins 80' up. This is 20' left of a white spire of rock leaning up against the main face, at a 5'-high left-facing corner with a shallow chimney-depression. There is an 8'-high block on the top of the left-facing corner.

P1 Crap is King (aka Dirty Laundry) 5.8 G: Climb up the chimney-depression past a dangerous chockstone to a sloped ledge, then up a wide crack past a cedar tree (on your right) to a large sloped ledge in a huge left-facing corner system. Gear belay. 90'

P2 5.9- G: Continue up a crack in a left-facing corner to a slab, then up this to a very large cedar, belay on top. 60'

P3 5.8 G: (Same as P3 of Silver Flake) Up the wide crack in the corner until you can exit right onto a large ledge. 40'

Gear: Standard rack up to 3.5".

Connecticut Yankee Area

13. Abracadabra   A2   105'

A work-in-progress that tackles an impressive chunk of rock.

Start: 75' left of Sinner Repent at a small crack that begins 15' up and leads to an overhang 30' up.

P1 A2: Go up the crack to the overhang (get a good #1 Camalot), then traverse right 15' to the base of another vertical crack. Up this crack to where it turns to a slab. 65'

P2 A2: Up a crack in the slab to a horizontal. Continue up the crack through a steep headwall to another horizontal crack below a roof. 50'

P3 A2: Traverse left, then up a left-facing corner to its top. 50'

14. Sinner Repent   5.10   G   250'   

Watch for ropes getting stuck in the crack. The first pitch can be used as an alternative to P1 of Connecticut Yankee.

Start: At a cave left of Connecticut Yankee with a 5" crack in the roof.

P1 5.10a G: Chimney up to crack. Traverse out left 12' under roof to a layback on the right side of the offwidth. Up the offwidth and chimney for 50' to a ledge (shared with Connecticut Yankee). Strenuous. 80'

P2 5.9 G: Continue up the chimney system until possible to traverse right to the right-hand of two cracks that split the headwall left of Connecticut Yankee. 170'

Gear: Doubles up to 6".

15. Connecticut Yankee (aka Interloper)   5.10d   G   280'   

A dramatic, obvious, and elegant line that finds a direct path to the top of the cliff.

Start: 100' left of the right-rising descent gully and 50' right of the cave start of Sinner Repent at a left-facing corner with cracks, 15' right of the major right-facing flake system 25' up.

P1 5.10d G: (V1) Follow the cracks to a small left-curving arch, then undercling and hand traverse left to a stance below a huge right-facing flakes above. (V2) Continue up the right-facing corner formed by the flake to a comfortable 3'-deep ledge. 100'

P2 5.10a G: Up a thin, flaring fingercrack for 50' to a right-facing corner. Up corner for another 15' to a handcrack, which turns into a left-facing corner. Up corner (easier) to overhang, over this to roof (piton). Over roof, then move up and right to an oak belay. 180'

V1 5.11+ G: Begin at a thin crack directly below the right-facing flakes above. Climb the difficult crack to join the normal route at the stance below the right-facing flakes.

V2 5.9 G: Work your way left on a small ledge to another stepped right-facing corner. Climb the jam crack at its back to a broad ledge. Scramble left, then back right to the belay ledge.

Gear: Doubles up to 3".

Descent: Two rappels to ground.

Right End

This is the minor buttress that begins immediately right of the descent gully at the right end of the Main Face. The buttress is approximately 200' right of Connecticut Yankee.

16. Whale Crack   A2   40'

An attractive practice route that is easily toproped.

Start: Immediately right of the descent route and facing the main cliff, below a right-leaning crack that begins 6' up, just above a indistinctive whale-shaped feature.

P1 A2: A tricky start gives way to more straight forward nutting higher up. 40'

17. Princess Leia   A1+   60'

An amazing line that has seen free attempts by some strong parties.

Start: Downhill and right from Whale Crack, 20' right of the outside corner in a dry cave, below a crack that breaks a large roof 8' up.

P1 A1+: Climb to the roof, then out to jug at the lip. Follow a fingertip seam to the left side of a second roof. Go past the roof on the left and into a left-facing corner. Free climbing (5.10) leads to the top. 60'

18. Atomic Vomit   A2   60'

Start: 10' right of Princess Leia at a crack in a small buttress 4' left of the left-facing corner of Early Onset Dementia.

P1 A2: Up the crack to a ledge, then up parallel crack to a large roof 25' up. Out the roof via a thin seam to the lip. Continue on aid a few more moves past a tree leaning against the rock, then free climb to the top. 60'

19. Early Onset Dementia   5.8   G   60'

Start: At a left-facing open book corner below a crack and chimney system that runs the full height of the cliff.

P1 5.8 G: Up the corner through a squeeze section and into a 4'-wide chimney which leads to the top. 60'

20. Tiguidou Pack-Sack   5.9+   G   70'   

An attractive corner climb named for a song that references the Adirondacks by La Bottine Souriante and, roughly translated, means "lets go back pack".

Start: 15' right of Early Onset Dementia (and the next open book corner right), at a crack that leads past two small ceilings. There's a suitcase-sized triangular boulder at the base.

P1 5.9+ G: Boulder the initial open book onto a ledge using a spooky (but solid) block. Stem and layback up the steep, undulating corner and pull onto a small ledge (crux) below the overhang. Move to the right under the overhang onto the face. Moderate cracks (5.7) lead to a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: To 3".

21. Rolls Royce   5.7+   G   70'   

A nice face start that finishes on the same cracks as the previous route. Sections of this route have been climbed previously as evidenced by a pin in the crack to the right.

Start: 5' right of Tiguidou Pack-Sack at a 12'-high, 2'-wide rib with pasted-on cubes.

P1 5.7+ G: Climb easily to the top of the rib, then place a good TCU under the overhang and step onto the face. Climb the face and arête to the left past a bolt. Head for a fingercrack (old pin easily backed up) and climb the crack and face to the left (crux) to a stance at the base of the upper cracks. Up the cracks (5.7) to a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: To 3".

22. In Hiding   5.10   PG   95'   

Named for a Pearl Jam song, and the fact that this excellent route ended up climbing much differently than anticipated. Good gear but tricky to place.

Start: 40' right of Rolls Royce and 15' left of a rubble-filled, left-facing chimney is a lighter-colored wall laced with horizontal seams. Begin at the only vertical seam on the wall below a good horizontal crack 8' up.

P1 5.10 PG: Boulder the start (reachy) to the stance. Climb the steep, sustained face (crux) using the thin crack and good horizontal holds. Aim for right-facing flakes that eventually lead left to the obvious crack–groove. Climb the crack and right-hand face, then mantle onto a ledge. Step up to a thin crack in a bulging wall, then climb the crack and cleaned face on the left (5.9). Climb easily to the top when the crack ends. 95'

Gear: To 3" with extra small and med TCU's and micro nuts. Also helpful are pink and red tri-cams.

Descent: Rap with a single 60m from the white pine at the top.

23. The Chipmunk Waltz   5.11a A0   80'

A work-in-progress, and reportedly pretty stiff.

Start: 50' downhill and left from the right-facing corner and chimney of Snarling Spiders below a right-leaning crack in an otherwise blank face, and in front of a large overhung boulder.

P1 5.11a A0: Work up the right-leaning crack that splits the blank face (be mindful of the overhung boulder behind you). At the fork, bear hug and slap your way up the cracks and steep face to a ledge. (The left fork seems to be the path of least resistance for the last 15'.) 80'

24. Trub   5.0+   X   80'

Used to access the top of the cliff.

Start: In an obvious corner 15' left of Snarling Spiders.

P1 5.0+ X: Up the gully, which quickly turns into 5th class terrain. 80'

25. Rock Hangers   5.10b   G   70'   

The name is a term used by a local to refer to climbers.

Start: 10' right of Trub and 20' downhill and around the corner (behind) Snarling Spiders below an obvious crack line front and center on the buttress.

P1 5.10b G: A steep start leads to beautiful hand jams and unique dike-rock jugs. 70'

Descent: Rappel from Ooops! I'm Pregnant.

26. Snarling Spiders   5.7   PG   80'

The first ascent used a headlamp to inspect the gear placements. Named for the large spiders inhabiting the chimney.

Start: Directly above the boulder field at the right end of the cliff, at an obvious right-facing corner formed by a free-standing block leaning against the main cliff. In the corner is a chimney–offwidth.

P1 5.7 PG: Up the chimney by climbing the fractured face tucked inside. When the chimney narrows, continue up the offwidth until forced onto the face. Finish on the face and through an overlap. 80'

27. Oops! I'm Pregnant   5.10c   TR   80'

A deceivingly difficult face climb—it looks 5.6. Climbs the face 10' right of Snarling Spiders. (This is the location of the winter route of the same name.)


Cliff 7: Tsunami Slab

Tsunami Slab (885K, last updated: 29 Sep, 2011)

Description: Easily visible from the road, this cliff is the most distinctive and unusual cliff at Silver Lake—a black slab capped by a tan-colored 100'-tall overhanging wave of rock. The cliff holds good potential for routes, such as the various cracks on the slab and the buttress left of the wave feature. The wave itself holds one of the most outrageous lines in the northeast, Oppositional Defiance Disorder.

You can reach the top by climbing Dirty Gully.

Directions: Approach as for the Summit Cliff. From the last view of the cliff, head uphill towards the Summit Cliff for several hundred feet (until about level with the base of the cliff), then cut right aiming for the left side of the slab. Avoid the talus directly below the slab, as it is a Bolivian jungle with 5'-tall poison ivy plants with 6" diameter leaves, some of the most healthy-looking PI in the park. Go uphill staying left of the talus to reach the cliff on its left side at a large right-facing corner beneath the left end of the wave. You can walk along the base taking exceptional care to avoid the amazing PI plants.

Due to the PI and complexity of the terrain, it is not recommended that you walk to Midway Cliff from here. Even though it looks close, you'll get cliffed and be forced to navigate PI-infested boulders. It's better to return to the logging road and follow the approach to Midway Cliff.

1. Dirty Gully   5.0   G   100'

This is a dike providing access through the lower cliff band (the nondescript cliff between Tsunami Slab and the Summit Cliff) to the top of the Tsunami Slab and the broad ramp below Wayback Cliff. It is dirty and messy, but it does provide reasonable access both up and down. It is located 200' uphill and left of the Tsunami Slab.

2. Two Socks   5.7   G   220'   

Reported to be better than it looks.

Start: 20' left of the large right-facing corner that leads to the left end of the wave, below a small right-leaning ramp in a slab.

P1 5.7 G: Up the ramp to its end. A steep move up a crack gains a lower-angled, heavily vegetated crack. Follow this for 40' to another 40' of easier terrain, then up a right-facing corner for 60'. Belay below a gully in a bottomless left-facing corner next to a large overhang on the right. 150'

P2 5.6 G: Go straight up the gully in the left-facing corner to the top. The right side of the gully is cleaner and more enjoyable, with good protection available in the right wall. 70'

3. Dead End   5.5 A1   150'

Follows one of the cracks (which one is still unknown) in the slab to the base of double cracks that break the wave feature.

4. Oppositional Defiance Disorder   5.14a   G   100'   

One of the most difficult trad climbs in the northeast: other than La Zébrée in Val-David in Quebec, this is the only all-gear 5.14 in the east. The route climbs the often-wet double cracks on the 100'-tall, 30 degree overhanging, wave-like wall.

Start: At the fixed anchor at the top of the slab, below the double cracks in the overhanging wall. (The first ascent party rappelled into this station, then fixed a static rope from here to the ground to facilitate repeated attempts on the upper wall.)

P1 5.14a G: Climb up slab 10' and pull into the crack system at a roof with a few chimney moves. Go up the techy crack 30', then move right into the other crack to "loaf" jug. Place a couple of cams and punch it 15' slapping up both cracks thru the crux until you get a good side pull jug and a big rest. Layback and jam up to small roof–overlap, pull the roof, then exit straight up.

Gear: Doubles on some pieces singles in others, from blue TCU to #2 Camalot. Quite a variety of placement options. The rock is solid except a crumbly section at the start, which may require placing cams close together.


Cliff 8: Midway Cliff

Midway Cliff (857K, last updated: 23 Mar, 2010)

Approach: 40 min, easy

Description: This nondescript cliff is located immediately right of the Tsunami Slab and holds a good selection of routes concentrated in a small area. The gem appears to be After the Bash, which has attracted many parties, each of which reported this as a "first ascent".

The reported routes are all located on the clean buttress on the left side of the cliff, just right of the talus field below the Tsunami Slab. At the highest point of the terrain on the left side is a prominent left-facing corner with a shallow, flared chimney and handcrack—this is Hangover Corner.

Uphill and right of Midway Cliff is the winter route Freezer Burn (also known as Confessional described in Blue Lines).

Directions: Approach as for the Summit Cliff. From the last small clearing in front of the Tsunami Slab, before the trail begins climbing in earnest, and just after a white boulder in the path (the size of a mini-fridge), turn right (east) and follow flagging. Cross a seasonal creek (that drains the Tsunami Slab) staying below the talus. After the talus, angle uphill to the cliff, aiming for the highest point on the terrain below the left side; about 10 min from the logging road.

Laundromat Ledge

On the left side of the cliff, 180' up, facing the Tsunami Slab, is a large ledge with a giant white pine growing on the prow, known as Laundromat Ledge. It is reached by climbing the first two pitches of After the Bash.

1. Upsidaisium   5.8 A2   135'

Has been freed, but needs a modern ascent.

Start: Walk to the left end of Laundromat Ledge, past a huge white pine, until beneath exciting-looking ceilings.

P1: Walk right from tree belay on wet mossy ledge to its end. Make an awkward mantel onto a spacious ledge with a juniper tree. 35'

P2: The first roof. Nail crack at left end of ledge 10' to ceiling. Aid out right beneath overhang 4' to its lip (2" to 2.5" bongs). Layback the steep crack above (5.8) to low-angle ramp. Belay. 50'

P3: The second roof—similar climbing but more exposed. Bongs straight up under roof brings you into the final lichen-filled dihedral. Climb free and aid to poplar tree belay at the top. 50'

Descent: Walk off right or make 2 short rappels from trees back to Laundromat Ledge.

Main Face

2. Curved Like a Wave   5.10a   G   100'

Start: 50' down and left from Hangover Corner is a 4'-wide chimney stuffed with trees and flakes. Scramble up the chimney for 30' to its top and belay from flakes that are stuffed into the top of the chimney, which is also the end of a wide tree ledge.

P1 5.10a G: Mantel past tiny red pine and onto low-angled arête. Follow cracks for pro through scoops to a finger-tip crack through a steep short headwall (crux). Cross a horizontal dike and belay in cracks just above. 100'

3. Schadenfreude   5.10b   TR   100'

Left of Fearless Leader is a right-facing corner below a tree-filled gully; left of this is a clean shield of rock. Begin below the clean shield and climb a black streak to a right-rising horizontal crack. Wander up to the anchor of Curved Like a Wave.

4. Fearless Leader   5.9-   PG   80'

Start: At the height of the terrain, 8' left of Hangover Corner and 6' right of a clean shield of rock.

P1 5.9- PG: Up the perfect black rock on left side of slab past solitary bolt. Continue straight up, stay right of lower-angle, right-leaning groove to belay at overlap beneath an overhang. 80'

5. Static Cling   5.9+   TR   70'

The slab is devoid of any natural protection; with some bolts, it will become a fine lead up smooth, clean granite. Begin 5' left of Hangover Corner and climb clean, tan-colored rock for 40'. Step right into Hangover Corner, which is followed to a ledge with an oak tree (this tree can be reached by scrambling in from the right). (There is a full-length winter route that begins here confusingly named After the Bash.)

6. Hangover Corner   5.4   G   60'

Involves stemming, chimneying, and jamming; easier and more pleasant than it appears.

Start: From the height of the terrain on the left side of the cliff, at an obvious left-facing corner with a flared chimney pod and handcrack.

P1 5.4 G: Up the corner. At the top, move right to a ledge with an oak tree. 60'

7. Arête's Syndrome (aka Before The Fall)   5.4   G   70'

Start: Same as Hangover Corner.

P1 5.4 G: Up the corner a few feet, then step right on good foot edges, following cracks to the arête. Up the arête for 30', then work back left into Hangover Corner, which is followed to a ledge with an oak tree. 70'

8. After the Bash   5.7   G (5.4 R)   370'   

The first route done on the cliff. The third pitch is highly recommended.

Start: 20' down and right from the height of the terrain at Hangover Corner, below an open book corner with a left-facing layback crack.

P1 5.7 G: Up a wide crack to an "A"-shaped overhang to gain the layback crack. Follow the layback crack through a pink bulge to a belay on a ledge with an oak tree (shared with Hangover Corner). 90'

P2 5.5 PG: (V1) From the left side of the terrace, scramble up easy rock, then make a few thin moves to gain a 4th class slab. Continue up slab to another large ledge with trees, Laundromat Ledge. 130'

P3 5.7 G (5.4 R): On the wall at the right rear of the terrace is an obvious, right-leaning crack leading to a hole. Super fun and acrobatic moves (improbable but with good gear) lead to a slab above. Traverse right (watch rope drag) into corner, then up an easy corner–chimney to a final 4th class topout in shrubs. 150'

V1: Traverse left across dike, level with belay ledge, until it is possible to climb through overhang (above the finish of Fearless Leader) and up sloping rock onto Laundromat Ledge. Although better climbing, this pitch is poorly protected.

Descent: Walk left and rappel from trees with two 60m ropes. First rappel leads to giant pine tree on Laundromat Ledge with a fixed anchor. Second rappel, 210', trends right to leave you 10' up Fearless Leader where you can scramble down.

9. Face Dances   5.8   R   90'

Start: 15' downhill and right of After the Bash.

P1 5.8 R: Step up easily onto the slab, then follow a left-rising ramp to a scooped overlap. Over this, then up the lichen-covered face to a ledge with an oak tree (shared with Hangover Corner). 90'

10. Attachment   5.9-   TR   40'

Begin 6' left of Easy Listening and climb a mossy slab to the tree ledge.

11. Easy Listening   5.7+   G   90'   

Start: 100' right of After the Bash at a low-angle slab below a tapering left-facing corner with a fingercrack.

P1 5.7+ G: Up the corner to its top, step right to a scoop. Up the scoop, then scramble to a tree ledge. From the back of the tree ledge, move up a crack in an open book corner to a ledge at its top, then traverse left to the top. 90'

12. Easement   5.3   G   70'

Start: 25' right of Easy Listening at a 5'-high open book corner with a left-leaning finger crack just above.

P1 5.3 G: Up the open book to gain the fingercrack. Up the crack to its top. 70'


Cliff 9: Outback Slab

Outback Slab (1004K, last updated: 15 Sep, 2011)

Approach: 1 hr, moderate

Description: Also referred to as The Brown Slab, this wall has a steep bottom, then after 80', the angle eases, changing character to a moderate slab with water streaks and some of the best friction anywhere. It has a flat, 40'-wide open area at the base where you can step back and admire the imposing 300'-tall slab in front of you. Much of the rock is super clean, especially in the water streaks.

Several of the established routes (Bimathalon, Morticia) have fixed protection where the climbing is difficult, then runout friction on easier terrain. The other routes wander over the moderate upper portion of the slab using sparse natural flakes and cracks for protection. It's easy to escape the forest canopy on this cliff, as you can wander up and right near the base of Pugsley and begin climbing from a high ledge. You are guaranteed solitude and excellent views.

Directions: From Midway Cliff, walk downhill and right in semi-open forest with boulders. Stay below a scrappy cliffband, the right side of which has a huge block jutting from a chimney (the Jutting Block Wall). From the right side of this cliff, continue another 50', then scramble straight uphill for 200' until you can cut back left on top of the Jutting Block Wall. The Outback Slab can be seen through the trees above. Continue left (avoiding the thicket immediately above), then go straight uphill to meet the Outback Slab on its left side. Walk downhill and right along the base to the beautiful open area at the lowest point 18T 595233 4929847.

1. Lurch   5.11b   G   240'   

Start: On the left side of the slab is an alcove. Begin below the super clean arête that forms the right side of the alcove, 40' uphill and left of Bimathalon (this is the location of the winter route Snow Queen).

P1 5.11b G: Up the arête, then move right onto the face. Work up the face (crux) to a good edge, then to a 3" crack. Move left to a scoop, then work rightwards to a fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.7 G (5.6 R): (V1) Step right and climb the bulging face straight up to where the angle eases. Join P2 of Morticia at the end of the traverse and run out super clean—but easy—friction to a fixed anchor. 100'

V1 5.6 PG: Follow a left-leaning crack system in super clean black rock to the top of the protectable section of the crack. Traverse right on friction with no gear 40' to the fixed anchor of Morticia. Minimal rack to 3". 140'

Descent: Rap the route in two 100' rappels.

Gear: Quickdraws.

2. Bimathalon (aka Silver Slab)   5.11a   G (5.6 R)   285'   

This highly recommended line has short, well-protected cruxes, excellent rock, and ascends an intimidating section of cliff. The top of P2 is dirty; it's best to finish on Morticia.

Start: At the left side of the flat area at the lowest point on the slab, below a crack in a left-leaning open book corner that begins 6' up.

P1 5.11a G: Make a layback move off the ground to gain the crack. Up the crack to its top (5.8), then move up to a dike (crux). Face climb up and right to a small, left-facing flake, then straight up a textured face to gain a stance with a fixed anchor. 80'

P2 5.10a G (5.6 R): Step left to a left-facing flake (dubbed Lawnchair Flake) and climb this to its top. Move up and right, then straight right (crux) to knobs and the line of Morticia. Go straight up on excellent holds to a shallow left-facing flake, then straight up to a tree island. 195'

Descent: 100' rappel down and left to the P2 anchor on Morticia, then a 100' down and left to the P1 anchor on Lurch, then 100' to the ground.

Gear: To 2". Double up on #1 and #2 Camalots.

3. Morticia   5.9   G (5.6 R)   370'   

Excellent face and slab climbing, with some of the best friction anywhere—the water streak on P2 and P3 is "sand blasted" clean and has been climbed without hands. The route begins right of Bimathalon, joins that route on P2 for a few feet, then crosses to its left to ascend a parallel water streak.

Start: 10' uphill and right of the flat area at the lowest point on the slab, below a left-leaning open book corner with a pinched-off thin crack. This is 50' right of Bimathalon.

P1 5.7 G: Up the corner to its top at a horizontal dike. Traverse left 15' (a 2" cam placed high in a crack protects the traverse.) on knobby holds in the dike, then up a featured face with knobs and edges to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 80'

P2 5.9 G (5.6 R): Straight up from the belay to a fragile, right-facing flake. Continue up the excellent knobby face, then a long runout to a bolt (shared with P2 of Bimathalon). Traverse directly left 20' to a black water streak which is followed straight up (amazing friction) to a belay seat and fixed anchor. Long runners are necessary to reduce rope drag. 150'

P3 5.3 R: Continue straight up the excellent water streak to a large pine tree at the top. 140'

Gear: A few small cams to 0.25" and one 2" cam.

Descent: Rappel with double ropes to the P2 anchor, then a single 200' rappel just makes it to the ground.

4. Gomez   5.6   PG (5.4 R)   390'   

Start: 100' uphill and right from the flat area at the lowest point on the slab, below some blocks, stacked 12' high, above which is a right-leaning crack, the only crack in this area (and difficult to see in heavy foliage). These blocks are at the height of the tree slope. The first pitch can be avoided by starting as for Pugsley.

P1 5.6 G: Clamber up the blocks to gain the right-leaning crack. Follow this to its end, then scramble up slab to a spacious, sloped ledge and a tiny tree belay (backed up with small cams in an overlap). 90'

P2 5.6 PG: This pitch climbs to the prominent lichen-covered headwall in the center of the slab. Climb up and left on large holds to a small flake with a piton, then traverse straight left aiming for a good right-facing flake. From its top, work straight up to the headwall. Traverse left under the headwall and belay 6' from its left end (cams to 1.5" for the belay). 150'

P3 5.4 R: Move left and climb directly over the headwall at a good crack. Continue up dirty slab to belay beneath summit overhangs. 100'

P4 5.4 PG: Escape left through mossy chimney. 50'

5. Uncle Fester   5.7   PG   300'   

Start: Same as for Gomez.

P1 5.6 G: Climb P1 of Gomez. 90'

P2 5.7 PG: Step left, then up over delicate friction until you can work right to reach obvious parallel cracks and protection (crux). Jam and undercling for a few feet up the perfect crack until its possible to stand up and gain the second crack. Move up to a hidden sickle-shaped ledge. (Large nut needed for belay.) An excellent pitch. 60'

P3 5.4 R: Run it out over moderate friction on lichen-covered rock. Finish at big white cedar. 150'

6. Pugsley   5.3   R   100'   

Fun climbing, but poor protection.

Start: From the start of Gomez, walk right 40' and scramble up a short buttress, then up steep easy terrain above to a three-trunked oak tree beneath a jet-black, left-leaning crack on the extreme right side of the slab.

P1 5.3 R: Climb up to the black crack and follow this as it leans left to its end. Gain the wide, winding, trough-shaped, super-clean water groove. and follow this to the huge jutting boulder at the top-right side of the slab. Belay at the base of the boulder. 100'

Descent: Walk off right to the trees and scramble back to the base of the route.


Cliff 10: Wayback Cliff

Wayback Wall (591K, last updated: 16 Mar, 2010)

Approach: 1 hr 45 min, difficult

Description: Sitting above (and behind) the Summit Cliff, this extensive cliff is a complex assortment of broken buttresses, slabs and corners with a very long approach. There is definite potential for routes, but perhaps not the quality lines that exist on the other cliffs, and so far nothing obvious justifies the long approach. The route Mr. Peabody ascends the most obvious large feature.

Directions: Since Wayback Cliff sits above the right end of Summit Cliff, the easiest approach would seem to be through a weakness at the right end of the Summit Cliff. Here are the known options:

Option 1: Climb Dirty Gully on the Tsunami Slab.

Option 2: Approach the right end of the Summit Cliff, then climb the obvious North Dike to the top of the cliff. Hike downhill along the open cliff top, then turn left into the forest; several minutes of bushwhacking bring you to the Wayback Cliff, just left of Mr. Peabody.

Option 3: Approach the left end of the Summit Cliff, then scramble up Silver Lake Chimney. At the top, turn right through open forest to reach the open summit area (above Tales of Weakness, etc). Continue hiking downhill staying on the open slabs near the edge. After a 5 min (or so), when you can look back and see a good portion of the Summit Cliff behind you, turn left and bushwhack for several minutes to reach Wayback Cliff.

1. Mr. Peabody   5.7      

Needs a modern ascent.

Start: Just left of the lowest point of a smooth, narrow slab which is below a huge left-facing corner with trees.

P1: Crux. Friction upwards staying right of the bushy groove. From the little cedar, traverse right on a small dike to a rest. Continue over better holds, while heading toward a birch on the right. Belay on flakes. 100'

P2: Straight up on thin holds (no protection) until the angle eases. Aim for blocks in the lower corner of the dihedral below the short chimney. Belay at trees.

P3: Climb 8' up the chimney past a cedar and walk up the corner past more blocks to a belay on moss.

P4: Walk left to a clean slab. Friction upwards over solution pockets with little protection. Thrash through dirty and awkward, but short overhangs at a cedar to lichen and the top.

Descent: Walk left and rappel.

2. Spelunker   5.4+      

[not sure where this route is on the cliff...could be anywhere.]

A black bear strolled past the foot of this climb while the first ascent party was still on the first pitch.

Start: This route is on the second level and leads directly to the summit. The start is found at a pair of open book corners leading upward to a ledge.

P1: Climb the left open book corner past the tree to the ledge. Follow a rising diagonal crack rightward to a small ledge with trees and brush.

P2: Crawl through the cave behind the belay ledge to a larger ledge. Climb to the summit.


Cliff 11: Potter Mountain Cliff

Potter Mountain Cliff, Overview (911K, last updated: 10 Oct, 2011)

Potter Mountain Cliff, Left End (3588K, last updated: 11 Oct, 2010)

Potter Mountain Cliff, Shangri La (864K, last updated: 10 Oct, 2011)

Potter Mountain Cliff, Main Face (961K, last updated: 10 Oct, 2011)

Potter Mountain Cliff, The Ghetto (648K, last updated: 10 Oct, 2011)

Description: Located below the summit of Potter Mountain, this cliff looks low angle, as though one can romp up in sneakers. Don't be deceived! It's as high as the main face at Poke-O Moonshine, steep, and with no obvious bottom-to-top natural lines. Shangri La is the water streaked section on the left side and is unique—one of the best faces in the park—with acres of clean, dimpled rock, as though someone has scoured the face with a pressure washer. The climbs are dramatic and exposed, but never desperate, with spacious belay ledges and straight-forward rappels (although, be aware that several rappels are just over 100' and require two ropes).

Best of all, the summit of this cliff is wide, flat, open rock—a stunning setting—remote, private, and one of the best views anywhere.

To access the top of the cliff, hike left along the base to a steep 4th class gully. Up the gully, then head left to a low-angle slab which is followed to the top.

Aspect: South

Approach: 45 min, easy.

Directions: From the Goodrich Mills Trailhead, follow the logging road for 15 minutes to a large clearing, an old logging header, with good views of the cliffs above. This serves as a hub for many smaller roads; angle 45º to the right across the clearing and continue on a good, grassy logging road for another 15 minutes to the height of land between Potter Mountain and Little Potter Mountain. There is a clearing here with views of the cliff. Continue along the road another minute of level walking to where you can see the base of the cliff on your left—there is a brush pile on the left 18T 595939 4929981, and on the other side is a weed-covered skid path that leads directly to the right end of the cliff. Walk back 40' (look for a small cairn on the side of the logging road) and head into the forest, following a herd path parallel to the skid path towards the cliff (the actual skid path goes through a bog). The forest is fairly open and the going is easy to the base of the cliff, about 5 minutes of bushwhacking.

The trail reaches the cliff near the right end of the Ghetto 18T 595744 4930076; walk left. The cliff is 1/2 mile wide and the terrain goes uphill through intermittent jungle. It takes another 15 minutes to reach Shangri La.

Left End

1. Where's Ian   5.8   X   375'   

An excellent pitch with no bottom. The cleanest approach, described here, requires 5.10 climbing and a long traverse. Not a route if 5.8 is your leading limit.

Start: At the oak tree at the top of P1 of Bears, Beets, Battlestar Galactica. Alternatively, you can approach P2 by hiking up the left side of the cliff, then traversing right on the ledge to the right-facing flake system; vegetated 4th class.

P1 4th Class: Traverse left along the ledge to a right-facing flake system rising off the ledge. 180'

P2 5.8 X: Climb the flake to its top, then go up a slab to a horizontal at a chicken head. Creative gear leads to spicy climbing up a black streak to base of a fingercrack. Follow finger crack to its top and break out left onto a slab. Head for the hand crack to the left which is followed to its top where it disappears. Easy slab leads to the top with no obvious anchor (i.e., lasso a boulder). 195'

Descent: Walk (climber's) left and scramble down the left side of the cliff, or walk right and rappel Bears, Beets, Battlestar Galactica.

2. Bears, Beets, Battlestar Galactica (aka Three B's)   5.10d   G (5.4 R)   280'   

The last pitch is a prize of sustained complexities. The other pitches are fun, one-move wonders. P3 is often wet.

Start: Walk left from the left end of the tree terrace of Piece Out to an open area with large boulders and recent rockfall. This is the only clear, open area in the vicinity with good views to the top of the cliff. Begin on a ledge 10' up with a huge oak tree.

P1 5.10a G: Go straight up the slab on good holds, then make a desperate friction move to a large ledge. Walk left, then climb blocky terrain with good cracks up and left to a ledge with an oak tree. 90'

P2 5.9 G (5.4 R): Go straight up the steep face. Traverse right (crux) to a good stance, then wander up and right on easy terrain to a fixed anchor at the base of a black, left-facing corner in the headwall above. 90'

P3 The Black Corner 5.10d G: A great pitch: go straight up the corner, then move left under a ceiling to a final mantel move. Step back right over the ceiling, then go straight up to a large pine tree with a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws plus a few cams up to 3/4".

Descent: Rappel 100' to the top of P2, then 120' to the ground. For the last rappel, a 60m rope just makes it to the ledge where you can walk right.

Shangri La

Near the center of the cliff are two prominent, wide, full-height water streaks of super clean rock. The right-hand streak is nearly pink in color and has a 12'-high rock pancake leaning up against the base. Below the left-hand streak is a large open area with a pile of car-sized boulders leaning up against the face—Brazilian and Stop Making Sense begin here.

The dimpled climbing here is the best of its type in the northeast. It's dimpled and clean for a reason—it's often wet from water flowing out of huge horizontal cracks below the summit. On the positive side, some pitches are quick to dry. The driest routes are Garden of Leadin', Jug-Or-Not, Poker Face, Piece Out, P1–P3 of Stop Making Sense, P1 of Groovitational Pull, and Where the Wild Things Are.

The cliff is broken at mid height by a large traverse ledge, making it very easy to move about and link together pitches from various routes. Parties have been known to haul a pack with water and lunch to the mid-height ledge and spend the day climbing just the top pitches.

Shangri La faces south and receives full sun making this an ideal cold-weather crag. If it's sunny, even if it's 15 degrees at the car, you can still climb in a T-shirt.

Gear: Bring a single rack of nuts and cams up to 3" to the cliff. Although most pitches have fixed protection, nearly every pitch requires one or two trad placements as noted in the descriptions. There are many long pitches here, so two 60m ropes are required for most rappels.

3. Pothead   5.12a   G   80'   

This atypical Potter route climbs a steep, juggy wall with dynamic, crimpy moves. The top anchor is accessible by easy climbing left from the P3 anchor of Stop Making Sense.

Start: 50' left of Garden of Leadin' at a large white pine. (Reach this ledge by climbing P1 of Piece Out or Poker Face.)

P1 5.12a G: Move up to a stance and a good jug 15' up. Make a big move to a horizontal edge. Mantel and crimp onto the edge (crux), then make a series of big moves between good edges straight up until the angle eases. Continue straight up to a fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Draws.

4. Garden of Leadin'   5.10d   G   130'   

Technical, steep face and flake climbing characterizes this gem, that is if you can pull the first mantel move. (You can traverse left on a ledge from the start of P2 of Piece Out to avoid the crux mantel, making the overall grade 5.10b.)

Start: On the sloped ledge accessed by climbing P1 of Piece Out or Poker Face, 20' left of the clump of trees at the start of P2 of Piece Out. A few 1" and smaller cams are needed for the belay.

P1 5.10d G: Mantel onto a ledge (crux), then up good holds to a right-facing flake. Up the flake to its top, then wander up the face, first to the right, then back left under an island of perched boulders. Continue up the face to a sloped ledge. Walk 25' right to a fixed anchor (shared with Piece Out, P3 of Stop Making Sense, Jug-Or-Not, and Poker Face). 130'

Descent: Rappel Piece Out, or climb the last pitch of Stop Making Sense.

Gear: Draws.

5. Piece Out   5.9+   G   170'   

High-quality face climbing on incut edges and flakes.

Start: Walk 250' left from the pile of car-sized boulders that marks the start of Stop Making Sense, then back right onto a tree-covered terrace. Begin near the right end of the terrace below a short right-facing corner 7' up.

P1 5.7 G: Up the corner, then up buckety goodness to a horizontal dike. Traverse left, then mantel onto the dike (crux). Continue left in the dike to gain a large sloping ledge. Belay at the top of the ledge at a clump of trees (at the time of this writing, there is a large, dead tree hanging down this ledge, the stump of which is well anchored in the clump of trees). This ledge can also be reached by walking left from the top of P1 or V1 of Brazilian, or climbing P1 of Poker Face. 70'

P2 5.9+ G : Wander up the steep face on fantastic incut holds and flakes to a fixed anchor (shared with P3 of Stop Making Sense). A great pitch. 100'

Descent: Finish on Stop Making Sense, or make two rappels with a single 60m rope (which barely makes it).

Gear: Draws plus 1 ea #1 Camalot, yellow Alien.

6. Jug-Or-Not   5.11c   G   120'   

Intricate, puzzling, and stellar.

Start: On the sloped ledge accessed by climbing P1 of Piece Out or Poker Face, 20' right of the clump of trees at the start of P2 of Piece Out, and 15' left of the start of P2 of Poker Face, beneath an obvious flake-jug 8' up, and just right of a small oak tree.

P1 5.11c G: Grab the jug and make a high, shoulder-ripping undercling to reach a good hold (crux), then go straight up the face, eventually angling left to a fixed anchor (shared with P3 of Stop Making Sense). 120'

Gear: Draws.

7. Poker Face   5.9+   G   210'   

Another quality face climb. The first pitch ends at a huge ledge, and is the best way to approach P2 of Peace Out, and Garden of Leadin', and Jug-Or-Not.

Start: At the left side of the open boulder pile, in front of the leftmost boulder leaning up against the cliff.

P1 5.9 G: Scamper up the outside face of the boulder to a position just left of its high point. At a horizontal on the cliff (#3 Camalot), foot traverse left 5', then climb straight up the black face and mantel onto a horizontal dike. Continue straight up with a pure friction move and up to a ceiling. Pull over this onto a ledge with interesting white crystals. Step left and belay at an oak tree. 70'

P2 5.9+ G: Move the belay 15' left to another oak tree. Climb a steep face straight up to where the angle eases. Continue up and left (runout, but very easy) to join P3 of Stop Making Sense to a fixed anchor. 140'

Gear: Draws plus 1 ea #3 Camalot.

Descent: Rappel Peace Out (2 rappels with one 60m rope).

8. Brazilian   5.10a   G   240'   

The first hard, direct line to the top of the cliff with a little of everything—chimney, fingercrack, and amazing face climbing on dimpled rock. The first two pitches can be combined with attention towards rope management. (Brazilian ascends the same line as the winter route Same As It Ever Was, also named Siamese Left in Blue Lines).

Start: Same as Stop Making Sense.

P1 5.10a G: (V1) From the back of the boulder cave, move up behind blocks and into a left-facing, left-arching, bombay chimney. Up the chimney to where it narrows to fingers. Go through a bulge (crux), then up a left-facing corner to its top. Angle up and left to a perched boulder. 60'

P2 5.10a G: Straight up the black face above the perched boulder to a crack below a left-rising overlap. Over the overlap on cool edges, then straight up the black face (stay right of a naturally trimmed bush) to a fixed anchor on Belly Button Ledge. 50'

P3 5.10a G: Move right from the belay and step up to a black wall below a crack that begins 6' higher. Up the crack to its top, step right, then go up and right to a right-facing, pointed flake. Work left on a rail, then up the crimpy face to where the angle eases. Run up the dimpled slab to a final tricky move to the fixed anchor. An excellent pitch. 130'

V1 5.5 R: An alternative to the first pitch. From the top of the boulder pile (described in Stop Making Sense), step up onto left-trending dike, then walk left along the dike to a 10'-high right-facing flake. Up the flake to a ledge, then up unprotected friction to an overlap (gear). Move right, then up onto a ledge. Walk right to the perched, protruding boulder. 110'

Gear: P1: to 5". P2: draws plus a #3 Camalot. P3: draws plus yellow Alien, large nut, red Alien.

Descent: A 120' rappel returns to Belly Button Ledge. Another 100' rappel returns to the ground.

9. Once in a Lifetime   5.10d   G   110'   

One of the purest dimpled face climbs to date—very sustained with few rests. If you climb it exactly correctly, it may be 5.10b, but in the sea of polished black knobs, that's really hard to do on sight.

Start: At the fixed anchor on Belly Button Ledge.

P1 5.10d G: Move up to the overhanging wall above the belay and make a boulder move over a bulge onto another ledge. Follow a hollow undercling flake up and left to its top, then step right onto the black, dimpled face. Go straight up the amazing, sustained, black face to where the angle eases, then run straight up to join the final move of Brazilian to the fixed anchor. 110'

Gear: Draws plus an optional #0 TCU.

Descent: Rappel 120' to the Belly Button Ledge.

10. Stop Making Sense   5.8   G   380'   

A full-length moderate with excellent and varied climbing on clean rock with exposed positions. The upper section of the route has several brief sections of 5.7 as it makes long traverses on sloped slabs below rolling waves of clean rock, each time finding an unlikely path upwards. To reach the summit, from the top anchor, scramble left 25' to a ledge with oak trees (excellent bivvy-like recess here), then up a brushy right-facing corner to the top.

Start: Locate the pile of car-sized boulders leaning up against the face. Begin in a boulder cave on the right side of the boulder pile, below a left-facing corner and arête.

P1 5.8 G: Stem up the mouth of the cave to gain the arête that forms the left-facing corner. Up the arête (crux) to a good stance on the right-hand face. Climb a shallow left-facing corner, then step right to a black streak and follow this to a ledge with a large oak. 80'

P2 5.4 PG: Traverse left behind and on top of a knobby fin to a wide, right-leaning crack. Up the crack to Belly Button Ledge—a wide comfortable ledge. Walk left to a fixed anchor high on the ledge. 60'

P3 5.7+ G (5.2 R): Move the belay to the left end of Belly Button Ledge (there's a good ledge down and left with a gear belay). Traverse left to The Sausage—a 10' long torpedo-shaped boulder resting on a head-high ledge. Mantel onto the right end of The Sausage, then up a steep face (crux) to where the angle eases. Traverse left 60' on a sloping left-rising ramp, past some cedar bushes, to a fixed anchor below a second steep headwall. 90'

P4 5.7 G: Step right and climb the bulging face and slab above to a headwall. Traverse right on a knobby slab below the headwall to its right end. Continue rightwards on steeper friction for 20', then up and left to a ledge. Step right to an exposed position with a fixed anchor on the right end of a narrow ledge. 150'

Descent: Rappel 120' to the Belly Button Ledge, then 100' to the ground.

Gear: Minimal rack to 1.5".

11. Groovitational Pull   5.10a   G   260'   

Amazing, sustained face climbing for 2 pitches. The second pitch has outstanding position.

Start: 4' left of Where the Wild Things Are, at the left end of a horizontal crack at chest height. The first 60' is trad.

P1 5.10a G: Up the face to a pod in the prominent left-rising crack (3" cam). Up the face to a thin seam, then up to a crack which leads to a ledge. Step left and work straight up the steep wall to a good ledge (with an amazing belay seat) and a fixed anchor. 140'

P2 5.9+ G: Work up and left on black flakes, then straight up to the top of a right-facing flake. Angle up and right to the base of a steep wave in the water groove; over this (crux, brilliant moves), then straight up to a fixed anchor below the lichen-covered summit headwall. 120'

Gear: Draws, small nuts, 1 ea 0.75" cam, 0.25" cam, 3" cam.

Descent: Two rappels (120', 140') to the ground.

12. Where the Wild Things Are   5.10b   G   330'   

Another full-length route with a dramatic topout that finishes on the flat table-like summit.

Start: Right of the Stop Making Sense clearing and boulder pile is a low slab topped by a left-rising 4th class ledge. Start in the center of the slab below the right end of a left-rising crack that begins 5' up.

P1 5.10b G : An especially fine and varied pitch. Move up the wall past the right end of the left-rising crack, then up and right to a stance. Go up and right on pure friction to a bulge, then straight up to the 4th class ledge at the top of the slab. Go straight up the headwall on crimps, then traverse right to a right-facing flake. Up the flake to its top, then straight up nippled rock to an oak tree belay. 170'

P2 5.6 G: Move 4' left of the oak tree and climb a left-facing corner to a hanging cedar. Move right to a horn on the arête, then up the arête to a dirt ledge at its top. Gear belay (cams to 1") in a good horizontal above the ledge. Can be combined with the next pitch. 40'

P3 5.8 G: Go straight up the unlikely dimpled face (sustained 5.7+) above the belay to the summit headwall, aiming for a left-facing, lichen-covered corner with many horizontal cracks. Go up and right into a cave (the Hermitage). Move left out of the cave's mouth onto a nose, then step left into the lichen-covered left-facing corner. Up the corner to the flat table-like summit. Gear to 3" for the belay. 120'

Gear: P1: draws. P2-P3: sparse rack to 3".

Descent: Walk left and downclimb the brushy corner above Brazilian (4th class), then rappel that route.

Shangri La: Pink

The pink-colored water streak (the one above the 12'-high rock pancake leaning up against the base) is split horizontally in the middle by a wide, deep, smile-shaped ledge, completely hidden from below. The upper pitches here have some of the best dimpled rock anywhere (and the location of the winter route Siamese Right described in Blue Lines). To access this ledge, climb P1 of Positive Latitude. Alternatively, you can climb the P1 of Where the Wild Things Are or Goovitational Pull (or any route that goes to Belly Button Ledge), then traverse right to the left-facing corner at the top of P1 of Where the Wild Things Are. Continue right to where the ledge ends, then step down 6' on a slab (5.1) to a hidden foot ledge. Continue rightwards on a narrow ledge that leads to the major smile-shaped ledge that splits the pink-colored water streak. This point is 200' right of the fixed anchor on Belly Button Ledge.

Both routes finish at a somewhat hidden fixed anchor at the top of the wall. From here, you can walk right, then back left to reach the table-flat summit.

Descent: Rappel 190' to the smile-shaped ledge. A second rappel from the oak on the left side (the P1 belay for Positive Latitude) returns to the ground. Or, reverse the traverse (5.1) back to the top of P1 of the other routes.

13. Positive Latitude   5.10b   G   320'   

The second pitch has the best dimple climbing in the park, or perhaps anywhere for that matter. A very special route.

Start: At the left side of the pink water streak 100' right of Where the Wild Things Are and 40' uphill and left of the pancake leaning up against the main face, below a shallow, 20'-tall, right-facing corner that begins 15' up.

P1 5.10b G: Up the right-facing corner to its top, then step right and climb straight up the face past some creaky flakes to a headwall where the angle steepens to vertical. Angle right through the steep wall (crux) to the smile-shaped ledge. Set a directional (#1 Camalot), then scramble easily up and left to an oak tree on the upper left side of the ledge. 160'

P2 5.9 PG: Climb up and right on the black face to a stance. Traverse right a few feet, then go straight up a sea of dimpled rock, past a right-facing flake, to a right-rising ribbon of extra large knobs. Follow the knobs up and right to another right-facing flake, up this to its top, then step into a rust-colored pocket. Continue straight up the dimpled black face to where the angle eases, then run up the slab to the headwall. Climb the headwall (2" or 3" cam) to a fixed anchor (shared with Every Inch Counts). 160'

Gear: P1: Draws plus 1 ea #1 Camalot, #2 Camalot, medium nut. P2: Draws plus a 2" or 3" cam.

Descent: Rappel the route with two 60m ropes.

14. Every Inch Counts   5.10a   G   190'   

A rope stretcher and another amazing, sustained line on varied, dimpled rock. This route has no lower pitch and is accessed from the smile-shaped ledge

Start: On the right side of the smile-shaped ledge is a clean left-facing corner. Belay here (a 3"–4" cam provides the only belay protection), and begin 5' left of the corner.

P1 5.10a G: Go straight up the dimpled face to a shallow, right-facing corner that arches right at its top. Up the corner, then move right out the arch to a good undercling at its right end. Move over the arch on crimps (crux), then go straight up the dimpled face to where the angle eases. Run up the slab to the headwall (joining Positive Latitude here), then up (2" or 3" cam) to a fixed anchor (shared with Positive Latitude). 190'

Gear: Draws plus red Alien, blue TCU, 2" or 3" cam.

Descent: Rappel Positive Latitude with two 60m ropes.

15. Scary Potter Traverse   5.10c   G   160'   

Well-protected, but it is, after all, a traverse, and scary for both the leader and the follower. Spectacular.

Start: Same as Honeybadger.

P1 5.10c G: Climb Honeybadger to the shallow, right-facing corner. Once in the corner, move left to another left-leaning, shallow corner and follow this cool feature to its top. Traverse 40' left using barely perceptible crystals for feet and no hands. At the end of the traverse, undercling a flake and reach up to better holds; follow these to the top where Positive Latitude joins in from the left. Run up and left on easy ground to the fixed anchor on Positive Latitude. 160'

Gear: 14 quickdraws. Bring long runners to reduce rope drag.

16. Honeybadger   5.10a   G   90'   

Varied and well-protected. The route unfortunately doesn't reach the smile-shaped ledge, but the climbing is so good, who cares?

Start: On the left side of the "pancake" (between the "pancake" and the "sausage"), 40' right of Positive Latitude.

P1 5.10a G: Go to the top of the "sausage", then up a clean face, angling left to a good hold at the left end of an overlap. Undercling right 6' (crux), then move up to a stance just left of a large, triangular, held-on-by-magic flake. Go straight up and mantel onto a ledge, then up a shallow, right-facing corner to its top. Move up and right to a jug, then up and right to another jug (aka the "double rightwards whammy"), then go straight up the black face on great holds to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: Draws.

Main Face

17. Morningside Heights   5.10a   G (5.4 X)   80'

Much harder than it looks, especially if you're short.

Start: At a right-leaning ramp, 180' left of the large left-facing corner of Never Again, Again.

P1 5.10a G (5.4 X): Hard moves and good gear near the ground lead to the corner. Up the corner (5.4, no pro) to its top, then angle back left on a steep face with increasingly better holds to a good ledge with trees. 80'

18. Never Again, Again   5.7   PG   300'

A typical recon route—"shit line with death blocks"—this route explores the tallest section of cliff and ends less than halfway up the wall. The start seems appealing, but despite being ascended by two separate parties, the route has poor belays and crap rock and is not recommended. Positioned right of center at a point just left of where the terrain rises steeply uphill to the left, is a large, broken left-facing corner, the right wall of which forms an appealing arête. Begin here and climb to the top of the corner to a small ledge below clean face with a right-facing corner and a crack to its right, 50' below a distinct left-facing, left-rising dihedral. Up the crack in the face to trees at the base of the corner. Follow the corner (or face below) to a tree ledge. Two rappels from trees return to the ground.

19. Bonanza Lunchbox   5.10b   PG   160'   

Start: Same as Never Again, Again.

P1 5.10b PG: Stem up between the gully and the arête to arrange some solid RPs, then move up to large holds on the arête to gain a stance (crux). Move right to a crack and follow this over a steep bulge-ceiling, then continue up semi-loose (but moderate) blocks and cracks to trees. Belay in an off-vertical hand- and fist-crack. 160'

Descent: Rappel from small trees to the ground.

The Ghetto

The Ghetto is the first section of cliff you reach on the approach trail. It's 100' tall and very steep with only a few lines of weakness. The Ghetto is separated from the main cliff by a right-rising gully.

20. Leroy Brown   5.11+   G   100'   

Sustained and gymnastic crack climbing under a roof. Awaits a clean lead.

Start: 25' left of Zebra in a small cave below the left end of a horizontal crack that shoots out right, around a bulging arête, then angles up and right across a brown wall.

P1 A1: Climb the large right-trending horizontal crack under the roof to a bulging arête. Negotiate the arête, then move back into the crack that now rises up and right. Jam and layback the crack until you can break the roof feature up to a ledge. Climb a handcrack to a ledge with a refrigerator-sized block–flake. Step right and follow a crack to a fixed anchor on the ledge. 100'

Gear: Rack to 6" with doubles of #1,#2 and #3 Camalots.

21. Zebra   5.9   G   130'   

Start: First locate a prominent right-facing, right-leaning corner that starts at the ground and wraps around a bulge and shoots up and right at a 45º angle. Begin 40' right of this corner at a second right-leaning fingertip crack in black and white striped "zebra" rock.

P1 5.9 G: Up the fingertip crack and over bulge to the left-hand end of a large ledge. Follow ledge and crack system at base of headwall to its right end at a left-facing corner capped by a protruding finger of rock. Surmount finger to a ledge with huge, detached, 8'-high block. Over the top of the block, then finish up a stepped face with cracks to a tree ledge. 130'

Gear: To 3" with an emphasis on small to medium.

22. My Name is Hud   5.8+   G   130'

Start: 30' right of Zebra below a left-facing right-leaning corner with a fingercrack.

P1 5.8+ G: Boulder up to the corner (no pro), then follow the corner to its top. Fight your way over a birch tree, go up a chimney, then up ledges. Finish up a short left-facing corner to low-angle slab and trees. 130'

23. Bodega   5.9+   G   50'   

Start: 150' left of where the trail meets the cliff, and 200' right of Zebra, below a left-facing right-leaning corner with a fingertip crack.

P1 5.9+ G: Climb the corner to a hanging stance at its top. Rappel from fixed gear. 50'

Upper East Side

The Upper East Side is the wall above the tree-covered, sloped terrace on top of the Ghetto.

Directions: Follow the trail leftwards along the base of the Ghetto to where it ascends steeply up and left. Look for an easy gully that breaks up and right to the tree slope at the top of the Ghetto. Locate an orange wall with several right-leaning crack-like features; the left "crack" is left of a black streak (Hold It Like a Hamburger), and the right crack is left of a tan streak (Pox).

You can walk to the top of this wall (and the top of Never Again, Again) by continuing rightwards along the terrace, then cutting back left above the wall. Just left of the top of Pox is an amazing flat, open ledge.

24. Hold It Like a Hamburger   5.11d   G (5.1 R)   160'   

A masterpiece of steep climbing on positive crimps and small footholds.

Start: Walk 25' left from Pox on a narrow, grass-covered ledge above a steep, mossy slab and begin at a shallow, short, left-facing corner with a ledge 7' up.

P1 5.11d G: Climb up to a ledge, then make several high-steps up a cleaned face. At its top, run out a slab to the left side of a large, hanging, black block. Move up and right across the top of the hanging block, then follow desperate crimps straight up the orange face to where the angle eases. Run out up and right to a fixed anchor on a large pine (shared with Pox). 160'

25. Pox   5.11c   G (5.1 R)   140'   

Perhaps the easiest-looking route of its grade anywhere, this route has the hardest dimple climbing yet at Potter combined with a hard "crack", which is actually a connected series of flared water pockets on an overhanging wall. Yikes!

Start: Below a tan streak at a shallow, black, right-facing open book that begins 5' up.

P1 5.11c G (5.1 R): Go up the right-facing open book, then step left onto a narrow ledge. Shuffle left and climb a narrow ribbon of dimples (5.10d) to reach the base of a right-leaning "crack". Desperate moves up the steep water pockets lead to a hand jam, and the end of the difficulties. Run out the clean, textured slab to a fixed anchor on a large pine. 140'

Gear: Draws, 1 ea #1 Camalot, #2 Camalot.

26. Vaccination   5.9   G   140'   

The "cure" to the hard climbing on this wall; consists of a couple awkward mantels and a puzzling friction crux. It can be used to access the top of Pox and Hold It Like a Hamburger.

Start: 15' right of Pox.

P1 5.9 G: Follow the obvious weakness up the face heading towards a scoop-like feature. Break right (crux), then up easier slab to a tree at the top. 140'

Gear: Draws plus an optional #1 or #2 Camalot.

Descent: Two rope rappel from tree.


Cliff 12: Pandorum

Aspect: South

Description: Most of this cliff is scruffy, dirty, and low-angle. However, on the left side is a sheer buttress of overhanging rock laced with cracks. The upper section is dirty, and the bottom is undercut with overhangs.

There is a campsite with a fire ring 80' back from the top of the cliff.

Directions: From the Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead, follow the red-blazed trail for 30 minutes to the summit of Silver Lake Mountain 18T 592134 4930357. At times, this trail climbs steeply uphill. From the summit, continue east along the ridge, with easier going if you stay just south of the height of the ridge. There is an intermittent herd path for most of the way. The first slabby open summit area is the top of Pandorum 18T 592471 4930118.

The slabby open summit with the viewpoint and camp site faces southwest; the cliff with potential for climbing is [climber's] left and faces south.


Cliff 13: Hydrogen Wall

Hydrogen Wall (702K, last updated: 22 Oct, 2010)

Aspect: South

Description: Situated high on the Silver Lake Mountain ridgeline, this cliff has seen some exploration for climbing. The cliff is about 220' tall. 80' below the top is Supper Ledge, a beautiful ledge that spans the width of the cliff. You can reach Supper Ledge by rappelling in on the right side, or by climbing Sam I Am.

Directions: This cliff can be approached from below or from the top.

To approach from the top, from the top of Pandorum, continue along the ridge, staying south of the ridge in the more open slabby areas. A brief section of difficult bushwhacking leads to easier going and the open slabby summit of the Hydrogen Wall 18T 592717 4930011.

To approach from the bottom, park at the Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead, or, better yet, on the shoulder of the road 0.2 miles east of the trailhead. Follow the logging road for 15 minutes to a large clearing choked with raspberries and other unpleasantries. This clearing is directly below the Hydrogen Wall. Follow your nose (best assisted with a compass), aiming for the open talus area on the far right side of the cliff. From the open talus, you can scramble straight up to the ridge, then follow open ledges back left to the top of the cliff 18T 592717 4930011.

1. The Cement Mixer   5.11   G   80'   

Start: In the middle of Supper Ledge below a prominent (and only) crack that breaches the upper headwall.

P1 5.11 G: Work up the crack (crux) to a ledge 25' up. Move over a steep bulge using a flake that forms double cracks. Pull through the double cracks to a slab, then up a pretty white slab to a good ledge with a tree. 80'

2. Sam I Am   5.9   G   140'   

Bring small gear. The route ends at Supper Ledge, and provides access to The Cement Mixer on the upper headwall.

Start: To find the route, start at the base of the cliff near the right end (near the large open talus field) follow the base of the cliff down and left until you come to "The Gate"—a large, 10'-high flake positioned away from the cliff far enough to walk through. Walk through The Gate and onto a tree-covered ledge. Follow the ledge down and left until you come to a large square, head-high boulder blocking the ledge. The route begins on top of this boulder.

P1 5.9 G: Follow a weakness straight up passing a small cedar to a ledge 30' up. Directly above, follow a crack line that begins in a small right-facing corner, then continue straight up to the double red pines on the Super Ledge. 140'


Cliff 14: Mud Pond Cliff

Mud Pond Cliff, Left End (806K, last updated: 02 May, 2010)

Mud Pond Cliff, Right End (913K, last updated: 18 Aug, 2011)

Directions: Park at the Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead, or, better yet, 0.2 miles east of this parking on the shoulder of the road near the logging road. Follow the logging road for 8 minutes and turn right at the first, well-used logging road 18T 592201 4929610. Follow this for 2 minutes and turn right again (downhill), on another well-used logging road. Follow the logging road 5 minutes to a hunter's cabin. About 400' past the cabin, turn left into a open, logged area, and follow an open skid path 10 minutes up to the cliff 18T 592828 4929320.

1. Unnamed10   5.9   G   90'

Start: On the left end of the cliff, and 250' left of Born To Run, is an 80'-tall slab, the only large slab on the cliff, capped by an overhanging, roofy headwall. About 50' left of the right end of this section is a left-leaning crack that starts as a seam, then becomes a left-facing corner 60' up. Begin at a black slab 12' right of the crack and 5' left of a 10'-tall, left-facing corner.

P1 5.9 G: Friction up the black slab to a ledge, then follow a 1'-thich right-facing flake to a small overlap at its top. Traverse 10' left, then follow the left-leaning crack to the left-facing corner, then up this to a tree below the overhanging headwall. Rappel. 90'

2. Born To Run   5.11+   PG   80'

The crux crack climbing is difficult to protect with ledge fall potential if you don't work the pro.

Start: In the center of the cliff is an open, cleared, grassy area with a large house-sized talus blocks set back in the woods. The cliff here forms an amphitheater—sheer and overhanging, often dripping, with a distinctive pinkish shield of rock on the left side, and a prominent, left-leaning, full-height, 1'-wide chimney–dike on the right. Begin below the pinkish shield at an overhanging, crumbly, left-facing flake at head height.

P1 5.10 G: Boulder up the crumbly pink flake and make a tricky mantel onto a ledge (5.9+, R). Step right and climb to a second ledge. Traverse 12' right to a crack which is followed to an overhang at its top. Follow the crack through the left side of the overhang, then up an open book to a sloped ledge on the right and fixed anchor. 80'

3. Waiting For The Weather   5.9+   G   90'   

The initial slab seeps, hence the name. Would be better if cleaned up.

Start: 200' right of Born To Run at a slab, above which is a crack that begins 6' up.

P1 5.9+ G: Climb the slab for 6' to gain the crack. Go up the crack, which pinches off at head level (crux), and follow it 30' to a ledge. Continue up the crack as it trends left past ledges with a few hard moves. Finish on a large, grassy ledge with a cedar tree and a fixed anchor. 90'

4. Rico's Roughnecks   5.10c   G   200'   

Start: On the right side of the cliff is a wide section of overhanging rock with a dark band of dike rock running horizontally along the base. Begin 300' left at an obvious handcrack in a right-facing wall. The crack doglegs right 60' up. This is 300' right of the left-leaning chimney–dike that marks the right side of the amphitheater with Born To Run.

P1 5.10c G: Up the handcrack to an overhang. Traverse right 8' under the overhang (crux, small cams), then continue up a handcrack in a right-facing corner to a good belay ledge with a fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.7 G: Traverse right into open book and follow this straight up to a cedar in a chimney just below the top. 100'

Gear: To 3.5", including 2 ea #0.75, #1, #2.

Descent: Two raps with a 60m rope.

5. Big Brother   5.9+   G   60'   

Start: Same as Little Sister.

P1 5.9+ G: Climb up 8', then move up and left along a ramp to a thin crack in the face. Follow the thin crack to a right-facing corner. At its top, continue up a thin crack in the face to a ledge with a fixed anchor shared with Little Sister. 60'

Gear: Draws plus small wires and cams to 1.5".

6. Little Sister   5.11c   G   60'   

Great rock, great climbing, and continuous.

Start: 30' right of Rico's Roughnecks at a face with a pair of right-facing corners. Begin below the left-hand corner.

P1 5.11c G: Climb up into the left of two parallel corners and follow it to its top. Continue up the face (crux) to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 60'

Gear: Draws plus gear to 2".

7. Evil Twin   5.10c   G   60'   

Much harder than it looks.

Start: Locate an open book with a good crack that leads past a couple cedar trees. Begin 10' right of the open book.

P1 5.10c G: Climb up to a sloped ledge, then step left into the open book. Up the crack in the open book past two cedar trees to a ledge with a fixed anchor on a tree. 60'

8. Unnamed11   5.9   PG   100'

An incomplete project with pitons of unknown origin. Recent ascents traverse right at the triangular ceiling, then climb a crappy corner to the top; not recommended. A fixed anchor has been installed at the top of the corner, but remains an open project.

Start: 30' right of Evil Twin in a large open book corner with splashes of orange lichen on the walls. The corner leads to a triangular ceiling with a hanging cedar just above. P1 5.9 PG: Up the corner with hidden pitons to the square roof. Traverse 25' right on a good ledge. 100'

9. The Sodomizer Project

Another amazing crack on the most overhanging section of the wall on the right end of the cliff. The crack begins above a roof system 30' up. Has some fixed gear and a fixed anchor. An open project; any takers?

10. The Sword of Deception   5.13a   R   90'   

Climbs an awesome, overhanging crack. After an initial loose rock band, the route has good to excellent rock. The initial moves require some boulder pads, or preplaced gear 15' up. Higher up, a long runout over good gear requires the belayer to take in rope to keep the leader off the ground.

Start: 15' left of Gizmo below an awesome overhanging crack.

P1 5.13a R: After initial moves up to the first gear, punch up though the first crux (powerful moves, minimal features, bad feet) to gain a good left-hand jug. Place a tiny nut or cam in a good constriction (pumpy), then work past some dicey moves to a solid finger lock. Next piece in a flare, then make techy foot smears up to a horizontal with a good rest. Make a big dynamic move, then a substantial runout (ground fall potential). The finish is steep, pumpy, but has good gear and cool moves. Fixed anchor. 90'

11. Gizmo   5.10   G   90'   

An impressive line that awaits a modern ascent.

Start: On the right side of the cliff is a wide section of overhanging rock with a dark band of dike rock running horizontally along the base. Begin on the right side at an obvious crack that leads to a hanging cedar. This is downhill and left of an open area of large talus boulders.

P1 5.10 G: Up the crack and past a bulge to a roof (bolt). Continue in the crack through the roof to a fixed anchor. 90'

12. The Mideast Solution   5.11d   G   50'   

Once considered 5.10c, the hold "shaped like Africa" came off, making the route considerably more difficult.

Start: 30' uphill and right of Gizmo in an area of open talus, at a pointed boulder that leans up to within 6" of the cliff face, below an overhanging, right-facing open book corner.

P1 5.11d G: From the top of the pointed boulder, move up and left into the corner. Layback strenuously up the open book to a good ledge. Finish with fun mantle moves to a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: Draws plus a few pieces to 0.5".

13. Crispy Critters   5.12a   G   50'   

Start: 20' right of The Mideast Solution. The wall is undercut here with good holds in black rock, and there's a large boulder–slab at the base.

P1 5.12a G: Stick-clip the first bolt of Plan C. Move up Plan C for 8', then move left to an arête with a skinny fragile flake on its nose (you can see behind this flake to Silver Lake). Continue up the nose of the arête to a fixed anchor. 50'

14. Plan C   5.11c   G   50'   

Start: Same as Crispy Critters.

P1 5.11c G: Stick-clip the first bolt, then climb up a right-leaning, shallow open book corner to a fixed anchor below a ledge. 50'

15. Rear Entry   5.6   G   70'

Use primarily to access the fixed anchors of the routes to the left.

Start: At the right end of the cliff, 40' right of Plan C and on the right side of an open talus area, at a 6'-high, right-facing corner that begins 4' up. There is a clump of maple trees at the base.

P1 5.6 G: Go up the corner, then up blocky terrain to the right end of a left-rising ledge. Scramble left along the ledge and pick a fixed anchor. 70'


Cliff 16: The Burrow

This cliff is mostly broken, but with a couple short, steep walls laced with cracks. The cracks have great finger locks, but they're also short and a bit dirty; great potential for short, powerful routes. The cliff base is moderately open and comfortable.

Directions: From the Shangri La area of Potter Mountain, follow the cliff line left past Bears, Beets, Battlestar Galactica. Continue left past low roofs to a broken, 4th-class, left-facing corner. Scramble up this and continue following the base of the slab as it bends to the west and diminishes. Continue west to reach the cliff about 20 minutes from Shangri La.

1. Ledge You To Believe   5.9-   G   80'

An excellent initial handcrack, but the route broken by several large ledges.

Start: On the right side of the cliff is a broad, open gully that leads to the top of the cliff (the only easy access to the top of the cliff). 75' left of the gully is a 30'-high, acute, right-facing, tapering corner with a mossy crack. Begin 20' left of this corner at a larger right-facing corner with a good, clean, black handcrack in the left wall, 4' left of the corner. Further left is a deep, narrow, boulder-capped chimney with a good fingercrack in the left wall.

P1 5.9- G: Go up the handcrack in the left wall to a final difficult mantel (crux) onto a terrace with a tree belay. 30'

P2 5.8 G: Climb a crack in a corner with a pod stance at mid-height to another broad ledge. Continue up a crack in a right-facing corner to a final crux mantel. Tree belay. 50'

Gear: To 3".


Cliff 17: Silver Lake Mountain Summit Areas

There are some smaller cliffs and slabs nestled in the blowdown that lie directly below the ridge near the summit of Silver Lake Mountain. The area could use more exploration.

1. The Mercury Program   5.9+   PG   50'

Start: From the open rocky viewpoint at the top of Silver Lake Mountain, walk about 100' further along the ridge on a good herd path. At the first area with a view, follow a path down around some small ledges which get larger if you follow the wall. This leads to a slab with a ledge and a small overhang with a couple boulders wedged in between. Begin below and 10' left of these small boulders. To the left is a chimney and a 30'-high column of stacked boulders.

P1 5.9+ PG: Follow small holds to a small shelf, then friction with no protection to the top of a slab. Go right 5' to the wedged boulders and follow a dirty crack straight up. 50'


Appendix 1: Document Links

Aerial overview (564K, last updated: 22 May, 2012)
Silver Lake and Potter Mountain Map (216K, last updated: 29 Sep, 2011)
C Chimney Cliff Overview (600K, last updated: 15 Mar, 2010)
C Chimney Cliff, Left End (689K, last updated: 05 Sep, 2011)
C Chimney Cliff, Main Face (713K, last updated: 19 Jun, 2012)
Purple Rain Wall (8775K, last updated: 21 May, 2012)
Summit Cliff, Overview (732K, last updated: 15 Mar, 2010)
Summit Cliff, Left End (736K, last updated: 26 Mar, 2010)
Summit Cliff, Prow Area (884K, last updated: 08 Nov, 2010)
Summit Cliff, Blade Area (974K, last updated: 08 Nov, 2010)
Center of Progress Cliff, Overview (836K, last updated: 15 Mar, 2010)
Center of Progress Cliff, Tooth and Nail Area (850K, last updated: 07 Sep, 2010)
Center of Progress Cliff, Silver Flake Area (901K, last updated: 07 Sep, 2010)
Center of Progress Cliff, Connecticut Yankee Area (937K, last updated: 07 Sep, 2010)
Center of Progress Cliff, Right End (952K, last updated: 07 Sep, 2010)
Tsunami Slab (885K, last updated: 29 Sep, 2011)
Midway Cliff (857K, last updated: 23 Mar, 2010)
Outback Slab (1004K, last updated: 15 Sep, 2011)
Wayback Wall (591K, last updated: 16 Mar, 2010)
Potter Mountain Cliff, Overview (911K, last updated: 10 Oct, 2011)
Potter Mountain Cliff, Left End (3588K, last updated: 11 Oct, 2010)
Potter Mountain Cliff, Shangri La (864K, last updated: 10 Oct, 2011)
Potter Mountain Cliff, Main Face (961K, last updated: 10 Oct, 2011)
Potter Mountain Cliff, The Ghetto (648K, last updated: 10 Oct, 2011)
Hydrogen Wall (702K, last updated: 22 Oct, 2010)
Mud Pond Cliff, Left End (806K, last updated: 02 May, 2010)
Mud Pond Cliff, Right End (913K, last updated: 18 Aug, 2011)

Appendix 2: Route List

1.1: Unnamed13, 5.7 G
1.2: The Norton Anthology: Chapter One, 5.10b G
1.3: Cliff Notes, 5.10d PG
1.4: Shaggy's Secret Stash, 5.10c PG
1.5: The Purist, 5.10b G
1.6: Mystery Machine, 5.6 G
1.7: Zoinks!!, 5.10d G
1.8: Double Fisting Blueberries, 5.9 G
1.9: If You Don't Like It, Leave, 5.11b PG
1.10: Tears of Gaia, 5.10b G
1.11: Mine Shaft (aka C Crack, aka Jervis's Joke), 5.4 PG
1.12: Haroom Baroom, 5.11d G
1.13: Bearded Munchkin, 5.10b G
1.14: Seeking Enlightenment, 5.11a G
1.15: Flying Buddha, 5.12b G
1.16: Hippie Sticks and Black Flies, 5.11a G (5.5 R)
1.17: Jenga, 5.11b PG
1.18: Velma's Snatch, 5.3 X
1.19: I See You, 5.10b G
2.1: Hammerhead, 5.10b G
2.2: Always, 5.9 G
2.3: Blockus, 5.10a G
2.4: Happy Thoughts and Chalk Dust, 5.11a PG
3.1: Purple Rain, 5.7 G
3.2: Slabby McCracken, 5.9 G
3.3: Jemima Dreams, 5.10a
3.4: Brainy McCracken, 5.8 G
3.5: Suppertime, 5.10a G
5.1: Silver Lake Chimney, Class II
5.2: Hot Tamale, 5.9 G
5.3: Caspian Corner, 5.9+ G
5.4: Burnt Toast, 5.7 G
5.5: Beginner's Route, 5.2 PG
5.6: Handlebarbarism, 5.10b G
5.7: Green Mountain Boys, 5.10a G
5.8: Turning 21 Again, 5.10c G
5.9: Great Northern Diver, 5.10d G
5.10: Hairy Upper Lip Drip, 5.10b G
5.11: Tales of Weakness, 5.9 G
5.12: Finger Lickin' Good, 5.10d G
5.13: Snapperhead, 5.9 G
5.14: Cedar Run, 5.6 PG
5.15: Blueberry Buttress, 5.8 G
5.16: Unnamed13, 5.7 PG
5.17: Crackus Interuptus, 5.10a G
5.18: It Goes to Eleven, 5.11a G
5.19: Tusk, 5.8 PG
5.20: Queen of the Jungle, 5.10b G
5.21: North Dike, 5.2 G
6.1: Another Crack in the Wall, 5.9 G
6.2: Mo'in The Mud, 5.7+ G
6.3: Franklin's Tower, 5.8+ G
6.4: The Dirty Mattress, 5.8 G
6.5: Angry Hemorrhoid Chimney, 5.4 G
6.6: African Barking Spiders, 5.11a PG
6.7: Tooth & Nail, 5.10b G
6.8: Oral Surgery, 5.11b PG
6.9: Wish You Were Here (project)
6.10: Silver Flake, 5.8 G
6.11: Heroes Are Hard To Find, 5.8 G
6.12: Cedar Root, 5.9- G
6.13: Abracadabra, A2
6.14: Sinner Repent, 5.10 G
6.15: Connecticut Yankee (aka Interloper), 5.10d G
6.16: Whale Crack, A2
6.17: Princess Leia, A1+
6.18: Atomic Vomit, A2
6.19: Early Onset Dementia, 5.8 G
6.20: Tiguidou Pack-Sack, 5.9+ G
6.21: Rolls Royce, 5.7+ G
6.22: In Hiding, 5.10 PG
6.23: The Chipmunk Waltz, 5.11a A0
6.24: Trub, 5.0+ X
6.25: Rock Hangers, 5.10b G
6.26: Snarling Spiders, 5.7 PG
6.27: Oops! I'm Pregnant, 5.10c
7.1: Dirty Gully, 5.0 G
7.2: Two Socks, 5.7 G
7.3: Dead End, 5.5 A1
7.4: Oppositional Defiance Disorder, 5.14a G
8.1: Upsidaisium, 5.8 A2
8.2: Curved Like a Wave, 5.10a G
8.3: Schadenfreude, 5.10b
8.4: Fearless Leader, 5.9- PG
8.5: Static Cling, 5.9+
8.6: Hangover Corner, 5.4 G
8.7: Arête's Syndrome (aka Before The Fall), 5.4 G
8.8: After the Bash, 5.7 G (5.4 R)
8.9: Face Dances, 5.8 R
8.10: Attachment, 5.9-
8.11: Easy Listening, 5.7+ G
8.12: Easement, 5.3 G
9.1: Lurch, 5.11b G
9.2: Bimathalon (aka Silver Slab), 5.11a G (5.6 R)
9.3: Morticia, 5.9 G (5.6 R)
9.4: Gomez, 5.6 PG (5.4 R)
9.5: Uncle Fester, 5.7 PG
9.6: Pugsley, 5.3 R
10.1: Mr. Peabody, 5.7
10.2: Spelunker, 5.4+
11.1: Where's Ian, 5.8 X
11.2: Bears, Beets, Battlestar Galactica (aka Three B's), 5.10d G (5.4 R)
11.3: Pothead, 5.12a G
11.4: Garden of Leadin', 5.10d G
11.5: Piece Out, 5.9+ G
11.6: Jug-Or-Not, 5.11c G
11.7: Poker Face, 5.9+ G
11.8: Brazilian, 5.10a G
11.9: Once in a Lifetime, 5.10d G
11.10: Stop Making Sense, 5.8 G
11.11: Groovitational Pull, 5.10a G
11.12: Where the Wild Things Are, 5.10b G
11.13: Positive Latitude, 5.10b G
11.14: Every Inch Counts, 5.10a G
11.15: Scary Potter Traverse, 5.10c G
11.16: Honeybadger, 5.10a G
11.17: Morningside Heights, 5.10a G (5.4 X)
11.18: Never Again, Again, 5.7 PG
11.19: Bonanza Lunchbox, 5.10b PG
11.20: Leroy Brown, 5.11+ G
11.21: Zebra, 5.9 G
11.22: My Name is Hud, 5.8+ G
11.23: Bodega, 5.9+ G
11.24: Hold It Like a Hamburger, 5.11d G (5.1 R)
11.25: Pox, 5.11c G (5.1 R)
11.26: Vaccination, 5.9 G
13.1: The Cement Mixer, 5.11 G
13.2: Sam I Am, 5.9 G
14.1: Unnamed10, 5.9 G
14.2: Born To Run, 5.11+ PG
14.3: Waiting For The Weather, 5.9+ G
14.4: Rico's Roughnecks, 5.10c G
14.5: Big Brother, 5.9+ G
14.6: Little Sister, 5.11c G
14.7: Evil Twin, 5.10c G
14.8: Unnamed11, 5.9 PG
14.9: The Sodomizer (project)
14.10: The Sword of Deception, 5.13a R
14.11: Gizmo, 5.10 G
14.12: The Mideast Solution, 5.11d G
14.13: Crispy Critters, 5.12a G
14.14: Plan C, 5.11c G
14.15: Rear Entry, 5.6 G
16.1: Ledge You To Believe, 5.9- G
17.1: The Mercury Program, 5.9+ PG